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1/72 Airfix Avro Lancaster Biplane and Avro Anson Little Brother


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Evening all.

Continuing on from last night post, we are looking at the 'hairdryer on steroids'  one of two items along with the aerofoil that make this Lancaster one of a kind, certainly back in the late 50's/early 60's

 

The item I refer to is the Budworth gas turbine, two of which were fitted in the fuselage just aft of the wing trailing edge, the two exhaust ports can clearly be seen on the port side;

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Both can be seen under the 'M' code on what seems to be the side of the port bomb bay door.

 

My initial comment of a 'hair dryer' is a litlle misleading, in fact the Budworth unit was set up to create suction through 0.005" slits in the aerofoil to 'draw' the airflow in thereby creating a 'boundary layer'. That is a very simplistic way of describing, the maths and theory that go with it are way beyond me but if number crunching is your thing there is info out there on it.

One of the jobs I did earlier was to fit what I thought were two bumps in the same position as the Budworth exhausts but on the starboard side, seen here fitted;

51385636195_656e597dcd_b.jpg

 

Seen here on the 1:1 scale kit just under the fuselage roundel;

51387719770_7344f8ebdd.jpg

 

After reading more material on PA474 at this time I don't think they are 'bumps' but air scoops for the Budworth units. Apparently, as so much modification work was carried out on PA474 that a dummy leading edge was fitted to the aerofoil and 10 flights undertaken  as such and this pinpointed a few problems, one of which was that as the airspeed reached and exceeded 110knots the Budworths failed to light due to the ram air effect of the scoops so the decision was made to remove them, so I need to do likewise. The new set is here;

51385973942_8c37bfd379_c.jpg

 

The holes are now flush with the fuselage. I believe these are the inlets for the Budworth units, I can find no other point of entry and the two pics above fit with the narrative I have read so my line in the sand is drawn here.😃

 

The Budworths used here are for serious purposes but when put to other uses, like fun and racing this is what you get;

51387003163_683d50870d_z.jpg

 

Each Budworth kicks out 60hp which for a cart that weighs nothing will most certainly put smiles on your face but it gives an idea of what is inside our Lancaster. However, this was not the only time a Budworth managed to get airborne, a little later the protoype Auster T7, VF655 was delivered to Marshalls of Cambridge to become the Marshall MA4, fitted with a Budworth unit behind the cabin and pulling air through holes in the wing,  200000 of them in fact to again, research laminar flow. Towards the end of the testing the plane was almost unrecognizable as an Auster and it was in this form that the test pilot, Brian Wass lost his life when it crashed near Cambridge. Here are a couple of pics, 1st the initial mod and 2nd the final modified airframe;

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This was another of my WIPs which can be found here;

With regard to the build the first thing I had to do was fit the bomb bay doors. From previous experience these can sometimes be a bit hit and miss so I was wondering what would be thrown at me.

The first order of the day was to remove the little hinge points that are there to model the bomb bay open, a few swipes with a blade and sanding stick sorted that. Next a dry fit was carried out and to my surprise it was a good fit so after fixing in place the second was fitted, this needed a little manipulation but nothing to grind your teeth over.

 

With the bomb bay doors now fitted it looks like the area where the exhausts are fitted had a reinforcing panel fitted so this was measured, cut and fixed, using thin plastic card;

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Now the holes were marked out for the exhaust tube and pilot drilled, it then dawned on me that I had no drill that was anything near 3.8mm, well I did but they were at work! Instead I used a tapered diamond file to gradually open out the holes until the brass tube slide in. Looking closely at pictures there seems to be a ring around the base of the exhaust tube so for this I grabbed some lead wire, rolled around the tube and cut to length;

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This was then slide over the now fixed exhaust pipes with Hot CA and we end up with these;

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What I think I will do next is just run some MrHobby Surfacer filler around the strengthening plate to soften the hard edges.

At the end of play we now have what looks like a Lancaster;

51385367664_bfda9b4aff_b.jpg

 

Ta ta for now and thanks for looking.

 

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It does indeed now look like a Lancaster. Those Budworths look interesting, and I imagine interesting describes the ride on one of those carts!

Nicely done exhausts too. Black wheelie bins are just rubbish. Give me a nice green recycling bin any day. 

Oh, and I just deliver the stuff. What people do with it after that has nothing to do with me, besides which, I'm miles away by then!

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  • 2 weeks later...

Today being the last Bank holiday of the year I decided to go out for the day for a change so I shot off down the M1/M69 in my trusty van listening to the Al Murry podcast, "We have ways of making you talk". Being all about WW2 it was good listening, there is so much I do not know about that conflict and much I thought I knew but didn't. What I did know however was that I had a good day at the Midlands Air Museum at Coventry, my main reason for the trip was to get some photos of the BP111A and Fairey Ultralight which I did. One thing I did notice was the sheer number of models on display, from where you walk in to pay right through the museum, I would recommend a visit just to see the models on display.

 

Anyway, my ramblings aside, I have managed to do some work on the Lancaster.

 

When looking at the post above a bar or rail can be seen running along the rear of the fuselage on both sides, whatever it is it was now redundant for the current trials. I can find no photographs of this set up, all I can find is this artwork;

51414169099_634ab9f530_c.jpg

 

Copyright, Garry R Fenton.

 

I have seen this set up before, I think it may have been on an Avro Lincoln and used for spraying water at the following aircraft but cannot be 100% sure, one thing I can be sure of the presence of my two rails, one either side, the top one being removed completely.

 

Making these was a simple affair, made from plastic strip with the protrusions cut and filed out, the length involved a bit of guestimation from the MK1 eyeball. The bottom edge has a rounded profile while the top is square;

51414104544_4806066cd2_c.jpg

 

Having glued these in place, pics later, I moved onto two panels that sit above the inboard engines at the wing/nacelle mating point where the undercarriage is fed through. The fit here was less than perfect;

51414106019_df91dbef54_b.jpg

 

Both were similar so needed the same trimming back, the problem seemed to be in the curved area that rounds from the leading edge to the side of the nacelle. Once hacked accordingly it all fitted OK but not yet glued in place, I first want to prime the old girl first and then painted  so fitting the undercarriage at the last moment. Saves knocking it off you see because I am clumsy that way.

