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Mercedes Benz 300 SL Gullwing Fifth overall of Mille Miglia 1955 edition, driven by John Fitch, based on Tamiya Kit 1:24 scale


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Good evening (night ?) gentlemen :)

 

The postman delivered my GB order today, so, no excuse for procrastination .

 

Therefore, I've  finished the loom with its 4 holes on the top, and nickel plated it :)

 

51119384032_2b5d1faeb8_c.jpg   51119384082_82ceb06292_c.jpg

 

Then, I've scratched 6 spark plugs with their wiring, using 0.28 mm black electrical wire and shorts sections of 0.5 mm brass tube.

The wires have been threaded into the tubes  and glued, and the outer part of the brass tubes have been painted white, to simulate the white ceramic part of the plugs.


51119955056_6d12b962df_c.jpg  51119704224_db5aa6255e_c.jpg

 

Next, each set has been glued in place on the engine block.

 

51119863168_f24fdb2bcb_b.jpg   51119955326_558670f68b_b.jpg

 

Last, the loom has been glued on the cam cover, and the wires of the 6 spark plug threaded  into the 6 holes of the loom.

 

51119863313_d60e1dffe2_c.jpg   51119863323_4a1e315818_c.jpg

 

It was the easier part of this delicate job 😎

 

It's after that that troubles began.

 

I had to wire the 7 cables which come out the loom, on the front side of the engine, onto the 7 holes of the distributor.
It has been hell ! a purgatory !

Not only because the cables are very tiny and resist if you want to bend such short sections, but also because they are black. As the rest of the area where I worked, so, very difficult to see.

 

I fought no less than 3 hours under magnifying glasses before I mange to to a clean job.... BUT ....YEAHHHHH !   It's done  !

 

51119863223_8fe0062a34_b.jpg   51119384092_7418641b0d_b.jpg

 

51119704259_28ea91ce9a_b.jpg   51119704279_389eba2cff_b.jpg

 

You can see guys, some additional long copper wire:

- 1 comes out the advance adjuster, beside the distributor, and will go around the front of the engine block to reach later the front part of the intake manifold

- the second comes out the injection pump and  will go around the rear of the engine block, to join later the front part of the intake manifold

 

On the photos below, I've test fitted the exhaust manifold and the intake manifold on the right side of the engine block, to let you get an idea of what would result of all that stuffs :)

 

51119955301_b9f0c4b72e_b.jpg.  51119384162_e4cc542318_b.jpg

 

A lot of plumbing has still to be done...

 

Stay tuned if you like 🤪

 

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8 hours ago, silver911 said:

All looks very good mate 👍

 

Hope you thought it was worth the wait for that 0.28 wire :)

 

Ron

Thanks so much Ron :)

Yes it was, Ive ordered 5 meters of black, red and yellow. They still have a lack of flexibility when you want to bend them imho, but very useful for detailing a 1:24 scale model, given that it's quite exactly the right thickness to represent 7 mm plug leads

 

7 hours ago, ejboyd5 said:

I'm in awe.  

Thanks for the kind word, Edward...coming from you, it's still more valuable :)

 

7 hours ago, ejboyd5 said:

More work than maintaining the 1:1 model.

 It's precisely why I would prefer to own the 1:1 car 😉

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A tip for you...to make it easier and more flexible for short lengths (1/24)...strip the outer with a pair of wire strippers...then you can keep the inner for other wiring 😉

You can usually pull the outer off once you gently cut around the sleeving...for longer lengths.

 

Or maybe use this one.....https://www.componentshop.co.uk/0-2mm-32awg-super-fine-solderable-enamelled-copper-connecting-wire-black.html

 

Ron

Edited by silver911
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Morning chaps :)

 

Early morning job today.

 

I've put the 3 chromed caps over the cam cover. It's been difficult to remove the sprue residues under the caps, due to their very small size, but it was necessary in order to manage placing them correctly

Decals also have been placed on the cam cover.

And the exhaust pipes have been fixed.

 

51122399979_cc06339b48_b.jpg

 

Then I decided to improve the intake manifold, as I did for the first MB, but in an even better way.

 

So, I added small strap of BMF Aluminium over the black tubing to simulate the SERFLEX clamps.

And above all, I put BMF Aluminium on the top of the lower part of the intake manifold...

Why ?... because in reality there is 2 parts and not 1: the intake manifold strictly speaking , and between it and the exhaust manifold, a second part, a protective shield, that seems, on all the photos I saw on the Internet, to be  made stainless steel. Anyways, it look like stainless steel.

 

For instance:

 

51123481240_9a7f8bb71c_c.jpg   51122685026_0b456aa238_c.jpg

 

51122429774_8350109ae5_c.jpg

 

The addition of BMF create a 2 tone effect, and simulate the reality, hopefully.

Purists would say that on the real production car, it wasn't the case, and that the shield wasn't shiny at all ? Possibly !

What mattered for me, doing that, was to give the impression that there is 2 different parts, as on the real.

 

My interpretation:

 

51122127157_623eb51393_b.jpg

 

Last thing to do before installing the engine into the chassis, making the plumbing of the front part of the oil pan, while will join it to the bottom of the oil radiator

 

Stay tuned if you like :)

 

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Evening guys :)

 

Meanwhile, in the garage:

 

The radiator cooling propeller supplied  by Tamiya is quite flat and if it was real, it was probably not very useful , so I've drawn a new one with fusion.

Due to the process of 3D printing and its limits, I've exaggerated the thickness of its blades in order they get printed correctly.

The question is: what will I get.... be patient, it's going to take a while :)

 

51126170131_dd23dfdd43_c.jpg   51126158476_d940353b24_c.jpg

 

I've now 3 good reasons to put the printer into service: the vacuum canister, the Treadle-Vac, and the propeller...

 

Stay tuned for next steps :)

 

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