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1/8 Yodel Honda CBX 1000Z


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Hi all, well it's been a while since I built a bike kit, so I thought I would drag this beauty out of the stash. 6 Cylinder, 24 valves double overhead cam, 6 carburettors, need I say anymore! I had been after a 1/8 kit of this bike for a couple of years, then about 6 months ago I managed to snag this very little started kit from a nice gentleman who had it for sale on eBay. All the parts were there, so I was happy to win the bid.

 

First off, I have owned and worked on a few of these bikes, so looking over the kit it looked pretty accurate for its age. Plan is to get the hard part out of the way first, the paintwork. I am going for the Candy Glory red option. Apart from the box art, I have included some pictures of a later, A model that I painted for a client a few years back. As this is a US model, I might try to convert it to European lower Handlebars as they look nicer to my eyes. So, let's get started!

 

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I started looking at the front mudguard, maybe it's a limitation of the mould process in its day but the mudguard had a thick seam running around the outer edge, it was not like that on the full-size bike, so I had to sand that down and reprofile the front and rear of the guard to get a more accurate shape. The fuel tank is in 3 parts, but went together pretty well with minimum sanding and putty work.

 

I gave all of the body work a few coats of black primer, followed up the next day with a light metallic silvery red basecoat and the 4 coats of Citroen Ruby red basecoat, which looked a close match to the original factory candy paint. A few coats of 2k clear were then sprayed on to seal in the colour.

 

Decal stripes will go on next, but I have just noticed that stripes 1/2/4 and 5 on the decal sheet are for the silver coloured bike! So, it looks like some masking and airbrushing of the correct colours will be required. Bye for now guys.

 

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49 minutes ago, ocatlub said:

Hi Lee, What paint did you use for the red please

The real paint set was silver basecoat with candy glory red over the top.

The model kit paint was Citroen ruby red basecoat.

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Hi Lee,
I had this kit more years ago that I care to remember. 

Eventually succumbed to the great model bike home in the sky...

I wish I could find another one. Been looking, but never saw one.

I'll have to keep my eyes peeled...

 

Really good start, by the way. Love it!

 

Cheers,

Alan.

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44 minutes ago, Alan R said:

Hi Lee,
I had this kit more years ago that I care to remember. 

Eventually succumbed to the great model bike home in the sky...

I wish I could find another one. Been looking, but never saw one.

I'll have to keep my eyes peeled...

 

Really good start, by the way. Love it!

 

Cheers,

Alan.

Cheers Alan, they are very rare to find ,the guy I bought the kit off had the real bike, just never got round to building the kit.

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Had a 1/15th scale version that was part started that I gave away to a mate. Like this the mudguard had a seam around the edge. Wonder if it was based on this kit? It was also a US version with hi bars. Beautiful paint work.

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Hi all, here is a quick work in progress report on the "Big 6". Paint on the bodywork is done; engine block has been painted with a black basecoat, then Ford stratos silver, mixed with 2k clearcoat. Then given a light oil wash to bring the details out.

 

Clutch case, crankshaft end caps and carburettor tops have been painted with Molotow liquid chrome mixed with 2k clear, then airbrushed over the parts to give a polished and lacquered aluminium effect. I also used this mix to paint the fuel cap locking arm. Next is to build the front forks and get a rolling chassis built.

 

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I've also added two pictures from the same real full size bike that I recently restored. Bye for now and happy modelling.

 

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22 hours ago, Lee Chambers said:

Clutch case, crankshaft end caps and carburettor tops have been painted with Molotow liquid chrome mixed with 2k clear, then airbrushed over the parts to give a polished and lacquered aluminium effect. I also used this mix to paint the fuel cap locking arm. Next is to build the front forks and get a rolling chassis built
 

Professional work beautifully done Lee. I find this bit very interesting. I was under impression that Molotow is Iso based. Am surprised 2K clear did not attack it and actually blended with it. I take it the 2k has now made the Molotow impervious to handling. And it has diminished the chrome effect also?

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1 hour ago, Codger said:

Professional work beautifully done Lee. I find this bit very interesting. I was under impression that Molotow is Iso based. Am surprised 2K clear did not attack it and actually blended with it. I take it the 2k has now made the Molotow impervious to handling. And it has diminished the chrome effect also?

Yes, it does dull the chrome effect, but I was after a polished aluminium finish and it works well with the 2k clear.

It can be even brush painted over parts and looks good.

Once hardened it does not rub off, so a win win !

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  • 8 months later...
16 hours ago, Lyckman said:

Hi Lee, Im building the same model at this moment. Have you a trick with the decals because the kit is so old, they seem to disintegrate when trying to apply them...

Any tips?

Regards

Sorry to hear that the decals are giving you problems. If the they are sliding off the backing sheet but breaking up, I would suggest spraying them over with a clear coat such as Hataka lacquer, or Tamiya clear.

Just a few light misty coats, let it dry overnight, that might hold the decal together when you try to use them.

 

My Z1R Kawasaki kit decals gave me issues with not wanting to release from the backing sheet.

I soaked them in warm water for up to 30 minutes, but if after that time they are not floating off the backing sheet then there is nothing much you can do apart from try scraping a sharp knife blade at the edge of the decal to try and break the decal away from the backing sheet.

You could try scanning the sheet and printing off a copy onto decal paper, best of luck and I hope that helps.

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