 

The next area of concern is the flaps. This is not the fault of Airfix but Eduard, I have had to do some hacking and chiselling away of material to allow them to fit. The first issue was that when the Eduard parts were dry fitted together they seemed too long which gave me the headache of what to do next. I cannot alter the PE as it is already formed so all I could do was to alter the kit but not going too far that it seems obvious.

 

One area I could look at was the near the wing root the angled/triangular section could be cut back to fit giving me another mm or so. If I could do the same the other end I may just make it fit;

51413352791_0e404e45fc_c.jpg

 

Another problem was where the plastic had been removed to fit the the whole flap assembly a ridge was running along the length of the wing in the flap recess. I did not know whether to remove this ridge or not because I was aware the PE items may sit too low which they were already doing so I decided to put a packer along the back edge to raise it up enough to leave a little lip onto which the PE wing section of the flap will sit. Packers in place;

51414336930_ff252670dd_c.jpg

 

Taking me from this;

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To this;

51413354441_76ed169536_b.jpg

 

I am hoping I will be able to close the small gap towards the trailing edge later, if not a small piece of plastic feathered in should do the trick but it will mean more work.

 

While the glue was doing its thing once the flap assembly were in position I looked at the camera set up. PA474 was fitted with a camera fairing on the port wing, it can just be seen on some photographs, albeit not in the whole. I know only one was fitted from a magazine article that mentions only one being fitted on the port side, this was there to film the fuselage wing during the experiments.

 

I was not sure how \i was going to make this, initially I thought plastic but after a rummage through my scrap box i found this;

51413354266_9a52e4cfac_b.jpg

 

It is already the right shape, just a little cleaning up and reduction in size and job done. Never throw anything away, even lumps of dried milliput that you did not use because if I had thrown this it would mean another evenings work.

 

And on that happy note I will leave you till next time and have the camera housing looking a little more refined.

 

Cheers folks.

 

 

 

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  • 1 month later...

It has been well over a month since I last posted on this thread but I have not been idle, apart from landscaping the garden within our new fence I have been working on some other builds and it paid off handsomely. I never stop looking for new material to advance my builds, sometimes it comes too late but this time it has been found in good time. Both the Lancaster and the Anson,(remember that?) will benefit.

 

Although I have been doing some other builds I had not forgotten about PA474, most of the work involved giving it a undercoat and rectifying any blemishes which is a must as she carries a natural metal scheme so it needs to be as perfect as possible, no doubt you don't need to see a months worth of spray,sand, repeat.

 

One of the little jobs I did do was to fit the bomb aimers bubble to the front of the fuselage, you get a choice of two, the shallower version or the newer deeper version, the latter being fitted here;

51578625740_0344b010b9_b.jpg

 

This was fitted but showed up to be a little larger than in OD than fuselage it was to be mated to, there was not much I could do at this stage so it was fitted anyway. Also fitted was the small window that sits behind and under this bomb aimers perpex, again you have two choices, PA474 having the one on the right fitted, although by her time at Cranfield this seems to have been plated over with an aluminium skin. This will be sanded and painted over;

51576897582_8072247510_b.jpg

 

Also fitted was the camera housing on the port wing after being sanded and formed, again I have no clear picture of this so it is a best guesstimate.

After this a few squirts of primer on the seams and new turret fairings to check for any imperfections...of which there were many! Also some cockpit green was sprayed onto the cockpit.

51578393744_4fabe6594c_b.jpg

 

One other issue showed up on this spray/sand fest, when the PE flap components were fixed with extra thin CA it had the affect of melting the outer wing panel;

51576897117_8e758da27a_b.jpg

 

More filling.....oh joy!

 

 

One of the snippets of information I came across was an old fuzzy picture looking down the spine of PA474 from the rear of the cockpit towards the tail,(the only pic I have found thus far of the top of the fuselage)

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This picture seem to be of PA474 during the early trials with the wooden aerofoil fitted which is of no use to me what soever, but what is very useful is that it shows the escape hatch nearest the cockpit has been altered and now has a small square window. Was it for a camera or an observation window for a boffin? What I believe though is that it is no longer an escape hatch which means both are now gone, the farthest would be under the aerofoil and the one seen here converted to another use, would they spend money to change something that works perfectly well?

Interestingly, in the background can be seen Anson 1, G-AIPC with the latter aerofoil fitted.

So with this new found info the two current escape hatch's were removed and a new one made and fitted;

51578392654_23d6763e23_b.jpg

 

After some touch up of the undercoat to check for marks this is about as far as I can go on the main airframe,

I now need to think about the aerofoil that sits on top and makes this airframe so distinctive. To this end I have a picture of the dimensions of the aerofoil thanks to @T-21;

51577944328_6cc49b749f_b.jpg

The only measurment I do not have is for the Fence plate but I can make that by Mk1 eyeball, the main measurements are all there. All I need is a wing....oh look, what do I see before thee?

51578393459_52b7d27daa_b.jpg

 

The wing is a simple affair that needs any detail removing as the aerofoil on PA474 had no flying controls surfaces, it's official classification being 'RAE102 aerofoil', I think it is based on, but not being, a Folland Midge wing section.

So with this in mind a little more filing;

51577953978_b1b9ffcafa_b.jpg

 

Next post will be mainly about 'Annie', see you then.

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The poor old Anson has been left all forlorn on the bench while his bigger stable mate has hogged all the attention but from now on it will get a more equal share of bench time. The main reason as mentioned earlier is the unearthing of some great material that not only gives me an idea of the internals but also the airframe itself.

 

Internal details of research airframes can be scant and a lot of digging needs to be done just to find snippets, this is not surprising really considering the nature of the work carried out and when considers what ends up online now with a camera phone it is totally understandable.

 

The Flightpath PE, while being good in itself is based on the general internals of a navigation trainer so much of it is not relevant for this build but this pic gives me an idea of the internal layout of G-AIPC;

 

 

 

51577728566_72ec6af4d5_b.jpg

The wireless operators position has been taken over by a 50 tube Manometer, similar but smaller as that fitted to PA474, the navigators table has been upsurped by a F.24 camera facing rearward towards to manometer. Also visible(just) are the strengtheners in the roof of the fuselage above the manometer, while the detail is basic I can at least represent them in a similar basic manner. I still do not have any idea of internal colours so until/if I find evidence to the contrary it will be Cockpit Green.

