Mercedes Benz 300 SL Gullwing 5th overall of Mille Miglia 1955 edition, driven by John Fitch (based on Tamiya Kit 1:24 scale): FINISHED !

[CrazyCrank]

On 5/4/2021 at 9:59 PM, Hamden said:

 

This just gets better and better

 

  Stay safe       Roger

Thanks a lot Roger for this kind compliment

 

4 hours ago, wlell said:

I have learned so much following your work.

Are you planning to do the LEGRAND 1/8 scale 300SLR? With your skills it would be a masterpiece.

Bill

I'm very pleased to have been on some use, and thank you for this huge compliment

No, I'm not planning to build this kit, because it's a plug and screw toy...However, this iconic car is very interesting , mixing a draft of the future body shape of the 300SL Gullwing  and the engine of the 300 SLR, and it was built in only 2 exemplars. I could be tempted to entirely scratch-build a 1:8 or 1:12 replica, if I owed all the blueprints 🤔

[CrazyCrank]

Goof evening gentlemen

 

The weather is very wet today here, so, not  convenient for painting job.

 

I've received my Laser white decal paper and I've planned to work, next week, on home-made decals for the numbers (417) and the license plates of this "monster "

 

Meanwhile, as I can't paint the bonnet as long as the special wind deflector hasn't be made, I began to work on it.

 

So, I've spent more than an hour to scratch a template with thin white styrene sheet, inspiring me for the shape and dimensions, not from the replica which participated to the 2018  Mille Miglia edition, but on a true photo of John Fitch sat on its MB 300 SL 417 in 1955, waiting for tech inspection.

 

The original 417 with John Fitch:

 

 

 

The Replica, taken on a similar angle of view

 

 

If you compare on both photos the shape of the bonnet deflector, you can see that on the Replica, it is lower on the right side than on the left one, when on the contrary, on the original Ficth's one, the height of the deflector seems to be even from left to right side.

I've so decided to keep these last dimensions, to be more accurate.

That said, it is true that on some photos of the Fitch MB 417, the right side seems to be lower than the left one; I think that it's possibly an optical illusion...

 

My template:

 

 

It remains to fabricate the 3 supports for this deflector, and to scratch this last part in a clear plastic sheet; then to fix the supports on the clear deflector avoiding to spoil it with undesirable glue.

 

So, a lot of work to do... I don't know which techniques I should use for this project and I've to sleep on it

I wonder also how the deflector was fixed on the bonnet, since on some photos taken after the Mille Miglia, where the deflector has been removed, one can't see any peculiar mark on the bonnet, such as holes for screws etc.

 

If anyone has an idea, I'm more than interested... @ejboyd5 ???

 

Stay tuned if you like 😎

 

[Spiny]

It could be my imagination, a reflection, or bit of both, but it looks as though both the original and the replica may have some angled struts on the rear of the deflector running from the base, to the trailing edge of the bonnet and forming a triangle by running back to near the top of the deflector (most noticeable on the replica, but just about visible with a lot of imagination on the oringal photo). Could they maybe clip around the rear of the bonnet and clamp onto the underside somehow?

 

Of course, I could be compeltely wrong, just speculating from examination of the pics you've posted.

[CrazyCrank]

3 hours ago, Spiny said:

It could be my imagination, a reflection, or bit of both, but it looks as though both the original and the replica may have some angled struts on the rear of the deflector running from the base, to the trailing edge of the bonnet and forming a triangle by running back to near the top of the deflector (most noticeable on the replica, but just about visible with a lot of imagination on the oringal photo). Could they maybe clip around the rear of the bonnet and clamp onto the underside somehow?

 

Of course, I could be compeltely wrong, just speculating from examination of the pics you've posted.

 

No, Spiny, your eyes have seen what must be seen:

There is indeed 3 angled struts, whose shape is equilateral triangle, which join the bonnets and the rear of the deflector, at left and right end and on he centre.

On the deflector, there is 2 screws, <I believe,  to tighten it on each strut.

 

But the structs aren't clipped on the bonnet imho, if I believe what my eyes see hereunder:

 

  

 

 

Scratching the structs is not complicated, fixing them on a clear plastic sheet whiteout glue is more difficult.

The hardest thing is to understand how the structs are fixed on the bonnet, and replicate (or simulate) this kind of mounting !

 

I've to sleep on it, but it's too late now, or too early à 2:15 am 🤔

[Hamden]

 

Looking at the centre picture above it appears to me that the deflector is spaced of the supports and that there bolt/screw heads showing on the support to bonnet fit.

This is just my view and I may be seeing things that are not there!

 

  Stay safe       Roger

[CrazyCrank]

9 minutes ago, Hamden said:

 

Looking at the centre picture above it appears to me that the deflector is spaced of the supports and that there bolt/screw heads showing on the support to bonnet fit.

