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"It's Life Jim, but not as we know it" It's the 453rd Museum's 1/32 P-51D Mustang by Revell.


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On 01/06/2021 at 15:40, AdrianMF said:

Cockpit looks gorgeous!

 

Regards,

Adrian

Thanks Adrian. Far too kind. 😀 I still need to add a bit of writing here and there but almost done. 😇

On 01/06/2021 at 16:13, alt-92 said:

Maybe he means the wheel bays.

Like this:

CvRpjuaRieVnq0Id5xg6ORCZIGKI6x2PLgQ=&ris

(via this thread)

 

Ahhh I see. That’s a nice looking wheel well.  I was reading about this on another Mustang build on here yesterday. Apparently, and don’t take this as gospel but it’s either YZC or BM. The dual paint thing was a bit of myth. I was going for YZC s as it’s new to me and I was looking forward to doing my thunderbolts in that Colour but got called out and had to make them grey.

On 01/06/2021 at 21:53, VT Red Sox Fan said:

Johnny, I did not see your work on the bays on the thread—given the caliber of your work I know you will hit the main gear bays out of the park—between you and G, I am curious how you both will conquer the YZC/NMF finish of this area.  FWIW, you may recollect I used foil for my 1/72d build—but I am not in your league, so I look forward to learning—best, Erwin

Wow you are far far too kind. I think you’ll find your modelling and painting skills as good as any I’ve seen. I’m planning on YZC for the e wells. The detail is pretty good in there already. I did see a pic yesterday that made the whole area look like a steam punks nightmare. 😩 soo I might make a few wires here and there as a nod on the right direction.  I hope you like it.

🤩

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I’m away for the weekend so no real time for plastic fantastic but looking this morning at Peter’s absolutely stunning build ( @airscale ) Even though I won’t even consider coming close to this pretty much 1:1 scale beauty I think what I have can be painted and wired into a close resemblance to what I’m after.

51221878201_ea0403a95e_b.jpg

looking at these builds this morning though has shown me that I should have painted the bottom of my cockpit floor. 😲😩.

I have just slashed some paint on before heading off to sort out the van.

 

Hope you’re all having a fun week in the sun. 🌞

 

Johnny

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Johnny,--wow, thank you so much "Wow you are far far too kind. I think you’ll find your modelling and painting skills as good as any I’ve seen. I’m planning on YZC for the e wells"--extremely high praise coming from you.  🙌 

 

I have 2 thoughts when it comes P-51D wheel wells, 1) I dont think anyone can pin this topic down completely, so those of us obsessed with the hobby have a great opportunity to discuss/blog over the beverage of our choice, keep a cottage aftermarket industry going and get eye rolls from our family when we have decided our selection is right or "good enough" 😂 & 2) Going back to my build, I decided that I would go with NMF overall with YZC stingers and back spar--I did this based on "After much humming and hawing, I decided to go with evidence from OLeary's book, @Olivier de St Raph's build (pg 27/37-39) and Eduards 1/48 Master Class P-51D instructions & Tom Cleaver's build (https://modelingmadness.com/review/allies/cleaver/us/usaaf/tc7251d.htm) that the serial numbers of both Kelly Kid 2 P-51D-10 (44-14207) & P-51D-5 E2-S (44-13926) had unpainted wheel wells, with YZC spars/ribs."  FWIW, I believe YZC became the overall color somewhere at the end of -15 or beginning of the -20 production runs which corresponds to the Eduard's instructions. 

 

All that said, I would refer to point #1 as I know there are a lot of more well versed folks out there on this topic--link to my thread is below and my research is on the 15 March 2020 post.  You can thrash me later if I am hindering progress or if sharing this info is in poor form--Ill owe you a beer when we start traveling again 🍻    

 

Best,


Erwin

 

 

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7 hours ago, VT Red Sox Fan said:

Johnny,--wow, thank you so much "Wow you are far far too kind. I think you’ll find your modelling and painting skills as good as any I’ve seen. I’m planning on YZC for the e wells"--extremely high praise coming from you.  🙌 

 