Another obvious difference is the extension on the nose housing the Yawmeter, something I was not aware of until now, this photo also came to light showing this;

51577961188_f33e9d2483_b.jpg

While the probe is not very clear the position and shape of the boundary fence atop the fuselage is, this will be a great help when building this particular configuration. Also visible are some dark marks on the fuselage around the circumference of the boundary layer fence , no idea as yet as to what these are but maybe some cut down decals could be used to represent them. One golden nugget of info contained in this pic is the unusual layout of the registration on top of both wings, this is more common underneath and the size can be gauged too ticking another box.

 

Just when I thought it could get no better I came across this;

51576916362_78f651c435_b.jpg

A nice close of the nose and yawmeter arrangment....Christmas really has come early😃

 

This picture is also very interesting, it shows what I believe to be the last step in the evolution of a laminar flow wing on G-AIPC but as ever I am happy to be corrected on this. This looks like a more complicated set up, where I believed the struts were in line with the rear of the aerofoil looking at this picture it seems they were offset to starboard, the position where they fix to the main spar looks to be off centre and very close to the horizontal struts on the starboard side. I think after a period of reflection I am going to chicken out on this configuration and go for the one above🤪

 

Some corrective work is now needed as the Flightpath instructions had me remove the two lumps of plastic that represented the wing spars, these now need to be reinstated as the manometer and F.24 camera need to be fixed to. This was simply done with some scrap plastic;

51577943738_5e98d2d1b7_b.jpg

 

That is the only piece of plastic on show in this post.

 

Thanks for looking.

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One of the first things to do today was to upload my pics to Flickr which on any other day would be as simple as a few clicks and 'hey presto'. Not today.

 

It has fought me tooth and nail, failing to upload 70% of my pics and as you know with anything that has a micro chip in it you may as well fumble along because you will never understand why it happened. After checking the size of the pics didn't exceed some hidden limit, I tried loading smaller numbers which worked for a while then back to square one, go figure! Then I switched off my anti-virus, OK for a while then two steps back so in the end I used the old upload method which seemed to work. I will never while draw breath on this planet ever understand anything electronic and I doubt many of the whizz kids could tell me why either.

Bit like going to the doctors and being told you have a virus......yeah but which one and how do I deal with it.?

 

Fumble I did and here we are.

 

I have had a look at the the starboard side access door which sits at the end of the glazing, both forms are shown in these pics, the first showing a square window, the second the other type with a taper on it;

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As I am modelling the Anson as it was configured before the above photo was taken, ie, with the larger aerofoil but without the rigging behind it so I need to fit a small angled fillet in the door frame followed by a window pane made out of packaging clear plastic fixed in with PVA;

51625074121_22464880bc_b.jpg

 

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With this done onto other things.

 

After fitting, sorry, that should be 're-fitting' the main wing spars I thought it prudent to check that the fuselage closed up OK;

51625076566_f3bdc73571_b.jpg

 

Well that is no good is it? While it will be hidden because as we know the underside of the fuselage on this kit is too flat and needs building up a bit we do need to get it better than this.

The reason was that the bottom of the spar was stopping the fuselage closing up so a little sanding sorted that;

 

Once the fit was more acceptable it was time to work on the internals, this being the camera, platform and manometer, using the earlier pic as guidance.

The camera was simple affair, the side brackets being the fiddliest part, I have no idea what kind of camera it was, probably an old Hassleblad or some sort of early cine camera so mine is just a generic offering;

51625722789_4d6e279ff5_b.jpg

 

The manometer is made up of multiple tubes and this is represented by using the same grooved styrene sheet that I used on the radiators, two pieces back to back and some small angle stryrene to form the outer casing;

51624247557_6aa50779bd_b.jpg

 

Apart from looking like an old car radiator it is hard to make out any detail as everything is white and I left the flash on:banghead:

As a comparison, PA474 was fitted with something very similar but on a much more grand scale but as it will not be seen at all that one will not be made;

51626021080_08abd7eba4_b.jpg

The camera on this set up would be attached at the apex of the triangular frame work. Both of my latest creations were now fitted but no photo...yet again.

 

The glazing on this old kit has come in for much criticism and it is not hard to see why;

51624253407_82aeb1ae95_b.jpg

 

More later as Flickr is having a meltdown....😠

 

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I remember having Flickr problems like that years ago and never understood why.  If you're using your phone to take pics you could install the Flickr app and have it do the upload - I've never had a problem with that.

 

Al.

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7 hours ago, alhenderson said:

If you're using your phone to take pics you could install the Flickr app

That sounds like a good idea Al, I did not realize there was one and it makes a lot of sense too. Glad it is not just me having these issues because that is how it can feel sometimes with electronic items.

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Having had a tantrum with Flickr I tried clicking on the .com link as opposed to the /UK link and hey presto it works but from now on I will try the mobile app, I may be able to save what hair I have left.

 

Anyway, back on topic and Airfix transparencies, here are a couple more shots;

51625727454_616060564c_b.jpg

 

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As can been seen there seems to be the king of all sink marks plonk in the middle and the general appearance is of a frosty and frozen appearance thus making it of no use to man nor beast so in the future I will need to make a buck and do some drop vac forming. I have only done this a couple of times before so there will probably be lots of trial and error but what ever I make it will be better than this.

The side transparencies are better but they too will be replaced;

51625302363_1650b83a9a_b.jpg

 

This will be easier to replace being a flat piece of transparency and the loss of the framework relief is no loss either as it will be replaced with the Flightpath PE. You can see where the door access window has already been filed back to include the angle before I decided to not use this part.

It did however act as a template so it did have a use;

51625938060_071e8fc8a5_b.jpg

 

Once it had been cut out and whittled to size a test fit was in order, not the first as I continually did this while trimming to size;

51625304848_e0d79a8e68_b.jpg

 The advantage of replacing the kit offering is evident in this pic which can be both a curse and a blessing depending on your view point but on the whole will improve the end result.

