Corsairfoxfouruncle Posted April 29, 2021 Share Posted April 29, 2021 To any and everyone that has an Iwata Airbrush … DO NOT ….. I Repeat DO NOT USE THIS STUFF !!! I Just sprayed enamel through my Iwata HP-B+ and when I cleaned it with this, it dissolved all the seals instantly. My airbrush now only spits and leaks everywhere !!! Please if you have this stuff dump it. It will ruin your airbrush. There is no lot # on the bottle so can only assume that all versions of this are bad. Dennis 5 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mottlemaster Posted April 29, 2021 Share Posted April 29, 2021 Of course dump it in a responsible way at a recycling centre as will no doubt dissolve wildlife 4 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Corsairfoxfouruncle Posted April 29, 2021 Author Share Posted April 29, 2021 (edited) 2 hours ago, Mottlemaster said: Of course dump it in a responsible way at a recycling centre as will no doubt dissolve wildlife Yes I will, Im an outdoorsman when I can get out and enjoy it. So try to be responsible all the time. Edited April 29, 2021 by Corsairfoxfouruncle 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ray_W Posted April 29, 2021 Share Posted April 29, 2021 Strange. If it is an IWATA with a teflon needle packing then there is not much that can dissolve the seals. For example, check here: https://www.calpaclab.com/teflon-ptfe-compatibility/ 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bmwh548 Posted April 29, 2021 Share Posted April 29, 2021 He's most likely referring to the "rubber" seals at the front of the airbrush. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ray_W Posted April 29, 2021 Share Posted April 29, 2021 1 hour ago, bmwh548 said: He's most likely referring to the "rubber" seals at the front of the airbrush. Actually, the HP-B Plus does not have a rubber o-ring sealing the air cap. What you do need to do though is to replace the thread seal, if you remove the cap. I use beeswax. @Corsairfoxfouruncle Hi Dennis, check this before you dump your Enamel Thinner. I do not think the Testors is the problem. Ray 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Corsairfoxfouruncle Posted April 29, 2021 Author Share Posted April 29, 2021 7 hours ago, Ray_W said: Strange. If it is an IWATA with a teflon needle packing then there is not much that can dissolve the seals. For example, check here: https://www.calpaclab.com/teflon-ptfe-compatibility/ I thought so also until I witnessed bubbling from every joint on my Airbrush last night. The A/B functions to a degree but it sputters and spits and I get the bubbling from the joins around the needle/nozzle/cap area. Going by your second post thats the exact join thats bubbling ? So maybe teflon tape, I don't have any beeswax here. I would need to go buy some, wouldn't even know where to ? Would lip balm be the same if so i have some I can use. 3 hours ago, bmwh548 said: He's most likely referring to the "rubber" seals at the front of the airbrush. Yes Ray is correct no rubber but I thought air might be getting past an internal seal behind the cap that cant be seen ? Maybe I am wrong and need to re address this and see if its just a sealant issue ? I will check it out and post here later today. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ray_W Posted April 29, 2021 Share Posted April 29, 2021 5 minutes ago, Corsairfoxfouruncle said: So maybe teflon tape, I don't have any beeswax here. I would need to go buy some, wouldn't even know where to ? Would lip balm be the same if so i have some I can use. I use lip balm. This should fix your problem. I do it up firm finger tight. 1 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tank152 Posted April 29, 2021 Share Posted April 29, 2021 I've sprayed everything through my Iwatas ranging from etching primer to 2k clear coat and everything in between and never had a reaction so i'm sure a bit of enamel thinner isn't to blame. 1 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Corsairfoxfouruncle Posted April 29, 2021 Author Share Posted April 29, 2021 4 minutes ago, tank152 said: I've sprayed everything through my Iwatas ranging from etching primer to 2k clear coat and everything in between and never had a reaction so i'm sure a bit of enamel thinner isn't to blame. Yes I’m starting to think I may be wrong, I need to try sealing it with wax and see if it improves. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bmwh548 Posted April 29, 2021 Share Posted April 29, 2021 I wasn't aware of the type of Iwata you're using, I think some of them actually have an O-ring for the nozzle. Anyway, it's probably just the thread sealant that needs to be redone, perhaps enamel thinner eats through it easier than other stuff. You can get either thread sealant or teflon tape from hardware stores. The thread sealant is used for gas hose joints around here (it's a green paste). The teflon tape might be a bit tricky to put on, especially around the nozzle thread. If the PTFE seal on the needle is loose just give it a bit of a twist and check it. 1 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dnl42 Posted April 29, 2021 Share Posted April 29, 2021 I also use beeswax for that seal. Not clear to me that teflon tape is a good idea. Beeswax should be available from a woodworking store, like Woodcraft. 