Jump to content

Randall & Hopkirk (Deceased) 1964 Austin mini Super BAP 245B conversion from mini cooper


Recommended Posts

It is always a pleasure when you can mix two interests so for a long time I have been planning how to mix my interest in modelling everyday British cars of the 60s/70s with my interest in the pop culture of my childhood and have been amassing the parts I expect to need to make a Mk1 (non Cooper) mini and make it into a model of the Austin Mini Super BAP 245B used in the TV series Randall & Hopkirk (Deceased), as well as many other shows of the period.

 

Here is what I have collected so far:

 

IljHT2oDK0vlxNiaXIMYQmk0Hhe0EmK8xHxMeYQJ

 

Plenty of choice on the actual mini itself – Tamiya and Revell mk 1 minis and plenty of bits left over from various conversions done on the Fujimi ‘Old Mini’.

Incidentally, to get the Revell mini I had to buy a box set with a modern mini cooper, which is of no interest to me if it is of any use to anybody.

 

Main stumbling blocks have been the necessary down grade parts as both mini kits are the upmarket Coopers so I made a list:

 

Standard (non Cooper) seats

Mini Super wheels with the full width hubcap

Wavy pattern Austin grill

Austin badging

 

9k3vy2wSpsIF8ejNh-h6zqxSFl5rteJ9mVlZELL0

 

Once again Motobitz came up trumps with front seats, wheels and Austin badge from their Mini Countryman kit. Rear seat will have to be converted from the kits one. I thought I might need a standard steering wheel (again from Motobitz) but the Revell kit already has one.

 

I am indebted to Britmodeller member GeeBee who very kindly supplied me with a couple of Austin grills that he had created for another project so no more excuses, time to get on with it!

 

There will be other problems to overcome – mainly the engine will have to be de-cooperised, including converting to single carb, lose the oil cooler, standard exhaust manifold etc plus the standard mini would have a ‘pudding stirrer’ gear stick so the remote change extension will have to go but no doubt there will be other changes. I know there are plenty of old mini enthusiasts on here who will no doubt keep me pointed in the right direction!

 

I have decided to use the Revell mini rather than the Tamiya (even though Gee Bees grilles were designed to fit the Tamiya) largely because I have never built the Revell one but have done a couple of Tamiyas over the years. I don’t intend to cover every last bit of the build but rather just cover anything that needs changing to make the standard mini. If anybody has made the Revell mini before the instructions show fitting the inner wings at the same time as the engine is fitted and I would be interested to know if it is possible to fit the engine after fitting the inner wings/firewall to simplify chassis painting.

 

I have also acquired a few figure kits to see if it is possible to convert them into Jeanie, Jeff Randall and Marty Hopkirk but that Is by no means essential!

  • Like 8
Link to comment
Share on other sites

What a great project! I have to admit I do not usually drop into the Vehicle section here but this caught my attention. Randall and Hopkirk was a staple of mine way back when and have happy memories of it as a programme. I wonder if you can get Jeff's white Victor as a kit?

 

Good luck with this one,

 

Ray

Link to comment
Share on other sites

23 minutes ago, Ray S said:

What a great project! I have to admit I do not usually drop into the Vehicle section here but this caught my attention. Randall and Hopkirk was a staple of mine way back when and have happy memories of it as a programme. I wonder if you can get Jeff's white Victor as a kit?

 

Good luck with this one,

 

Ray

You can get the Victor in 1/32nd scale as an aftermarket resin bodyshell only for slot racing, converted from the Airfix Victor estate and I am about halfway through doing it as Jeff's Victor RXD 996F plus I have the Airfix 1/32nd mini to go with it!

  • Like 4
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Rather than doing a ‘blow by blow’ of how to put together a Revell mini (I’m sure you are can handle that) I will be keeping this just to what is involved in either improving the detail on the mini or what is necessary to convert it to a mk1 Austin Super.

 

I started by assembling the engine block – there is inevitably a join right in the middle of the sump fins so these have to be re-cut.