I have 2 thoughts when it comes P-51D wheel wells, 1) I dont think anyone can pin this topic down completely, so those of us obsessed with the hobby have a great opportunity to discuss/blog over the beverage of our choice, keep a cottage aftermarket industry going and get eye rolls from our family when we have decided our selection is right or "good enough" 😂 & 2) Going back to my build, I decided that I would go with NMF overall with YZC stingers and back spar--I did this based on "After much humming and hawing, I decided to go with evidence from OLeary's book, @Olivier de St Raph's build (pg 27/37-39) and Eduards 1/48 Master Class P-51D instructions & Tom Cleaver's build (https://modelingmadness.com/review/allies/cleaver/us/usaaf/tc7251d.htm) that the serial numbers of both Kelly Kid 2 P-51D-10 (44-14207) & P-51D-5 E2-S (44-13926) had unpainted wheel wells, with YZC spars/ribs."  FWIW, I believe YZC became the overall color somewhere at the end of -15 or beginning of the -20 production runs which corresponds to the Eduard's instructions. 

 

All that said, I would refer to point #1 as I know there are a lot of more well versed folks out there on this topic--link to my thread is below and my research is on the 15 March 2020 post.  You can thrash me later if I am hindering progress or if sharing this info is in poor form--Ill owe you a beer when we start traveling again 🍻    

 

Best,


Erwin

 

 


You’re more than welcome Erwin. Praise well deserved. 😇

The research on those Tao threads in your thread are great. I’ll be using some of that for sure. I did however see this. (This is what I was talking about earlier)

As I haven’t got all the time in the world for this build I’m running with painted YZC. I’ll add some wiring but I need to get this one done. I think based on where she’s going I don’t think she’ll be turned over very often. 🤞 No Mustang action this weekend as I’ve been on a half term break with the fam. Hopefully something in the week. 🤞🤞🤞

 

 Jont.

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All good Johnny, wheel well colors on a P-51D are a can of worms--I dont think anyone can definitively say right or wrong at this point.  There is a lot of great info on the attached thread.  I think we can all agree when we see great mastery of the art--which is clearly coming together in this build (actually all your builds)--best, Erwin

Edited by VT Red Sox Fan
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Reading all the above, and considering that the P-51D I'm building is an early production, I think I'll leave the wheel wells in aluminium. All, please forgive the probably obvious question, but does that apply to the tail wheel well too?

 

Ciao

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YZC look like a good guess for late Mustangs...

I think that I have YZC, NMF and Interior green ones....

Tail wheel wells are mostly YZC, AFAIK

Good job my Dear Spad !!

Sincerely.

CC

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On 07/06/2021 at 01:40, VT Red Sox Fan said:

All good Johnny, wheel well colors on a P-51D are a can of worms--I dont think anyone can definitively say right or wrong at this point.  There is a lot of great info on the attached thread.  I think we can all agree when we see great mastery of the art--which is clearly coming together in this build (actually all your builds)--best, Erwin

Thanks Erwin. I don’t know about mastery. Just some bench time would be nice. 🤪

12 hours ago, Biggles87 said:

It’s easier if you’re building a Korean period aircraft ( which doesn’t help you of course ) because by that time, I believe they were overpainted with interior green.

 

Johm

Thanks. Korean you say🤔 hmmm *the stash twitches. 🤣😇

7 hours ago, giemme said:

Reading all the above, and considering that the P-51D I'm building is an early production, I think I'll leave the wheel wells in aluminium. All, please forgive the probably obvious question, but does that apply to the tail wheel well too?

 

Ciao

🤫🤫🤫 You know what happens when you start talking about colours. 😶🌫️😱🤣

5 hours ago, corsaircorp said:

YZC look like a good guess for late Mustangs...

I think that I have YZC, NMF and Interior green ones....

Tail wheel wells are mostly YZC, AFAIK

Good job my Dear Spad !!

Sincerely.

CC

Thanks Alain your knowledge is appreciated. 🤩😇

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Not much to update I’m afraid. It’s busy at work and busy in life at the moment. We managed to get away to Ludlow for a few days over a long weekend which was a nice treat.

Started off with a slight hitch. 😩 A split tyre valve.

