Jump to content

Finemolds and Hasegawa 1/72 F-4E Phantom II - the Long Nose saga - Completed!

giemme

By giemme
in Work in Progress - Aircraft

 Share

Recommended Posts

hendie Completely Obsessed Member

hendie

Posted
Posted
On 8/2/2022 at 12:58 PM, giemme said:

I buy Model Master paints form a Polish online store, they seem to have them in stock quite regualrly.

 

you may want to stock up on what you can get now Giorgio. MM were my goto brand for years but Rustoleum decided in their infinite wisdom to discontinue the line so I'm switching to Mr Color

 

Nice canopy work. Tough luck on the glue seepage but you seem to have made a good recovery

 

 

 

  • Thanks 1
  • Sad 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites
giemme Blabber Mouth

giemme

Posted
  • Author
Posted
On 08/08/2022 at 21:55, Fritag said:

PE + resin + UV = success.  By the looks of things. Don’t want to encourage you to go pinging-off the etch or owt G - but how secure is the bond do you think? compared with say gator’s grip and cyano.  Asking for a friend…..

Now now: I did try some (gentle ) poking and prodding and the PE parts held up quite well. But inquiring minds want to know, so I devised a few tests: I did start with the toughest, which was to glue a PE leftover to a clear part and have at it with a Dremel sanding disc, to make the PE flush with the transparency:

 

resin_test1

 

I sanded one edge whilst holding the canopy and the PE together with a tweezer, and it worked. Then I tried holding the part only by the plastic and leaving the PE "free" (if you get my gist), and the PE just popped off:

resin_test2

 

This, as I said, is the toughest test possible, and TBH I had the same happening with PE parts glued with GG and CA. So I did another test, to verify the level of adhesion of the clear resin on both PE and styrene (again a clear part). Here:

resin_test3

 

resin_test4

 

Once cured, I tried to remove them using a sharp blade: they both came off, quite easily from the PE fret, with notably more effort from the plastic

resin_test5

 

So the weak link is resin on PE, I concluded. Not completely happy with that, I tried with CA on PE:

resin_test6

 

Again, with the help of a sharp blade it came off, but opposing more resistance than the resin:

resin_test7

 

Conclusions: I would still rely on CA+GG for general gluing of PE parts to plastic, but for the clear parts, I think the resin is a viable alternative.

 

 

On 08/08/2022 at 22:54, The Spadgent said:

Glad you’re back at it dear boy. Hope you had a splendid holiday. ☀️ I come in here to get away from clear resin and what do I get? 🤣🤣🤣  looking fantastic. 
 

Johnny

I did Johnny, thank you! :thumbsup: And thanks for the praise - the resin drift wasn't intended to bother you :winkgrin:  :D  :D  

 

On 09/08/2022 at 10:37, mark.au said:

Tell your mate that he need to be thinking more about painting than resin…

 

Fabulous work on the Phantom, the paintwork is exquisite.

 

Cheers Mark, thank you :thumbsup: 

 

On 09/08/2022 at 11:18, corsaircorp said:

Well done Mister G !!

The canopy is amazing !!

Great surgery indeed !!

Sincerely.

CC

Thank Alain, glad you like it! :thumbsup:

 

On 09/08/2022 at 12:51, PlaStix said:

Hi Giorgio. Hope you are well. Fantastic work on the canopy. Lovely job! :thumbsup:

Kind regards,

Stix

Cheers Stix, thank you! :thumbsup:

 

On 09/08/2022 at 13:08, hendie said:

 

you may want to stock up on what you can get now Giorgio. MM were my goto brand for years but Rustoleum decided in their infinite wisdom to discontinue the line so I'm switching to Mr Color

 

Nice canopy work. Tough luck on the glue seepage but you seem to have made a good recovery

 

 

 

Thanks for the heads up, Alan - I'll have a look :thumbsup2:  And thanks for thepraise too :thumbsup:

 

On 09/08/2022 at 13:13, Spookytooth said:

Well played sir, a very nice rescue of the canopy.

Damn good what you can get nowadays.

 

Stays safe.

 

Simon.

Thanks Simon! :thumbsup: More rescue needed, see below.... :wall:

 

Where were we? Front canopy for the Hasegawa kit, right?

 

Well, I'm an idiot. 