At least I can see my little camera...😃

I am not sure yet how the new windows will be fixed in but as only relying on the thin contact between frame and window may not be strong enough when it comes to masking, what I will do in the near future is offer up the inside frame work to see if this will offer any extra support.

The other side was not so straight forward, the kit item was a poor fit so the replacement was made larger and gradually sanded to size;

51624279452_29be3903d4_b.jpg

 

The ironic thing here is that the kit windscreen section was actually a good fit but won't be used, some you win and some you loose.....🤔

 

For now the side windows will be put to one side so I can look at improving the unattractive plastic that is masquerading as undercarriage, I sense some brass and solder coming along soon.

More next.

 

Thanks for looking.

 

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Evening folks.

 

Tonight I will start by looking at a 1970's Airfix undercarriage;

51634935477_ed7123ede1_b.jpg

 

Not much to inspire here, no detail and over scale parts  so it is a prime candidate for a face lift.

 

I took much inspiration from @TheBaron 's Avro Anson build which I am still reading through, it is over 100 pages long but I am half way through. He put a great deal of work into the undercarriage and I have followed similar lines so I hope he doesn't mind.

 

The first order of the day was to adjust the fixing point in the undercarriage bay. As can be seen in the pictures below the undercarriage is fitted to the front main wing spar and as such sits further back than Airfix would have you believe, so before hack sawing brass this needs to be corrected. 

This is the Airfix way;

51624253007_c296222a92_b.jpg

It should fit approximately in line with mark 2 on the underside.

 

The attachment point sits well forward of the wing leading edge as seen in the pics below and being fixed to the main spar. Two large brackets with holes in them are fixed to the main spar, in turn supporting the undercarriage and engine support framework, this gives me a base to work from, the large bracket will be made from plastic and the rest will be brass.

One bonus with G-AIPC is that is does not have the extra framework around the Radius Rod so that removes much extra work which I know is not the easiest to replicate.

 

 

nhac-avro-anson-2015-vs-2016-4.jpg

 

So the first thing to do is get some decent drawings so I downloaded the old Avro Anson service manual which has some great drawings of the undercarriage which I shall use.

51635965128_62cf49206f_b.jpg

 

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That outlined in red is fixed to the main spar and that in green is the top part of the undercariage. The one thing I will not be doing is drilling the 4 holes in the top part of the undercarriage as I have no drill mount to hold the drill vertical so I can see trying to do so undoing any other work carried out and to be honest it will not be seen unless picked up off the table.

 

Working top to bottom the first item to make is the brakcet fixed to the main spar from good ole plastic, this will have holes in it, if I bugger this up I just make another but soldering takes much more planing and execution. One other point, it will not be as big as the 1:1 item simply because I don't think it will fit and won't be seen anyway. Made from thick sheet here are the first brackets highlighted in red;

51625942495_cc6faf7060_b.jpg

Bit of a clean up and we are away. The protrusion sits at the bottom.

 

Next is the square top section that should have holes highlighted in green. After the measurements were figured out a simple cut list was made up and all the relevant parts cut. I made a patty from Blu Tack, flattened it and assembled all the parts onto it, the good thing with this method is that you can depress individual items into the Blu Tack to get them centered and it holds the flux liquid in place nicely as it pools around the brass. After nearly three hours of work we had this;

51634917747_a4b949d9fc_b.jpg

All the joints are butt joined which should be more than man enough to hold up a little Anson as long I do not knock it about. The bottom section of tube is soldered in as one piece and then the center carefully removed, and if you are wondering, yes, some of the joints did work loose but were easily re soldered on. A big improvement on the kit item.

 

With the undercarriage main legs nearly done the main brackets were fixed to the main spar;

51641512731_1327410665_b.jpg

 

A little overscale but I need a bit of meat for the glue to bite into but I thinks that should work well enough.

 

 

Because the undercarriage was moving back so everything else needed to move back. The Airfix mounting block was removed and the underside of the undercarriage bay was altered accordingly by fitting styrene plugs to the front and removing a little to the rear;

51625310368_b91a01138e_b.jpg

 

51636390679_5754e2f7bc_b.jpg

The plastic inserts were filled and sanded flush.

 

That is all for now so thanks for tuning in.

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  • Head in the clouds. changed the title to 1/72 Airfix Avro Lancaster Biplane and Avro Anson Little Brother

Those new undercarriage legs are looking great! (Even if seeing them made me shudder all over again thinking about trying to keep all the bits in position during soldering! 😁)

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Lovely alighting gear. Good luck with the soldering. 

Dropped a couple of casks off at the Lord Harrowby on Thursday, and then went up the hill past your house.

I didn't see any steam escaping or hear rude words, so things must be okay 😆

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19 hours ago, TheBaron said:

Those new undercarriage legs are looking great!

Thank you, you build is a work of art in it's own right and showing what can be done with a little care and attention. On kits of this vintage the U/C is a prime choice for improvement and good old fashioned brass does the job admirably.

 

17 hours ago, Pete in Lincs said:

Dropped a couple of casks off at the Lord Harrowby on Thursday

 

Thanks Pete.

 

Cheers Pete for looking after my local, can you remember what you dropped off, dark, IPA or that floral smelling beer that has a very light colour? Dark and IPA for me please.🍻. Good to see you back at work too.

 

If the van is on the drive then I am home so feel free to knock on the door for a cuppa if that is the case, biscuits extra...😉

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Tea sounds good, Dark chocolate hob nobs would be acceptable too! Thanks for the invite. Small white van, yes?

I can't remember what we dropped off. There were new pump clips, so not one of the regular beers there.

Also, there was a new, younger guy there. Did the older chap sell up?

There were two of us in the 18 tonner and we had lots of drops to do (including the rugby club up the road) & pick ups to make so didn't have time to stop really.

It turned out to be a twelve hour day, finished at half six. Back in at half five Friday morning with early drops at March in Cambridgeshire.

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3 hours ago, Pete in Lincs said:

Small white van, yes?

Not anymore, small silver van with square tube on roof rack.

 

Yes, a younger couple have taken over the pub and done a good job too, it is a more lively place now with a good atmosphere. John and Linda, the previous landlords, said that if there was a second lockdown they would retire, and so they did. A nice couple too and I wish them the best.

