Yamaha XV1000 Virago Tamiya 1/12th

[KelT]

This thread comes with a warning or two: I'm not the fastest of modellers so you'll need patience; Secondly I am still very new to all this and trying to climb the learning cliff so be forgiving, please.

 

This is my first bike build. I used to own one of these so I am excited to give it a go.

 

 

Mine was the XV1100 with a respray in pearlescent black, all the markings were removed apart from those etched into the actual casings and a set of Harley pipes rather than the overly chunky standard ones. The pipes were a mistake since when I cranked it over to the right they hit the tarmac and I learned to be very careful but it was a joy to ride and I in fact set of for my trip around Australia on her. A very comfortable bike and a pleasure to ride.

 

I'd love to recreate her as she was in the picture but I don't have the skills to make the alternative pipes, I shall try and get as close as possible with the rest though.

 

I wasn't going to do a WIP thread since this was just supposed to be a quick OOB build as a break from the Swordfish I'm currently waiting for paint supply issues with but I was taking a couple of pictures for my own reference and figured WTH might as well. I'd already started so don't have any complete sprue images and therefore stole some from here: ( https://pikabu.ru/story/moe_khobbi_tamiya_yamaha_xv_1000_virago_4817558 ) just for completeness. I don't read Russian but the guy did a great job, I aspire to do half as well.

 

 

 

I tried using my new (ultra cheap) airbrush to spray the frame using Tamiya X-18 semi-gloss black. Previously I've always hand painted everything and I have to say, personally speaking, I don't enjoy the airbrush. Besides the palava of setting everything up and cleaning afterwards I found that for me it de-personalised the building process. When I paint I get to relax and learn every little intricacy of the plastic, with the airbrush I'm just trying to get even coverage on the model and as little as possible on everything else. So I have decided to return to the old fashioned hairy stick with perhaps the exception of the actual tank and guards which will require a finish I may not be capable of by hand.

Anyway I wasn't happy with the Tamiya X-18 since it didn't have the deep heavy paint shine that the actual metal parts do, so I went over it by hand with Vallejo 70.861 Glossy Black. I enjoy hand painting Vallejo but Glossy black it wasn't. So I laid a couple of coats of future over it and then some hand buffing to finally get a shine I could see my face in.

It's hard to tell from the photo, I'm very pleased with it though.

 

 

I thinned out the number plate to make it look more like a number plate and less like a box of Black Magic (no photo since it was blurry).

I thinned out the disk brakes, so they look less like a couple of dinner plates and drilled the holes, I'm not brave enough to attempt the slopping slots and I figured they'd make the plastic overly fragile. I removed the four circular pin holes on the rear of the disks and added some scoring using a dremel wire brush. The scoring is perhaps a little deep in the photo, it doesn't look too bad in reality but I may sand them shallower prior to painting.

 

 

 

I'm enjoying this kit so far, it's also my first Tamiya kit and I'm finding the plastic a little different to work and the fits a little less precise than I am used to but it is an old kit so I have no complaints so far.

 

Edited April 23, 2021 by KelT

[KelT]

I got a little bit more done, actually it felt like a lot until I came to update this thread then it seems trivial.

 

I removed the Yamaha insignia from the tank and assembled it, the fit was not great and there were two imperfections (image #2) in the plastic where the locating pins on the inside of the tank were molded (I used Mr Surfacer 1k). In the absence of any Tamiya polishing compound I used that other really well known brand; Colgate Total 12 Hr protection with minty stripe. I think the stripe really helped as the results were quite pleasing.

 

 

I drilled out the left hand rear peg as it isn't a solid bracket on the original. I also reshaped both pegs since none of the footpegs were the old fashioned 1970's blocky type on my own bike.

 

 

 

I removed the chrome from the front and rear guards using bleach, I have never dealt with chrome before and I was amazed at how effective the bleach was at removing it. I painted up the rear light and indicators too using AK Clear Red RC503/ Clear Orange RC506. Well in truth I didn't actually paint them rather I dunked them and then removed the access with a cotton bud. I've not done any clear paint before and I was quite impressed with the results, the red took two dunks.

 

 

 

I didn't realise when I moved over from the Aircraft thread that there'd be a completely different group of people here, it's like changing forums. To clarify, I am very new to this hobby still and learning slowly so if anyone has any helpful advice, constructive criticism etc. I am always happy to hear it.

