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Special Hobby 1/72 Bf 109 E-4 Part Deux (And Trois For That Matter)


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While building my first Special Hobby 1/72 Bf 109 E-4, sinister plans were being hatched for further variants. These are the next two. As usually happens, we try different techniques as we progress. On this one I tried the newish AK paints on the cockpit. They are OK but have not knocked Gunze Sangyo (aka God's Paint) off their pedestal. I only used them on the interior and started by giving everything a dark base, in this case RLM 66 grey. This was followed by RLM 02 sprayed at an acute angle from above. This left a contrived shadow below all of the relief in the cockpit.

 

50944088788_dd078319f6_c.jpgCAA676CD-D8A2-4E4A-8D12-68E20DD5E681_1_201_a by Barry Numerick, on Flickr

 

Detail painting and burnt umber oils washes followed. I also used the Yahu repainted instrument panel, which is a real gem.

 

50960360233_518e093372_c.jpg7A67A443-0877-460B-AD45-284F09B00AEB_1_201_a by Barry Numerick, on Flickr

 

 

50961064346_a07a5a87fb_c.jpg97552E20-E5A5-48DF-98E9-B13288C91185_1_201_a by Barry Numerick, on Flickr

 

These are two birds from JG 54, a group with some of the most flamboyant schemes and marking in the Luftwaffe. Both are E-4 variants, one will be an E-4 jabo. The first was started simultaneously with my initial Special Hobby 109. It will be Ostermann's White 1. A curious feature of this plane is the ghost images of the fuselage codes or Stammkennzeichen. These were applied with washable black paint but left a pale remnant when they were removed in the field. I considered a number of possibilities and ended up using white codes from Fantasy Printshop. I then gently over sprayed them with RLM 65 grey, followed by the RLM 02 and RLM 70 mottling. This gave me the effect I was looking for.

 

 

51037368263_b5c4305f2e_c.jpgC7C3EFB3-DEB6-424C-A91B-CA1A288B2186_1_201_a by Barry Numerick, on Flickr

 

 

51038197372_06000b4d2e_c.jpg6E230EF9-8962-45C3-8382-151C3CC59329_1_201_a by Barry Numerick, on Flickr

 

 

 

The second 109 has some garish geometric shapes on the fuselage and enough yellow tactical markings to effectively negate the camouflage. There are quite a few online builds of this kit and one of the best was by Andrea Brenco. He cut off the oiler cooler section from the lower wing and attached it separately. This would allow me to more easily paint a complex fuselage pattern, then attach the tight fitting wing with no problems. After seeing a published photo of this plane I knew that I had to build it and charged in. The only problem was that I assumed that in my extensive collection of decals the proper Yellow 8 would be lurking. Hours of searching, after fully painting the model, proved the folly of those thoughts. The 8 is unusual. It is taller than normal and the upper loop was smaller than the lower one. The only practical solution came in the form of a white 8 from a Third Group decal sheet. I cut a section from the upper section and applied it to the model. Some techniques I had used for coloring decals didn't work here, so I was left to painting the yellow over the white. What could possibly go wrong? Using very diluted Vallejo yellow I applied 8-10 coats. Each individually was nearly imperceptible and coloring outside the lines had no effect. The cumulative effect worked out. Then it was on to the usual burnt umber oil paint wash as the first step of weathering.

 

 

 

51095296669_6458153d3a_c.jpg71C61928-C08A-4320-B323-8C28501F776A_1_201_a by Barry Numerick, on Flickr

 

 

51095296634_7d04ab9bdb_c.jpg7862FDA3-7474-489C-A913-B79A0DFB7DD1_1_201_a by Barry Numerick, on Flickr

 

 

51096019630_ee23271045_c.jpgC302F714-6C90-4274-A620-A44BEC490809_1_201_a by Barry Numerick, on Flickr

 

 

This about brings us up to the present. The horizontal stabs and their struts are on and canopies are unmasked. Not visible is the work done on the landing gear, brake lines, wheels ( with new Quick Boost resin replacements) and vac canopy center sections.