 

PRKJ6AcSfg11aPoOmh-wXHITymZg54en3Q_bfCiP

 

 

Next is to decide on the engine colour: BMC A series engines of this era were usually painted green but what shade? Internet show almost as many different colours used as there are owners but officially it is BS381c223 middle bronze green but I think (from memory, been a long time since I fiddled with an A series engine) it looks more like BS381c222 light bronze green so I did a sampler with the greens I have laying around.

 

ITcivYBTTBNslSZvS_2_o305snvRD_bqYWn2xqN2

 

I also posted this in general discussion and Black Knight suggests Humbrol 150 but I am also drawn to Humbrol 80.

 

The wiper motor is cast into the firewall so I have made another one and carved off the original.

 

VAKX4flPg9MLMllzCnQzR9UtqHj-TfwI2pALes29

 

While in the firewall/bulkhead area the instructions say that the bulkhead and inner wings need to be assembled around the engine as it goes in but I have decided to assemble the engine bay first for ease of painting and I think (famous last words) I can just wiggle the engine in at the same time as the radiator. Time may well prove me wrong...

 

The front wings have fairly pronounced mould witness lines that need removing and it doesn’t have the seams where the wings join the windscreen area so these had to be carved in.

 

6SrLUbiqce_kkhPxgfzGMEi72ngRFEGfYM9SJjKp

 

 

Now onto actual 850 Super conversion stuff – first the seats.

 

81PUspWrxGuGFgLQqaAemV9KLMJ5gak5ejaOY8NV

 

Shown are (L – R) Revell Cooper, Tamiya cooper and Motobitz mini countryman. I will be going with the Motobitz ones and will have to convert the back seat to match.

 

Existing seat mounts will need removing and I think I will get away with altering the runners on the Motobitz ones. Slightly concerned at this stage as the Revell seats are a bit smaller and also obviously mounted well towards the centre so I hope there is enough room when the door panels are in. Remote gear change hole will also need filling in as the 850 has the long ‘pudding stirrer’ gear stick.

 

IH7mPKfuS3noqLFR8KHn2xPP5dzLIvjleZAHoYak

 

 

As suggested by Motobitz I have fitted a plate of 0.25 plasticard where their standard Austin badge transfer will go (the one in the kit is a cooper one) after filling in the original mounting hole.

 

6SGJ0WWX4oM8XB6kEn6EmRZ_1AKqDlQY3uZla9SV

 

Austin grill was kindly supplied by GeeBee but I have been wondering if I could add the moustache pieces by using those on either the Revell or Fujimi grills.

 

87Dnnm_skq3D6vLwIaSBBvD8W78aU2JiPPDvuWeA

 

Both the other grills are a little larger so it won’t be as simple as cutting the edges off of both the Austin and the kit grill and marrying them together but I have a spare Austin grill so I might give it a go. Otherwise it will be just taking the bottom moustache pieces and adding them on.

 

Lastly I have started on the mounting of the Motobitz mini wheels

 

JB3RPFO73sCgGjCYE6seIMid2WgTuvVxOxUfdzaX

 

The Motobitz wheels have a boss with a spindle on and I have started by drilling a corresponding hole in the end of the kit stub axles for now. There is also a larger boss which is about the same size as the kit stubs so I should be able to use some tube to reinforce.

 

leEaujMeFCSDLYweJeHSRqGRfFbYqY-9fqYbf6QH

 

Wheels temporarily fitted – track looks a bit wide, wheels should be more inside the arches. Track on early cars according to the Haynes manual scales out at 50mm so I will have to cut down the stubs carefully until it is right.

 

Lovely spraying day today but not got everything ready that I wanted to spray! Should be able to do some of the chassis parts though and am trying Army Painter matt black primer as I don’t seem to be able to get my first choice Citadel Chaos Black anywhere!

 

  • Like 5
Link to comment
Share on other sites

2 hours ago, onethritysecond said:

but I am also drawn to Humbrol 80.

 

That looks good to me too FWIW, no good me checking ours though, the block is black.... :)

 

Good start so far, looking forward to seeing this come together!

