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Airfix 1/72 Spitfire Mk1a - first 'proper' build for a novice


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20210326_162856

 

20210326_162826 20210326_162843

 

First go at airbrushing and chipping, still plenty to learn and improve on, but this is only my 4th kit after learning the ropes on some Airfix starter kits. 

May finish the kit off with a Matt varnish, but not looking too glossy at the moment.

Must say, this hobby is addictive, planning next build already.

 

Andy 

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6 minutes ago, Vinnie said:

Very nice looking model, Andy. Perhaps looking a little glossy. A gentle spray with a matt finish should do the trick but mask the canopy first.

Will do, I thought I might get away with it but will do a Matt spray tomorrow. 

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2 hours ago, AndyK2479 said:

Decals are a little disappointing on the wing uppers, still getting to grips with decals and Decalfix, may look at another option.

You have done a cracking job of the rest of it though. 

It is worth trying microsol and microset rather than decalfix. I have never managed to make decal fix actually work.

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1 hour ago, Vince1159 said:

Nice job and welcome to BM,Spit's Hurri's and 109's,you can never have to many....

For some reason I’ve had my head turned by Korean War fighters and/or WWII Pacific Theatre carrier borne aircraft, both USN and IJN.

Still got an Airfix Lancaster BIII in my rapidly expanding stash though!!!

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1 minute ago, OutcastJoel said:

You have done a cracking job of the rest of it though. 

It is worth trying microsol and microset rather than decalfix. I have never managed to make decal fix actually work.

I’ve ordered some VMS soft/set, will try microsol/set as well. 

Thanks for the tip.

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2 hours ago, AndyK2479 said:

Decals are a little disappointing on the wing uppers, still getting to grips with decals and Decalfix, may look at another option.

hot water can help soften decals, as can using Kleer as a decal bedding method, 

https://www.britmodeller.com/forums/index.php?/topic/235038987-bedding-decals-in-klear-future-or-equivalent/

 

Some more fragile decals won't like hot water, Japanese (IE Tamiya) NEED hot water, the glue is heat activated.      Even now, a hot damp cloth may get those upperwing roundels to bed down better, though may just end up breaking something.

 

2 hours ago, AndyK2479 said:

First go at airbrushing and chipping, still plenty to learn and improve on, but this is only my 4th kit after learning the ropes on some Airfix starter kits. 

Great for a 4th kit.  May I suggest looking at more care on the upper fuselage seam,  though it has been said that this kit can need the alignment pin holes enlarging for a better alignment,  ie the two halves may not line that well without a little tweaking.    

 

A far more holistic approach to model construction is something I wish I had known a long time ago, looking at putty smeared things from my youth. 

By this, I mean, often by some forethought, dry fitting and  subsequent sanding, scraping and other adjustment,  a far better fit , and therefore finish can be obtained. 

This is an example I really enjoyed reading, as there is a a 'consensus' that the cowling parts don't fit well,   they don't without some fettling, but do with some care, I think the forethought and adjustments described in this thread are rather elegant solutions to the problems.

 

I think a big part of the problem is pictorial instructions, and lack of stress that certain aspects in many modern models need to be really precisely done,  the consequences of not getting this right often not being noticed until later. 

 

 I also quite often see complaints about this by modellers who blame the kit, rather than not paying attention (though many older kits were far more forgiving  in how they were built) 

 

In this I'd also include canopy fitting, well worth seeing how it fits early on, when it can be adjusted, rather than later, when it can make a mess.  (and how much can be seen before adding masses of detail you'll never see :rolleyes: ) 

 

Finally, it appears you to have used Humbrol 30 for the green, it's far too blue and why Airfix keep recommending it is most likely it's on the instruction sheets...    (As an aside, Humbrol 30 was too blue in the mid 1970's, back when Airfix made their own paint, and their own green, was not a bad match....I digress)

 

Companies specify what paint they have in their own ranges,  they are not always very good matches..... plenty of long discussions this here... 

 

Points above aside,  overall a good build, excellent for your 4th model, great paint finish,  :goodjob:   

 

Glad you are enjoying the hobby and hope the links and suggestions help with future builds.

 

cheers

T

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36 minutes ago, IanC said:

Nice job. But on the next one don't forget the modelling basics - rub down those fuselage join lines to give a nice smooth finish! 

I did think to give sanding the fuselage a go, got to build my confidence that I’m not going to totally square it off!

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29 minutes ago, Troy Smith said:

hot water can help soften decals, as can using Kleer as a decal bedding method, 

https://www.britmodeller.com/forums/index.php?/topic/235038987-bedding-decals-in-klear-future-or-equivalent/

 

Some more fragile decals won't like hot water, Japanese (IE Tamiya) NEED hot water, the glue is heat activated.      Even now, a hot damp cloth may get those upperwing roundels to bed down better, though may just end up breaking something.

 

Great for a 4th kit.  May I suggest looking at more care on the upper fuselage seam,  though it has been said that this kit can need the alignment pin holes enlarging for a better alignment,  ie the two halves may not line that well without a little tweaking.    

 

A far more holistic approach to model construction is something I wish I had known a long time ago, looking at putty smeared things from my youth. 