51236781741_65bf990f3b_b.jpg

Luckily I had gorilla tape to hand and a very understanding mechanic. 🤩

An hour late but we got there.

51237556914_acf6e65765_b.jpg

The world does seem to be opening up again. 😇

The cave is full of camping gear / heat and clean washing. At least it’s clean right. ☺️

I have however I have added some wires to the rear battery and radio area.

51237507499_618b2ee8cf_b.jpg

And after the big wheel well debate of 2021 I have tidied up and primed all the bits ready for some good ol’ paint action. 

51236022717_b6141f13d6_b.jpg

We are getting carpet fitted tomorrow and hosting a belated Christmas on Saturday so here’s to a possible Sunday of modelling.

 

Take care friends.

 

Johnny. 🐎

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33 minutes ago, The Spadgent said:

Not much to update I’m afraid. It’s busy at work and busy in life at the moment. We managed to get away to Ludlow for a few days over a long weekend which was a nice treat.

Started off with a slight hitch. 😩 A split tyre valve.

51236781741_65bf990f3b_b.jpg

 

Johnny. 🐎

 

Glad you got that fixed Johnny! You're not the only one with camper woes ...

51237030108_bd17bf7bbf_z.jpg

Kombi chassis repairs by Mike, on Flickr

 

I'm in the middle of clearing this little mess up on ours. Working on scale builds is a lot less stressful than the 1:1 scale stuff! And the tools you need are a lot more dangerous. Angle grinders terrify me 😱  But got summer plans for it and need to crack on. Once the tin worm has been sorted out a dual circuit master cylinder and brake servo upgrade on the cards. The poor old Stranraer has had to take a back seat for a while.

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Johnny,

 

So glad you sorted things out so you and the fam could get away and have fun—and you kicked butt on getting some parts painted—that said, I am wowed by your rear cockpit wiring—well done!  It makes me want to start another P-51D after the Wildcat/Kate project. 
 

If you don’t mind, I’ll take a shot at G’s @giemme question concerning the tail wheel well color on this thread so others can at the very least leverage my knowledge or the holes I have in what I know—I don’t have 1st hand operational knowledge like @Gene K does on F-4s—I was born a little late to see operational P-51Ds in action. 🐣
 

When I built my Kelly Kid 2 P-51D-10 linked in my post above, I inferred from O’Leary’s book that all P-51D mostly had the interior of the tail sub-assembly painted well YZC—the doors appear to be painted with aluminum interiors like the main landing gear doors.  That said, I believe the most commonly shared production shot of the tail planes come from a late production run (-20 or -25)which leads to awesome opportunities to bore our spouses on what the tail plane interior color might be in an early to mid ( approx -5 to -15 production blocks) might be.

 

 The instructions on Eduard’s Master Class P-51D kit covering -5 to -25 P-51Ds seem to support the theory that interior of the tail wheel area was likely YZC on all production blocks.  ( FWIW, in support of the MLG well YZC theory,  Eduard switched from NMF to YZC on the -15 and up) Finally, you may note I got this detail incorrect on my Kelly Kid 2 because my research indicated the  352d FG’s aircraft were well maintained and likely retained the OD canvass boots which sealed this area off from dust and visual inspection when not being maintained.  Given this I attempted to go were G won’t go by using an OD foil boot on a 1/72 prop fighter which made the tail wheel well discussion mute for my effort. (Meant to be a joke given G’a humorous ribbing during my 1/72 prop fighter builds)

 

As always, I am far from the Mustang expert, and, I don’t, but wish,  I worked for restorers like Air Corps Aviation or an aviation museum, but I do love to share what I have learned on this journey.  Any feedback is welcome and I apologize if I sound more definitive than I meant to be—this tail wheel well color question really is a good one.  And as Johnny points out, it is a can of worms that this fish (ie me) had to take a bite at.

 

Johnny, I am sorry if I took up too much space in your thread—this truly is amazing work, and I plan on using a lot of it on my next P-51D and future aircraft efforts—which, in my humble opinion, is the standard for all your builds.  In many ways, I may be exhibit “A” of reads too much and should build more 😎

 

Best to all, 

 

Erwin

Edited by VT Red Sox Fan
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9 hours ago, Quiet Mike said:

 

Glad you got that fixed Johnny! You're not the only one with camper woes ...