2 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ray_W Posted April 29, 2021 Share Posted April 29, 2021 4 minutes ago, dnl42 said: Not clear to me that teflon tape is a good idea. I agree. The beeswax (chap stick) allows you to close up on the shoulder of the main body. Not as much tension as teflon tape and seems to seal well. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tank152 Posted April 30, 2021 Share Posted April 30, 2021 Beeswax is what I apply to the thread highlighted by Ray in his post. I've got a pot of the stuff and apply it to the tread with a cocktail stick. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Longbow Posted June 30, 2021 Share Posted June 30, 2021 On 4/29/2021 at 12:31 PM, Corsairfoxfouruncle said: I thought so also until I witnessed bubbling from every joint on my Airbrush last night. The A/B functions to a degree but it sputters and spits and I get the bubbling from the joins around the needle/nozzle/cap area. Going by your second post thats the exact join thats bubbling ? So maybe teflon tape, I don't have any beeswax here. I would need to go buy some, wouldn't even know where to ? Would lip balm be the same if so i have some I can use. Yes Ray is correct no rubber but I thought air might be getting past an internal seal behind the cap that cant be seen ? Maybe I am wrong and need to re address this and see if its just a sealant issue ? I will check it out and post here later today. You've probably fixed this, but Berts Beeswax lip balm is available at any CVS, Walgreen's, or Walmart, etc. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Corsairfoxfouruncle Posted June 30, 2021 Author Share Posted June 30, 2021 8 hours ago, Longbow said: You've probably fixed this, but Berts Beeswax lip balm is available at any CVS, Walgreen's, or Walmart, etc. No actually I haven't completely fixed it. Budget has kept me from doing a lot lately. I’ve got 9 models waiting to be decal’d or painted and was planning on some of that tomorrow after my monthly payment hits. I plan on buying a rebuild kit in August for my Neo so I can have all three of my A/B’s up next month. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thommo Posted August 13, 2021 Share Posted August 13, 2021 I used that thinner all the time in my Iwata HP-C Plus, though to date I think only mixed it with Model Master enamel paints, not sprayed neat. No problems so far. The needle seal in my Iwata is a clear/white colour, plastic or teflon. I'm not sure if it has any rubber seals anywhere - maybe one around the trigger plunger mechanism? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ray_W Posted August 13, 2021 Share Posted August 13, 2021 (edited) 23 hours ago, thommo said: The needle seal in my Iwata is a clear/white colour, plastic or teflon. If original, it is Teflon. It is the only seal in this airbrush where paint can make contact. The Iwata HP Plus range of airbrushes are some of the best in terms of minimal replacement sealings in contact with any paint. There is one replaceable PTFE seal with possible contact with paint/thinner and that is the needle packing (5). Designed for that purpose. I have never had to replace mine in years of use typically with lacquer thinners that I expect are more aggressive than the Testors enamel thinner. Other O-rings (14, 30) are on the air side with another on the air valve stem not shown. O-ring (27) serves no sealing purpose other than a nice resistant flexible surface to tighten the rear handle up on. The only way any of these would come in contact with aggressive thinners is to fully submerge you airbrush in thinners and then this would probably have minimal effect unless left and forgotten or done regularly. There should be no need for this anyway. The critical seals are between the nozzle cap (2), the nozzle (3) and the airbrush body (13D). When new, Iwata has applied a thread sealant which is usually disturbed when removing the nozzle cap and nozzle. You then need to clean the threads carefully and gently, and apply a suitable replacement. For convenience, many of us use beeswax. Note that you can easily check if this is a problem by making a soapy water mix and applying it to the joins before stripping your airbrush down and see if there are bubbles. Also a good final check once assembled. There are no problems with Testors enamel thinner in this airbrush or, I expect, any other brand of reasonable quality. Ray Edited August 14, 2021 by Ray_W clarification 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Corsairfoxfouruncle Posted August 13, 2021 Author Share Posted August 13, 2021 1 hour ago, thommo said: I used that thinner all the time in my Iwata HP-C Plus, though to date I think only mixed it with Model Master enamel paints, not sprayed neat. No problems so far. The needle seal in my Iwata is a clear/white colour, plastic or teflon. I'm not sure if it has any rubber seals anywhere - maybe one around the trigger plunger mechanism? 