 

I am enjoying this build so far but finding the whole bike thing to be far less forgiving then the other models I have built, a small scratch can ruin a part and the extra care needed is challenging me. Looking ahead the only concern I have so far is the two side-panels for the battery housing, I intend to keep the original chrome as far as possible at this point since I do not have the whole Alclad setup, it also sounds overly complex and intimidating. I will need to try and chrome up the two panels though and all I have for the job is a liquid chrome pen which I intended to use only for small touch up jobs. It seems to work well but I've found that the bleach does not remove it so I'm worried about how it will look over a bigger area and my ability to remove it if things go awry.

 

 

 

 

 

 

Edited April 25, 2021 by KelT

[Stef N.]

Liking the toothpaste tip.👍 For hand painting chrome the best I have found is Vellejo's Metal Colour. A little bit pricey at first but a little goes a long way. A couple of light coats works well on the smaller parts. Good luck on your build.

[KelT]

Thanks for the info Stef N. I put in a large order just two nights ago and I looked at the Vallejo Metal Colour but in the end it was just another one of many options so I decided to stick with my liquid chrome pen for now, I wish I had posted here first but perhaps next time.

I have begun a set of tests with the chrome pen since it's use so far hasn't proved very appealing. In fact in the images above on the upright footpeg the upper surface was touched up with it. I've watched a lot of videos on using the pen but the only good ones with actual tests are where it was airbrushed on, all the actual pen ones are just people splattering it onto plastic. It does actually say on the packet that on porous surfaces it gives a metallic finish and on non-porous a mirror finish so obviously the surface does matter and the pen is not a cover all and forget tool. 

 

I do have Aspergers and so have to be careful what and how I say things as often I am misunderstood so excuse me if this is out of order but I was actually joking about the minty stripe in the toothpaste, it may well help I have no comparison but generally any toothpaste works the same. Well perhaps not that grout based stuff you find in hotel bathrooms, that'd take the glaze off your grandmothers best china.

 

Oh I remembered something else I did the other day but had completely forgotten about. I used the back from the chrome sprue identifier to create a vin number plate for the frame.

 

 

 

Another problem I have is that the front brake lines on my bike were steel wound, not like braiding but more like a steel spring encapsulating the pipe. My best option I can think of so far is using very fine fuse wire and wrapping it around the provided hose but getting - and keeping - the spacing even is going to be a challenge.

I am open to any ideas both on that and perhaps ways of recreating the actual exhausts from my own bike. To be honest I can't even think of anything for the exhausts that wouldn't simply look tacky. The best I have considered so far is gently melting and bending some sprue for the main pipes as it is about the correct thickness. If that worked then I would only have the mufflers to contend with. I may have to concede that I don't have the skill but I haven't completely given up on the idea just yet.

 

 

[Mumbly]

14 hours ago, KelT said:

Thanks for the info Stef N. I put in a large order just two nights ago and I looked at the Vallejo Metal Colour but in the end it was just another one of many options so I decided to stick with my liquid chrome pen for now, I wish I had posted here first but perhaps next time.

I have begun a set of tests with the chrome pen since it's use so far hasn't proved very appealing. In fact in the images above on the upright footpeg the upper surface was touched up with it. I've watched a lot of videos on using the pen but the only good ones with actual tests are where it was airbrushed on, all the actual pen ones are just people splattering it onto plastic. It does actually say on the packet that on porous surfaces it gives a metallic finish and on non-porous a mirror finish so obviously the surface does matter and the pen is not a cover all and forget tool. 

 

I do have Aspergers and so have to be careful what and how I say things as often I am misunderstood so excuse me if this is out of order but I was actually joking about the minty stripe in the toothpaste, it may well help I have no comparison but generally any toothpaste works the same. Well perhaps not that grout based stuff you find in hotel bathrooms, that'd take the glaze off your grandmothers best china.

 

Oh I remembered something else I did the other day but had completely forgotten about. I used the back from the chrome sprue identifier to create a vin number plate for the frame.

 

 

 

Another problem I have is that the front brake lines on my bike were steel wound, not like braiding but more like a steel spring encapsulating the pipe. My best option I can think of so far is using very fine fuse wire and wrapping it around the provided hose but getting - and keeping - the spacing even is going to be a challenge.

I am open to any ideas both on that and perhaps ways of recreating the actual exhausts from my own bike. To be honest I can't even think of anything for the exhausts that wouldn't simply look tacky. The best I have considered so far is gently melting and bending some sprue for the main pipes as it is about the correct thickness. If that worked then I would only have the mufflers to contend with. I may have to concede that I don't have the skill but I haven't completely given up on the idea just yet.