51237030108_bd17bf7bbf_z.jpg

Kombi chassis repairs by Mike, on Flickr

 

I'm in the middle of clearing this little mess up on ours. Working on scale builds is a lot less stressful than the 1:1 scale stuff! And the tools you need are a lot more dangerous. Angle grinders terrify me 😱  But got summer plans for it and need to crack on. Once the tin worm has been sorted out a dual circuit master cylinder and brake servo upgrade on the cards. The poor old Stranraer has had to take a back seat for a while.

Well Gents,

Not funny indeed...

But I get a little bit further...

IMG_20210609_161402

By luck, I do it myself.... BUT.....

Annoying....

Korean War Dear Spad.... it mean Sharkmouth...:evil_laugh:

Sincerely.

CC

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19 minutes ago, corsaircorp said:

Well Gents,

Not funny indeed...

But I get a little bit further...

IMG_20210609_161402

By luck, I do it myself.... BUT.....

Annoying....

Korean War Dear Spad.... it mean Sharkmouth...:evil_laugh:

Sincerely.

CC

Wassappning CC, headlight bulb failure?

 

 

 

;)

 

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38 minutes ago, perdu said:

Wassappning CC, headlight bulb failure?

 

 

 

;)

 

No joke, on a Renault Scenic phase II, it's about the job needed.

No, just that damned clutch actuator.... That is now IN the gearbox....

I hate car designers....

As everything has to be dismantled, I also change the starter, complete clutch, and transmission shafts...

Renault WAS making cars years ago, changing a clutch on a R4 was a 3 hours affair....

Old Astra it was a matter of 30 minutes....

Today, changing a belt on an Audi is one day of hardwork....

Still 6 years to do and.... No more mechanic work...

But you also know it indeed...

Sincerely.

CC

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Yes I do.

I am suffering from a bad, no terrible, design flaw on my MGF.

The clutch arm does not return after operation due to corrosion in the bearings.

Keeps feeling like the clutch is slipping.

 

Hate it.

 

And can't get in to fix it.

 

Hate it!

 

 

 

 

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11 hours ago, VT Red Sox Fan said:

When I built my Kelly Kid 2 P-51D-10 linked in my post above, I inferred from O’Leary’s book that all P-51D mostly had the interior of the tail sub-assembly painted well YZC—the doors appear to be painted with aluminum interiors like the main landing gear doors.  That said, I believe the most commonly shared production shot of the tail planes come from a late production run (-20 or -25)which leads to awesome opportunities to bore our spouses on what the tail plane interior color might be in an early to mid ( approx -5 to -15 production blocks) might be.

 

 The instructions on Eduard’s Master Class P-51D kit covering -5 to -25 P-51Ds seem to support the theory that interior of the tail wheel area was likely YZC on all production blocks.  ( FWIW, in support of the MLG well YZC theory,  Eduard switched from NMF to YZC on the -15 and up) Finally, you may note I got this detail incorrect on my Kelly Kid 2 because my research indicated the  352d FG’s aircraft were well maintained and likely retained the OD canvass boots which sealed this area off from dust and visual inspection when not being maintained.  Given this I attempted to go were G won’t go by using an OD foil boot on a 1/72 prop fighter which made the tail wheel well discussion mute for my effort. (Meant to be a joke given G’a humorous ribbing during my 1/72 prop fighter builds)

Let's see If I got this right: since Petie 2nd was -10, the main wheel wells interiors should be unpainted aluminium, while the tail wheel interior should be YZC, with the doors interiors of the latter again unpainted aluminium. Or at least this is the most probable configuration. Correct? Thanks Erwin and anybody else contributed to this, BTW :thumbsup:  And apologies for the continuous thread hijack, Johnny  @The Spadgent 

 

Ciao

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23 hours ago, Quiet Mike said:

 

Glad you got that fixed Johnny! You're not the only one with camper woes ...

