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1/35 Vosper 72'6" MTB 234 (change of plan from MTB82)


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Thanks  @robgizlu, I am leaning same way with hull. I had seen @andrewa great 1/72. 

 

Today I finished off the last of sub assemblies - the flying bridge and the vickers turret.

 

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Then I got a primer coat on hull and deck. Allowed a couple of hours to dry and did a few spot sands etc and then applied another light coat. Happy with where they are, I think will allow to dry fully over night and start maskings in morning. For deck I am looking at masking off for the non slip on focastle, and possibly the light grey band on torpedo cut out. Then mask those when dry and mask out wheelhouse and then apply the blue grey deck overall. 

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Edited by Alun Gallie
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Got the deck masked, anti slip tree on focastle and camouflage strip in torpedo cut out  and base of rear hatch painted. Got a little bit of overspray/bleed in wheelhouse but will be hand painting most of it.

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Also got the hull base coats in white 

 

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Let it dry now and maybe get hull masking done later today, need a break from swearing at masking tape. 

 

 

Edited by Alun Gallie
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Maybe get hull masking done later today I said - oh well when you are on a roll might as well keep going 

 

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Colours arn't best in picture due to lighting but reasonably happy - as discussed in other threads could loose half my life trying to nail down colours exactly - and still would not be able to prove 100% accurate - the paints I used match the colour chips I had access too enough to convey to scheme.

 

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Next up clean up and prime the deck fittings. I have ordered a 1/35 Oerlikon 20mm from Micromaster in NZ. Also realised I need a couple of 20mm ready use lockers and to find some decals for hull numbers. Any suggestions ?

 

Also need to detail the wheelhouse (despite fact most will be unseen) 

 

I will probably undertake some weathering too

 

A bit of B&W action to see how the contrasts look

 

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Edited by Alun Gallie
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I like that.

Sorry to say I will most likely do the same boat as you. I want to use my 20mm Oerikon I got in the S38 kit and the one I had intended to do is a later version. This means 234 is the best choice for me.

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Today I got the torpedo tubes masked and painted, I think I bought the blue grey down a fraction too far but happy enough. 

Away for 10 days now so don't expect to get anything done.

 

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Next steps

1) hand paint some details - wheelhouse, turret

2) do mast 

3) hopefully Oerlikon arrives and fit and paint

4) decals

5) coat of clear

6) weathering

5) portholes and windows

6) join hull and main sub assemblies

6) rigging, deck ropes etc 

 

 

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My kit arrived yesterday.  What is the paint brand and colour you used on the deck? I like it although I might grey it up just a little bit. Still if you can give me a starting point it would be appreciated. 

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I don’t have an airbrush so I just went for  rattle cans as close as I could find to the colour chips I had.

‘I think it’s Army Painter wolf grey but will need to double check when I get home next week.

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Away from home for a week so just been doing a little more research. Decided I will remark the tubes and get the blue-grey higher and also get some light grey on the bottom half of the (what I assume to be) air tanks.

in addition I need to do the wheelhouse roof ahead of the flying bridge and the top of companionway hatch on rear deck blue grey as well. Guess I better pick up some more masking tape. 

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Arrived back from holiday this afternoon to this waiting in my mail box for me 

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Keen tomorrow when I have recovered to get back into finishing this model off. I have a couple of tweaks I want to make to paint work as mentioned above then push on with the to do list from a few posts back.

 

 

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One thing I am having more difficulty than I expected is finding some suitable decals - I believe about 10mm for hull sides and 15mm for stern. Anyone got any suggestions for suitable pennant numbers for MTBs. ?

 

Edited by Alun Gallie
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Nice Oerlikon ! Pity this printed 3d stuff is still so very expensive. As to the pennant numbers, it's probably best to buy a sheet of transparent waterslide decal paper and print them yourself (or have them printed by someone else with a good ink jet printer).

 

Regards,

 

Arjan

Edited by Arjan
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12 hours ago, Alun Gallie said:

On thing I am having more difficulty than I expected is finding some suitable decals - I believe about 10mm for hull sides and 15mm for stern. Anyone got any suggestions for suitable pennant numbers for MTBs. ?

 

 

Alun - great paint job and the detail on that Oerlikon is astonishing

As to decals - problematic at this scale 

I think masks would work better - I've used these guys and they are great 

https://shop.maketar.com/

Rob

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The Oerlikon is beautifully detailed, I think the base is a little high, I hadn’t realised how large they were in comparison to wheelhouse etc but still think a little to tall. Micromaster has a range of models/bases so I may have got slightly wrong model but will make it work.

@Greg Law yep, I can do that. 
@Arjan and @robgizlu - thanks may need to look at both options

 

 

 

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Spent about 4 hours this morning to get basically back to where I started.

 

I removed, masked and sprayed the companionway hatch blue grey on top curved surface.

 

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I masked and sprayed the top of the wheel house blue grey

 

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I also cut down the base of the Oerlikon to get the gun at a better height. 

 

And I remasked and resprayed the torpedo tubes to reduce how far down the tubes the blue grey came and to get light grey on the bottom of 

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Got a bit of paint onto the guns. I am not happy with the join on top of torpedo tubes so think I will spend a bit of time tomorrow reworking those and continue with picking out some detail.

 

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Test fitted the CSU and depth charge. 

 

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  • 2 months later...
On 20/03/2021 at 22:31, Arjan said:

As for the cowl vents,  the cowls could indeed be rotated.

Nice work on this kit Alun.

 

As @arjan says the cowls rotate, indeed they come off and are sometimes vents are closed off with the cowls removed.  Most of the MTB pictures I have show them facing backwards which seems counter intuitive, but I suspect is reduced intake of water.  Cowls for the same internal space are often facing each other, I believe this is to improve circulation of air in the cabin

 

Steve

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