This is just my view and I may be seeing things that are not there!

 

  Stay safe       Roger

Yes, Roger, you're right saying that the deflector is slightly spaced from the supports.

And each support is screwed or bolt on the deflector with 2 screws/bolts, with probably a spacer in between .

However, I don't see at all some bolts on the struts to fit them on the bonnet. On the centre picture, there are many light reflects.

Look at the left picture above, and you don't see anything.

At the moment, it's a mystery !

 

 

[Vesa Jussila]

This is coming a real master work.

[Michael Church]

Could the supports be bolted from the underside of the bonnet? What if you cut the supports from plastic card stock about 1.5 mm thick then attach the supports to the bonnet and the windscreen to the supports using approximately 1 mm nuts? Then, in theory, the glue would be confined to the insides of the nut holes drilled into the card stock and the head of the nuts would hold the clear sheet to the supports. A little like how this blogger built a Jaguar D-type windscreen, but with sideways supports instead of a metal band.

 

I'm not sure if this makes sense--I haven't had enough coffee yet today. 

[silver911]

To me it appears that two bolts on each strut hold it to the deflector...and it seems logical that the struts are held by bolts on the inside of the bonnet...which would make sense.

Agree with Michael's solution in fixing struts to the deflector to avoid glue residue.

 

Ron

[CrazyCrank]

49 minutes ago, Michael Church said:

Could the supports be bolted from the underside of the bonnet? What if you cut the supports from plastic card stock about 1.5 mm thick then attach the supports to the bonnet and the windscreen to the supports using approximately 1 mm nuts? Then, in theory, the glue would be confined to the insides of the nut holes drilled into the card stock and the head of the nuts would hold the clear sheet to the supports. A little like how this blogger built a Jaguar D-type windscreen, but with sideways supports instead of a metal band.

 

I'm not sure if this makes sense--I haven't had enough coffee yet today. 

I've seen this as a solution, but 1,5 mm thick for the struts seems excessive at this scale, since this would represent 36 mm at 1:1 scale
I'm going to use a 1 mm thick material, and either 0.6 or 0.8 mm bolts or pinheads

 

34 minutes ago, silver911 said:

To me it appears that two bolts on each strut hold it to the deflector...and it seems logical that the struts are held by bolts on the inside of the bonnet...which would make sense.

Agree with Michael's solution in fixing struts to the deflector to avoid glue residue.

 

Ron

You're probably right, Ron, and that is the conclusion I just made by myself , because, even if holes are not visible on the bonnet, it's the more logical and speed-resistant manner to fit them.

 

See you soon for more adventures

 

[CrazyCrank]

Good evening gentlemen

 

While reflecting on the path I'll follow to scratch my final deflector, its structs and the way to fit it, I'm also working on other parts of the car.

 

You have seen that I've already "upholstered " the inner side of the firewall, making a convincing blue carpet for the tunnel with a mother-in law old shirt sleeve, made of flimsy cotton fabric.

 

I glued it on the plastic part with tissue adhesive, and painted it with Gravity Color Adriatic blue (In fact, it's a set of 3 colors, devoted to paint the upholstery  the Adriatic blue base coat, and a pale blue for the lights plus a dark blues for the shades)

 

However, comparing the color I got and the blue one we can see for the upholstery of the Gullwing 417 Mille Miglia replica, it seems to be too pale.

So, I made tries, using the shades color of the Adriatic Blue set that I mixed with the base coat, progressively, until I get the color I wanted, which match better with the Replica one.

 

I think I've found the good combination, and I can now show you the result I got for the cabin, whose blue carpeting for tunnel and rear shel have also been made:

 

  

 

You can see a slight difference between the carpet's blue on the front part of the tunnel, and its rear side. 

I think I'd sprayed black on the fabric before the blue on the front side, when I've sprayed Grey primer on the rear part and the rear shelf.

Once the seats and the dashboard installed in the cabin, you couldn't notice it anymore !

 

  

 

A lot of work remains to do in the cabin.

 

See you later for next steps

 

[CrazyCrank]

Morning chaps

 

Impossible to do paint job this week-end, since my grand-daughters are at home, and they don't have to breath toxic fumes.

 

So, I've begun to assemble a wheel:

I've added a tyre weight 25 grams for this first one, and the valve (not very visible because rubber black over Dark grey)

 

  

 

3 more to assemble, and they then could be fit on the chassis

 

Stay tuned for next steps 😎

[silver911]

I know it sounds a bit silly but...I really like those wheel weights...an absolute gem...and sets off the wheel perfectly

 

Ron

[rjfk2002]

I have spent all morning reading this thread from start to now. Staggering work! Thank you for sharing. I loved your Bugatti work but I am blown away by what you are accomplishing at 1/24 scale!

