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Academy F/A-18D Hornet 1/72


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6 hours ago, SAT69 said:

That's some beautiful work! I've never seen those markings before.

Thanks! Yes they are really eye catching..... I'd never seen those markings before either until i picked up this kit. Mind you....two of the other decal options VMFA 224 Bengals, and VMFA 225 Vikings are equally attractive. I may have to build another! 😁

Edited by binbrook87
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  • 1 year later...

Hi binbrook87!

 

What a superb model F/A-18D you have made - hearty congratulations! I have just last week bought this kit (Academy #12422, if important) and I was intending to build it in 75 Squadron Royal Australian Air Force colours and the (also supplied in the box) RAAF decals.

 

However, since I'm not a very experienced modeller, plus I also decided that the FMFA(AW)-533 HAWKS scheme you have built looks so good... maybe it's easier to make it closer to the original instructions, etc - ignoring the add-on Australian version of decals and their placement details. Maybe this was only available in Australia(?)

 

Also, you wrote:

 

>The eagle eyed will spot my mistake on the canopy as I forgot to paint the interior framing black before spraying the top colour! Too late now.... oh well!

 

Please, why is the black done, and I presume matt? I of course noticed nothing awry!

 

cheers,

 

Charles

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  • 5 weeks later...
On 1/20/2023 at 9:23 AM, binbrook87 said:

Thanks for the kind words Charles. Yes the interior canopy framing should be BLACK and not the same grey colour as the exterior colour. My mistake and too late to correct now 😳

So (stupid question!) - is this done because the interior canopy framing IS black on the real plane?

 

You must be an expert to have made the subject F/18 as stunningly lifelike as you did, sincerely! So, why not cut the canopy off (in some way) and then fix up the inside? I'd hate to try it myself, but I'm only a relative novice, even though I'm 62! Wouldn't that be relatively easy for the experienced modeller?

 

 

 

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Hi Charles. Thanks for your kind comments.... I'm no expert just plenty of practice. I took up modelling after a 30 year hiatus and just keep practicing with different methods always trying to improve. Sometimes they work sometimes not but that's half the fun isn't it? Yeh the interior framing of the canopy should be black or dark grey, so what i should have done is spray the canopy black first (after it's been masked) before putting on the top coat of grey. Yes I could have opened the canopy but i wanted to keep it closed to accentuate the shape of the bulbous 2 seater Hornet, and now it's too late without risking damage. 👍👍

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Sorry, absolutely agreed to keep the cockpit closed, to retain the shape of the bulbous 2 seater Hornet; I didn't realise how risky (damage-wise) it would be to open the canopy up, do the black painting inside, and then re-glue it closed again. You're dead right when it comes to experimenting with different methods. I should try this more, even on scrap sprue.

 

Now, I'm a bit stumped - hopefully you have the instructions still, or a memory of this, please: in step 3, it says to cut two protrusions from part A22, on the ventral surface of the engine intakes. From your photos, I am fairly sure you did this, but can I ask why? What is "wrong" with them, that they are supposed to be cut off? No problem doing it - just curious as to why! Also, just forward of this - you have to drill two holes for the locator pins for the central hardpoint. Again, no problem, as I have a nice pin vice and mini drill-bits down to 0.2mm diameter... but why don't they simply put the holes there in the first place(?!)

 

Love your avatar of the EE Lightning and the spectacular ectoplasm. Had the privilege of seeing one display here in Adelaide, for the 50th Anniversary of the RAAF, in 1971, when I was eleven years old.

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Hi Charles. No i can't remember to be honest. Although this website is absolutely priceless for looking at 'what's in the box' for many many kits. I use it all the time. Here's the link to this particular kit.....

 

https://www.super-hobby.com/products/McDonnel-Douglas-F-A-18D-Hornet-U.S.-Marine-Corps.html#gallery_start

 

I would imagine like most manufacturers they use standard common airframe parts to cover all variants and so hence why you may have to cut parts off or open holes up.

 

Good luck with the build and yes the avatar is from the Last Last Lightning show at RAF Binbrook in 1987 where it was a wall to wall Lightning fest, one last hurrah before they were retired the following year. My most memorable airshow and my all time favourite aircraft.