 

How are you finding the long days? March is a decent run for you, all the way out to land of the swampy peoples....😃

 

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2 hours ago, Head in the clouds. said:

How are you finding the long days? March is a decent run for you, all the way out to land of the swampy peoples...

Ipswich is one of the Monday runs. As is Lowestoft or London. You get used to it. I like to get out and about rather than do the same everyday.

Things should be calming down now, before the crimbo parties etc start. Then it will get hectic again and quiet once more after new year.

I say should be, but last week was almost 52 hours. Shame the taxman takes his 20%.

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  • 3 weeks later...

Wow, have I had a busy few weeks, generally dealing with all the bricks that life throws at you but I have managed to get some time at the bench and it has born much fruit.

 

The first of those fruits was the work to PA474, I decided it was time to tackle the single item that makes PA474 so unique during it's time at Cranfield; the aerofoil. This is the most prominent part of the conversion work that carried out on this Lancaster, it carrying 3 iterations of an aerofoil during it's time on boundary layer research. The first aerofoil  was a constant chord wing with a constant sweep pf 45 degrees and was black in colour and had small pitot combs on one side and static pressure tappings on the other. Pitot combs are pretty much what it sounds like, a series of small pitots arranged in a comb configuration, static pressure tappings are small holes/slits flush with the skin of the aerofoil. Construction wise it was made of wood and metal.

51695565006_05aa22e11f_b.jpg

 

The second aerofoil was a tapered swept wing with a 1/4 chord 40 degree sweep and being the outer section of a Folland Midge wing, a large horizontal fence was fitted 17.5" above the fuselage to separate the test wing from the fuselage airflow and the disturbed air generated by the cockpit. This aerofoil also had a variable incidence up to 10 degrees off centre and 14.5 flying hours were conducted in this configuration.

 

The 3rd wing was a  more complex affair being a new design from Handley Page and being connected to the Budworth turbines, having a 42 degree sweep and having 7 suction zones. Suction was through a series of 0.005" span wide slits and then through small channels under the slits. Apparently an instrument traversing carriage was fitted that moved from 15% of chord to the trailing edge but I have found no pictures of this, pity that! 50 flights took place in this configuration and it is this that I am basing the build on.

 

I decided to build the fence first as the aerofoil is to be mounted to this. No measurements could be found so I just used photos and a straight line to get approximate dimensions, the shape would be from the Mk1 eyeball. Thin brass sheet was selected for this as it is more to scale and rigid than thin plastic card;

51696089344_7f65e769ca_b.jpg

 

Once the length was worked out the the general shape was transferred onto the brass sheet;

51696089249_40fb191dcc_b.jpg

 

Two holes of 1.2mm are drilled through the brass at a point where the aerofoil is at its thickest;

51696089144_a7d21f5ab7_b.jpg

 

Through these holes will pass two brass rods of 1.2mm dia that will locate both into the aerofoil and into the fuselage to give a more positive fixing, the aerofoil will be fixed by a smaller rod passing through the 1.2mm rod. Both were soldered into place;

51695686578_43194ce192_b.jpg

 

51696301235_7f03f27a62_b.jpg

 

51695686178_978a480527_b.jpg

 

Now I needed to cut the wing donated by the Red Arrows Gnat to size, from the diagram posted earlier we know that the measurement above the fence is 102.5" which in gentlemans scale is 36mm and 6 mm below the fence. The wing was marked and slashed accordingly;

51696300795_8c255d2d9b_b.jpg

 

Once cut the bottom section was marked where it was to be drilled to accept the pins;

51694615752_20d37498b4_b.jpg

 

Hole duly drilled and like wise in the aerofoil;

51695685128_52caa25e20_b.jpg

 

Now to glue them together with CA;

51694615867_66afb87aaa_b.jpg

 

51695683968_590d2e6746_b.jpg

 

All I can say is I am glad the holes lined up as there is not much room for error.

 

With that done I need to work on the bottom section trailing edge. As can be seen below the trailing edge extends beyond the trailing edge of the aerofoil and is vertical so to achieve this I will shroud the lower section in thin plastic sheet, first one side;

51695683473_b4183e80a9_b.jpg

 

Then t'other;

51696085719_234572a604_b.jpg

 

The leading edge was then trimmed to match the sweep and both leading and trailing edges blended.

 

Again, by looking at pictures and transferring known points I marked out the fuselage for the locating holes;

51694613412_fac6f78706_b.jpg

 

51696085489_017cdc9084_b.jpg

 

Since I made the aerofoil I have since deduced/found out/stumbled across...Ok, remembered, that aerofoil 2 and 3 are different sizes, aerofoil 2 (RAE102) is  just under 10feet in total whereas the aerofoil 3 is 13 feet in height. That is another 10mm or so but I am not going to do another aerofoil as (a) I don't have any more Gnat wings, (b) I am not going to buy another Gnat kit and (c) I don't give a Gnat..😆 and visually I don't think anyone will notice.            Hopefully.

 

That is all for now, next job on the Lancaster is to fit all the pipe work that can be seen on the aerofoil but the next post will be all about sexy Annie and her beating heart.

 

Thanks for looking.

 

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Evening you fine people of Britmodeller.

 

Faithful Annie and I have have been getting to know each other better and in particular her beating heart(s), the two Armstrong Siddeley Cheetah engines, The idea of what to do with them has been bouncing around my head since the start of the build, I was not sure whether to use the kit item (least favourable option) or do some scratch building. The downside of scratching some engines would mean I may have to also scratch the cowling covers and I did have some concerns about this seeing as I have no tools to form them. After much thought I have decided to go down the scratch build route.

 

Let us have a look at the kit offerings, bearing in mind it must be nearly as old as myself;

51180710296_26de059e3a_b.jpg

 

The first thing to jump out at me is the fact that this is a solid piece of plastic, no space being present between the cylinders and I think this would not be a convincing look on the finished model. The solid look continues to the cowlings, again, not easy to disguise and last, the breathers are horizontal, they should be vertical. So in short, that is just a picture of scrap plastic but airing on the side of caution, I am going to keep them in case I make a hash of the scratch building. Call me a coward if you must...😃

 

So where to start, I'll tell you, with a couple of BL755 cluster bombs from an old Airfix Harrier GR5 kit. I am amassing a motley selection of munitions as prototypes and research aircraft seldom carry them but you never know when one will come in handy.