51237030108_bd17bf7bbf_z.jpg

Kombi chassis repairs by Mike, on Flickr

 

I'm in the middle of clearing this little mess up on ours. Working on scale builds is a lot less stressful than the 1:1 scale stuff! And the tools you need are a lot more dangerous. Angle grinders terrify me 😱  But got summer plans for it and need to crack on. Once the tin worm has been sorted out a dual circuit master cylinder and brake servo upgrade on the cards. The poor old Stranraer has had to take a back seat for a while.

Oh gawd!! That doesn’t look like fun.

My exhaust Rear box’s second skin is quite decrepit and could do with replacing but that’s child’s play compared to what you have to deal with. Lucky you can fix that kind of stuff. God speed sir.

14 hours ago, perdu said:

Wassappning CC, headlight bulb failure?

 

 

 

;)

 

oooh you joker. You know very well it’s a duff indicator wire. 🤣

20 hours ago, VT Red Sox Fan said:

Johnny,

 

So glad you sorted things out so you and the fam could get away and have fun—and you kicked butt on getting some parts painted—that said, I am wowed by your rear cockpit wiring—well done!  It makes me want to start another P-51D after the Wildcat/Kate project. 
 

If you don’t mind, I’ll take a shot at G’s @giemme question concerning the tail wheel well color on this thread so others can at the very least leverage my knowledge or the holes I have in what I know—I don’t have 1st hand operational knowledge like @Gene K does on F-4s—I was born a little late to see operational P-51Ds in action. 🐣
 

When I built my Kelly Kid 2 P-51D-10 linked in my post above, I inferred from O’Leary’s book that all P-51D mostly had the interior of the tail sub-assembly painted well YZC—the doors appear to be painted with aluminum interiors like the main landing gear doors.  That said, I believe the most commonly shared production shot of the tail planes come from a late production run (-20 or -25)which leads to awesome opportunities to bore our spouses on what the tail plane interior color might be in an early to mid ( approx -5 to -15 production blocks) might be.

 

 The instructions on Eduard’s Master Class P-51D kit covering -5 to -25 P-51Ds seem to support the theory that interior of the tail wheel area was likely YZC on all production blocks.  ( FWIW, in support of the MLG well YZC theory,  Eduard switched from NMF to YZC on the -15 and up) Finally, you may note I got this detail incorrect on my Kelly Kid 2 because my research indicated the  352d FG’s aircraft were well maintained and likely retained the OD canvass boots which sealed this area off from dust and visual inspection when not being maintained.  Given this I attempted to go were G won’t go by using an OD foil boot on a 1/72 prop fighter which made the tail wheel well discussion mute for my effort. (Meant to be a joke given G’a humorous ribbing during my 1/72 prop fighter builds)

 

As always, I am far from the Mustang expert, and, I don’t, but wish,  I worked for restorers like Air Corps Aviation or an aviation museum, but I do love to share what I have learned on this journey.  Any feedback is welcome and I apologize if I sound more definitive than I meant to be—this tail wheel well color question really is a good one.  And as Johnny points out, it is a can of worms that this fish (ie me) had to take a bite at.

 

Johnny, I am sorry if I took up too much space in your thread—this truly is amazing work, and I plan on using a lot of it on my next P-51D and future aircraft efforts—which, in my humble opinion, is the standard for all your builds.  In many ways, I may be exhibit “A” of reads too much and should build more 😎

 

Best to all, 

 

Erwin

No need to apologise, you’re spreading the love of information. That’s the best thing about building little plastic Aeroplanes. You get to learn about the big metal / wooden ones. It’s a pleasure reading all these wonderful facts, theories and wonderings. 🤩 

15 hours ago, woody37 said:

Nice progress...and nice camper van too!

Thank you kind sir. 

14 hours ago, corsaircorp said:

Well Gents,

Not funny indeed...

But I get a little bit further...

IMG_20210609_161402

By luck, I do it myself.... BUT.....

Annoying....

Korean War Dear Spad.... it mean Sharkmouth...:evil_laugh:

Sincerely.

CC

Bloody hell Alain. That’s some serious work you have going on there. 🤞 you get her all back together again. 

