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1:48 Eduard Polikarpov i-16 Type 10


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Having built a couple of “naked” aircraft, a Mosquito and recently Ef-126, I decided that I needed to build another one. So whilst searching the interweb I stumbled across this photo…

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Sorry I don’t know who’s photo this is, I’ve just used it for inspiration.

 

Some years ago, when I first got back into the hobby, I built Eduard’s 1:48 ProfiPACK type 24 version and I remember that I enjoyed the build and I thought that this would be the ideal victim.

 

So off I went to the Hannants’ website and purchased this Weekend kit…

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Whilst on the site these 3D decals were mentioned.

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I think that these look interesting so I thought I’d give them a go and see what results they give.

 

For my naked Mossie build I’d used paint and PE stencils to create the wood panel effects, for the Ef-126 I used decals, the decals were much easier to get a wooden effect so I thought I’d use some of AK’s wood decals.

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I plan to mix-and-match wood types from both decal sheets.

 

The airframe will be a mixture of aluminium, linen and wood.

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As per normal with an aircraft build I’ll be starting with the cockpit.

 

until next time

as always, any suggestions, criticisms or comments will be gratefully received.

rgds

John(shortCummins)

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2 hours ago, billn53 said:

The I-16 isn’t my cup of tea, but I loved how your Ef-126 turned out and I think I’ll follow along on this one. 😊

thanks billn53

 

if this goes well there's some other, mainly Russian, aircraft that may get the same treatment

 

rgds

John(shortCummins)

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The first thing to say is that the i-16 is a tiny aircraft, here’s my previous effort next to a Spitfire Mk.V

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Quinta Studio provide a number of different 3D decals for the instrument panel, seat belts, leather panels and leavers.

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I’ll not be using all of the decals as I’m happy to paint and detail the kit leavers and headrest however I’ve got to say that the IP and harness’ look fantastic.

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The “interior” bits’n’bobs were separated from the sprue and then given a coat of UMP/Stynylrez black primer.

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Next I’ll be adding some colour to the cockpit.

 

until next time

as always, any suggestions, criticisms or comments will be gratefully received.

rgds

John(shortCummins)

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2 hours ago, Marklo said:

I have one of these in my stash along with a set of Chinese decals so I’ll watch with interest.

thanks Marklo

 

from memory this is smashing little kit, the only "tricky" part was the landing gear panels as their multipart with little advice on how best, which order etc., to fit them.

funnily enough this weekend kit has Chinese markings but I'll not be using them, if you want them PM me and there yours.

 

rgds

John(shortCummins)  

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Eduard suggests that the cockpit walls are grey and the floor, seat and most of the control levers green, for the grey I’ve used Tamiya XF-66 light grey.

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The green I’ve used is Tamiya XF-13 JA green.

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I’m not too fussed if these are the exact shades of grey or green, once the fuselage is buttoned up you’ll not be able to see anything anyway.

 

The headrest and control stick handle were painted XF-64 red brown.

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Next I’ll be detail painting the leavers, assembling the cockpit and doing some light weathering.

 

until next time

as always, any suggestions, criticisms or comments will be gratefully received.

rgds

John(shortCummins)

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I brush painted the leavers and knobs steel, red, yellow or black, mainly to make them stand out a little.

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The headrest was highlighted with a mixture of XF-64 lightened with yellow…

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…and the floor, seat and leaver console boxes dry-brushed with Hobby Color H70 RLM02.

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The greys were dry brushed with XF-63 and Hobby Color H306 grey.

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Next I’ll be adding all these to the sidewalls and getting to play with the Quinta decals.

 

until next time

as always, any suggestions, criticisms or comments will be gratefully received.

rgds

John(shortCummins)

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Great build so far! I loved your previous 'wooden' wonder, so will follow this one's WIP  with interest. if you think the"'Gee-Beeski" is small in 1/48. you should see trying to do the same detailing in 1/72 scale! Looking forward to the RFI photos!

Mike

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1 hour ago, billn53 said:

Very clean work thus far. I see you are up to your usual standards!

thanks billn53

 

early days, still plenty of time to mess up 😜

 

32 minutes ago, 72modeler said:

Great build so far! I loved your previous 'wooden' wonder, so will follow this one's WIP  with interest. if you think the"'Gee-Beeski" is small in 1/48. you should see trying to do the same detailing in 1/72 scale! Looking forward to the RFI photos!