 

Take one BL755;

51694615547_b07749f069_b.jpg

 

Drill two small holes next to each other in the nose section and insert two small lengths of styrene rod;

51694615312_c896b5edbd_b.jpg

 

Cut off the front nose section behind the breather pipes and put to one side.

 

Take a couple of thrust vector nozzle attachments from same said Airfix kit and taking one reduce in size(thickness) ;

51696087824_6a2f3fcfd8_b.jpg

 

and attach to nose section previously put to one side;

51694614712_037f59f8d8_b.jpg

 

This now forms the the main casing of the engine.

 

Now take some thin styrene card and two small hole punch's and spend a boring hour punching them out, 7 for each pile;

51695684248_47722088de_b.jpg

 

Glue them together starting and finishing with a smaller disc of the two and repeat 7 times....that's another hour gone forever 😉;

51695684133_eab10ba178_b.jpg

 

As you can see I have some spare, just in case....🤥

 

Now mark out the position of each cylinder;

51695684738_3aafbce527_b.jpg

 

And attach newly made non finned section of the cylinder casings, made from styrene rod;

51695684593_c67ba1d030_b.jpg

 

Then level each to same height and fix finned cylinder casing section;

51694618082_a18838d96a_b.jpg

 

Now add two rocker covers to each cylinder and allow to sit for a while;

51696302670_e7b8db346c_b.jpg

 

Next up is to trim the breathers a little and maybe the rocker covers then fit two pushrods to each cylinder from brass wire.

 

That is nearly two days of baking  scratchbuilding because there are two engines on an Avro Anson. I am aware of a some scale creep but I think once inside the cowling will look better than the kit item and it can be painted better to represent the real thing.

 

While on the subject of cowlings I think I have a cunning plan Baldrick. If I cut a piece of brass sheet to size and anneal it, then cut small triangular sections out so when formed it will look similar to the petals on an afterburner exhaust nozzle. Once formed I can then solder the joins and clean up and reform is out of shape. I will use the old kit engine/cowl offering as a buck. 

 

Well, that's the plan, whether it survives first contact is anybodies guess but it is worth a punt.

 

Thanks for looking.

 

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  • 3 weeks later...

Good evening folks.

 

I have had a strange few weeks which seems to be a running theme at the moment, not sure what normal is anymore, all around me were falling like ten pins with Covid and what do I end up with.......Vertigo! Needless to say I did not see that coming but when it hit me and I stood up I nearly took out the Christmas tree, after that my house became a pinball machine and I the pinball, not much fun but better than Covid.

On the plus side after several days I could sit so I thought it would be rude not to spend some time at the bench, sitting and modelling.

 

So onto modelling and all things Lancaster to start with.

 

Without doubt the stand out part of this aircraft is the aerofoil atop the fuselage, it isn't unique in this respect but it sits on probably the most famous plane in the UK, PA474. Most people will have seen this plane in it's warpaint but are probably unfamiliar with it's very important research work which it carried out for the best part of a decade and as such the aerofoil is without doubt the focal point.

 

I last left the aerofoil having got the basic shape and the boundary layer plate fitted, now it it is time to attempt all that trickery that adorns this item. To start with all I had was the couple of pics already posted here but I had no idea what I was looking at until........I found this;

51749076066_83769c0a8c_b.jpg

This for me is gold, I can now see how the system works in the X/Y axis and also how it is all connected but I have to fess up, I have not a ruddy clue how it actually works even though I have read the research article which I shall post on here (computer skills allowing) for yourselves to porous and maybe tell me in laymans  language how the magic works.

But what we have here is an ingenious track and pulley system driven by  2 motors, a Tensator motor at the top trailing edge to control vertical position of the hot film  and a motor in the base to control the chordwise position. This is done by a series of thin wires connected to small angled brackets ( seen just above and left of chordwise motor). This system thus allows the hot film to be positioned anywhere on the surface of the aerofoil, this hot film carrier actually sits in contact with the surface of the aerofoil.

 

The helipot is a potentiometer which is an instrument which is used for measurement of potential difference across a known resistance or between two terminals of a circuit or network of known characteristics. I am not sure if this moves, my gut feeling is that it does not. It can be seen here;

51749957195_2417bf4511_n.jpg

You can see why I feel it is fixed, that is some serious wiring there but it shows how the potentiometer gets it readings off the connections running up the trailing edge.....and no I am not even going to attempt this in 1/72..🤪

This is another view looking up towards the Tensator motor atop the aerofoil.

 

Where do you even start to dream up a set up like this :gobsmacked:  And all fixed to a wing thrapping along at 200mph.

 

From a modelling perspective I am hoping to build the basic framework that supports and positions the hot film carrier but in 1/72 this will challenge my methods of working as some of the items will be very small. The wiring will be missed as I feel that I could not find any thread thin enough to replicate the picture above but what I shall attempt are the wires that run vertically up the aerofoil.

All will become clear...he said!

 

First up are the two bars, one either side that supports the Tensator motor and a cuple of the brackets that carry the small wire that runs through the hot film carrier, simply made from brass rod;

51749228728_eecd04fcb5_b.jpg

 

Next up are the two bars that run up behind the trailing edge top to bottom, one (or both) of which support the potentiometer and cables. On these are three little 'blocks' for want of a better word, whose function remains unknown but need fitting. For this I jumped into my little box of plastic bits for a suitable scrap piece of plastic, never throw anything away, you never know when it will come in.

51748988206_98948f2067_b.jpg

From this box I repatriated one of those long, thin lengths of plastic and drilled a couple of 0.6mm holes;

51749636419_9c74e65a49_b.jpg

 

Then cut the centre piece into small squares around the holes;

51748159912_b8547cb238_b.jpg

 

Each one was the threaded on the bar;

51749636334_16f2ed6d12_b.jpg

51749867055_a557217e11_b.jpg

 

These two bars need to be fixed to the top of the aerofoil and the bottom of the boundary layer plate, however, while a dab of CA at the top would suffice I feel a more positive location method was need so two 0.6mm holes were drilled into the boundary layer plate. These were done free hand as i have yet to get an attachment to turn my little drill into a small pillar drill;

51749232888_21a0885d90_b.jpg

 

Ignore the bar that is fitted, several times I made and fitted something only to re fix, re make or omit altogether, here the bar is only glued and is central to the trailing edge. After straining my eyes looking at my reference pics I felt that a) there are two bars, b) they are not central and c) they are two different diameters.