By this, I mean, often by some forethought, dry fitting and  subsequent sanding, scraping and other adjustment,  a far better fit , and therefore finish can be obtained. 

This is an example I really enjoyed reading, as there is a a 'consensus' that the cowling parts don't fit well,   they don't without some fettling, but do with some care, I think the forethought and adjustments described in this thread are rather elegant solutions to the problems.

 

I think a big part of the problem is pictorial instructions, and lack of stress that certain aspects in many modern models need to be really precisely done,  the consequences of not getting this right often not being noticed until later. 

 

 I also quite often see complaints about this by modellers who blame the kit, rather than not paying attention (though many older kits were far more forgiving  in how they were built) 

 

In this I'd also include canopy fitting, well worth seeing how it fits early on, when it can be adjusted, rather than later, when it can make a mess.  (and how much can be seen before adding masses of detail you'll never see :rolleyes: ) 

 

Finally, it appears you to have used Humbrol 30 for the green, it's far too blue and why Airfix keep recommending it is most likely it's on the instruction sheets...    (As an aside, Humbrol 30 was too blue in the mid 1970's, back when Airfix made their own paint, and their own green, was not a bad match....I digress)

 

Companies specify what paint they have in their own ranges,  they are not always very good matches..... plenty of long discussions this here... 

 

Points above aside,  overall a good build, excellent for your 4th model, great paint finish,  :goodjob:   

 

Glad you are enjoying the hobby and hope the links and suggestions help with future builds.

 

cheers

T

Cheers, Troy, I did realise when I put the fuselage halves together that they were slightly out, rookie mistake that I won’t make again. 

I used Humbrol Clear Gloss, 3 coats through the airbrush, and let cure for 48 hours before adding the decals, with Decalfix, but the roundels just won’t sit right for me. 

It’s all a learning curve, but I’m really enjoying it. 

Thanks for the hint, links and tips. 

 

Andy

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35 minutes ago, AndyK2479 said:

I did think to give sanding the fuselage a go, got to build my confidence that I’m not going to totally square it off!

 

Yes, that's something to be wary of. Have a try with some sanding sticks, applying light pressure to get the worst off. Or just the edge of a blade. Then you can finish off with a flexible sanding sponge. Or just a bit of normal wet & dry paper. You'll soon get the hang of it. 

 

It can be very satisfying getting an invisible join between plastic parts! 

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3 hours ago, AndyK2479 said:

Cheers, Troy, I did realise when I put the fuselage halves together that they were slightly out, rookie mistake that I won’t make again. 

I used Humbrol Clear Gloss, 3 coats through the airbrush, and let cure for 48 hours before adding the decals, with Decalfix, but the roundels just won’t sit right for me. 

It’s all a learning curve, but I’m really enjoying it. 

Thanks for the hint, links and tips. 

 

Andy

 

For a first proper build, that's turned out really well :) 

 

As for Decalfix - most probably have their own preferences for decal solutions, but I don't think there's anything inherently wrong with it.  It works well in my own (limited) experience, so if you already have some I'd say persevere with it for the time being.

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9 hours ago, AndyK2479 said:

I did think to give sanding the fuselage a go, got to build my confidence that I’m not going to totally square it off!

 

You'll get there.  You might ruin a kit or two, so what, c'est la guerre, it's a few quid you won't be able to spend on drink or Mars bars or unwholesome chat rooms. 🤔

 

I'll repeat Ian's suggestion you also try scraping seams, either with a hobby knife or one of the scraping tools that have recently become all the rage.  If you can get a little melted plastic to ooze out in a raised line along a seam, you can mostly avoid later filling.

 

Great result for your fourth model, Andy.  👍    It looks as though you've got airbrushing down.  A better decal solvent will bump you up to the next level.

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Nice work considering your novice status. Some great advice from the previous comments. I even learned something new and I've been in the game since the early seventies. 

 

On tip, have you mastered the art of stretched sprue? That radio wire is very thick. Stretched sprue can produce very scale like wires. 

 

Well done. 

 

Edited by noelh
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Good stuff for a 4th and lots of good info to sort through. I'm building its bigger brothers at the moment and the topside roundels are a struggle as well. I started with Mr. Mark Setter & Softer and have since started to apply the artillery....Polly Scale Softener. This stuff is so old that it doesn't show up in Google Images for me. The only thing I can add is, for a more realistic antenna, get this....

https://www.uschivdr.com/products-in-detail/rigging/

A very small dab of CA where you want to place it and it will stick like a frightened limpet to a rock plus its very stretchy

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For the first model...excellent.

When i remember mine (some 50 years ago) this is science fiction.

Great start and perfection will come with every newly built model......so go ahead.

Looking forward to see your next build  👍

regards Djordje

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I'm in disagreement about humbrol 30 for the dark green, it does depend on the varnish obviously but I think it's OK. I built models with my grandfather who was a flight instructor during ww2 and his wife who worked at Boscombe down during the same period.  I went on to work on warbirds . I know our own perceptions of colour are all different and vary in scale/airbrush/hairy brush but humbrol 30 is the best there is 

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