 

Remember the back canopy I tried to modify in my last post, which got damaged and replaced with the FM one? Guess what? It wasn't the back canopy, it was the front one! :banghead: :wall: 

 

I had removed it from its sprue a long time ago, and put in the box where I keep all the loose bits of the build, and when I retrieved it I took for granted it was the back one.... which instead was still happily hanging form its sprue! Long story short, I had to replace it again by cutting off the corresponding part form the FM whole canopy:

 

hase_frontcanopy1

 

Which also meant I was forced to replace the hinges with the method I had discarded for the back canopy - aaargh! 😰

Using a mix of resin and CA, it sort of worked:

hase_frontcanopy2

 

hase_frontcanopy3

 

I then glued on the PE bits, again with clear resin

hase_frontcanopy4

 

hase_frontcanopy5

 

and dipped it in Aqua Gloss. While that was curing, I did some detail painting: wingtips

hase_wingtips1

(there's an annoying ridge there I need to get rid of...)

tail chute area

hase_tailchute5

 

hase_tailchute6

 

(to be completed with washes, weathering etc)

hase_tailchute7

 

Then I remembered I had to scratch build the Auxiliary Intakes Doors; so I quickly cut them out from 0.3 and 0.5mm styrene sheet, using my Curio:

hase_auxdoors1

 

Glued together with TeT

hase_auxdoors2

 

And finally added a tab to facilitate the positioning

hase_auxdoors3

 

Time to deal also with the hanging out bits: drop tanks 

hase_droptanks1

 

As you can see, they'll require some sanding (already started), but I also intend to replace the lateral seam joint with something more prominent, as it is on the real thing.

 

Then I assembled the outer pylons, including the launchers and their PE parts

hase_pylons1

 

I still need to prep all the undercarriage doors, the U/C legs and wheels, and the weapons. But I might start with posing decals in between all of those things.

 

That's it for this update, all comments welcome.


Ciao

  • Like 19
Link to comment
Share on other sites
hendie Completely Obsessed Member

hendie

Posted
Posted
2 hours ago, giemme said:

Well, I'm an idiot. 

 

Welcome to the club Giorgio!  Your membership card is in the post. :D. I wouldn't worry to much - there's lots of us here and we have idiots ranging from your average dunderheid to the esteemed and exhalted complete numptie with all flavors in between.  I tend to hang around in the middle but have been known to wander to either extreme on occasion.

 

regarding to resin/plastic bond: I think the resin bonds better when there's a degree of roughness to the plastic creating more of a mechanical bond.  

I tried using some resin as a filler last week and was almost at the polishing stage when the resin popped out.  It could have been the particular plastic as that did have a waxy feel to it, but as we're talking two entirely different material sets here you're never going to get anything other than a mechanical bond, so the rougher the better.

 

Nice work, and lots of it - looks like you'll be busy over the next few days sorting all that out

 

 

 

 

  • Like 2
  • Thanks 1
  • Haha 6
Link to comment
Share on other sites
Terry1954 Completely Obsessed Member

Terry1954

Posted
Posted
9 hours ago, hendie said:

Welcome to the club Giorgio! 

 

 I second that Giorgio, we have all been there! I'm sure you will get that sorted, meanwhile what a fantastic progress update on many fronts.

 

Loving those side mounted sidewinder launch rails and nice work on the scratch built auxiliary doors.

 

Terry

  • Like 2
  • Thanks 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites
TheBaron Completely Obsessed Member

TheBaron

Posted
Posted
20 hours ago, giemme said:

Conclusions: I would still rely on CA+GG for general gluing of PE parts to plastic, but for the clear parts, I think the resin is a viable alternative.

 

I would agree with you on this completely Giorgio, I don't find resin likes smooth metal at all, but have switched to it for clear parts, finding even on thin PETG it works nicely.

 

Alan (of course 😁) has the correct technical description of what I've only been feeling my way round as a process:

17 hours ago, hendie said:

regarding to resin/plastic bond: I think the resin bonds better when there's a degree of roughness to the plastic creating more of a mechanical bond.  

Those PE section on the transparency look wonderfully sharp in structural terms: this cavalcade of detail just gets better and better! 👏

  • Like 3
  • Thanks 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites
giemme Blabber Mouth

giemme

Posted
  • Author
Posted
On 17/08/2022 at 00:55, hendie said:

regarding to resin/plastic bond: I think the resin bonds better when there's a degree of roughness to the plastic creating more of a mechanical bond.  

I tried using some resin as a filler last week and was almost at the polishing stage when the resin popped out.  It could have been the particular plastic as that did have a waxy feel to it, but as we're talking two entirely different material sets here you're never going to get anything other than a mechanical bond, so the rougher the better.

Thanks for that Alan, it makes a lot of sense :thumbsup: 

 

On 17/08/2022 at 10:31, Terry1954 said:

 

 I second that Giorgio, we have all been there! I'm sure you will get that sorted, meanwhile what a fantastic progress update on many fronts.

 

Loving those side mounted sidewinder launch rails and nice work on the scratch built auxiliary doors.

 

Terry

Cheers Terry, thank you :thumbsup: 

 

On 17/08/2022 at 14:46, Brandy said:

You plonker, Rodney!

 

Glad I'm not alone in having those "why on earth did I do that?" moments.

Nice save though!