Mike

thanks Mike

 

my eyes wouldn't let me even think about 1/72, I'd be cross-eyed within half an hour!

 

rgds

John(shortCummins)

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It was time to tryout the Quinta 3D decals, the IP was added…

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Really easy to apply, I used some PVA along the edges to ensure adhesion, “belt and braces”, to be fair Quinta advises that you might need to use either CA or PVA.

Unfortunately this will be all but hidden once the fuselage is closed, still I’m very impressed and will consider these 3D decals for future builds.

 

Most of the console boxes and levers were glued to the sidewalls.

The exception was Part E4 which was sacrificed to the “carpet monster” so I had to use the Quinta 3D decal to replace it.

Once these were attached I used a home made “magic wash”, aqua gloss, water & a drop of Liquitex raw umber acrylic ink, which was then given a coat of Alclad klear kote flat.

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The Quinta “door panel” was also used, very nice touch by Quinta.

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Next the Quinta seat harness’ nailed in place.

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These needed? to be fixed in place with CA, I probably could have gotten away without but better safe than sorry.

 

Eduard would have you add some of the exhaust pipes, I’ll leave these until much later on in the build as I want to paint them and the “metal” parts separately.

 

 

 

Next I’ll be joining the fuselage halves together.

 

until next time

as always, any suggestions, criticisms or comments will be gratefully received.

rgds

John(shortCummins)

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According to Scalemates this kit was first produced in 2006, I’m guessing that quite a number of these have been pumped out as there was a little bit of flash that needed cleaning up.

The alignment really isn’t help by the pimples that are the registration points, in effect their non-existent!

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I'm thinking that these are 1:144 alignment points on a 1:48 kit 😜

 

However the two halves were butted together and the cockpit floor and seat squeezed in.

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These seems will require a bit of clean up.

 

Both wings, top and bottom, were glued together and cleaned up, dry fitting showed some gaps will be evident.

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I started by gluing one side of the wing and fuselage, this shows how much “movement” will be required to align the fitting.

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Careful glueing and stretching gives better results.

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To try and ensure that the fuselage wouldn’t “spring back” I added a brace made from the sprue tree.

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However, there are still some areas that will need fettling.

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Next I’ll be sorting those gaps, seems and steps.

 

until next time

as always, any suggestions, criticisms or comments will be gratefully received.

rgds

John(shortCummins)

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Dealing with the gap and seems I used some plasticard strips to fill the majority of the gap and then used some sprue-goo to fill/blend the seems.

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The lower front part of the cowl was too far forward so I sanded it back, however I was a bit too enthusiastic so I had to used some filler to replace some of what I’d sanded.

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Once the putty and sprue-goo had cured all of the seems were sanded and polished using multiple sanding sponges in increasing grit levels.

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Next I’ll be checking the seems to see if any additional work is required.

 

until next time

as always, any suggestions, criticisms or comments will be gratefully received.

rgds

John(shortCummins)

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So the “primer” layer for this will need to be two colours, white for the “linen” and “wood” and black for the “metal” surfaces.

 

However, before proceeding with the primer I wanted to check the seems so I sprayed some MRP black, being a lacquer based paint it drys quicker than primer or acrylic enabling me to “fix” any issues a little quicker.

Before any paint was applied the cockpit was masked to protect from any over-spray.

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Then the seems were given a quick coat of black.

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The first primer to go down was a coat of UMP/Stynylrez white.

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Before the UMP/Stynylrez black primer I decided to apply the “base” coats for both the “wood” and “linen”.

I used MRP-256 clear doped linen “linen”…

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…and MRP-259 pale wood for the “wood”

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For the wood base I didn’t try for a “uniform” finish, in some areas I’ve added more paint making a “mottled” appearance to try and give colour variance under the wood decals.

 

 

Next I’ll be applying the “metal” base colour.

 

until next time

as always, any suggestions, criticisms or comments will be gratefully received.

rgds

John(shortCummins)

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Both the “wood” and “linen” was masked and then I applied the UMP/Stynylrez black primer.

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Apply the primer showed that I needed to do more work on the lower cowling area…

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…the this area was filled and smoothed and then given another coat of primer.

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After the primer was applied it was time to add some rivets.

