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Tim's VacForm Savage - COMPLETED


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Rejoining with this VacForm kit,  as you've already seen from @TonyW.

This kit cost me £10 at IPMS Gloucester show in 2000,

Rare-Plane-AJ2-P-Savage.jpg

01-instructions.jpg

I'm planning to build the blue photo option.

01-paints.jpg

And the parts, my kit was untouched.

01-parts.jpg

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I outlined the parts with an HB pencil,

02-outlined.jpg

Then cut them into individual parts, as close as I dared.

02-parts.jpg

Currently sanding the parts, the enging cowlings and those to the left, are ready.  The rest need a bit wore work.

03-trimmed-Parts.jpg

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Nice start!:popcorn:

 

Interesting approach to only cut near the part, and then sand the rest. That would deal with one of my primary vac concerns. I'll try that on the vac canopy of my current resin build. :thumbsup:

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4 hours ago, dnl42 said:

Nice start!:popcorn:

 

Interesting approach to only cut near the part, and then sand the rest. That would deal with one of my primary vac concerns. I'll try that on the vac canopy of my current resin build. :thumbsup:

 

It really helps doing it like that. As you sand down, it leaves a very thin sliver, and you know when you are getting close! It is especially useful when you sand it down on a piece of wet and dry taped to a bench! I have never tried it tat way on canopies though.

 

Cheers,

 

Ray

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Busy day,  all the parts have been sanded now.

Here the fuselage, decorating started, and complete with seats (non-ejection) from my spares.

Fuselage-Parts.jpg

Now with tabs to help lock it togther.  Wing outers are assembled, and reinforced with sprue.

Fuselage-Tabs.jpg

Locating supports located below where the cocopit floor will sit.

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Fantastic! Who would have thought two ancient vacform kits would surface in a Group Build?

 

I'll be following along for sure.

 

Seeing you going for the blue recon version has removed my dithering about which scheme to go for. I'll be definitely going for the gull grey/white version. It's my preferred choice, but I can make things difficult for myself sometimes.

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Here's how I'll fit the nosegear - which could well be removeable to avoid damage. 

Some scrap cemented to cockpit floor underside, and a tube for the white metal part to plug into.

05-Nose-Gear.jpg

I'm currently scouring my empire for similar tube for the main gear - and failing.

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Here's current progress:

Trying to assemble something similar to plug the main gear into.

That engine block is leftover R2800 from a Heller Canadair Waterbomber.

06-nascels.jpg

Starting the smoothing down process for the fuselage, engine pods, and props.

07-smoothed.jpg

Fitted the engines and wings.

08-wings.jpg

Leaving massive gaps underneath.

08-underside.jpg

And catastrophe! - no dark blue paint on my bench . . .

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46 minutes ago, theplasticsurgeon said:

I'm hoping to pick up some Humbrol 15 dark blue, when non-essential retail reopens.

I've got a huge list, but can't get there until Tuesday so I hope they're not closed for restocking; my local model shop doesn't usual open on a Monday but is doing so tomorrow for all the pent-up demand.

Meanwhile, you're undercoat is better than some of my top coats (Britannia in the Africa GB is going badly wrong even as I catch up on this GB)

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That looks fantastic. I'm impressed with the speed its come together as well.

 

Looking at your cockpit area confirms my suspicion that other than the crew and seats, next to nothing can be seen. The crews life jackets catch the eye and everything looks just fine to me.

 

How did the decals behave?

 

Tony.

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3 hours ago, TonyW said:

That looks fantastic. I'm impressed with the speed its come together as well.

 

Looking at your cockpit area confirms my suspicion that other than the crew and seats, next to nothing can be seen. The crews life jackets catch the eye and everything looks just fine to me.

 

How did the decals behave?

 

Tony.

Thanks,  going quickly because this is my only active build at the moment - but I can't wait to get back to injections.

The decals are on the fragile side.  Tear with any stress, so I let them soak a few minutes, then remove from the water so they don't float away.

Them make sure they're mobile before sliding into position.  My surface is already high-gloss, so very gently removal of any excess water - then leave well alone.

 

All the detail decals are still left to apply - it's a slow process.

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On 4/14/2021 at 2:38 PM, theplasticsurgeon said:

The decals are on the fragile side.  Tear with any stress, so I let them soak a few minutes, then remove from the water so they don't float away.

This is a brilliant tip- might be just what saves my forlorn Britannia in the Africa GB👍

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