Jump to content

A Kangaroo, with "Fatherly" beginnings.


Recommended Posts

1 hour ago, Alpha Juliet said:

 

Hi Bullbasket - could you give some more details on the bolt punch please? Thanks

Certainly can. There are several on the market. The one that I have, I got from Historex, many years ago, and I don't think that they carry that particular model anymore. But they do others. Have a look here;

https://www.historexagents.com/#RPLHPD

https://ak-interactive.com/product/ak-hpd-hexagonal-punch-and-die-set/

 

Waldron also make sets, but I'm not sure if they do hexagonal. There are several more on line.

HTHs.

 

John.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

7 hours ago, Bullbasket said:

Certainly can. There are several on the market. The one that I have, I got from Historex, many years ago, and I don't think that they carry that particular model anymore. But they do others. Have a look here;

https://www.historexagents.com/#RPLHPD

https://ak-interactive.com/product/ak-hpd-hexagonal-punch-and-die-set/

 

Waldron also make sets, but I'm not sure if they do hexagonal. There are several more on line.

HTHs.

 

John.

 

Many thanks John.  Keep up the good work!  Adrian

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

I have the RP Toolz (Not to be confused with RP Tools) round punch set which I find invaluable. I've been pondering the hex shaped but was wondering how they fare when locating the very small punches into the dies as they are shaped rather than unidirectional round?

BTW That AK set looks identical to the RP set. In fact it's the same photo but photoshopped with a different background colour and logo!!

 

http://www.rptoolz.com/?p=202

 

 

 

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

On 22/03/2021 at 08:28, Mick4350 said:

What tracks were it operating with ?

Mick, I do apologise for not replying, I've only just seen your question. The short answer is that I've seen photos showing various tracks, T48, T51 and T54. I've not made up my mind which ones I'll use yet, as I haven't decided which vehicle I will try and depict.

 

John.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

13 hours ago, Carius said:

I love your projetct with this Kangaroo John, with your skills the kit certainly will be a masterpiece :yahoo:

Thanks Cesar. I appreciate your input.

 

John.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

 After gluing a Tamiya three part FDA to a Italeri/Dragon lower hull, it will interesting to see how well the upper hull mates up to the top FDA bolt strip John ;)

 

 Matt 

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

10 hours ago, Cerberus said:

 After gluing a Tamiya three part FDA to a Italeri/Dragon lower hull, it will interesting to see how well the upper hull mates up to the top FDA bolt strip John ;)

 

 Matt 

'Morning Matt. It's the Dragon lower hull, and the way that I did this was to use the FDA bolt strip from the Tamiya kit, as I thought (or should that be hoped) that it would be easier to mate the upper hull to the lower. The Italeri glacis has the bolt strip moulded integrally, so it will have to be surgically removed. To be perfectly honest, once I get onto the upper hull, I'm going to be winging it in no uncertain terms. Hopefully, I can put the 1/1 scale model room to one side for a while this weekend, and get some more work done to the 'Roo.

 

John.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

 

This looks as though it will be another interesting project to follow along with John.

 

On 05/04/2021 at 17:38, APA said:

I've been pondering the hex shaped but was wondering how they fare when locating the very small punches into the dies as they are shaped rather than unidirectional round?

 

The hexagonal punches have an extra rod for alignment. They work very well but I am still a little cautious when I use them as they aren't cheap.

 

 HFsDDavl.jpg

 

Wayne

 

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

49 minutes ago, diablo rsv said:

 

This looks as though it will be another interesting project to follow along with John.

 

 

The hexagonal punches have an extra rod for alignment. The work very well but I am still a little cautious when I use them as they aren't cheap.

 

 HFsDDavl.jpg

 

Wayne

 

Aha! That makes sense. Agree about the fragility. I've broke the 0.5 and 0.6 in my round punch set so stocked up on spares in 0.5 - 0.8 😁

 

Andrew 

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

On 10/04/2021 at 07:44, Bullbasket said:

To be perfectly honest, once I get onto the upper hull, I'm going to be winging it in no uncertain terms.

