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Special Hobby 1/48 Spitfire Vc Corrections -Post/ Thread Pointer


Olmec Head

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I have tried the search option, but without success.  I remember that someone has already done a post sometime ago on the corrections to the Special Hobby 1/48 Spitfire Vc.  I know it involves cutting the the nose and splicing in an extension and moving the wingroot forward.  What I cannot find is the measurements.  If anyone can point be to the relevant post, I would be most grateful. 

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54 minutes ago, Olmec Head said:

I have tried the search option, but without success.  I remember that someone has already done a post sometime ago on the corrections to the Special Hobby 1/48 Spitfire Vc.  I know it involves cutting the the nose and splicing in an extension and moving the wingroot forward.  What I cannot find is the measurements.  If anyone can point be to the relevant post, I would be most grateful. 

IIRC correctly it's adding 1 mm in the fuel tank and 2 mm at the tail, which needs to be angled back a little bit,  making a total of 3mm.   The squares below are 10mm, top is the Airfix Vb, and below, with the splice, Special Hobby Seafire III, but t has the same shortness as their Vc

49385874312_1b927b501f_b.jpg

 

 

 

see the disussion here

and here

which I think has the measurements and the size of Evergreen strip used.    It's really worth getting strip, as this is already squared up and makes doing this much easier.  Ask for clarifications if needed.

 

 

 

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18 hours ago, Troy Smith said:

IIRC correctly it's adding 1 mm in the fuel tank and 2 mm at the tail, which needs to be angled back a little bit,  making a total of 3mm.   The squares below are 10mm, top is the Airfix Vb, and below, with the splice, Special Hobby Seafire III, but t has the same shortness as their Vc

49385874312_1b927b501f_b.jpg

 

 

 

see the disussion here

and here

which I think has the measurements and the size of Evergreen strip used.    It's really worth getting strip, as this is already squared up and makes doing this much easier.  Ask for clarifications if needed.

 

 

 

Thank you Troy that was what I was looking for,  I need to think about how to get the strip right for the nose insert, I think it is probably more difficult than it first appears.

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40 minutes ago, Olmec Head said:

Thank you Troy that was what I was looking for,  I need to think about how to get the strip right for the nose insert, I think it is probably more difficult than it first appears.

Not really, you curve it by bending it, you overbend a bit, and the it keeps the curve.  You can run in through your fingers to do this.   IIRC I did the cuts, added the extension bars inside, then added a longer than needed bit strip, attach the strip to the main fuselage, first attach the flat side part, then do the curves, as you can then match the curve, using super glue,  matched to  the inside of the cut, the extension bars do this, and then add the nose, worth doing on a flat surface, and this keeps everything aligned. Any excess strip is easy too sand back and trim off the ends.  

You need to note there is likely to be a gap at the root now, and you need to carefully reshape the fuselage wing fillet where it meets the wing, and the wing is now moved forwards.  

The crucial bit is keeping the initial cut at right angles, as this helps minimise gaps and keeps the alignment straight later.  I used the same method for adding a stretch to the Tamiya Spit Mk.I and to do a Hurricane Mk.II from a Mk.I 

 

Hope the explanation makes sense?   I'm typing on a tablet which is a pain, so I may well edit the above for clarity later.

I hope this makes sense, if in doubt, try it on a scrapped or spare fuselage.  

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5 hours ago, Troy Smith said:

Not really, you curve it by bending it, you overbend a bit, and the it keeps the curve.  You can run in through your fingers to do this.   IIRC I did the cuts, added the extension bars inside, then added a longer than needed bit strip, attach the strip to the main fuselage, first attach the flat side part, then do the curves, as you can then match the curve, using super glue,  matched to  the inside of the cut, the extension bars do this, and then add the nose, worth doing on a flat surface, and this keeps everything aligned. Any excess strip is easy too sand back and trim off the ends.  

You need to note there is likely to be a gap at the root now, and you need to carefully reshape the fuselage wing fillet where it meets the wing, and the wing is now moved forwards.  

The crucial bit is keeping the initial cut at right angles, as this helps minimise gaps and keeps the alignment straight later.  I used the same method for adding a stretch to the Tamiya Spit Mk.I and to do a Hurricane Mk.II from a Mk.I 

 

Hope the explanation makes sense?   I'm typing on a tablet which is a pain, so I may well edit the above for clarity later.

I hope this makes sense, if in doubt, try it on a scrapped or spare fuselage.  

 Troy did you use 1mmx1mm styrene strip please for nose?