1 hour ago, Ray_W said: If original, it is Teflon. It is the only seal in this airbrush where paint can make contact. The Iwata HP Plus range of airbrushes are some of the best in terms of minimal replacement sealings in contact with any paint. There is one replaceable PTFE seal with possible contact with paint/thinner and that is the needle packing (5). Designed for that purpose. I have never had to replace mine in years of use typically with lacquer thinners that I expect are more aggressive than the Testors enamel thinner. Other O-rings (14, 30) are on the air side with another on the air valve stem not shown. O-ring (27) serves no sealing purpose other than a nice resistant flexible surface to tighten the rear handle up on. The only way any of these would come in contact with aggressive thinners is to fully submerge you airbrush in thinners and then this would probably have minimal effect unless left and forgotten or done regularly. There should be no need for this anyway. The critical seal is between the nozzle (2) and the airbrush body (13D). When new, Iwata has applied a thread sealant which is usually disturbed when removing the nozzle. You then need to clean the threads carefully and gently, and apply a suitable replacement. For convenience, many of us use beeswax. Note that you can easily check if this is a problem by making a soapy water mix and applying it to the joins before stripping your airbrush down and see if there are bubbles. Also a good final check once assembled. There are no problems with Testors enamel thinner in this airbrush or, I expect, any other brand of reasonable quality. Ray Part #3 in the diagram had a tiny red o-ring seal that dissolved. I think thats whats causing my issue’s with the HP-B+. I think thats whats causing the spitting issue’s. I finally have been able to procure supplies and parts for all of my A/B’s including pure bees wax. So I will know more this weekend and will post when the results are in. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thommo Posted August 13, 2021 Share Posted August 13, 2021 Ray W Yes, I put beeswax there too from time to time, though not lately. I also put a little beeswax on the thread of #3 at times, and thread on what I think is #11. The rubber seal on mine on #11 is a bit raggedy, but no problem. 5 minutes ago, Corsairfoxfouruncle said: Part #3 in the diagram had a tiny red o-ring seal that dissolved. I think thats whats causing my issue’s with the HP-B+. I think thats whats causing the spitting issue’s. I finally have been able to procure supplies and parts for all of my A/B’s including pure bees wax. So I will know more this weekend and will post when the results are in. My HP-C plus never had a tiny red seal on #3 as far as I know? The only time I had a problem with that part was when I forgot to nip it up a little tighter with the little spanner. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ray_W Posted August 13, 2021 Share Posted August 13, 2021 1 hour ago, Corsairfoxfouruncle said: Part #3 in the diagram had a tiny red o-ring seal that dissolved. Hi Dennis, In actual fact it is the red liquid sealant that Iwata has applied. Pull the nozzle out and you think it must of had an O-ring that dissolved leaving red residue. There was no O-ring. Gently clean the threads as the old red stuff hardens when it sets. Apply a little beeswax. Tighten it back up firm. Do not overtighten and you should be good to go. Assuming the nozzle is not damaged. Ray 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thommo Posted August 13, 2021 Share Posted August 13, 2021 12 hours ago, Ray_W said: Hi Dennis, In actual fact it is the red liquid sealant that Iwata has applied. Pull the nozzle out and you think it must of had an O-ring that dissolved leaving red residue. There was no O-ring. Gently clean the threads as the old red stuff hardens when it sets. Apply a little beeswax. Tighten it back up firm. Do not overtighten and you should be good to go. Assuming the nozzle is not damaged. Ray Yes, I recall that red stuff. It disappeared pretty fast. I pull that nozzle off all the time as it gets blocked with gunk. 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Corsairfoxfouruncle Posted August 13, 2021 Author Share Posted August 13, 2021 Well good to know the wax worked a treat on my airbrush, no more spitting or bubbling. @thommo, @Longbow, @tank152, @dnl42, @bmwh548, & @Ray_W thanks for all your help. 5 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ray_W Posted August 14, 2021 Share Posted August 14, 2021 6 hours ago, Corsairfoxfouruncle said: Well good to know the wax worked a treat on my airbrush Hi Dennis, Very glad your problems were resolved. Also great to get the feedback on what worked. Ray 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Yves Paris Posted September 23, 2022 Share Posted September 23, 2022 I use Teflon "pipe thread sealant" paste for plumbing to fix any air leak for the nozzle or the nozzle cap, I apply it carefully with a tooth pick on the threads and wipe the excess, I just did it this morning as I had bubbles in my cup, now, no more. Cheap and works every-time needed (mostly after cleaning) 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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