Twin Otter 1/72 Revell/ex-Matchbox

[Ray S]

Hello all.

 

You know how it goes, you have a complex build on the go and you get to the stage where it represents a bit of a challenge, so you start a quick, simple build, out of the box and all that to help you through with something easier? And it never goes according to plan? Well, that has happened to me.

 

A long time ago, I treated myself to a Matchbox Twin Otter. I had flown in one in Nepal to that wonderful airstrip at Lukla, you know, the one with the crashed aircraft just shoved off the rock and earth runway because they could not carry it out? One of our BM manufacturers, (Parkes682Decals) did a set of transfers for a Nepal Airlines Twotter, and that, plus the fact that Revell had reissued it, prompted me to get one. Then Paul said he could do a Royal Nepal Airlines one (the one I had flown in) so I got another. Then I found he did a Yeti Airlines one (which I also flew in!) and when I went to Hobbycraft, I found Twin Otters were half price, so I bought two (as you do!). That meant I had a spare plane. What to do?

 

The answer was this:

 

 

A Maldivian Air Taxi one (my personal photograph)! It should have been high on my list of 'to do' because my lovely wife and I flew in one on our honeymoon! (not this plane). I hunted high and low for a set of transfers for it, and found, not really to my surprise, that Paul Parkes had one of the old Modelcraft sheets available, so I snapped that up too.

 

Well, I built the Nepal Airlines one as a test quite a long time ago, and it came out very well, I thought:

 

 

I did not do much in the way of modifications to it, but I have learnt a lot since then. Paul's transfers worked a treat I must say too.

 

Anyway, my complex build at the moment is an Aeroclub Felixstowe F2a vacform, and what can be simpler than one of those? A Twin Otter of course...

 

 

I got the Revell colourful boxing, the parts were pretty good, fine raised detailing (possibly in line for rescribing). And the replacement transfers:

 

 

There are still some interesting schemes left on that sheet, (I wonder if I could get away with two or three more?).

 

Then I started construction. I knew It would be simple, but I read somewhere recently that the Matchbox cockpit windows were too tall, so I added some plastic card to the underside of the top frames, and then sanded a downward arc to get a better representation of the lower part of the windscreen:

 

 

Then I remembered that the Nepal Airlines one looked a bit empty with just two bulkheads in the passenger cabin, so:

 

 

I made a floor and some seats. As the shops are shut, I needed to be a bit creative with those. I used some T- shaped rod, filed it so it was then L-shaped, and added seats and backs to that - the idea was that the L would give a consistent angle for the backs. Then I cut two U-shaped pieces and stuck them together to create a plinth for the seats. The quadrants came from sheet I had punched out with a hole-punch, and then cut into quarters. It worked reasonably well. I did not bother with arm rests...

 

 

The seats glued down well with Revell Contacta, and there is enough space between each seat for an Airfix Pilot to sit! 

 

 

He is a bit bulky, but you had to be well wrapped up in WWI! He is just testing it out, and will be gone soon.

 

Another thing I had read about was concerning a thicker section of the fuselage near the front cabin window. There are two of these, one either side of the fuselage, and it seems that they were to protect the fuselage from ice coming off the propellers. I scratched and sanded them off, as I do not think they would apply in the Maldives:

 

 

You can see where this is going, can't you? It seems to have morphed from a OOB to a complex job after all, and I wonder if the Felixstowe really will be the more complicated one after all!

 

When I originally posted the image of the Nepal Airlines one on here, I had a PM conversation with @Admiral Puff and learnt a lot and I told him that I would be improving things on my next Twin Otter I did. It was 7 years ago, crumbs, where did that time go? I have finally kept my promise.

 

Anyway, I think that is enough for the first post, thanks for taking the time to read it,

 

Ray

Edited April 10, 2021 by Ray S
Tidy the post

[Admiral Puff]

Nice one, Ray! You've got me thinking about interiors for my ones, though ...

 

And those panels on the fuselage sides shouldn't be taken off completely - they are doublers to protect the fuselage sides from ice and other nasties thrown from the props.

 

Have a talk to Ali at Aerocraft - he's done some nice stuff for the Matchbox/Hobbycraft/Revell/whatever kit including a new nose section that corrects those over-thick windscreen pillars and makes a big difference to the model's appearance.

[bigbadbadge]

This looks good, I like your method of making the seats, they look great, fantastic job.

Have you a WIP on the Felixstowe as would love to see that too, if you have , I have missed it for which I am sorry, there are not enough hours in a day unfortunately. 

Chris

[Ray S]

@Admiral Puff and @bigbadbadge, thanks for those comments.

 

I have looked at the Aerocraft bits, and I think I will be going for those at some stage. I want to do one of these with crew, passenger, and cargo doors all opened up (complete with a load of trekkers rucksacks in the cargo hold!), so I could then justify the extra expense. I am on a bit of a budget at the moment so need to be careful. I will really make up my mind when I find out how easy it is to glaze the modified windscreen on this one, and also whether the resin one can have the/a crew door opened.