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31 minutes ago, Olmec Head said:

 Troy did you use 1mmx1mm styrene strip please for nose?

I'd have to check.   I think I used some odd railway size,  I bought a load of packs of Evergreen strip at a £1 go when Modelzone was closing down.

 

I think it was the 1.09mmx 1.68m strip 

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Evergreen-Styrene-8406-10-x-0-043-x-0-066-1-09mm-x-1-68mm-14-355mm-Strip-1st-/360822534078

I used this as the thick measurement very closely matched the thickness of the fuselage moulding. 

 

And I used 1.68x1.68 mm as the extensions bars, but 60thou card will work well  instead  

 

But, said kit is elsewhere.   I'm sure 1mmx1.5mm would do,  

https://www.eileensemporium.com/materials-for-modellers/product/evergreen-143-strip-0-040-x-0-060-1-0mm-x-1-5mm-x-14-10-pack/category_pathway-4164

 

If you can wait a couple of days I can check.    If you don't want a pack of strip I can send you a bit, you don't need much, but I find the pre cut strip incredibly useful. 

 

also, this has some more of the extension method, to a Tamiya Mk.I,  It's not my idea, I was recently reading a 1976 Scale Model magazine where this was used, by Harry Woodman.  (who really pioneered a lot of techniques, another similar era Scale models had him making his own photoetch) 

 HTH

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On 04/05/2021 at 20:26, Troy Smith said:

I'd have to check.   I think I used some odd railway size,  I bought a load of packs of Evergreen strip at a £1 go when Modelzone was closing down.

 

I think it was the 1.09mmx 1.68m strip 

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Evergreen-Styrene-8406-10-x-0-043-x-0-066-1-09mm-x-1-68mm-14-355mm-Strip-1st-/360822534078

I used this as the thick measurement very closely matched the thickness of the fuselage moulding. 

 

And I used 1.68x1.68 mm as the extensions bars, but 60thou card will work well  instead  

 

But, said kit is elsewhere.   I'm sure 1mmx1.5mm would do,  

https://www.eileensemporium.com/materials-for-modellers/product/evergreen-143-strip-0-040-x-0-060-1-0mm-x-1-5mm-x-14-10-pack/category_pathway-4164

 

If you can wait a couple of days I can check.    If you don't want a pack of strip I can send you a bit, you don't need much, but I find the pre cut strip incredibly useful. 

 

also, this has some more of the extension method, to a Tamiya Mk.I,  It's not my idea, I was recently reading a 1976 Scale Model magazine where this was used, by Harry Woodman.  (who really pioneered a lot of techniques, another similar era Scale models had him making his own photoetch) 

 HTH

Again thank you very much Troy for the information, I will be bookmarking or printing off the posts for when I pluck up the courage to start to start hacking at the kit.  I have found my supply of styrene plasticard and strips, so I should be in position to take the plunge.  

 

I have the Malta markings kit, the veracity of which is of course another issue entirely!

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7 hours ago, Jure Miljevic said:

Hello, Troy

I am away from my sources (and kits) at the moment, but I think SH kit's fuel tank armoured cover is of correct length. Will check it when I come home in the evening. Cheers

Jure

Hi Jure, quite probably, IIRCthe shortness is just behind the tank, but putting an extension there is not really practical, (EDIT as that is where cockpit internals are)   so you just rescibe the rear tank line. 

according to this, whic was posted by the late Edgar Brooks.   Note the dimensions between A-G are the same on all Spitfire, (except possibly the big tail 22/24, but I need to check)

Spitfire-dwg-2.jpg

 

the tank is 36.25 inch, 1 inch = 25.4mm, so x by 25.4,

=920.75 mm / 48 = 19.2 mm

 

I'll see if i can check this, if i can find the box.....Edit, found box.   The rear of fuel tank to cockpit door is where the shortness is, so you need to rescribe the rear tank line. 

 

@Olmec Head, bear in mind the you can make up most of the length with the tail splice, which is easy, the front splice is harder for less gain.     The above image may help,  it was years ago i chopped up that Seafire III, it was more in the nature of a demonstration of a fix, as I'd seen a right load of tosh written on the subject at points.  For some reason the SH kit got a really bad reputation, while others with bigger problems seemed to not get the same treatment.

 

 

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Hello Troy

A matter of convenience, I understand. Otherwise, petrol tank cowling of Spitfire IX MJ116, dug out in 2019, measures 910 mm so the length in 1/48 should be 18.96 mm. On SH kit, this part measures about 19.1 mm. I can live with that. Cheers

Jure

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