[CrazyCrank]

Thanks a lot @silver911 and @rjfk2002 for your kind comments, most appreciated

 

Going on to scratch my deflectors, I've decided to 3D print the struts.

Indeed, it quite impossible to drill 0.6 mm holes on 4 mm equilateral triangles cut in a 1 mm styrene sheet, spacing them correctly and centering the correctly.

 

So, drawn them on Fusion 360 and made a first 3D print this night.

The 0.7 mm holes I drilled on the drawing are Ok after 3D printing, but a bit too wide, and the horizontal side of the triangle, 5 mm long, is a bit too long...

So, result rather good, but struts not quite correct to fit them on the deflector, so a second "bath" is on the way after slight corrections.

 

  

 

  

 

Stay tuned for next steps 😎

[silver911]

A neat solution to the struts Thierry.

Should the deflector not be clear?

 

Ron

[CrazyCrank]

2 minutes ago, silver911 said:

A neat solution to the struts Thierry.

Should the deflector not be clear?

 

Ron

Thanks Ron 😎

yes of course.

I’m currently making my tries on the white template 😉

[silver911]

Sound thinking mate

 

Ron

[CrazyCrank]

Evening  chaps

 

Just went back to my workbench, after departure of my family, and there's now a little bit of progress on the the deflector's scratching.

 

New struts have been done and seem now convenient, holes perfectly dug.

I've begun to drill the fixation holes on the template and made a try with three 0.6 mm bolts, just pinned into the holes over the vertical side of he struts, to get an idea of what could result of this job, once put on the bonnet

 

  

 

 

But the game is far from won !

 

I've now to :

- 1: cut the deflector in a clear plastic sheet (At the moment my tries were unsuccessful )

- 2: drill the holes at the right place on this final part

- 3: determine then the right length  of the bolts which will fix the deflector on the struts, and thin out the bolts heads

- 4: paint the structs

- 5: attach definitely the deflector on the struts, keeping their correct alignment

- 6: recognize the right place to fit the structs on the bonnet

- 7: drill six 0.6 mm holes on the bonnet, fingers crossed hoping not to be mistaken

- 8: paint the bonnet, make the decals, put the decals, clear coat the bonnet, polish it

- 9: and finally fix the deflector on it with six 0.6 mm nuts, without ruining the paint

 

Please, pray for me 🤒

 

[silver911]

Works for me Thierry

 

Ron

[CrazyCrank]

Good afternoon gentlemen

 

Steps 1-2-6 and 7 amongst 9 for the job to do for fixing the deflector on the bonnets are  made and the final part of step 3 too.

 

So, we have currently several parts:

- the deflector has been cut in a 0.15 mm clear plastic sheet (packaging of light bulbs ! ); its back face is still protected from possible scratches with Tamiya masking tape

- the head of the bolts to fix it on the struts have been  thinned out in terms of diameter and height 

- The struts have received on their horizontal side 2 holes in which I've threaded sort sections of 0.6 mm bolts

- The 6 hokes on the bonnet have been located and drilled

 

  

 

 

And dry fit of the struts:

 

  

 

I wish I could bolt the 0.6 mm nuts onto the bolts to fix them firmly on the bonnet to detect if there's some defects, but I've misplaced my 0.6 mm wrench, so have to find it, or purchase another one 🥴

 

Meanwhile, I'm going to shorten the deflector bolts at the good length.

 

Stay tuned for next steps

 

[CrazyCrank]

Yeah !!!! found back my wrenches 😎

 

Beginning of the adjustment for the bonnet's bolts, and struts are now secured with their nuts (still dry fit of course...)

 

  

 

  

 

Funny, you can see the bolts through the resin by transparency.

You could notice that the structs are perfectly perpendicular to the bonnet and parallel to one another....this is the reason for bolting instead of glueing

 

I've also put the wheels on the chassis, it remains to paint the nuts chrome and fix them:

 

 

Stay tuned if you like, and thanks for watching

 

 

[silver911]

This is really starting to come together nicely now Thierry...strut supports work well...another small but worthwhile detail...wheels look damn good too

 

Ron

[CrazyCrank]

Hi again

 

Finally, the struts won't be bolted with nuts .)

There's a problem with this fixing method !

Fortunately, I've had the idea to make a dry fit, putting the body shell with the bonnet as it was prepared for deflector, and the fact is that the bonnet can't close correctly because the nuts and the bolts, even after triming, protrudes too much and knock some elements of the engine bay, the windshield washer fluid on the right, and the wipers motor on the left.

So, I've abandoned this idea, removed the nuts, cut the bolts flush with the bonnet's underside, and the struts will be glued into the holes, guided by the bolts, at the end of this build.

I don't even want to think to the disaster that could occurred if I have not made this dry fit today 🤔

[silver911]

Maybe some PE nuts...they are very thin...not being real nuts so to speak...would work Thierry?

 

Ron