Mercedes Benz 300 SL Gullwing 5th overall of Mille Miglia 1955 edition, driven by John Fitch (based on Tamiya Kit 1:24 scale): FINISHED !

[CrazyCrank]

Good evening (night ?) gentlemen

 

The postman delivered my GB order today, so, no excuse for procrastination .

 

Therefore, I've  finished the loom with its 4 holes on the top, and nickel plated it

 

  

 

Then, I've scratched 6 spark plugs with their wiring, using 0.28 mm black electrical wire and shorts sections of 0.5 mm brass tube.

The wires have been threaded into the tubes  and glued, and the outer part of the brass tubes have been painted white, to simulate the white ceramic part of the plugs.

 

 

Next, each set has been glued in place on the engine block.

 

  

 

Last, the loom has been glued on the cam cover, and the wires of the 6 spark plug threaded  into the 6 holes of the loom.

 

  

 

It was the easier part of this delicate job 😎

 

It's after that that troubles began.

 

I had to wire the 7 cables which come out the loom, on the front side of the engine, onto the 7 holes of the distributor.
It has been hell ! a purgatory !

Not only because the cables are very tiny and resist if you want to bend such short sections, but also because they are black. As the rest of the area where I worked, so, very difficult to see.

 

I fought no less than 3 hours under magnifying glasses before I mange to to a clean job.... BUT ....YEAHHHHH !   It's done  !

 

  

 

  

 

You can see guys, some additional long copper wire:

- 1 comes out the advance adjuster, beside the distributor, and will go around the front of the engine block to reach later the front part of the intake manifold

- the second comes out the injection pump and  will go around the rear of the engine block, to join later the front part of the intake manifold

 

On the photos below, I've test fitted the exhaust manifold and the intake manifold on the right side of the engine block, to let you get an idea of what would result of all that stuffs

 

.  

 

A lot of plumbing has still to be done...

 

Stay tuned if you like 🤪

 

[silver911]

All looks very good mate 👍

 

Hope you thought it was worth the wait for that 0.28 wire

 

Ron

[ejboyd5]

I'm in awe.  More work than maintaining the 1:1 model.

[CrazyCrank]

8 hours ago, silver911 said:

All looks very good mate 👍

 

Hope you thought it was worth the wait for that 0.28 wire

 

Ron

Thanks so much Ron

Yes it was, Ive ordered 5 meters of black, red and yellow. They still have a lack of flexibility when you want to bend them imho, but very useful for detailing a 1:24 scale model, given that it's quite exactly the right thickness to represent 7 mm plug leads

 

7 hours ago, ejboyd5 said:

I'm in awe.  

Thanks for the kind word, Edward...coming from you, it's still more valuable

 

7 hours ago, ejboyd5 said:

More work than maintaining the 1:1 model.

 It's precisely why I would prefer to own the 1:1 car 😉

[silver911]

A tip for you...to make it easier and more flexible for short lengths (1/24)...strip the outer with a pair of wire strippers...then you can keep the inner for other wiring 😉

You can usually pull the outer off once you gently cut around the sleeving...for longer lengths.

 

Or maybe use this one.....https://www.componentshop.co.uk/0-2mm-32awg-super-fine-solderable-enamelled-copper-connecting-wire-black.html

 

Ron

Edited April 17, 2021 by silver911
added text

[CrazyCrank]

Morning chaps

 

Early morning job today.

 

I've put the 3 chromed caps over the cam cover. It's been difficult to remove the sprue residues under the caps, due to their very small size, but it was necessary in order to manage placing them correctly

Decals also have been placed on the cam cover.

And the exhaust pipes have been fixed.

 

 

Then I decided to improve the intake manifold, as I did for the first MB, but in an even better way.

 

So, I added small strap of BMF Aluminium over the black tubing to simulate the SERFLEX clamps.

And above all, I put BMF Aluminium on the top of the lower part of the intake manifold...

Why ?... because in reality there is 2 parts and not 1: the intake manifold strictly speaking , and between it and the exhaust manifold, a second part, a protective shield, that seems, on all the photos I saw on the Internet, to be  made stainless steel. Anyways, it look like stainless steel.

 

For instance:

 

  

 

 

The addition of BMF create a 2 tone effect, and simulate the reality, hopefully.

Purists would say that on the real production car, it wasn't the case, and that the shield wasn't shiny at all ? Possibly !

What mattered for me, doing that, was to give the impression that there is 2 different parts, as on the real.

 

My interpretation:

 

 

Last thing to do before installing the engine into the chassis, making the plumbing of the front part of the oil pan, while will join it to the bottom of the oil radiator

 

Stay tuned if you like

 

[silver911]

Staying tuned...like very much

 

Ron

 

 

[Pouln]

Same here. 👍

[Sabrejet]

Looks nice so far: a great way to convert a road car kit into something a bit more interesting

[CrazyCrank]

Evening guys

 

Meanwhile, in the garage:

 

The radiator cooling propeller supplied  by Tamiya is quite flat and if it was real, it was probably not very useful , so I've drawn a new one with fusion.