 

After removing the bar in the pic above I needed to make the potentiometer that will fit on the biggest of the two bars. A small piece of scrap again was used and chamfered at one end, narrowed and two 0.6mm holes drilled at aprox 45 degrees to allow the potentiometer to sit square;

51749866350_1c23f4a37d_b.jpg

 

This was then cut to size and two different sizes of plastic rod used to finish this item;

 

51749866285_c65ab93022_b.jpg

 

Next up was a small bracket that seems to support the wires that control the hot film position and this is located roughly central on the aerofoil but it is small. This was made from an old piece of PE that was just the right shape and size;

51749232033_0e1d5f4df5_b.jpg

I have only seen this on the port side.

It was then all brought together;

51749634544_d5daf9af4e_b.jpg

51749634689_c274a86089_b.jpg

 

I am aware that the potentiometer has put on a pound or two, having grown in size a little but I could not get it any smaller but at least it represents what I am trying to show. Other work that was done included the two angled bars at the front of the support bars at the top, these are supported by two very small brass blocks. Also there is a crossbar at the rear top to represent the Tensator motor.

 

Still more to do.

 

 

Next was the two traverse bars at the bottom of the aerofoil on top of the laminar flow plate, this was simply done by cutting two lengths of thin brass rod and turning up each end to lift off the surface;

51749864605_9cd37fae48_b.jpg

 

These are to be fixed with CA but not too much as it will be very visible, usually I would drop a bit onto the table and use a tooth pic to grab the CA, this what my table looks like;

51749632989_1cd2ba27a1_b.jpg

The downside to this method is that I keep putting my arm in the dollop of CA and being a person of Neanderthal hair proportions it always ends in tear...literally. So I thought I would drag myself into the 20th century;

51749230438_426583ebef_b.jpg

 

Apply CA to the steel bar and use the applicator and when you finish scrap, sand or burn off the old CA and your good to go; plus I can position it so I don't put my hairy arm on it. Win win.

 

Traverse bars now fitted;

51749864340_2eddfd14dc_b.jpg

 

I now had to replicate the small two fingered item that can be seen in the middle of the aerofoil and fit one top and bottom on the traverse bars. To do this another raid on the spare PE tin resulted in these, old tie down rings for a Sea King ;

51749632739_941bd2ccb5_b.jpg

 

Some were cut off, the gold fingers were bent 90 degrees and the hoop rounded so it will (hopefully) sit snug on the traverse bars;

51748985156_d97b7717b0_b.jpg

 

And fixed with a little CA;

51749229968_b5356d527d_b.jpg

 

51749864100_2884907006_b.jpg

 

51749229838_4a7cb3fbeb_b.jpg

 

Connected to these will be some draw wire made from the smallest Van de Rosten thread I have but that will be near the end.

 

As promised for you boffins amoungst us, the actual report;

51748467877_089411425c_b.jpg

51749544593_ff74a0063a_b.jpg

Enjoy!

 

As I said before, I made many changes as I went so the above description is compressed but to give an idea there are about 2 days work in the aerofoil, why can't I just build a normal kit OOB? 😉

 

Hope you enjoyed that post, more later and thanks for tuning in.

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After the eye straining and frustrating fine detail work involved the making of the aerofoil just a few small jobs remained before thinking about paint.

 

This work centered around the control surface linkage rods, the kit items are plastic and look a little clunky and being in prominent positions I felt that a simple upgrade would work well;

Aileron;

51749231483_d2b5020a8e_b.jpg

 

Elevator;

51749231413_2280dc73ea_b.jpg

 

Simply cutting away the link rod and replacing with a piece of brass rod resulted in a more scale look;

51749231238_06474bbf6e_c.jpg

 

51748986311_42965f887d_c.jpg

 

Another little minor detail that is easy to miss is the position of the windscreen cleaner washers, those on PA474 and later Lancasters were wider apart and two, what look like aerials, sat in front of each.

Again, another very simple remedy, cut off the offending items and reposition along with drilling a small hole in front of each to accept a small whip aerial made from thin brass rod;

51749865880_d47598e258_b.jpg

 

With that little job there was only one more construction job outstanding, well sort of, it would be outstanding if I had not done it earlier. The propellers.

You get two choices with the kit, the De Havilland design with the more pointed tip or the more rounded tip design from Hamilton. PA474 has the latter so these were assembled with no problems. These units also have one of the few splashes of colour found on PA474 and are very prominent, being painted a plum/cherry red colour. This was achieved by trial and error by playing with different colours, primarily blue,red and yellow until I had the right shade , to my eyes anyway!

51383871367_581e6b6e60_b.jpg

 

I can look at painting the main airframe. During the build I have continuously resolving issues as I have come across them as we all know that NMF shows up every scratch and nic and while I probably have not found all of them I hope I have done enough. 

When spraying NMF the first thing you have to decide is which base colour/primer you are going to use as each one will give a different affect on the finished scheme. Gloss black will give a high shine

affect where as Grey will be less so. Other colours can be used and that is what I am going to try, not sure if this is the right decision but I want to break out a little and improve my painting skills so 'in for a penny, in for a pound'.

PA474 had this finish for many years and 3 years of that service was in the deep heat of Africa mapping that continent, then it moved to Cranfield and spent a further several years in service there. The panels around the engines seem to have the greatest variation of shades and sheens which is not surprising really when one considers she was about 20 years old opon retirement outliving almost every other Lancaster. Also, the reason for her retirement was due to the engines being time expired and no doubt the panels would have been open much more often towards the end just to keep her going.

51387719770_0d5a6206d5_o.jpg

 

51695565006_05aa22e11f_b.jpg

 

The above picture highlights this point, the contrast with earlier pics from it's service in Africa when the scheme was newer is very noticable. It will also allow for some gentle weathering which is not something I get much opportunity to do as most test aircraft are kept clean to ensure all test readings are not affected in any way.