 

2 hours ago, onethritysecond said:

so I hope there is enough room when the door panels are in.

 

Just like real life isn't it - we've had great fun trying to get FIA approved competition seats to fit in ours....!!

 

Keith

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

I'd go with Humbrol 80 as well.  Much like Keith, it's been a while since I played with a green A Series engine.  Mine are red or black, depending on capacity. 

Interesting to see the Hydrolastic pipes in the last of your images.  That wasn't introduced until the Mk2 Minis, IIRC.

Excellent work thus far.

Trevor

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

19 hours ago, klubman01 said:

I'd go with Humbrol 80 as well.  Much like Keith, it's been a while since I played with a green A Series engine.  Mine are red or black, depending on capacity. 

Interesting to see the Hydrolastic pipes in the last of your images.  That wasn't introduced until the Mk2 Minis, IIRC.

Excellent work thus far.

Trevor

Hi Trevor,

I'm going to go with the 80 I think.

Hydrolastic came in in 1964 on the saloons (but never on the estates and vans I think) so is bang on for Jeanie's mini being a 64 on a B plate. Having said that, I hadn't noticed whether it had hydrolastic or not!

 

Chris

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hi Chris.  I stand corrected - you are absolutely right.  Hydrolastic was introduced in 1964.  I've just looked it up in The Complete Catalogue of the Mini by Chris Rees (an invaluable reference, by the way).  I've never owned a "wet" Mini.  All mine over the years have been dry.

Anyway, keep up the good work on this build.

Trevor

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

First thing to say is that I was (unfortunately) correct in thinking that you shouldn’t attach the inner wings and firewall/bulkhead before fitting the engine! I am going to have real trouble fitting the engine now assembly is under way, to the extent that I might cut the firewall out again. I think having the inner wings attached is probably ok but I wouldn’t even count on that!

 

I have altered the track to the correct 50mm for standard minis. Black is ‘Army Painter’ matt black primer, which is not as good as Citadel Chaos Black (never seems to fully dry for one thing) but it all I can get in the current Chaos Black famine.

 

EKAqv1znzJj3iov4coZ65EKfwTCCktvLqvK2rFNE

 

I ended up cutting most of the kit’s stub axles off and then fitted some Evergreen tube over what was left. The tube needed opening out slightly at the wheel end. It is also necessary to reduce the size of the brake plates for the wheels to fit over. I found it easier to open up the wheels instead.

Picture probably tells it better than I can:

 

mh-Xp3509uKtGPzpb_Rpna8tAC8VmnChh79ah_OH

 

Although it largely won’t be seen as it is behind the engine the exhaust manifold needed ‘de-tuning’ by removing the long centre branch and a new inlet manifold made. The kit manifold comes with an emissions evaporation system thing (diaphragm and pipe leading to a catch tank) but, as far as I can tell, this was only on the Coopers but it is hard to find images of unmolested early minis that haven’t been Cooperised.

Single SU carburettor was cut from the kit’s twin carbs. This is the second time I fitted it, which is actually a bit too low, but it was the only way I could leave room for the air filter.

 

8gxxs6Sh6duFg2sppdeKippMrpogvg6MFdafhsIh

 

AZAuWFjUkBT-XWR4jO6PcpSJZZJT_qeaT1TFL42T

 

UO3Vp1Tp2aL3049BEyhGNLE67GboegXoNAgql8LE

 

Air filter being converted from the kit’s twin air filter – to be honest it would have been easier to start this from scratch but this way I can use the kit’s wing nut. It is going to be difficult to fit the air filter under the bonnet (hence why I had to lower the carb) plus I may need to cheat and fix something to the firewall to hold it up as I think the manifold/carb may be too flimsy to take the weight.

 

zm-sgiyFrTpMduyXIr1K0O3KciZJ6IWbIx85l7e5

 

Motobitz seats have been adapted to fit by the simple expedient of cutting the mountings of the kit floor and chopping out a bit from the seat rails. I was wondering why the kit seats were mounted so inboard but they need to be to clear the door pockets etc. Motobitz seats sit slightly higher than the kit ones but I think this will be ok.