Due to the process of 3D printing and its limits, I've exaggerated the thickness of its blades in order they get printed correctly.

The question is: what will I get.... be patient, it's going to take a while

 

  

 

I've now 3 good reasons to put the printer into service: the vacuum canister, the Treadle-Vac, and the propeller...

 

Stay tuned for next steps

 

[CrazyCrank]

Afternoon chaps

 

Meanwhile in the garage....

 

I faced a lot of misadventures with 3D printing of the propellers particularly, and the Treadle-vacs too....I will skip the details 🤔

 

Finally, I've succeeded in getting correct prints and so correct parts.

I printed 15 propellers and got at the end only 5, because they are so fragile that several broke when cleaning and sanding them to remove the supports marks.

On the 5 that remain, 2 are quite perfect, the others just passable... to my eye indeed.

In reality, with the naked eye, one can't see the little defects.

 

A propeller, just after spraying grey primer:

 

 

 

And after a black coat, before Alclad Polished aluminium:

 

 

The treadle-vac, before paint touch ups for details:

 

 

And the vacuum canister:

 

  

 

It remains to add some details on the canister and the Treadle-Vac

 

See you soon for next episode

`

[silver911]

Those parts have turned out rather well Thierry...I do love such attention to detail 

 

Regards

 

Ron

[Brandy]

Those have printed nicely! They should be a big improvement once fitted.

 

Ian

[CrazyCrank]

Good evening gentlemen

 

The propeller of the cooling system has been fixed in place:

 

 

Tubing or not tubing.....that is the question 🤪

 

I've begun the plumbing of the water coolant radiator and the the oil coolant radiator

 

Oil plumbing: coming from the oil pan on the front of the bottom-engine, and from the oil pressure pump, 2 braided silver hoses

The first one will join the bottom of the oil radiator, and the second one the bottom of the oil reservoir.

 

  

 

On the radiators: 4 tubes

 

The first one is à 0.5 mm tube (scratched  from electrical wire) which start from the right side of the oil radiator's top, run on its front side and will join the top of the oil reservoir: it is a ventilation tube

The second one start from the bottom of the oil radiator, moves to the middle and joins a silver braided hose, which will be attached to a brass line. This brass line will run above the propeller shaft, will turn around the front left side of the engine, and will join a braided hose itself fixed onto the top of the oil reservoir

The third one is a 0.8 mm brass tube on which will be attached the first silver braided hose I described  previously.

A last, the bigger one start from the bottom of the water collant radiator , and will join the water pump, place at the back of the alternator on the right side of the engine block

 

     

 

  

 

Much more plumbing has still to be done

 

Stay tuned for next steps

 

 

 

[CrazyCrank]

Good morning gentlemen

 

A bit of progress today with the achievement of the oil plumbing and the water plumbing from the water pump to the water radiator.

 

Il's been difficult because the CA glue didn't want to dry fast.... indeed I got the wrong bottle, the transparent one for transparent parts !

 

Finally, all has turned well and I can show you the preliminary works :

 

   

 

  

 

 

I remains to fix the intake manifold and its plumbing, the air filter, the water cooling top line with thermostat and all its plumbing, the water reservoir and its plumbing, as delicate job than the previous one.

 

Stay tuned if you like 😎

 

Edited April 25, 2021 by CrazyCrank
Forgotten something

[silver911]

That all works for me mate...very neat and tidy

 

Ron

[Toftdale]

Just catching up on this, as inspirational as ever - Andy 

[Hamden]

 

More stunning attention to detail

 

  Stay safe       Roger

[Vesa Jussila]

Really nice details.

[CrazyCrank]

Good evening chaps

 

No more progress on the plumbing since some parts have been painted and I've to wait for a compete drying before handling them.

 

So, I've fixed the vacuum canister in place:

 

 

And I"ve drawn on Fusion 360, for the fun:

- The auxiliary fuel pump

- And the fuel filter

 

  

 

Below the genuine parts:

 

  

 

I'l 3D print them tonight, to see what I get and if it's possible to fix them on the frame...

 

Thanks for watching

 

 

[CrazyCrank]

Hi everybody

 

A little progress tonight, with the preliminary modification of some parts and their wiring.

 

The support on which is attached the wiper's motor, is also used to attach the brake fluid bottle on the MB 300SL Gullwing WHEN they are equipped with an ATE-Brake booster, what is not the case for this 417 Mille Miglia replica, as told me @ejboyd5 ,

So the part supplied by Tamiya, which replicate the fixture and the brake fluid reservoir, has been modified: I've removed the reservoir.