 Winging it is the best way sometimes, in the lap of the Gods ;)

 

 Matt

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

 

One thing that I don’t like doing is painting the wheels once they are fitted to the VVSS units. I find it a RRPITA. So I’ve come up with a different way of doing them, so that the wheels and tyres can be painted separately. What is needed is some Slaters plastic tubing and some Slaters rod. I don’t know the sizes as they both came from mixed packets, suffice it to say, the tubing is the thinnest in the pack, and the rod is fairly thick. (How’s that for technical exactitudes!) Anyway, the rod is a nice snug fit into the tubing.

bef52844-2abb-4130-9706-33b85e01a0e3.JPG

 

The first job is to remove the rods that the wheels fit onto. On the half of the unit from which the rods were removed, a hole was drilled, about 1mm deep.

d3d7d78e-19f7-4fb9-a2b9-73f7ee7d32c6.JPG

 

511e060f-30e6-4c12-94b0-c664a739f878.JPG

 

These can then be glued together and left to dry. A piece of tube is cut 6mm long and inserted into the wheel. Then a piece of the rod 8mm long is cut and glued into the tube, making sure that it protrudes equally each side.

5012a737-4f30-42ed-b233-d10e13b6b606.JPG

 

As can be seen here, the wheels can then be snapped into place, and removed whenever required. I should add at this point that the insertion of tube and rod was done after painting to allow the wheels to be mounted on cocktail sticks for painting. Only this one was done to show the process.

d19b5d7f-7921-4a24-a41b-477f90d273be.JPG

 

The VVSS units were assembled as per the instructions. Before fixing the skid onto the top of each unit, the front edge was scraped with a blade and files, to give a thinner profile. Then four bolt heads were added to the skid. On the rear of the unit, a piece of thin card was glued in place, to cover up the join line, and then four more bolt heads were added.

8f1b3665-8b75-4061-a1e6-5d5d2e96e005.JPG

 

ba8f05df-e9b7-4377-a0dd-f24d4c68af35.JPG30a7f1b2-dfed-4bdf-8da3-32bbe0f6baa4.JPG

 

0d9fecb8-342d-4165-8603-5c0c2fb1bef1.JPG

 

And that's as far as I've got so far. I'll be back once I've got some more to show.

Thanks for looking and any comments.

 

John.

 

 

 

 

 

 

  • Like 15
Link to comment
Share on other sites

43 minutes ago, Bullbasket said:

suffice it to say, the tubing is the thinnest in the pack, and the rod is fairly thick. (How’s that for technical exactitudes!)

 

 ^^ That made me chuckle ;)

 

 And that's a quality job on the bogies, a good solution to the painting Sherman wheels problem.

 

 Matt

  • Thanks 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

On 4/14/2021 at 7:03 AM, Bullbasket said:

 

One thing that I don’t like doing is painting the wheels once they are fitted to the VVSS units. I find it a RRPITA. So I’ve come up with a different way of doing them, so that the wheels and tyres can be painted separately. What is needed is some Slaters plastic tubing and some Slaters rod. I don’t know the sizes as they both came from mixed packets, suffice it to say, the tubing is the thinnest in the pack, and the rod is fairly thick. (How’s that for technical exactitudes!) Anyway, the rod is a nice snug fit into the tubing.

bef52844-2abb-4130-9706-33b85e01a0e3.JPG

 

The first job is to remove the rods that the wheels fit onto. On the half of the unit from which the rods were removed, a hole was drilled, about 1mm deep.

d3d7d78e-19f7-4fb9-a2b9-73f7ee7d32c6.JPG

 

511e060f-30e6-4c12-94b0-c664a739f878.JPG

 

These can then be glued together and left to dry. A piece of tube is cut 6mm long and inserted into the wheel. Then a piece of the rod 8mm long is cut and glued into the tube, making sure that it protrudes equally each side.

5012a737-4f30-42ed-b233-d10e13b6b606.JPG

 

As can be seen here, the wheels can then be snapped into place, and removed whenever required. I should add at this point that the insertion of tube and rod was done after painting to allow the wheels to be mounted on cocktail sticks for painting. Only this one was done to show the process.

d19b5d7f-7921-4a24-a41b-477f90d273be.JPG

 

The VVSS units were assembled as per the instructions. Before fixing the skid onto the top of each unit, the front edge was scraped with a blade and files, to give a thinner profile. Then four bolt heads were added to the skid. On the rear of the unit, a piece of thin card was glued in place, to cover up the join line, and then four more bolt heads were added.

8f1b3665-8b75-4061-a1e6-5d5d2e96e005.JPG

 

ba8f05df-e9b7-4377-a0dd-f24d4c68af35.JPG30a7f1b2-dfed-4bdf-8da3-32bbe0f6baa4.JPG

 

0d9fecb8-342d-4165-8603-5c0c2fb1bef1.JPG

 

And that's as far as I've got so far. I'll be back once I've got some more to show.

Thanks for looking and any comments.

 

John.

 

 

 

 

 

 

This is super helpful! Thank you John!

Nenad

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
×
×
  • Create New...