 

The model has already had a base of grey primer which as mentioned earlier has had many touch ups. The control surfaces seem rather nuanced so to achieve this I shall spray dark Gray between the high points, also, the main panel lines will get the same treatment but I am only doing one pass as the paint does not want to be too thick otherwise it will never blend in. Moving a bit to left of center some of the larger panels will have an infill of white, again, only a single pass of the airbrush. To finish this madcap attempt of pre-shading the area around the engines will be given a light coat of MRP rust. I have done some tests on my paint mule and the one thing this taught me was not to go to heavy on the pre-shading, especially the white.

Here is the patchwork quilt of pre-shading;

51748158087_1b2556cdd0_b.jpg

 

51749865150_caffb493ae_b.jpg

 

51748986166_c99a1e1f8a_b.jpg

 

As can be seen the white is applied more in a mottle effect rather than complete coverage of the panel.

 

Next update will see the NMF applied.

 

Cheers.

 

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  • 2 weeks later...

Well, with my Christmas day duties carried out successfully, I now find myself all alone again on Boxing Day with the good lady at work looking after those whom end up in hospital so now may be a good time to do an update of the few days before Christmas. With Gregory Porter playing on Spotify and a cuppa on the coffee table lets crack on.

And it's raining....perfect.😃

 

After adding all the various pre-shadings the whole airframe was given a rub down with 3400 micro cloth and water so we have a smoothness a baby would be proud of.

The starting point was to give the whole airframe a coat of Alclad Airframe Aluminium and build up from there. Once this was done I looked at the various nuances that are on this aiframe starting with the inner starboard wing which has a strange wear pattern on it;

51775266442_675c14c339_n.jpg

 

Most obvious is the dark square/access panel then the pattern on the rear section of the inner wing. As far as I am aware this only occurs on the Starboard side, if it is an access panel then that may explain the excessive wear on that area of wing.

 

The box shape was done first with Tamiya Dark Sea Grey which seemed about right if you look at the anti glare panel in front of the canopy which is a worn black;

51749230788_9f9555a5fe_b.jpg

When I have finished with masking tape on a particular model I do not throw it if it is a good size and shape, I just stick it to my lamp and it works a treat on NMF as it has lost much of it's adhesive. You know when it is time to throw it, it falls off the lamp...😄;

51749633604_216e033d19_b.jpg

 

Admission time, I am not a confident user of the airbrush and the thought of doing this in its entirety filled me with trepidation so I decided to limit any freehand work...yep, I know...🐓

 

Anyhow, how to work around this little issue. After searching around the house I came across some of that non slip matting for motor cars;

51748157737_f8e8177285_b.jpg

 

A fairly random pattern which can be used as a template. This was done in another shade of Alclad, Dull Aluminium;

51749230598_a0ac3e66f6_b.jpg

 

After removing the template I then used Alclad Stainless Steel to freehand some rectangular rows;

51776298118_65256df684_b.jpg

 

Probably not my best work, another period of contemplation me thinks on how to soften it down a bit. This shot also shows to good effect the tonal variation I was hoping to achieve with the various pre-shading colours, the port outer looking a little brown still but more work to do there. The aileron and port wing panels looking good. I feel there is no right or wrong with NMF as any movement of the subject either in the real photos or the kit itself can give a totally different look and it could quite possibly drive you mad chasing that particular rainbow.

51776937205_f72a946aa8_b.jpg

 

51776298243_9af7d95bcc_b.jpg

 

51776052876_e9c09e3765_b.jpg

 

51776938275_d0e60d1bb9_b.jpg

 

With the base colour done there are two fuselage strengthening bands on the fuselage, one near the rear of the cockpit and one as seen above. This was simply masking off and spraying another dark shade of Alclad, Magnesium this time.

 

On many of the pics of PA474 the engines panels show the greatest variation due to dirt and grease adding to the patina of the aluminium. For this I decided to mask off a different panel on each engine alternating inside and out with one colour each time;

51776692934_8bf32b9303_b.jpg

 

51776298998_151814d1f6_b.jpg

 

When I looked at how many panels are on each engine I realized it would take an age to do all four, masking each one for a different panel so I threw caution to the wind and tried freehand again;

51776692399_f829e1b854_b.jpg

 

Not the best pic really but it is visible when not in the world of Ant Man, the radiator throat and rear nacelle panel being just visibly different, mind you, my crappy disco lighting doesn't help...!

 

As can also be seen in the pic I have given the flap internals a blast of Tamiya Cockpit Green now the main NMF is down.

 

I have had the undercarriage painted for a while now so felt now would be a prudent time to fit it so as to keep the airframe off surfaces thereby avoiding scratches. It all went together well although the main strut assembly that carries the main wheel was a tight fit and only just slipped in from the top. With this done I could also fit the panel that has to be left off to fit the U/C and thereby continue with painting/weathering;

51776298583_95808723e4_b.jpg

 

While licking up the ancillary equipment the radiator flaps were also fitted. Now I am not sure if I did right or not but when I looked at photographs I could not see these sitting below the underside line of the panel to the same extent that Airfix would have you fix it, it is more subtle;

51777058415_26a805cdb6_b.jpg

(copyright) Lincs Aviation Heritage.

 

51776298503_f64f29f30c_b.jpg

 

With this in mind I chopped off the rear most locating peg and fitted them more flush;

51776937390_8d82d82b14_b.jpg

 

At this scale I think I may get away with it but I wish I had noticed it sooner then I could have lowered the profile of the rear section just above the cooler vent and slightly right. This is the one that got away..😃

 

Leaving the painting for a while I decided to revisit the aerofoil, this time concentrating on the section below the boundary layer fence. This looks to be a wood like colour, it may even be wood so I decided to give it a base coat of brown paint and weather it up with AK pencils trying to replicate this;

51387672350_ae92ce5b08_o.jpg

 

This is where I am up to;

51775235517_68d1b3da37_b.jpg

 

I want to try and get the faded sections right, similar to that seen on WW1 fabric covered aircraft and seen in the above pic but that is for another day.

 

Enjoy your Boxing Day.

 

Gary

 

 

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