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1:72 Hasegawa F/A-18C Hornet VFA-122 USN Centennial


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16 hours ago, Navy Bird said:

stand at the back of the theatre. Which is closer to the popcorn

Don't mind standing at the back Bill can I pass you some popcorn?

Very nice precise work with the resin additions, they really make a huge difference

 

   Stay safe             Roger

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10 hours ago, Navy Bird said:

All said, I think it's well worth all this work

Definitely! And thank you for guiding us through the process, most useful :thumbsup2: :thumbsup2:

 

BTW, I'm also in the "use a razor saw to remove the casting blocks from resin" gang :D  And being even lazier than that, I sometimes resort to a Dremel cutting disc (and prayers, 'cause if it slips, the beautiful resin detail is gone for good.... How do I know? Well.... :banghead: )

 

Ciao

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On 4/3/2021 at 7:40 PM, Navy Bird said:

Does this scheme look familiar?

I believe it represents the geometric markings used by the aircraft of USS Hornet, CV12, an Essex class carrier which was the replacement for the original Hornet, CV8. A Hornet from the the Hornet- pretty cool!

Mike

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On 09/04/2021 at 03:07, Hamden said:

Don't mind standing at the back Bill can I pass you some popcorn?

 

With butter and a lot of salt. Need to keep my blood pressure up.     :)

 

On 09/04/2021 at 03:41, giemme said:

BTW, I'm also in the "use a razor saw to remove the casting blocks from resin" gang :D  And being even lazier than that, I sometimes resort to a Dremel cutting disc (and prayers, 'cause if it slips, the beautiful resin detail is gone for good.... How do I know? Well.... :banghead: )

 

Ouch! I can't tell you how many times I've sanded or ground right on through some of that lovely resin detail. At one point I was actually thinking of always buying two of each so I had a spare. In many cases I did buy two of each, but only because I'm old and didn't remember I'd already bought one.    :drunk:

 

On 09/04/2021 at 03:52, 72modeler said:

I believe it represents the geometric markings used by the aircraft of USS Hornet, CV12, an Essex class carrier which was the replacement for the original Hornet, CV8. A Hornet from the the Hornet- pretty cool!

 

Now that is cool. Hadn't thought of it that way. Thanks.

 

*****

 

I've started working on the main gear bays. There seems to be much more involved here than simply removing the plastic from the Hasegawa lower fuselage. The separate side panels of the lower fuselage also need to be modified in order for the Aires resin to fit. I'll document all of this as I did with the nose gear bay.     :wall:

 

As much as I don't look forward to all that sanding and grinding, it appears that the Aires resin corrects what I always thought was wrong with the Hasegawa kit. As Hasegawa moulded it, the lower section of the main gear leg is not parallel (or nearly so) with the ground. There is a noticeable angle. All my walkaround photos seem to show it as parallel. I just did some tests and it looks like the Aires resin fixes this. We shall see.

 

More to come...     :)

 

Cheers,

Bill

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Let's see, where was I? Oh yeah, sacrificing much of my remaining time on earth by working to make the Aires main gear bays fit. Here are some quick photos - first, I used some card stock to reinstate the roof I so unceremoniously shaved off of the nose gear bay. Now I feel so much better.     :)

 

IMG_5798

 

That was easy, and even though it was a tight fit between the nose gear bay and the cockpit, everything still fits OK as can be seen here:

 

IMG_5797

 

Next, hack and slash with the styrene butcher. After several units of time, I won't disclose which ones, I have removed the starboard injection moulded main gear bay.

 

IMG_5800

 

Just for giggles, I taped the sidewall in place to see if the resin would magically drop in like it shows in the minimalist instruction sheet supplied by Aires. Would that it were that easy. Aires make no mention of the sidewall - it's not even shown in their drawing. Here is what we're dealing with:

 

IMG_5799

 

The reinforcing ribs on the sidewall have to be removed. Next, also not shown by Aires, see the thick bit of plastic shaped like the Sparrow missile fin? That needs to go away too, and be replaced by thin card stock. For reference, here is what that area looks like in real life:

 

2021-04-13-0001

 

Note the triangular bit of metal - not quite as thick as Hasegawa moulded it, eh? The Aires resin does a reasonably good job of replicating these structures in 1:72 scale. To take advantage of this, the Hasegawa plastic must be modified. It's my lot in life.    :)

 

Once I make the mods, I'll be back with more photos. In the meantime, here is a nice in-flight shot of the real aircraft. Enjoy!

 

R17a5249ef857c70890d867c659ce54a1

 

Cheers,

Bill

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Not my best grinding and sanding, but I think you get the idea how much styrene needed to be removed (compare with the side panel from the port side which hasn't been hacked at yet). Nobody will see this, so it doesn't have to look pretty - it just needs to make enough room for the resin.

