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WARNING !!!! I REPEAT WARNING !!!!


Corsairfoxfouruncle
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To any and everyone that has an Iwata Airbrush … DO NOT ….. I Repeat DO NOT USE THIS STUFF !!! rwONA8U.jpg
 

I Just sprayed enamel through my Iwata HP-B+ and when I cleaned it with this, it dissolved all the seals instantly. My airbrush now only spits and leaks everywhere !!! Please if you have this stuff dump it. It will ruin your airbrush. There is no lot # on the bottle so can only assume that all versions of this are bad. 


Dennis

 

 

 

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2 hours ago, Mottlemaster said:

Of course dump it in a responsible way at a recycling centre as will no doubt dissolve wildlife

Yes I will, Im an outdoorsman when I can get out and enjoy it. So try to be responsible all the time. 

Edited by Corsairfoxfouruncle
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1 hour ago, bmwh548 said:

He's most likely referring to the "rubber" seals at the front of the airbrush.

 

Actually, the HP-B Plus does not have a rubber o-ring sealing the air cap. What you do need to do though is to replace the thread seal, if you remove the cap. I use beeswax.

 

HP-B Plus Air Cap Seal

 

@Corsairfoxfouruncle Hi Dennis, check this before you dump your Enamel Thinner. I do not think the Testors is the problem.

 

Ray

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7 hours ago, Ray_W said:

Strange. If it is an IWATA with a teflon needle packing then there is not much that can dissolve the seals. For example, check here: https://www.calpaclab.com/teflon-ptfe-compatibility/

 

 

 

 

I thought so also until I witnessed bubbling from every joint on my Airbrush last night.  The A/B functions to a degree but it sputters and spits and I get the bubbling from the joins around the needle/nozzle/cap area. Going by your second post thats the exact join thats bubbling ? So maybe teflon tape, I don't have any beeswax here. I would need to go buy some, wouldn't even know where to ? Would lip balm be the same if so i have some I can use. 

 

3 hours ago, bmwh548 said:

He's most likely referring to the "rubber" seals at the front of the airbrush.

Yes Ray is correct no rubber but I thought air might be getting past an internal seal behind the cap that cant be seen ? Maybe I am wrong and need to re address this and see if its just a sealant issue ? I will check it out and post here later today. 

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5 minutes ago, Corsairfoxfouruncle said:

So maybe teflon tape, I don't have any beeswax here. I would need to go buy some, wouldn't even know where to ? Would lip balm be the same if so i have some I can use. 

 

I use lip balm. This should fix your problem. I do it up firm finger tight.

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I've sprayed everything through my Iwatas ranging from etching primer to 2k clear coat and everything in between and never had a reaction so i'm sure a bit of enamel thinner isn't to blame.

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4 minutes ago, tank152 said:

I've sprayed everything through my Iwatas ranging from etching primer to 2k clear coat and everything in between and never had a reaction so i'm sure a bit of enamel thinner isn't to blame.

Yes I’m starting to think I may be wrong, I need to try sealing it with wax and see if it improves. 

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I wasn't aware of the type of Iwata you're using, I think some of them actually have an O-ring for the nozzle. Anyway, it's probably just the thread sealant that needs to be redone, perhaps enamel thinner eats through it easier than other stuff. You can get either thread sealant or teflon tape from hardware stores. The thread sealant is used for gas hose joints around here (it's a green paste). The teflon tape might be a bit tricky to put on, especially around the nozzle thread.

If the PTFE seal on the needle is loose just give it a bit of a twist and check it. 

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4 minutes ago, dnl42 said:

Not clear to me that teflon tape is a good idea.

 

 

I agree. The beeswax (chap stick) allows you to close up on the shoulder of the main body. Not as much tension as teflon tape and seems to seal well. 

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  • 2 months later...
On 4/29/2021 at 12:31 PM, Corsairfoxfouruncle said:

I thought so also until I witnessed bubbling from every joint on my Airbrush last night.  The A/B functions to a degree but it sputters and spits and I get the bubbling from the joins around the needle/nozzle/cap area. Going by your second post thats the exact join thats bubbling ? So maybe teflon tape, I don't have any beeswax here. I would need to go buy some, wouldn't even know where to ? Would lip balm be the same if so i have some I can use. 

 

Yes Ray is correct no rubber but I thought air might be getting past an internal seal behind the cap that cant be seen ? Maybe I am wrong and need to re address this and see if its just a sealant issue ? I will check it out and post here later today. 

You've probably fixed this, but Berts Beeswax lip balm is available at any CVS, Walgreen's, or Walmart, etc.

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8 hours ago, Longbow said:

You've probably fixed this, but Berts Beeswax lip balm is available at any CVS, Walgreen's, or Walmart, etc.

No actually I haven't completely fixed it. Budget has kept me from doing a lot lately. I’ve got 9 models waiting to be decal’d or painted and was planning on some of that tomorrow after my monthly payment hits. I plan on buying a rebuild kit in August for my Neo so I can have all three of my A/B’s up next month. 

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  • 1 month later...

I used that thinner all the time in my Iwata HP-C Plus, though to date I think only mixed it with Model Master enamel paints, not sprayed neat.  No problems so far.

 

The needle seal in my Iwata is a clear/white colour, plastic or teflon.

 

I'm not sure if it has any rubber seals anywhere - maybe one around the trigger plunger mechanism?

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23 hours ago, thommo said:

The needle seal in my Iwata is a clear/white colour, plastic or teflon.

 

If original, it is Teflon. It is the only seal in this airbrush where paint can make contact.

