Jinxman Posted December 17, 2021 Share Posted December 17, 2021 Lots of excellent shots there - also lots of work to an already tricky kit. How are you approaching the markings - will you use stencils? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pin Posted December 17, 2021 Author Share Posted December 17, 2021 I will print my own decals, the kit offering of stickers is hardly acceptable I don't really see the real plane being heavily stenciled and I will not invent anything that is not there. I have noticed "walk here" sign on the wing that I am surely going to reproduce, apart from this I see no stencils at all. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pin Posted December 25, 2021 Author Share Posted December 25, 2021 Before I switch to Christmas Blitz: Two bladed props have a flat cut in the middle, clearly visible on this photo I tried to reproduce this Aileron control wires are connected to levers in two positions on each wing I have cast resin levers, actuators and wire support. The "pikes" are supposed to imitate turnbuckles New stabilizer and elevators, not quite happy with the surface yet On 12/17/2021 at 5:32 PM, Jinxman said: will you use stencils? I actually found some stencils on the photos A square crossed diagonally with two letters, one of which is "T", what does this mean? 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jinxman Posted December 25, 2021 Share Posted December 25, 2021 That's a lot of research! Is the T stencil a 'terminal' indication - similar to the W/T stencils on a Hurricane? I think it means there is an electrical bonding point in the vicinity for earthing purposes. Possibly that small item sticking out on the leading edge? In any case, more nice work. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KevinK Posted December 25, 2021 Share Posted December 25, 2021 (edited) It is indeed a "W/T" symbol, signifying the need for a good electrical bond. It stood for "wireless telegraphy" and came into existence when aircraft radio started: by equalizing the electrical potential across the whole airframe, electrical noise was minimized. Edited December 25, 2021 by KevinK typo 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pin Posted January 5, 2022 Author Share Posted January 5, 2022 I am continuously doing something but visually not much is changing. All these small wires, portholes, fairings and intakes take a lot of time. New corrected tail, all scratch built. <Don't know what is the right name for this aerodynamic boosting thingy> is not cut to length yet. Started to design the decals. Eventually I decided to go for dark blue registration and company insignia with black stencils. I have run out of paper and my previous supplier does not send to UK any more so I tried Hannants' and found it good - thin enough, no silvering I have applied "walk here" signs to try the paper out, it was not sealed and I have applied too much pressure so one of the lines has lost some pigment. While, of course, I can reprint I am thinking of leaving it as it is to give it some "worn" look 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pin Posted January 10, 2022 Author Share Posted January 10, 2022 Problem. The resin I used for the rocker was too soft and deformed overnight because of tension Redone the rockers with harder compound Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pin Posted January 11, 2022 Author Share Posted January 11, 2022 The Zen of the Wire ..... I must admit that I am a minority here as I don't like rigging. I LOVE rigging, to me it is an ultimate test of modelling endurance, along with applying a lozenge and splinted camo. It is like running a marathon or climbing a mountain (done both) - a lot of work, pain and determination just for the brief "I did this" moment There is still a lot of work of cleaning up - fixing all these glue spills and scratches, especially on NMF but it is mostly done. Casted a bunch of <no idea what is the right word for the things marked blue> Green marked stuff is not a fairing but a window 5 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pin Posted January 13, 2022 Author Share Posted January 13, 2022 Mounting engines. They were initially designed for HP42 that had different exhausts. 7 Outer engines carry two crisscrossed two bladed props Decals are printed. For some reason the White Ensign contains a Norvegian flag instead of the Union Jack. Need fix to reprint Imitating Flettner servo tabs I wanted to try one trick suggested by Eugene Knupfer of "Small Stuff". In order to obtain thin trailing edge and took a silicon mould of servo tab master made of paper. But unmodified it is too thin so I used a wedge to make a silicon form wide at one end I am really pleased with the result, it is cutting thin at one end and if reasonable width (just enough to drill a hole for a hinge) at the other 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pin Posted January 15, 2022 Author Share Posted January 15, 2022 Servo tab and "chin" with generators ant pitot tubes Unmasking is always thrilling. It always seems to me that the plane "opens its eyes" when the masks are removed. The child has opened the eyes, time to give her a name Readiness - 92% 4 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pin Posted January 16, 2022 Author Share Posted January 16, 2022 I decided to redo the chin Lowered the centre tower and placed wind generators wider. Much better Oops! One of the advantages of self printed decals is that you can always reprint White Ensign. I printed it on a transparent decal paper because I don't have white decal paper for laser printer and my inkjets are out of ink. Then I cut a piece of white decal paper to the size and transferred the flag image to the both sides Now the interesting bit. Apply a lot of "strong" decal solution liquid; the flag folds quite naturally 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pin Posted January 16, 2022 Author Share Posted January 16, 2022 I declare it completed. Tomorrow I maybe add a couple of nuances, maybe do some cleanup and do a proper photo session, but for now it is finally COMPLETED! 7 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MarkoZG Posted January 17, 2022 Share Posted January 17, 2022 Great, great work Alexey! I noticed this kit immediately when it was released, but hesitate from buying due to coarse surfaces and stickers instead of decals. You really managed to fix all the kit's flaws and your whole build is fascinating. Please, let me ask you some questions: 1. when smoothing the fuselage surface with corrugations, how did you sand it not to destroy corrugations? 