 

IMG_5804

 

The resin gear bay also needed quite a bit of thinning (on its sides) and shaping (on the edges that contact the bottom of the fuselage) in order to achieve some modicum of fit. And believe me, the fit is not perfect. I used my normal criteria for modifying the resin - how does it look when in place, and how will the main gear leg be positioned? On the F/A-18 the main gear is an odd looking beast, and if it's not positioned correctly it just looks plain weird (i before e except after c). I did a lot of test fitting and eyeballing, and finally bit the bullet and glued the starboard resin in place. There's no going back now!    :)

 

IMG_5805

 

IMG_5806

 

I still need to add a small triangular bit of card stock where the AIM-7 fin will go. It's quite obvious that the resin has a lot more detail, and will look rather dapper when painted up and washed. I mentioned earlier that I think Hasegawa has the "sit" of the main gear wrong. Here is what I mean. Photos show the trailing beam (between the main strut and the wheel) approximately parallel to the macadam when the aircraft is on the ground.

 

F18B_Hornet_Landing_gear_(8505615504)

 

68d24a344c43b20da0d1648071ae5d39

 

No doubt this is affected by fuel load, etc. but most of my photos are similar to the above. I put the Hasegawa gear legs (strut and beam are one piece) into place so I could compare how the leg is positioned in the kit, and how it looks in the resin. Hopefully these photos show the difference.

 

IMG_5807

 

The leg in the foreground is in the resin gear bay. Do you see what I mean? I don't know if Aires made a deliberate attempt to fix this or if this was just serendipity. In any event, I think it's an improvement. A look from behind:

 

IMG_5810

 

Now all I have to do is repeat all of this for the other side! Arghh.     :drunk:

 

Oh, by the way. I'm not at all sure if I'll be able to use the intakes, and it's not because of the length. In order to have the curvature of the intake lip align with that on the fuselage, both the fuselage wall and the intake wall need to be thinned. And they will both end up paper thin I'm afraid - but I will give it a shot. Maybe. We'll see. Ugh.     :wall:

 

Cheers,

Bill, who's not at all sure why he has an additional set of these resin bits for that Blue Angel bird.

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One thing l disliked about the Hasegawa undercarriage legs was the oval shape that they reproduced instead of circular. Great work on fitting the undercarriage bay btw.

 

Regards

Robert

 

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Well, the resin bay looks like a huge improvement over the kit part, all round.

 

KUDOS for going through all the sanding process - and being successful. Not that I had any doubts about that  :worthy:

 

Ciao 

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2 hours ago, Robert said:

One thing l disliked about the Hasegawa undercarriage legs was the oval shape that they reproduced instead of circular. Great work on fitting the undercarriage bay btw.

 

Thanks Robert. I agree on the gear strut cross-section, it should be round. And to my eye a bit more beefy than what Hasegawa provide. The aftermarket legs for this kit, from Scale Aircraft Conversions, are literally nothing more than white metal casts of the kit parts, at least the ones I've purchased. I didn't bother with them. I'm told the Academy F/A-18C is a much better kit but to be honest I've never seen one. I had these two Hasegawa kits in my stash already - this one was a Secret Santa gift a few years back, and the Blue Angel version goes back to whenever it first came out. Late 80s? Early 90s? Beats me.

 

1 hour ago, giemme said:

Well, the resin bay looks like a huge improvement over the kit part, all round.

KUDOS for going through all the sanding process - and being successful. Not that I had any doubts about that  :worthy:

 

Thanks Giorgio. Yup, much more detail. I haven't checked to see if it's accurate, but that doesn't matter in 1:72 scale right? Right?   :)

 

*****

 

I may have spoke too soon - it just may be possible to use those intakes. Film at 11.

 

Cheers,

Bill

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11 hours ago, Navy Bird said:

and if it's not positioned correctly it just looks plain weird

 

and if it’s positioned correctly it just looks plain weird too! I guess we’re into relative levels of weirdness....:D

 

Nice work getting that resin to fit Bill. Don’t quite know how you’ve managed it without breaking something!

 

 

 

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Good to know, since I will build my Hornet heavily armed, the undercarriage would look too "light". You just talked me into getting the resin gear bays as well!

 

Alex

 

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I think there used to be a topic (well, one of the many) in Arc Forums that was comparing some of the 1/72 Legacy Hornets kits available.

 

What I faintly remember is that someone had mentioned that either the main landing gears or, the wheels of the Hasegawa kit were more accurate/ had the right angle (from the rest)??? Anyone else remember this perhaps?

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10 hours ago, viperchief said:

Such a great scheme! Awesome work so far!