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I think that adding the rivets after the primer should help them to be a little bit more noticeable as they won’t get “filled in” by the thicker primer?

 

Whilst everything was masked I sprayed the hinges AK Xtreme metal AK476 steel.

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The rest of the metal parts were given a base coat of AK479 aluminium.

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Next I’ll be finishing the NMF.

 

until next time

as always, any suggestions, criticisms or comments will be gratefully received.

rgds

John(shortCummins)

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Various panels were then picked out with AK480 dark aluminium and AK482 duraluminium.

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I wanted to give a very slightly tarnished or oxidised appearance to the metal so I misted on a very light coat of AK488 matt aluminium along the panel lines.

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This colour is very difficult to capture in photos but I’m hoping it will give the effect I’m after once the model is completed

 

Where the front cowl connects to the fuselage there’s a metal ring/strap, I want to highlight this so I masked it off and then applied a couple of coats of aqua gloss and then gave it a coat of AK477 chrome.

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Next I’ll be finishing off the linen effect before moving onto the wood decals.

 

until next time

as always, any suggestions, criticisms or comments will be gratefully received.

rgds

John(shortCummins)

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Before I start on the linen shadows I wanted to take stock of the paint so far.

Here’s where we stand, the “metal” paintwork is more or less complete, panel lines need attending to, and the “base” colours of both the “linen” and “wood” have been applied.

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There are one of two places that’ll need the paint touching up, some I’ll be able to cover with pre-shading for the wood, others will need to be repainted with the base colour.

 

 

 

Next I’ll be finishing off the lined.

 

until next time

as always, any suggestions, criticisms or comments will be gratefully received.

rgds

John(shortCummins)

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That is shaping up to be a very good looking colour scheme. Might even copy it for my I-16 when I get to it. but would probably just use paint effects for the bare wood and as I don’t do enamels would do the bare metal a bit differently too, might even try foiling it.

 

As Oscar Wilde once said, ‘talent borrows, genius steals’. Every once in a while I get a flash of genius :) 

Edited by Marklo
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13 hours ago, Marklo said:

That is shaping up to be a very good looking colour scheme. Might even copy it for my I-16 when I get to it. but would probably just use paint effects for the bare wood and as I don’t do enamels would do the bare metal a bit differently too, might even try foiling it.

 

As Oscar Wilde once said, ‘talent borrows, genius steals’. Every once in a while I get a flash of genius :) 

ha ha, help yourself, I'm not sure that I've got all materials/panels identified correctly but its reasonably close and looks "right"

 

rgds

John(shortCummins)

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So before I apply either the wood decals I need to finish off the linen look by adding some “shadows” where the framework would be as I don’t want to apply masking tape to the wood decals as I know that’ll be asking for them to be damaged.

 

There were a couple of “nicks” in both the wood and linen colours that needed to be fixed, so first I masked the “metal” paint…

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…and then applied the colour.

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I really like the MRP lacquer paints, you can use them straight out of the bottle without the necessity to thin them. In the past I’ve had issues with getting the paint correctly thinned, I either don’t thin it enough and its very difficult to get a constant flow, or I thin it too much and suffer spidering, so being able to use them “straight” takes the element of guesswork out of the mix, no pun intended. However there is a down side and that’s that you can’t easily bush paint them, you have to use an airbrush and that necessitates an element of masking and therefor any touch-ups take far longer.

 

Talking of masking, I re-used some Tamiya tape by cutting some thin stripes and applying them to the “high” points…

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This masking took 3 or 4 sessions, cross-eyed most of the time!, and without my infini curling board I wouldn’t attempt this sort of thing.

 

Then I sprayed some highly thinned MRP-255 black, approx. 95% thinner 5% paint, to try and simulate shadows.

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I’m reasonably happy with the result, I think I should have thinned the black a wee bit more to give a "lighter shade" but overall I think that I achieved the effect I was after.

 

 

Next I’ll be starting the wood effect decals.

 

until next time

as always, any suggestions, criticisms or comments will be gratefully received.

rgds

John(shortCummins)

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4 hours ago, John Masters said:

Wow!  This is lovely...and one of my favourite aircraft too.

thanks John

 

if I'd realised just how much time the masking was going to take I might have decided to do something different

I'm sure it'll be worth it in the end

 

rgds

John(shortCummins)

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