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Snargasher - Finished


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Thanks gents! Glad it’s keeping you entertained. I had an hour or so to fill tonight so I’ve got the canopy framing done:

91-A74737-83-BA-423-C-80-EF-0-AEC09-A7-F
 

It doesn’t look quite so bad with the Mk 1 eyeball 🙄

 

...and I have printed off some custom registrations on some laser decal paper. The font is accurate, in that it’s almost impossible to tell the difference between “O” and “D”!

11-D33-A8-C-9690-4-EC2-97-E3-AEB4-EC3008

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Decals are on, with only one casualty:

F23-F307-F-328-B-4-D0-C-BF17-F87-A3970-B
 

The Xtradecal A/A1 roundels I bought at SMW 2018, after checking carefully that the red dot was aligned, turn out to - er - have misaligned red dots. This is particularly noticeable in the tiny roundels, like the ones on here for instance, because the misalignment is a higher percentage of the diameter. I’ve carefully scraped away some of the red ink on one side and added a tiny extra lip on the other. Time will tell.

 

The wingtips have significant double curvature and the roundels seem to be suffering accordingly. A case for stepping away and letting Decalfix do its magic...

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Hi Adrian,

 I bought some Xtradecal C/C1 roundels from Hannants a couple of years ago and they were out of register - when I spoke to them they said the entire print run was faulty but they would not be reprinting until they had sold all of that batch - they did of course offer me a refund. A/A1 are also problems at times and in spite of supposedly improved printing techniques since the old Frog register problem there still seems to be a case for seperate centre dots.

 

Pete

Edited by PeterB
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16 minutes ago, PeterB said:

they said the entire print run was faulty but they would not be reprinting until they had sold all of that batch

Good job they don’t make cars, medicines or airliners, I suppose...

 

I love separate dots!

 

Regards,

Adrian

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1 hour ago, PeterB said:

when I spoke to them they said the entire print run was faulty but they would not be reprinting until they had sold all of that batch

Obviously no QC in action at the printers, is it still Microscale do the Xtradecal stuff? :(

Adrian, that is looking flipping awesome, its a neat little ship, it would have been quite a wee goer in its day. A most impressive & enjoyable WiP. :) 

Steve.

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10 hours ago, stevehnz said:

Obviously no QC in action at the printers, is it still Microscale do the Xtradecal stuff? :(

Adrian, that is looking flipping awesome, its a neat little ship, it would have been quite a wee goer in its day. A most impressive & enjoyable WiP. :) 

Steve.

 

Hello Steve, as it happened I was looking through my transfer bank yesterday and saw an Xtradecal sheet which was not Microscale printed. I went to look for it, and do you think I could find it? Well, I was seriously wondering if I was having cognition problems, so I made myself a cup of tea, sat down, and looked again! 

 

And there it was! Xtradecal sheet X72-111, RAF Roundels 1920-1939. In fact, I found I had two sheets. One was in a paper sleeve with a clear window, and there, proudly on show in the gap between the 55" roundels and the 72.5" ones, it said Printed by Cartograf.com, made in Italy. All those roundels look spot on for registration. The other set was in a clear ziplock bag, no text in that gap, and the roundels are very slightly skew-wiff, most noticeably on the 25" ones for the Siskin.

 

I hope that helps, but I think the paper sleeve ones are older issues.

 

Ray

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I've long thought the paper sleeve packed decals were the Microscale ones, mainly due to the similarity in the packing style & while not sure, the zip lock bagged ones were by Cartograf so it looks as though I've been mistaken on that, unless you mixed them up at some stage. ;) :D

Steve.

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6 hours ago, stevehnz said:

I've long thought the paper sleeve packed decals were the Microscale ones, mainly due to the similarity in the packing style & while not sure, the zip lock bagged ones were by Cartograf so it looks as though I've been mistaken on that, unless you mixed them up at some stage. ;) :D

Steve.

 

It is quite possible, I know me!

 

Ray

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On 3/28/2021 at 2:13 PM, AdrianMF said:

Don’t even think it:

CF56-B401-A481-4725-A4-C2-806-DBEE6968-D

Starfix!!!!!!!

 

Seriously though, I never knew this was a ‘thing’ but from your initial description, it sounds like an elder sibling of the Desford. 
 

Every day is a school day here at Britmodeller Secondary Modern.

 

Trevor

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27 minutes ago, Max Headroom said:

Starfix!!!!!!!

Wasn't quite what pooped popped into my head...

 

There was an RS2 design that was dropped, the RS3 "Desford" that appeared in the article kindly posted by @matford earlier in the thread, and I guess the RS4 was the RS3 modified to have the prone/photo nose. It's amazing that it is reportedly still in existence in a shed somewhere in Leicestershire.

 

Regards,

Adrian

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This is a fabulous WIP! :worthy: 

Quite a few excellent building techniques to learn. 

 

The name could be straight out of HHGG--40 years in advance. 

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26 minutes ago, dnl42 said:

HHGG

Indeed, or a Warhammer colour (Snargasher Purple, anyone?), or something out of Terry Pratchett or GoT! Apparently it appears in a book of WWII slang defined as a trainer that is ill-used by student pilots.

 

Regards,

Adrian

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8 hours ago, AdrianMF said:

I could always take up albino mushroom farming

 

Please could you tell us your secret to forming the spinners/caps?

Or will you keep me in the dark and feed me b... ....

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Well, lacking any albino bull manure, I have to tell you that the secret is all in this picture:

C3474-D3-B-51-F2-4-E42-8-A8-F-68-FF76-C8
 

The bamboo skewer end has been shaped to look like a spinner. Bit of trial and error there because you don’t know what it’s going to look like after being moulded, so keep the file handy! The round holes scribing template is a source of - er - round holes (heat resistant). The pliers hold little squares of 20 thou plastic card and my daughter’s cooking blowtorch provides a source of heat. Too lazy to go downstairs!

 

Arrange template over some paint tins to expose the correct size hole. I moved to a larger hole than I thought I needed because the plastic catches on the edges. Hold plastic in pliers, apply heat until it goes floppy, place over hole and shove skewer in. Keep still until it cools down. Run blade around moulding. Sand moulding down until it looks level. Check, then repeat until really level.

 

It’s surprising how much unevenness you can get away with because the brain expects them both to be the same!

 

Regards,

Adrian

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4 minutes ago, Jinxman said:

blowtorch

Good point! In my defence I use only water and water-based paint products, all brushed, and the blowtorch goes straight back in its own draw compartment with the safety on as soon as the end has cooled down. 

 

Regards,

Adrian

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