 

The Iwata HP Plus range of airbrushes are some of the best in terms of minimal replacement sealings in contact with any paint. There is one replaceable PTFE seal with possible contact with paint/thinner and that is the needle packing (5). Designed for that purpose. I have never had to replace mine in years of use typically with lacquer thinners that I expect are more aggressive than the Testors enamel thinner. Other O-rings  (14, 30) are on the air side with another on the air valve stem not shown. O-ring (27) serves no sealing purpose other than a nice resistant flexible surface to tighten the rear handle up on. The only way any of these would come in contact with aggressive thinners is to fully submerge you airbrush in thinners and then this would probably have minimal effect unless left and forgotten or done regularly. There should be no need for this anyway.

 

The critical seals are between the nozzle cap (2), the nozzle (3) and the airbrush body (13D). When new, Iwata has applied a thread sealant which is usually disturbed when removing the nozzle cap and nozzle. You then need to clean the threads carefully and gently, and apply a suitable replacement. For convenience, many of us use beeswax. 

 

Note that you can easily check if this is a problem by making a soapy water mix and applying it to the joins before stripping your airbrush down and see if there are bubbles. Also a good final check once assembled. 

 

Iwata_Cleaning_8

 

There are no problems with Testors enamel thinner in this airbrush or, I expect, any other brand of reasonable quality. 

 

Ray

Edited by Ray_W
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1 hour ago, thommo said:

I used that thinner all the time in my Iwata HP-C Plus, though to date I think only mixed it with Model Master enamel paints, not sprayed neat.  No problems so far.

 

The needle seal in my Iwata is a clear/white colour, plastic or teflon.

 

I'm not sure if it has any rubber seals anywhere - maybe one around the trigger plunger mechanism?

 

1 hour ago, Ray_W said:

 

If original, it is Teflon. It is the only seal in this airbrush where paint can make contact.

 

The Iwata HP Plus range of airbrushes are some of the best in terms of minimal replacement sealings in contact with any paint. There is one replaceable PTFE seal with possible contact with paint/thinner and that is the needle packing (5). Designed for that purpose. I have never had to replace mine in years of use typically with lacquer thinners that I expect are more aggressive than the Testors enamel thinner. Other O-rings  (14, 30) are on the air side with another on the air valve stem not shown. O-ring (27) serves no sealing purpose other than a nice resistant flexible surface to tighten the rear handle up on. The only way any of these would come in contact with aggressive thinners is to fully submerge you airbrush in thinners and then this would probably have minimal effect unless left and forgotten or done regularly. There should be no need for this anyway.

 

The critical seal is between the nozzle (2) and the airbrush body (13D). When new, Iwata has applied a thread sealant which is usually disturbed when removing the nozzle. You then need to clean the threads carefully and gently, and apply a suitable replacement. For convenience, many of us use beeswax. 

 

Note that you can easily check if this is a problem by making a soapy water mix and applying it to the joins before stripping your airbrush down and see if there are bubbles. Also a good final check once assembled. 

 

 

 

Iwata_Cleaning_8

 

 

There are no problems with Testors enamel thinner in this airbrush or, I expect, any other brand of reasonable quality. 

 

Ray

Part #3 in the diagram had a tiny red o-ring seal that dissolved. I think thats whats causing my issue’s with the HP-B+. I think thats whats causing the spitting issue’s.  I finally have been able to procure supplies and parts for all of my A/B’s including pure bees wax. So I will know more this weekend and will post when the results are in. 

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Ray W

 

Yes, I put beeswax there too from time to time, though not lately.  I also put a little beeswax on the thread of #3 at times, and thread on what I think is #11.  The rubber seal on mine on #11 is a bit raggedy, but no problem.

 

 

5 minutes ago, Corsairfoxfouruncle said:

 

Part #3 in the diagram had a tiny red o-ring seal that dissolved. I think thats whats causing my issue’s with the HP-B+. I think thats whats causing the spitting issue’s.  I finally have been able to procure supplies and parts for all of my A/B’s including pure bees wax. So I will know more this weekend and will post when the results are in. 

 

My HP-C plus never had a tiny red seal on #3 as far as I know?  The only time I had a problem with that part was when I forgot to nip it up a little tighter with the little spanner.

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1 hour ago, Corsairfoxfouruncle said:

Part #3 in the diagram had a tiny red o-ring seal that dissolved.

 

Hi Dennis,

 

In actual fact it is the red liquid sealant that Iwata has applied. Pull the nozzle out and you think it must of had an O-ring that dissolved leaving red residue. There was no O-ring. Gently clean the threads as the old red stuff hardens when it sets. Apply a little beeswax. Tighten it back up firm. Do not overtighten and you should be good to go. Assuming the nozzle is not damaged.

 

Ray

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12 hours ago, Ray_W said:

 

Hi Dennis,

 

In actual fact it is the red liquid sealant that Iwata has applied. Pull the nozzle out and you think it must of had an O-ring that dissolved leaving red residue. There was no O-ring. Gently clean the threads as the old red stuff hardens when it sets. Apply a little beeswax. Tighten it back up firm. Do not overtighten and you should be good to go. Assuming the nozzle is not damaged.

 

Ray

 

Yes, I recall that red stuff.  It disappeared pretty fast.  I pull that nozzle off all the time as it gets blocked with gunk.

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6 hours ago, Corsairfoxfouruncle said:

Well good to know the wax worked a treat on my airbrush

 

Hi Dennis,

Very glad your problems were resolved. Also great to get the feedback on what worked.

Ray

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  • 1 year later...

I use Teflon "pipe thread sealant" paste for plumbing to fix any air leak for the nozzle or the nozzle cap, I apply it carefully with a tooth pick on the threads and wipe the excess, I just did it this morning as I had bubbles in my cup, now, no more. Cheap and works every-time needed (mostly after cleaning)

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