9 hours ago, giemme said:

Let's see If I got this right: since Petie 2nd was -10, the main wheel wells interiors should be unpainted aluminium, while the tail wheel interior should be YZC, with the doors interiors of the latter again unpainted aluminium. Or at least this is the most probable configuration. Correct? Thanks Erwin and anybody else contributed to this, BTW :thumbsup:  And apologies for the continuous thread hijack, Johnny  @The Spadgent 

 

Ciao

Not a hijack more an enhancement. ❤️
 

 

Fencing tonight so no model time. Fingers crossed for Sunday. It’s meant to be a scorcher though. 🤺🌞

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Johnny,

 

As always, you are way to kind.  I really need to better understand your time management skills, between family time with the wife and kids, work and commuting my modeling time always falls to the way side--ironically you are the cause for zen in this situation when you said something to the effect of enjoying the build without a time schedule.  Perhaps my problem has to do with my reading on color details 🙂 

 

G @giemme, On to your questions--thank you for reaching out--means a lot to me that you would ask this of me and it also means a lot that Johnny has not slapped me with a wet trout.  Given your questions, I went back to O'Leary's book and my build to closely review them.  I found I made an error in my initial comments--the gear door interiors would likely be stamped NMF.  Also, I have linked my favorite P-51D build, Missouri Armada, below-- @Totally Mad Olivier really did a jaw dropping build with amazing P-51D research (I used it a lot in my Kelly Kid 2 build)--this truly is an epic build with amazing global research--&, no I am not on Olivier's pay roll, only continuously amazed by this work.  Here are a list of pertinent pages as I can't seem to find blog post numbers.

 

       Pg 18:  Period color photos of main landing gear strut details

       Pg 21:  Dorsal fin detail per block

       Pg 26: Lower rear cowling (portion just forward main gear well) differences between -5/-10/-20,

     Pg 27: Wheel well discussion on P-51D-20 Sierra Sue discussing how wheel well castings were treated throughout the P-51D production series and the skins were NMF until late in the -20 production run when they too were treated with YZC (room for negotiation here based on references from Eduard's research for their Royal Class that would have YZC treated wheel wells start with -15--either way I think the evidence strongly suggests NMF skins attached to YZC tinted ribs/spars for P-51D -5s &-10s)

       Pg 36: Tail wheel canvas cover

 

 

Given this, here is my best guess at what a near factory fresh P-51D-10 Mustang's details would look like:

 

      Main landing gear well--overall NMF skins with YZC tinted ribs, rear/forward spars and rib separating the 2 wells

      Main landing gear doors--NMF (inner door skid plates likely YZC)

      Main landing gear--aluminum lacquer overall/chrome shock absorber area/more than likely chromate green or YZC linkages attaching gear door to strut

     Tali wheel area--more than likely overall YZC (I have the least confidence in this assessment since I covered this area with foil to replicate the standard canvas boot cover)

      Tail wheel doors--NMF

      Tail wheel door actuator--chromate green or YZC

      Tail wheel strut --aluminum lacquer overall

 

Would like to emphasize there is plenty of room for debate on my assessments above, and given the bench of talent here I do not want to be perceived as a know it all (I honestly grow a lot from others knowledge).  In order to inform further discussion, or to assist others to have comfort moving beyond this can of worms, I based my assessments primarily on the attached research/build blog, Eduard's Royal Class instructions, Air Corps Aviation restoration photos, O'Leary's book & the North American Aviation photos/videos from the Boeing archives below.

https://secure.boeingimages.com/C.aspxVP3=DamView&WS=SearchResults&VBID=2JRSN2A6NJTNFY&RW=808&RH=414#/DamView&VBID=2JR0MUFGH4PZ&PN=1&WS=SearchResults

    

G, Hope this helps, and Johnny I apologize for taking up so much room on your blog--but, my wife probably is thanking you for saving her from another P-51D discovery discussion  :laugh:

 

Best to all,

 

Erwin

     

   

 

Edited by VT Red Sox Fan
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Erwin, thank you! That thread is a gold mine, and you did a wonderful job in pointing out the relevant stuff to my question! :thanks:

Ciao

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@giemme--G, this is truly the least I could do given how much advice you have given me over the years--now I just got to figure out what I owe Johnny--I am really looking forward to how you and Johnny sort out the NMF with lacquer and paint--as you know I have typically done NMF in foil, but, you guys always inspire me push the limit--those 1/72 Airfix P-51Ds and Tamiya P-47Ds are looking mighty interesting following my Wildcat/Kate saga given all this great work on NMF WW 2 props--Cheers, Erwin

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On 11/06/2021 at 12:24, VT Red Sox Fan said:

@giemme--G, this is truly the least I could do given how much advice you have given me over the years--now I just got to figure out what I owe Johnny--I am really looking forward to how you and Johnny sort out the NMF with lacquer and paint--as you know I have typically done NMF in foil, but, you guys always inspire me push the limit--those 1/72 Airfix P-51Ds and Tamiya P-47Ds are looking mighty interesting following my Wildcat/Kate saga given all this great work on NMF WW 2 props--Cheers, Erwin

Thanks from me too Erwin for all the great info. Alas I read this after my day painting. I might re do the tail doors but as I have just glued the wells together I’m sticking (literally) with my decision to have YZC wells. I’ll pop wires/pipes in but I need to move forward with this as time is short. 
 
Any NMF or metallics I do I use Vallejo metallics. It’s a really good Acrylic range. I love em. 

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Good evening you noisy lot. Hope you have had a wonderful weekend? For those in Blighty e have had a sweltering couple of days. 🔥🔥🔥

Christmas went well yesterday. Even my dear old folks turned up for the celebrations. 🎄 Well worth the wait. We should do Christmas in June more often. 😀😇🤩

 More good news is I got to sit at the bench today in between doing work for Gem’s business and cooking dinner. 
I seem to have taken a lot of photos so I’ll get on with it.

The day started with lots of pure shade action.

rear well walls.

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In rear intakes area.

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Two part intake internals.

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The control section.

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More vent trunking and flaps.

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I even pe shaded the the little actuators. I love a pre shade me. 😆

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Main well walls.

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Partitions.

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And cockpit floor.

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And now the good bit. YZC. 😀

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I love that colour! Such a shame this isn’t actually mine. I might just have to do another. 
tuning this part over to do the hole internals if made a bit of a rookie error.

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Doh! 🤪 so in with a spot of black and we’re back on track. 

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Then YZC. I guess I could have done this NMF but I’d decided on full yellow so that’s what I’m sticking with.

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Most of the other parts got a good blast also.

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Yes I have just read that the rear doors might have been NMF. Well maybe I’ll remedy that but I’m running with what I have for now.

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To be fair if I did want to do the skins NMF this construction method would make it easy to do.

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More vents and internals.

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The pipes I’d missed got some silvery action too.

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Along with the newly drilled out exhausts.

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And the cowl thing.

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The intake filter also got a blast.

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The controls got a CP green coat and details with a hairy stick.

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Although the well parts were a good fit they needed a lot of pegs and some extra bits of plasticard to keep everything in place and without gaps.

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All this now needs a wash. Flory time! Well after a top coat. Luckily it’s so hot today everything dries really quickly. So While waiting for things to go off I did a spot of work for Gem then back to the bench. The pipes got some details painted and a few dirty washes.

looks pretty good. 

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A light Flory wash and a mat coat over gloss got us to the parts being ready for construction.

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Did I mention that I love this colour? 🥰

 You can see the two little holding blocks glued in place to give strength to the join. I also hand painted some of the details.

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rear intakes.

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Controls got some powders too.

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The exhaust metallics got knocked back.

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As did the Cowell bit.

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That my friends gives me enough bits to start glueing together. I will add the piping to the main wells but everything I think comes together pretty quickly after this step. 😍

 

For now I’m absolutely pooped and as  hot as a hot thing on a planet made entirely from hotness. So I’m going to finish up with a Thanks for popping in. Wish you all a good night and I’m off to make a cuppa.

 

Take care chums.

 

Johnny YZC 🧐🤩

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