2. on one of the photos you showed the wheel with extra detailing by yourself. What exactly did you add and how? 3. do you have any good photo of Scylla in military guise, impressed by RAF? 4. would you be willing to cast extra set of all your parts for this kit for me and of course under your price? Sincerely Marko Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pin Posted January 17, 2022 Author Share Posted January 17, 2022 1 minute ago, MarkoZG said: Great, great work Alexey! I noticed this kit immediately when it was released, but hesitate from buying due to coarse surfaces and stickers instead of decals. You really managed to fix all the kit's flaws and your whole build is fascinating. Please, let me ask you some questions: 1. when smoothing the fuselage surface with corrugations, how did you sand it not to destroy corrugations? 2. on one of the photos you showed the wheel with extra detailing by yourself. What exactly did you add and how? 3. do you have any good photo of Scylla in military guise, impressed by RAF? 4. would you be willing to cast extra set of all your parts for this kit for me and of course under your price? Sincerely Marko Thanks 1. I scribed "trenches" with thin chisel, after it became relatively smooth - a lot of Mr. Surfacer 500 and sanding on mandrel 2. I used this photo as a reference 2.a found a centre of the wheel, drilled it through with ~1mm (I don't remember the exact diameter) drill 2.b with larger drill (3 or maybe 4 mm) drilled off centre deepening, very shallow, less than 1mm deep 2.c inserted a brass tube into the hole in the middle to imitate a hub 2.d pinched with a needle and then drilled with a very fine drill (0.4 mm) four holes around the hub, inserted a short sticks of stretched sprue into the holes to imitate nuts around the hub 2.e pinched small holes across the disc 2.f punched a round inflating valve cover from self adhesive foil 3. I don't think L.17 were used by RAF. HP42 were 4. I surely can cast engines and airscrews, both 2 and 4 blades. Stabilizers and elevators will require significant work, the forms are damaged. Servo tab, maybe (rather "yes" than "no") and these guys (don't know what is it really) Not sure that rockers and levers are worthy. Note, that neither or these were initially intended for mass production and/or selling. The engines and propellers would also match HP42, in fact, they were designed for it. I also can laser print a set of decals Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MarkoZG Posted January 17, 2022 Share Posted January 17, 2022 Thank you, that would be great! How much would you ask for the whole set? Yes, it has been impressed in RAF at the beginning of WW2 and all I have are few photos with camouflaged Scylla in the back, too far to help me recreate the scheme. Here is one such photo. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pin Posted January 17, 2022 Author Share Posted January 17, 2022 I need to calculate, will be about 35-40£ + postage. I need to order supplies as I am short on resin. As for the pics - the plane does not seem to be camouflaged to me and still wears G-ACJJ registration. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jinxman Posted January 17, 2022 Share Posted January 17, 2022 Fantastic work, the kit is in my stash, and it is a lot of work and research to get it to look like this. If you are casting pieces, please consider me if you would? PM if it is better? Same with the decals, but I can inkjet if necessary. All the best! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pin Posted January 17, 2022 Author Share Posted January 17, 2022 Sure, Scott, do you need yet another set of engines and props? Just thinking, maybe I could detach a wheel and make a copy too Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jinxman Posted January 17, 2022 Share Posted January 17, 2022 2 minutes ago, Pin said: Sure, Scott, do you need yet another set of engines and props? Just thinking, maybe I could detach a wheel and make a copy too I am good for engines and props - if you could copy the wheel that would be great, but don't damage the masterpiece! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Roger Holden Posted January 17, 2022 Share Posted January 17, 2022 Great job and you nailed those decals.....apart from one thing. That flag is not the Royal Navy's White Ensign, but is the Civil Air Ensign, which was pale blue with a dark blue cross, instead of white and red. The prop blades were covered in fabric and painted medium grey, same as on the HP42. Pretty much standard on British aircraft of this era, to stop them absorbing moisture and warping. Also protected against erosion from rain and sand. No varnished wood, as you incorrectly see on so many models.... Are those engines going to be produced as aftermarket accessories ? They look very similar to the Small Stuff ones by Evgeny Kupfer. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pin Posted January 17, 2022 Author Share Posted January 17, 2022 Thanks Roger, maybe I will redo both the flag and blades one day, especially taking into account that it is not too hard to do, both are easily detachable. Maybe I just like the appearance of the wood too much The engine was designed by Musa Zekoreev from Prop&Jet who kindly shared the model with me. Although I have a permission I am not going to mass produce them but I can cast a set or two on request 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moggy Posted January 17, 2022 Share Posted January 17, 2022 Man, "brilliant modelling" doesn't quite cover it 😎 Even the advanced modeller has a few things to learn from your project... This is the most advanced, best executed build of a difficult kit I have seen for a long time 😻 Thank you for your WIP, -I'm going to use it for technique reference Cheers, Moggy (we are not worthy!) 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Roger Holden Posted January 17, 2022 Share Posted January 17, 2022 10 minutes ago, Pin said: The engine was designed by Musa Zekoreev from Prop&Jet who kindly shared the model with me. Although I have a permission I am not going to mass produce them but I can cast a set or two on request I've a Contrail HP42 that could use them, but if Prop & Jet are going to sell them, I won't trouble you for a set.... Won't need them for a while. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pin Posted January 17, 2022 Author Share Posted January 17, 2022 29 minutes ago, Roger Holden said: but if Prop & Jet are going to sell them There are no such plans as far as I know. Musa sells aftermarket under RaResin marque, he offers a slightly different version of Jupiter. I also have old Contrail as well as OneManModel's 3D printed version of HP42, thinking of k8tbashing, maybe, but I am surely in a need of some break to dive into this adventure again. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Roger Holden Posted January 17, 2022 Share Posted January 17, 2022 19 minutes ago, Pin said: There are no such plans as far as I know. Musa sells aftermarket under RaResin marque, he offers a slightly different version of Jupiter. Found the Raresin version, which has a different exhaust collector. In that case, please add my name to your list , in the event you make another batch..... Cheers, Roger 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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