 

 

51124513440_4b324bb10a_c.jpgAB7AE0E6-00D1-4C30-BDC9-79FBB68FB76D_1_201_a by Barry Numerick, on Flickr

 

 

51123711916_b31a25c75b_c.jpg95E8E9D2-18BA-4ED9-9966-11749E988EB4_1_201_a by Barry Numerick, on Flickr

 

 

51123618413_6bbf4a6b44_c.jpgA38A2CC9-672A-413D-9BAE-99067ADE94ED_1_201_a by Barry Numerick, on Flickr

 

 

51123457864_fda4167dba_c.jpgC8D0BC79-6636-462F-8E19-759DD581A47F_1_201_a by Barry Numerick, on Flickr

 

 

Thanks for following along; hopefully you've found something useful.

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Superb work 109 fan. I'm looking forward to building this kit in the Bf 109 STGB starting at the end of May. 

 

9 hours ago, 109 fan said:

Then it was on to the usual burnt umber oil paint wash as the first step of weathering

I'm a complete novice when it comes to weathering. Yours looks very good. Might I ask what 'burnt umber oil paint wash' is, and how is it applied?

 

Thanks,

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Thank you, Johnson. I use burnt umber oil paint (a very dark brown) and thin it just slightly with odorless thinners. It is then applied with a small brush over all panel lines and rivets. This kit is already riveted, which saved quite a bit of time. After about 10-15 minutes I rub off the paint with dry Q-tips, horizontally on the wings and tail surfaces and vertically on the fuselage. I don't rub the paint completely off the airframe, but leave a little staining around the lines. Oil paint is very forgiving. If you're not happy with the result a wet Q-tip or paintbrush will remove most of it and you can start again. Also, it has a very slow drying time. Some modelers apply this weathering over flat or satin finishes. I prefer to start with a glossy surface. My personal preference is Gunze Sangyo GX-100 gloss lacquer. You can also use an acrylic finish but avoid enamels. The oil paint thinners will eat through the finish. HTH.

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Thanks for the guidance 109 fan.

Having been an enamel user for years and years, I am slowly trying out other paint types. I look forward to trying the oil paint weathering.

Cheers,

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Getting closer. The first photo shows some pitot tubes I made from .2mm Albion Alloys brass tube. The brace was made by crimping the tube with pliers. This was then superglued to the tube. Here they have been primed with Mr. Surfacer 1000. 

 

 

51143483483_b15d560dbf_c.jpg960F4B42-77A4-43C1-B2E8-5DC1CD5B5B1C_1_201_a by Barry Numerick, on Flickr

 

 

 

One of these birds will be a Jabo. I used a 250kg bomb from the ICM Bf 109 E-7 kit. The fin braces are heat stretched Evergreen strip. This gave me a good brace shape without having to cut thin sheet.

 

 

51123711951_687bcf2913_c.jpg720D530C-B538-481A-BB18-C072C3636D72_1_201_a by Barry Numerick, on Flickr

 

 

Here is where they stand at the moment.

 

 

 

51142590942_09f36fbf57_c.jpgD56A6345-1A5F-4929-8598-4FFD7851C25A_1_201_a by Barry Numerick, on Flickr

 

 

51142590927_fb5ab0c101_c.jpgE49D942F-B4D6-4237-9A0B-7585D01D83AD_1_201_a by Barry Numerick, on Flickr

 

 

51144370785_6ffec0795b_c.jpg26B83356-4F30-4A3F-A197-355892BA1193_1_201_a by Barry Numerick, on Flickr

 

 

51144370755_5c9217b0df_c.jpg5CBF0E97-4F50-4E85-9B15-BABA489A537F_1_201_a by Barry Numerick, on Flickr



 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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Thanks, gentlemen. Web99, there are no major fit issues with this kit. The canopy is too wide but some sanding on the windscreen helped. I also cut the rear section in half, sanded it down and rejoined the pieces. You can find a much more detailed explanation of the basics in my earlier post on this site of another SH 109 E build.

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