 

Have a look on YouTube, complete with the best of the British summer weather! 😂 Happy days!

 

https://youtu.be/w7gTqFU2Qlk

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Thank you again, Binbrook87 - I will enjoy your Lightning show, as soon as I've sent this reply! I've seen the website before, about this particular Hornet kit... but I haven't paid proper attention to it yet, sorry.

 

Understood now, about cutting off those two ventral sort-of fins/lumps!, and the optional drilling of the central fuselage holes for fitting the optional hardpoint, to adapt for later variants. Thank you for explaining this.

 

 

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Binbrook87 - I have finished said cutting, trimming and drilling. Before I begin the closure of the nose area, there is no mention of ballast/nose weight requirement, either in my instruction booklet or online. Can you, or anyone, please confirm this is definitely NOT needed? Thanks!

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On 12/6/2022 at 10:52 PM, Charles H said:

Hi binbrook87!

 

What a superb model F/A-18D you have made - hearty congratulations! I have just last week bought this kit (Academy #12422, if important) and I was intending to build it in 75 Squadron Royal Australian Air Force colours and the (also supplied in the box) RAAF decals.

 

However, since I'm not a very experienced modeller, plus I also decided that the FMFA(AW)-533 HAWKS scheme you have built looks so good... maybe it's easier to make it closer to the original instructions, etc - ignoring the add-on Australian version of decals and their placement details. Maybe this was only available in Australia(?)

 

Also, you wrote:

 

>The eagle eyed will spot my mistake on the canopy as I forgot to paint the interior framing black before spraying the top colour! Too late now.... oh well!

 

Please, why is the black done, and I presume matt? I of course noticed nothing awry!

 

cheers,

 

Charles

Hi Charles, the decals are a local addition. One of the local model importers commission local Aussie decals producers to add Aussie schemes to the boxings, I expect the decals are from Ronin?

 

And I love the finish on your Hornet @binbrook87, very nicely done! 🏆

 

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7 hours ago, Charles H said:

Binbrook87 - I have finished said cutting, trimming and drilling. Before I begin the closure of the nose area, there is no mention of ballast/nose weight requirement, either in my instruction booklet or online. Can you, or anyone, please confirm this is definitely NOT needed? Thanks!

No I don't think it needed any nose weight Charles 🤔 But if in doubt always add some.....just in case 

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11 hours ago, Charles H said:

Binbrook87 - I have finished said cutting, trimming and drilling. Before I begin the closure of the nose area, there is no mention of ballast/nose weight requirement, either in my instruction booklet or online. Can you, or anyone, please confirm this is definitely NOT needed? Thanks!

 

4 hours ago, binbrook87 said:

No I don't think it needed any nose weight Charles 🤔 But if in doubt always add some.....just in case 

 

I can confirm no nose weight is required due to the long 'wheel base' of the Hornet. I haven't built the Academy one but have built various Italeri, Hobby Boss, and Hasegawa versions. 

 

But as Binbrook mentions add some if you want.

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  • 2 months later...
On 3/1/2023 at 5:03 AM, binbrook87 said:

No I don't think it needed any nose weight Charles 🤔 But if in doubt always add some.....just in case 

As you suggested, I added some nose weight, thank you... just in case! I've only just got back to this model, having been away from home for the past couple of months.

I've completed the basic assembly of fuselage and wings, empennage, and nose cone, but there's areas of slightly ill-fitting parts, requiring sanding/filling in some combination.

 

How do I decide where to "give" (using Tamiya putty, diluted with lacquer thinner) or "take" (fine sanding) to make panels level with each other? When using the putty, can it be used thinly enough to apply as a slurry on a brush, or does it have to be applied thicker, via a miniature scraping tool? Either process will cover or erode existing panel lines, and unless these are reasonably restored by scoring (possible?) the repairs will surely be rather obvious!

 

Sorry - I think I've previously asked about similar a while back, but I can't find enough "history" of my posts.

 

Thank you!

 

Charles

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