 

Thanks! I really like the scheme too. Plus, I won't have to do all that crazy weathering you see on modern USN jets. Personally, I think they should switch back to Light Gull Gray over White, but then I'm not the one getting shot at.     :(

 

7 hours ago, Fritag said:

and if it’s positioned correctly it just looks plain weird too! I guess we’re into relative levels of weirdness....:D

Nice work getting that resin to fit Bill. Don’t quite know how you’ve managed it without breaking something!

 

Probably why it's called a "bug." Take a look at how it retracts - yikes!

 

https://tailhooktopics.blogspot.com/2018/11/f-18a-main-landing-gear.html

 

6 hours ago, alex said:

Good to know, since I will build my Hornet heavily armed, the undercarriage would look too "light". You just talked me into getting the resin gear bays as well!

 

Don't say I didn't warn you about the resin! It takes a lot of work to make it fit - and I'm not 100% sure I've got it right.    :drunk:

 

6 hours ago, Shalako said:

What I faintly remember is that someone had mentioned that either the main landing gears or, the wheels of the Hasegawa kit were more accurate/ had the right angle (from the rest)??? Anyone else remember this perhaps?

 

There is a thread here on BM comparing Hasegawa and Academy 1:72 kits, and it's stated that Hasegawa has the better main gear. I don't think it mentioned angle, but if it did - which one? There are a lot of angles on the main gear. I'm just going by photos and trying to replicate what I see. As I currently have it, the wheel is a tad too far back. Speaking of wheels, those in the Hasegawa kit are pretty lame. I've ordered resin replacements.

 

1 hour ago, Billy54 said:

Really enjoy following this build and appreciate the work you're doing with the resin wheel wells.

 

Thanks! I'm glad you're enjoying it - I'm not so much. Too much sanding and grinding! But in the end I think it will all be worth it and I won't remember all the work. I may have to go to a shrink and have my memories repressed, but somehow I'll get it out of my mind.    :)

 

Now off to hack away the other gear bay. BTW, I got one of the intakes to fit. I then found another bit of Aires strangeness - the intake faces are round, but the hole at the end of the trunk is oval. Fun, fun, fun!

 

Cheers,

Bill

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59 minutes ago, Navy Bird said:

There is a thread here on BM comparing Hasegawa and Academy 1:72 kits, and it's stated that Hasegawa has the better main gear. I don't think it mentioned angle, but if it did - which one? There are a lot of angles on the main gear. I'm just going by photos and trying to replicate what I see. As I currently have it, the wheel is a tad too far back. Speaking of wheels, those in the Hasegawa kit are pretty lame. I've ordered resin replacements.

 

 

Cheers,

Bill

Have you noticed also that the vertical stabilisers have an issue with their accuracy (at the bottom, where they join with the airframe)? I think they are too curvy.

 

I would like to know your thoughts about this detail Bill.

 

Cheers,

Bill

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On 4/6/2021 at 8:27 PM, stevehnz said:

VF-17 F6Fs as shown here on USS Hornet early 1945. #41 in the background is the only one of their birds with these markings I've ever seen in the 3(4?) colour scheme as the CONA jet was finished, all the rest appear to be GSB. I've this sheet & that kit with some of the bits you've got so very interested to see it come together. :)

Steve.

Image borrowed from Asisbiz

Grumman-F6F-5-Hellcat-VF-22-White-22-and

I was going to say the same about the scheme. However I had in mind that the squadron was aboard the Essex.

Very interesting and inspiring project as usual! Looking forward to ir.

 

Best regards from Uruguay.

Ignacio

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3 hours ago, Shalako said:

Have you noticed also that the vertical stabilisers have an issue with their accuracy (at the bottom, where they join with the airframe)? I think they are too curvy.

 

I haven't heard that before. To check this, I brought these pictures up on my monitor at 200%...

 

fin_01

 

fin_02

 

...and held the Hasegawa vertical fin in front of me in such a way that it was the same size (to my eye) as the pic on the monitor, and superimposed over it. The curve on the bottom looks like a pretty good match. Perfect? No, the lowest part of the Hasegawa curve is a wee bit too far forward. Nothing I would be worried about. I held the plastic part at approximately the same "canted" angle as on the real aircraft when making the comparison, as that affects how curved the bottom edge looks.

 

Cheers,

Bill

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What a cool scheme Bill, a very appropriate Navy Bird subject.

Good on you for your never ending quest for 1/72 perfection Bill.

After seeing the resin I think I'd have just build this wheels up.😜

I don't think I've ever seen a pic of a parked Hornet without the flaps down, but am willing (in fact, would love) to be corrected.

One thing I do know for sure, is that the Academy vertical fins are noticeably larger than the Hasegawa, and I have not been able to find out which is more accurate.