 

Chris, the Felixstowe is a work in progress in the 'Anything but Injection' Group Build here:

 

I know what you mean about missing and hours in the day!

 

All the best, Ray

[bigbadbadge]

Thanks Ray, I will head over in a bit and take a Gander. 

Chris

[Vesa Jussila]

Nice project. I have this kit also in stash waiting to be done. 

[Ray S]

I have made a little more progress today. The transfers for the instrument panels bedded down very well indeed over the raised detailing, and also went onto the seats for the seat belts despite some awkward areas. Note to self for the next one - put the seat belts on before fitting the seats to the floor! The cockpit fitted nicely to the rear cabin, and I used one side of the fuselage as a jig.

 

 

The instructions suggested 20g of nose weight, so I added a load of liquid gravity and assorted glues, but it looks more like a loo than a nose:

 

 

One thing that really made me wonder whether to adjust the lower cockpit windscreen was how to replace the glazing. I have never been too successful at cutting out plastic sheet to fit a gap, and with the various angles and curvature of the windscreen, I wondered if something else would work. First, I added a central frame (note, this is just a practice, all will be removed later):

 

 

I did this a few builds ago when I needed to replace the glazing in an Airfix 737. I added the frames, then smeared some Kristal Klear across the openings. The 737 had a much smaller glazed area though, so, would it work on this very large pane?

 

 

Yes, it did! I was very surprised at that, I did not really expect the stuff to pull across. I have now propped the fuselage half up so gravity may just pull the Klear down to produce the curve. If not, I can see if a second layer might work. If not, I learn a new skill.

 

Thanks for looking and for the comments,

 

Ray

[Ray S]

Hello all, the upshot of that test is in the balance at the moment. This is what I ended up with:

 

 

It is all clear enough, but I am not sure about the surface texture of the test cockpit windscreen. I think I will try and cut some clear plastic card/acetate sheeting and see if I can cut and bend it to a better shape. I am glad I tested before I had got much done to this.

 

Any advice will be very welcome if any of you have a suggestion or two.

 

Thanks for looking, Ray

[Tcoat]

11 minutes ago, Ray S said:

Hello all, the upshot of that test is in the balance at the moment. This is what I ended up with:

 

It is all clear enough, but I am not sure about the surface texture of the test cockpit windscreen. I think I will try and cut some clear plastic card/acetate sheeting and see if I can cut and bend it to a better shape. I am glad I tested before I had got much done to this.

 

Any advice will be very welcome if any of you have a suggestion or two.

 

Thanks for looking, Ray

Try another layer of the Kristal Klear but stand the whole thing up so the windscreen is horizontal and even. It can be hit or miss but I have had success doing the two layer thing before. 

[Ray S]

7 minutes ago, Tcoat said:

Try another layer of the Kristal Klear but stand the whole thing up so the windscreen is horizontal and even. It can be hit or miss but I have had success doing the two layer thing before. 

 

Thanks for that, I had wondered whether that would work or not. I will give it a go.

 

Cheers,

 

Ray

[Tcoat]

3 minutes ago, Ray S said:

 

Thanks for that, I had wondered whether that would work or not. I will give it a go.

 

Cheers,

 

Ray

Gravity is not your friend when glazing with Kristal Klear! I have received some strange looks from the wife while gently rocking a model back and forth for 20 minutes until it had set up evenly. 

[TheyJammedKenny!]

Trim those side pillars waaaaay down.  I would suggest Evergreen Plastics clear polystyrene sheet.  Cut a segment to the height of your intended windscreen and gently heat the corners until you can bend them to the curvature you desire.  Cut out the excess plastic and mount, using the center pillar that you've fashioned and the reduced-size side pillars to hold it in place.  Use Zap-560 canopy cement as your bonding agent.

[Ray S]

1 hour ago, TheyJammedKenny! said:

Trim those side pillars waaaaay down.  I would suggest Evergreen Plastics clear polystyrene sheet.  Cut a segment to the height of your intended windscreen and gently heat the corners until you can bend them to the curvature you desire.  Cut out the excess plastic and mount, using the center pillar that you've fashioned and the reduced-size side pillars to hold it in place.  Use Zap-560 canopy cement as your bonding agent.

 

Thanks for that advice. I have the second layer of KK on at the moment, but it will be easily removed when the time comes, then I will try your suggestion, and use the best in the end.

 

Cheers, Ray

[bigbadbadge]

That's interesting,  I have never tried the two coats of the klear before but will have to give that a go. Good luck with what ever method you use. Cockpit and cabin looks great.

 

Chris

[socjo1]

I will follow your build with interest!

It's a pity such interesting, ellegant (Yes, I think so!) and inspiring plane has only such vintage model. Far North - hydroplanes with canoes inside and outside, Antarctic, Himalayas, exotic islands... So many interesting places and purposes...  Let's hope maybe Special Hobby or another company will produce more detailed and modern kit.

BTW, my plans are:

 

PS. These guys, firejumpers arrre really tough men...

 

Best regards,

Michał

 

Edited April 14, 2021 by socjo1