 

J_BoWnbeEwdSHceuOl8taHK4dvYmSrKbfvZqtca-

 

Lastly, after much cutting up of spare grills I have decided it is going to be better (as GeeBee originally suggested to me) to fill in the edges of the grill opening to fit the slightly narrower Austin grill and just add the bottom moustache pieces separately.

 

okgQV9BxVzpxO2IIJDTAEomK0sZN3kJ4bTVGJQtY

 

 

 

 

  • Like 8
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Few bits of small progress on the mini this week. Finally, after much fiddling and re-positioning, got the single carb and air filter to fit into the engine bay – but only just!

 

_vka8XYxs0T7-spFKEveLU3rm5NDW_jNoYn-77i4

 

5HqTCNUT5mjKOyW6Ul2Zij68TrJHtD4kOAzAhr6U

IoG_-MwACmL9Rbt8xO-sCexRwFMN9QYQXutJu2R8

 

The engine was painted Humbrol 80 in the end and weathered a bit as the real car was a film studio hack so wouldn’t have been the best looked after of vehicles.

The engine will just fit in with the engine bay already assembled but that is before the radiator has gone in so it’s going to be tight.

 

I also managed to accidentally drill right through the air filter so have lost the wind nut, which was the original point of adapting the kit’s air filter rather than starting from scratch.

 

Those of us who are familiar with 60s BMC cars will have noticed that the brake and clutch master cylinders have their filler caps merged in with the upright cylinder and also that the kit instructions tell you to paint all of the sticking up bits white when only the filler cap should be. I cut the cap part off and drilled a hole for some thin rod but actually it was a little too large so doesn’t look that much different to how it started. I have drilled the ends of the master cylinders to take some hydraulic pipes later in the build.

 

KMJghewFcUOxpB2ZNqctqPx_kjY2oVhN7gWQ1Oll

tmt9818E5y-yMS92i2ekefzwZAGnJa3fLeL5A17O

 

As it was a sunny weekend managed to get some primer and Tartan red on the body parts.

 

7BnuOgNDU6jjUqvQm5OOmGRhwjKAdQTWiH5Aastn

 

Cars of this era wouldn’t have been undersealed at the factory so, unless it was taken up as a dealer option, most cars would have been body colour underneath so I have gone with a Tartan red floor pan.

 

AnZg5m4VcNVhMGZRBbbNNxkO5MkjPqdHYEUau_41

 

This week I need to convert the back seat to cheaper specification and also decide whether I am going to make and wire a distributor, as the kit does come with a sort of oversized wired distributor.

 

 

  • Like 9
Link to comment
Share on other sites

That's looking good. From memory, the air filter sat on top of the SU carb with the dashpot sticking out of the air filter housing. That would give you s bit more under bonnet space.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

That looks lovely. As a recent Mini owner (1275 Open Classic with electric sunroof), I'd suggest that to be really accurate, you need some rust holes in the footwell. Like the kind you can see the road through. I think they were installed at the factory. 😉

  • Haha 4
Link to comment
Share on other sites

On 18/04/2021 at 23:59, Davie said:

That's looking good. From memory, the air filter sat on top of the SU carb with the dashpot sticking out of the air filter housing. That would give you s bit more under bonnet space.

Don't know about later cars but on the early 850 engines the air filter is behind the dashpot, like here (from aronline.com)

engine-bay.jpg

  • Like 2
Link to comment
Share on other sites

This week I spent some time making a side entry (or I suppose that should be side exit?) distributor and wiring up the plug leads.

High resolution photos are not good for the ego – what looks fine to the naked eye suddenly has all sorts of glue residue and parts that need touching up! Plug caps look too big too.

 

bhhQanvp9n2zeoVXB2KCpVozB3tYG8BdvJzQ7iC3

 

Engine has had a matt coat applied and pipe stubs have been added to the rocker cover and air filter box for the engine breather hose. I may have to cut the downpipe off to be able to fit the engine in the bay.