 

 

Molotow are good when they work, but take ages to dry and will get easily rubbed off if touched, so use a touch up when finishing up is my advice.  Mr Hobby Super Metallic Chrome Silver is very good, and I think is brushable, just use over gloss black base.  I would persevere with the airbrush for the Chrome, either with Molotow or the paints.

 

For the wire wrap you will need thin wire and 5 amp fuse might be thin enough.  Dont wind it over the vinyl though, I use brass or alloy tubes, make sure it is at least half as big a diameter than the tube otherwise it wont thread on.  Do a tight wind and adjust it when on the tube which will reduce it to fit. 

 

I have seen Miliput used to make exhausts either with plastic rod or brass tube (this was on 2 strokes, so would do for the muffler).

 

Tony

 

[veg]

Ive used old plastic ink cartridges painted silver to replicate these types of silencers previously, they are similar in style.

[KelT]

Thanks Mumbly. 

 

I may yet have to resort to the airbrush, I understand I'm trying to get the best job with the second best tool for the purpose but I'd still like to try with the brush/pen for now. If my Moltow ink were in a bottle I might gave the airbrush a go but I don't fancy pulling my new pen apart to try and get a couple of drops of ink out.

I tried experimenting with kitchen foil and the results were pretty amazing actually, I didn't use any glue just rubbed it down over the part and then polished with metal polish, it was very impressive apart from the small size of the part with so many angles and the "Virago" insignia didn't help since I could not rub from the middle. I was very tempted to go with it to be honest despite the fact that there was always two small creases I just couldn't get rid of, almost ready, until I took the photos that is. I normally take the photos since the camera picks out things my old eyes can't and I have to say the images were pretty bad which surprised me since I had checked them under the magnifying glass thoroughly. In the end I have decided to give the Moltow a shot and I can always cover them with tin foil if things don't work out.

From my Moltow experiments I have found that the surface you paint onto is very important, basically the smoother the better and by smooth I mean really smooth. The difference between bare plastic straight out of the box and highly (toothpaste) polished plastic is remarkable. The ink flows on much smoother and lays down an even reflective coat. I found that painting over Future made an improvement too but Future didn't do as well as the polished when painted onto rough plastic so I'm thinking I will polish up the parts, then lay down some Future, buff up the Future and try the Moltow on that. My thinking is that the undercoat of Future will also allow me to remove the chrome if things go awry.

The sensitivity to touch was going to be an issue with the Moltow too as you mentioned but I found that even after only 1 day drying a coat of Future over the chrome not only preserved the shine but removed the issue of touch. I didn't take photos of all my tests but below is the initial one:

 

The images from left to right are: Bare plastic/Polished plastic (toothpaste since I lack anything else just now)/Future/Vallejo Gloss Black/Vallejo Satin Varnish  (in both instances the chrome reacted badly with the Vallejo)

 

 

I'm not sure about the brass/alloy tube thing for the brake lines, would they be flexible enough to get those bends? I've never used/seen any before, well not on this scale.

 

Veg. What can I say except thank you. Something with the basic shape was exactly what I was trying to conjure up and ink cartridges seem like they would be perfect, I shall have to  get some and give it a go. I did try bending some sprue using a heat-gun and the results were really good so it looks like making the actual pipes should be possible even for me. I was never very good at pipe bending though so I figure I'll make a wire template first and then try to put the bends in the plastic accordingly. All that will have to wait until I have the engine and rear wheel mounted on the chassis so that I can model the wire template to scale. Mumbly mentioned Miliput but I have no idea what that is so I'll have to look it up.

 

Thank you for all the ideas and help, this was supposed to be a relaxing just stick everything together build but I have a way of turning everything into a challenge, it can be frustrating but so long as it's also fun then why the hell not have a go. After all, the worst that can happen is that I end up with indelible black ink and Miliput (just looked it up) in my hair and chrome eyelashes, then I get arrested for being Gary Glitter.

 

 

 

[Mumbly]

What I meant by winding the fuse wire around a tube was to just use it to form the "spring".  Once you have enough you can then slide it onto the vinyl tube and then re-size.  It can be anything that is long enough and larger that the final object, I use brass or alloy tube as I have loads of diameters.

 

On the Molotow pen, the nibs unscrew as they are re-fillable, but it looks like you are making good progress.

 

For the foil, you might be able to get it easier in Aus, is to try to get Hasegawa Mirror finish - it is exactly that and looks bang on as fork chrome.  It is also much thiner than kitchen foil.  Bare Metal Foil is also good, as this burnishes down very well.  Follow your own plan though, it is part of the fun .

 

Tony