Next, I've noticed on all the engine bay's photos I saw on the Internet that from the wipers motor, come out 4 electrical wires, some or all of them crossing later  through the firewall 

So, I've drilled 4 diam. 0.25 mm holes on the motor, where a plate is engraved, and have glued 4 diameter 0.18 mm copper wires/

It remains to paint this part before fixing it on the firewall, and to thread the wire on the hole I've drilled on its left top corner.

 

  

 

.  

 

Then,  I've modified the art supplied by Tamiya, that represent  the ignition coil.

Indeed this plastic part is absolutely not accurate.

So, I've cut out the pin which simulate the top of the coil, from which comes out the ignition cable, and replaced it by 3 brass tubes threaded one on each other, 1 tube 1,0 mm diameter , the second 0.8 and the third 0.6.

Each section is a bit longer than the one in which it's threaded, we get so a "cone" effect, as on the real.

At last, the ignition wire has been threaded into the 0.6 mm tube, and 2 other electrical wires, one red, the blue, as on the real, has been glued on both sirdes of the central black wire.

It remains to paint the coil (black for the body, except the top, which will be red, and silver for th clamp ring)

 

  

 

The fuel filter and te auxiliary fuel pump I 3D printed yesterday have benn painted and are waiting to be fixed at the right location.

 

  

 

At least, I've modified the kit's part that represent the top water cooling pipes, addong on the centre part, as on the real, a short section of 0.6 mm tube, from which start a 0.25 cable (I don't know its utility !)

 

  

 

See you tomorrow for the assembly of this tiny parts and some more need plumbing

 

 

 

 

 

 

[CrazyCrank]

Morning chaps

 

Wipers motor and ignition coil achieved, it remains to fix them on the firewall. Finally, this will be done much later, because I must before, paint the inside part of the firewall and detail it(pedals, painting, and carpeting.

 

 

 

The water coolant top pipes have been achieved too, with the addition of hose clamps (4 photo-etched and 4 simulated by very thin strips of Tamiya masking tape, painted silver )

This part will be put in place much later, after the firewall and the intake manifold.

 

  

 

The fuel filter and the auxiliary fuel pump has been attached on the frame

 

  

 

See you later for next steps , thanks for watching

 

[CrazyCrank]

Afternoon guys

 

The air filter has been improved, to look closer to the real, so:
 

1/ I've painted the air filter housing with a new (for me) technique, in order to simulate a perforated metal sheet: first painted it silver, and then painted it black through mesh

Hereunder the result:

 

 

Far to be perfect, but give an illusion ...

 

2/  I've added 2 hose clamps (photo-etched) on the rubber jonction part between the intake manifold and the air filter, and 2 hose clamps (Tamiya masking tape painted silver) on the tube that  will join the air filter and the damper pot

 

 

Finaly, it seems rather convincing, imho 🤔

 

Furthermore, I've painted the inside of the firewall, and prepared the velvet parts which I'll use to simulate the carpeting: dark for the floor mat, and blue fort the tunnel

 

This is the color that I'll use for the tub, the dash top, the inner part of the doors, the seats and their covering (Adriatic blue, from Gravity colors)

 

 

 

To cut the velvet parts on the right shape, I've made templates with Tamiya masking tape:

 

  

 

 

  

 

I noticed I made a mistake when I ordered the blue one: it's not the right blue I desired, and not adhesive velvet, but adhesive felt, which aspect is much more rough.

So, I've made today a new order, and I couldn't put immediately the firewall in place with all its "accessories" (washer fluid tank, wipers motor, ignition coil etc) .

I've to wait for the delivery of the right fabric.

 

More to come soon...stay tuned if you like

 

[CrazyCrank]

Evening gentlemen

 

The building of the chassis and the engine bay is nearing completion :

 

I've glued in place the intake manifold and the air filter, and have set in right shape and place the copper tubing which comes around the intake manifold:

-  the first one coming from the advance adjuster, on the front,

- and the second one coming from the injection pump.

I've also added a pipe between the front end of the intake manifold and the front end of the water hose which join the water pump and the lower part of the water coolant radiator .

I'd forgotten to install it on the intake manifold glueing it 🤒

 

It doesn't seem like much, but it was a very time consuming task.

Nevertheless, it's well worth the time and efforts, because that changes radically the visual impression 😎

 

I didn't think I was capable to go deeper in detailing at this scale, and I'm pretty happy with the way things have gone, and with the final result

 

Hereunder, a selection of close-up photographs:

 

  

 

  

 

  

 

  

 

 

 

It remains now to add the water reservoir and its tubing, on the right side of the engine bay,  and the top cooling pipes, and the top left side of the engine.

And finally install the firewall and accesories.

 

Stay tuned if you like

 

 

[silver911]

It doesn't get better than this at any scale Thierry...stunning work

 

Ron