 

Rear seat has been downgraded by carving out sections where the new ribbing has to go and I tried an experiment – on the left I scored the rib pattern into 0.25mm plasticard and on the right used separate strips, didn’t make a lot of difference for the extra work and a lot slower. Seat awaiting final finishing before painting.

 

hSKKEgW5o5c8LWufCpLTAHzyAmM7bHRCekXFHV8B

 

6G-SOBQfsnClhESaTtsth9tj136icPWINcYNS_WH

 

Bodyshell has had a final polish and the floor pan has had a coat of matt varnish to dull it down before weathering.

 

ULserVOLXC4RmnCNY7A0zUncqwKgiEcJZqx4Pq61

 

Most of the necessary conversion/scratch work to make a standard mini has been completed now so nearly at the assembly stage, just a few bits of painting to finish off.

 

Chris

 

  • Like 6
Link to comment
Share on other sites

I have been painting the interior this week and have been having a bit of trouble getting proper coverage with the Humbrol matt scarlet that I used for the interior parts, as can be seen in the following pictures. I was using a hairy stick and had to put so many coats on to get coverage that it ended up cracking in places. Being the interior though it won’t really show!

Coopers had an interior handle to open the door but regular minis had a pull cord, that I have added here from guitar string and the sleeving off fine electrical wire. The kit also came with transfers for the seat belts, which I have used but am not too convinced by. Chromework still needs a bit of tidying.

 

GjsOhXzjsPNzEPS_DQGa42BV949uAq3rnzxEp7ee

 

Pudding stirrer gear lever has been added by repositioning the mounting position and butchering the kit’s gear stick. I still need to alter/remove the remote change linkage for under the car.

 

W-g59soc9aACFjuo8AmL-pV7Ix014DJsCkoQ8zP3

 

The finished interior – seats have been given a bit of a dirty look as the car was a studio hack and then given a satin coat to look more like vinyl.

 

gHpHoBITYOW_oEWplouivCnn6F8DH0ywkzq5_twv

 

The instructions tell you to paint the window surrounds moulded into the front and rear screens chrome silver but British cars of this era tended to just have a slim chrome trim inset into the windscreen rubber and this is how I have tried to re-create this:

 

Screens carefully masked and then painted Tamiya rubber black (on reflection it may have been better to use an enamel based black as the Molotow chrome pens are also alcohol based so can tend to dissolve the black).

 

718izNiLuUisnVh1YFbVjC-FDlYw2IUhikUYI9VA

 

Edge of a fairly fat Molotow chrome pen run around the edge, trying to leave some of the black visible on the screen side. The kit also tells you to paint the frames of the side windows chrome, which is correct for the back side windows but on non coopers the door frames should be body colour, as can be seen by the frame at the back, done with a red paint pen – again alcohol based so tended to mix with the black.

 

iyFuUEqHJh3XzHH5sdQXZ8ZYBzBFTJVusfZlwJCN

 

Lastly run around the very outer edge with a black sharpie, trying to leave a thin line of chrome – takes a bit of practice!

 

K0Rs3pVjFUkjpsV6_him8CBT5_J1paUctg44hzjO

 

Rear screen temporarily in place to attempt to show the effect.

 

7ApX2XxcPONqEzPNRVEBb_cvTZIL2KYcw9ubMR9C

 

Engine in place in the chassis and very crowded it is in there too! It was very hard to fit with the firewalls all in place and is mainly held in place by sheer force of personality! If I did this again I would follow the kit instructions!

Pipe work has been added to the clutch and brake master cylinders but it just peters out once out of site.

 

5zrjHxsoZgFoq3FoYkKAFxOKXFtZtiqs-SDUxvhA

 

Finally engine shown in place with the body on – air filter only just fits..

 

 

viUIG4zYqM8Y9ONSnbi5lp--FeEnFGAxATgJwZcG

 

I thought I had done all of the downgrade conversion work but still have to make a new gear change mechanism, finish the grille and make some number plates, plus there is no doubt other bits I have over looked but getting into the final stretch.

 

Chris

  • Like 10
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
×
×
  • Create New...