 

Ian

You're definitely not alone, Ian :D  And thank you :thumbsup: 

 

On 17/08/2022 at 18:02, keefr22 said:

 

I wonder if Giorgio gets that reference? :)

 

K

Definitely too British for me (I googled it and "only fools and horses" came up; I heard of that show, but never actually watched it... :shrug: )

 

On 17/08/2022 at 18:19, TheBaron said:

I would agree with you on this completely Giorgio, I don't find resin likes smooth metal at all, but have switched to it for clear parts, finding even on thin PETG it works nicely.

 

Alan (of course 😁) has the correct technical description of what I've only been feeling my way round as a process:

Those PE section on the transparency look wonderfully sharp in structural terms: this cavalcade of detail just gets better and better! 👏

Cheers Tony, thanks for the corroboration  - and the praise! :thumbsup:

 

On 17/08/2022 at 19:37, Spookytooth said:

Good to see that I am not the only idiot on this site. LOL.

 

Nice work as usual Giorgio, looking forward to the next instalment.

 

Stay safe.

 

Simon.

Thanks Simon, much appreciated! :thumbsup: 

 

On 17/08/2022 at 21:52, The Spadgent said:

Excellent progress G. Those rails do look rather crisp and the canopy is all sorted now so no worries about little mistakes. We all make them. 😶‍🌫️
Beautiful work as always. 

 

Jont.

Thanks Johnny :thumbsup: Sometimes I could do without mistakes, even little ones..... :D  

 

On 21/08/2022 at 05:37, Cookenbacher said:

Details upon details upon details - amazing as always Giorgio!

Cheers Cookie, glad you approve of :thumbsup: 

 

Alright, here's some more detailing: drop tanks sanded, polishes and rescribed

 

hase_droptanks2

 

As I mentioned earlier, I wanted to do something for the side longitudinal joint, looking pretty anorexic in the kit offering; I decided to use it as a guide to scribe a seam for its replacement, in the form of 0.5mm brass pipe:

hase_droptanks3

 

One done, one to do: 

hase_droptanks4

 

The brass pipe was glued in with CA; once set, I went along its length with GG (by brush), to reinforce the bond. Here are the two of them done

hase_droptanks5

 

With those ready for paint, I went on with U/C bits: front strut received some PE bits

hase_uc1

 

Front door #1: I glued in the clear lens and painted it from the back, using a Molotow Chrome pen

hase_uc2

 

Awful pic from the front, sorry

hase_uc3

 

For some reason, the chrome is no longer chrome, it looks just some sort of silver; has anyone ever had this happening with a Molotow pen?

 

Anyway, the kit sport an additional clear part for this little door, while Eduard's PE fret proposes a replacement, shown here

hase_uc4

 

Now, the PE part is obviously more detailed, but hasn't got the landing light. Plus, that detail is going to be invisible once in place, so I opted for keeping the kit part.

I glued it in with TeT and painted with the Molotow Chrome pen again

hase_uc5

 

Not much of a pic there, hopefully next one should show it better

hase_uc6

 

As you can see, the landing light is quite a relevant feature here.

Front door#2: this is made of three parts - inside, outside and blade antenna

hase_uc7

 

Not much of a blade antenna, right? More a squarish chunk of plastic. So I reshaped it a bit (again, Eduard supplies this and other antennae in the form of PE part, but even at this scale they just look to flat and thin to me)

hase_uc8

 

Then of course there was this big hole that would show up on a frontal view

hase_uc9

 

So I riveted a small chunk of brass sheet, shaped to fit the recess, flipped it around and glued in place (with the help of a blob of blue tack on the back, to prevent it from falling inside that pocket)

hase_uc10

 

In between gluing/setting times, I removed the seam lines from the wing tips and repainted the black areas, because I noticed on some pics they were different from what I did initially

hase_wingtips2

 

This round panel on the hunch received a base brownish color, to be properly weathered later

hase_hunchantennae1

 

 

That's it for the day, all comments welcome

 

Ciao

 

  • Like 17
Link to comment
Share on other sites
The Spadgent Completely Obsessed Member

The Spadgent

Posted
Posted
On 24/08/2022 at 22:27, giemme said:

For some reason, the chrome is no longer chrome, it looks just some sort of silver; has anyone ever had this happening with a Molotow pen?

Yes. My one has gone exactly the same. It’s almost as if the chrome has curdled. No longer smooth like a mirror but split Ito a strange emulsion of oil and silver bits.  Feels like time has degraded it. Like me. 🤪

The details are looking spot on regardless dear boy. 100% fantastic. 
 

Johnny

  • Like 1
  • Thanks 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites
gota New Member

gota

Posted
Posted
On 24/08/2022 at 23:27, giemme said:

For some reason, the chrome is no longer chrome, it looks just some sort of silver; has anyone ever had this happening with a Molotow pen?

 

The ink within the tip goes bad, pull the tip out and you should find some working ink, you'll see the difference in consistency.

  • Thanks 2
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing
×
×
  • Create New...