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1 hour ago, Navy Bird said:

the lowest part of the Hasegawa curve is a wee bit too far forward.

Cheers mate. That's the impression that I also had.

 

When I'll finish mine (Canadian) I will post some photos to see how I have tried to modify this area and make it look better.

 

Cheers,

Bill

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7 hours ago, Navy Bird said:

 

 BTW, I got one of the intakes to fit. I then found another bit of Aires strangeness - the intake faces are round, but the hole at the end of the trunk is oval. Fun, fun, fun!

 

Cheers,

Bill

 

Now the Aires intakes really interests me because as I said above I plan on using them on a Hasegawa Hornet (F/A-18C) sometime this year, so please don't be shy on providing your opinion and pictures of how you inserted these into your Hornet. :)    

 

And yeah, keep up the good work it's coming along very nicely.

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Hey Bill, great idea, great decals and neat am resin. I like this idea but don't have a Hornet in my stash. However, I do have a an A-7 Corsair, there's got to be a FU-4 scheme I could find.

Popcorn at the ready...

 

Colin

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19 hours ago, Cookenbacher said:

I don't think I've ever seen a pic of a parked Hornet without the flaps down, but am willing (in fact, would love) to be corrected.

One thing I do know for sure, is that the Academy vertical fins are noticeably larger than the Hasegawa, and I have not been able to find out which is more accurate.

 

Thanks Cookie. I've been thinking about lowering the flaps, but that looks to be another one of those "non-fun" jobs. I've seen some aftermarket resin wings with lowered flaps but only for the Academy kit. Haven't heard anything about the size of the fins, but that should be easy to check. I've some drawings around here somewhere...I'll get back to you.

 

18 hours ago, Shalako said:

When I'll finish mine (Canadian) I will post some photos to see how I have tried to modify this area and make it look better.

 

Some of the Canadian schemes are striking - which one will you use?

 

17 hours ago, Billy54 said:

Now the Aires intakes really interests me because as I said above I plan on using them on a Hasegawa Hornet (F/A-18C) sometime this year, so please don't be shy on providing your opinion and pictures of how you inserted these into your Hornet. :)   

 

Me shy? Never! You will see whatever I end up with for the intakes. I made the first one fit, but it involves - get ready - a lot of sanding and grinding.    :wall:

 

7 hours ago, heloman1 said:

Hey Bill, great idea, great decals and neat am resin. I like this idea but don't have a Hornet in my stash. However, I do have a an A-7 Corsair, there's got to be a FU-4 scheme I could find.

 

An A-7 Corsair II in an F4U Corsair scheme would be a cool what-if. I don't believe the USN had any A-7s in the inventory when they had their Centennial, so none were painted in any retro schemes. There was a sweet EA-6B in a between-the-wars scheme with red and white stripes on the rudder. I remember a yellow winged T-45 Goshawk as well - another great scheme. So many subjects, so little time.

 

Cheers,

Bill

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2 hours ago, 72modeler said:

Like these?

 

Nice stuff - thanks Mike. The China Lake Hornet is intriguing as well as that Sabreliner. But I'm having a hard time considering the "digital camo uniform" paint job as a vintage scheme.     :)

 

*****

 

OK, some more on the intakes. First, the resin bits - on the right you can see the extra chunk of resin that is cast onto the outside of the intake trunk nearest the lip. On the left, after I've sanded all that off. And it needs to be removed, or this will never fit. You've got to be really careful here, as the wall thickness near the lip on the outboard side will get exceedingly thin.

 

 

IMG_5813

 

Next, the wall thickness of the styrene fuselage in this area needs to be reduced. On the left you can see the parts as they were moulded (the sidewall is just taped on, and the alignment if off a bit). There is no flash here, the plastic actually is this thick. On the right, the results of my careful Dremel-tooling. To be honest, it needs to have some more removed before I'll be really happy. And there is not much left to remove!

 

IMG_5812

 

As you can see, I've removed the floor of the port gear bay and now have to get to work grinding away the remaining plastic so I can get the resin fixed on that side. You can also see that I've added the triangular Sparrow fin shadow protection thingie on the starboard side.

 

This next shot shows how far in the intake is positioned, and how close it gets to the gear bay.

 

IMG_5815

 

See? Plenty of room. Especially when you consider how thin the engine faces are. Here they are after some GSI Creos Super Fine Silver 2 and a light wash.

 

IMG_5814

 

Surprisingly, even though the geometry of the engine face doesn't match the opening of the intake trunk (remember, class, that there is no congruence between a circle and an oval) it is possible to pop the engine face in. I assume the trunk, with its thin walls, is deforming to match. Either that or warp drive is actually possible.

 

More later - I've just been informed that my daughter is in labor! Woo hoo!

 

Cheers,

Bill

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