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Matchbox 1/72 Hawker Fury 1


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Hi Folks

Please bear with me as there a number of firsts for me here, the main one being Ive never done a "Work in Progress" before😱.  I will mention the others in a mo.

 

I hope not to bore you to death🤐

 

I chose this kit for a few reasons, there is another forum that are going to do a Matchbox build (Im not going to do it though). But it reminded me of the first kit I ever built some 50 years ago. Bought as an xmas present and armed with just a tube of Airfix glue (see image below, may bring back a few memories to some of you😂).  Searched the internet and found one still in its original cellophane. 

 

The kit was first manufactured in 1972 through to the 90's with I understand only having box & decal changes but never any new moulds.  Mine is from 1982 so should be much the same as when I got my first one in 1974.

 

The other firsts for me will be😱

1. Polished metal cowling (have something in mind though)

2. A realistic wooden painted propeller (If on the reveal the prop is black you know I failed😭).

3. The rigging hmmmmm still trying to work that one out

 

So here are just a few pics but will add more as I progress

 

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The dreaded glue

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Thanks for looking and will be back soon,

 

Any suggestions, comments would be welcome

 

Many thanks

 

Si

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I use the 'holes right through' method of rigging - holes right through the wings

If you go for rigging and holes, drill now

Matchbox. afair, have the rigging points marked on the wings

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That's a great little kit, Sir.

 

As you are trying new things, may I suggest using foil for the cowling? Nothing looks quite so much like polished metal as polished metal.

 

For rigging I use elastic EZ-line, with CA gel and accelerator. Put a tiny dab of the gel where an end should go, wet the line with accelerator, touch it to the tiny dab, give things a slow ten count and it will hold. Make the line just a little shorter than needed. Tweezers will need a good tight grip.

 

As far as fit goes, the kit is quite good. The upper nose piece  seam has needed work when I have built this kit, but that is about all.

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6 minutes ago, Old Man said:

That's a great little kit, Sir.

 

As you are trying new things, may I suggest using foil for the cowling? Nothing looks quite so much like polished metal as polished metal.

 

For rigging I use elastic EZ-line, with CA gel and accelerator. Put a tiny dab of the gel where an end should go, wet the line with accelerator, touch it to the tiny dab, give things a slow ten count and it will hold. Make the line just a little shorter than needed. Tweezers will need a good tight grip.

 

As far as fit goes, the kit is quite good. The upper nose piece  seam has needed work when I have built this kit, but that is about all.

Thank you Old Man (sorry doesn't seem quite right calling you that if you know what I mean?😱😂😂).

 

Will take note and update as I go along thank you 

 

Si

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26 minutes ago, Simon Dyer said:

Thank you Old Man (sorry doesn't seem quite right calling you that if you know what I mean?😱😂😂).

 

Will take note and update as I go along thank you 

 

Si

Great kit Si. Keep at it.

 

Laurie

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Next to their Siskin and P-12E, this was a wonderful kt that was so  much  better than their non golden age kits. I have used either very thin stainless dental wire or sprue for 1/72 aircraft rigging, and you might want to look at some videos that show the use of AK  Interactive's  true metal wax- it seems to be a modern type of rub-n-buff, which was a material that always seemed to give a very scale-like polished metal finish to models, but was a bit of a pain to work with. My next Siskin and Fury models will most likely be done with the AK metallic waxes.

Mike

 

My old friend, master modeler, and author Roscoe Creed, used to take very small diameter brass  rod. stretch it out and fix so it held tension; and then using a file, created an airfoil shape  to make flying wires. Saw him do this on a 1/48 Travelaire Mystery ship, and they looked fantastic! Keeping that in mind if I ever get around to doing a P-26 or Gee Bee!

 

Can't wait to see your WIP as it progresses!

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20 minutes ago, 72modeler said:

Next to their Siskin and P-12E, this was a wonderful kt that was so  much  better than their non golden age kits. I have used either very thin stainless dental wire or sprue for 1/72 aircraft rigging, and you might want to look at some videos that show the use of AK  Interactive's  true metal wax- it seems to be a modern type of rub-n-buff, which was a material that always seemed to give a very scale-like polished metal finish to models, but was a bit of a pain to work with. My next Siskin and Fury models will most likely be done with the AK metallic waxes.

Mike

 

My old friend, master modeler, and author Roscoe Creed, used to take very small diameter brass  rod. stretch it out and fix so it held tension; and then using a file, created an airfoil shape  to make flying wires. Saw him do this on a 1/48 Travelaire Mystery ship, and they looked fantastic! Keeping that in mind if I ever get around to doing a P-26 or Gee Bee!

 

Can't wait to see your WIP as it progresses!

Thanks 72modeler. There are some interesting things I've been sent. Will have a practice and see what happens before I commit 

Thanks for coming back to me with  the info much appreciated 👍

Si

 

 

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Ah rigging one of the biggest old chestnuts of the scale modelling world. EZ line is ok, but personally I find the through holes method with fine fishing monofilament is easiest.

 

50188341736_94135b06ae_c.jpgEz line and CA

50263849902_59791257eb_c.jpg.5mm monofilament through holes. Both 1/48


resized_cf02f8ec-5f60-4de5-8877-679e4130My Airfix Swordfish still a work in progress .25mm monofilament.

Edited by Marklo
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38 minutes ago, Marklo said:

Ah rigging one of the biggest old chestnuts of the scale modelling world. EZ line is ok, but personally I find the through holes method with fine fishing monofilament is easiest.

 

50188341736_94135b06ae_c.jpgEz line and CA

50263849902_59791257eb_c.jpg.5mm monofilament through holes. Both 1/48


resized_cf02f8ec-5f60-4de5-8877-679e4130My Airfix Swordfish still a work in progress .25mm monofilament.

 

39 minutes ago, Marklo said:

Ah rigging one of the biggest old chestnuts of the scale modelling world. EZ line is ok, but personally I find the through holes method with fine fishing monofilament is easiest.

 

50188341736_94135b06ae_c.jpgEz line and CA

50263849902_59791257eb_c.jpg.5mm monofilament through holes. Both 1/48


resized_cf02f8ec-5f60-4de5-8877-679e4130My Airfix Swordfish still a work in progress .25mm monofilament.

Thanks Marklo much appreciated, plenty to try and get my head around 😱

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  • 3 weeks later...
On 13/03/2021 at 19:11, Marklo said:

Ah rigging one of the biggest old chestnuts of the scale modelling world. EZ line is ok, but personally I find the through holes method with fine fishing monofilament is easiest.

 

50188341736_94135b06ae_c.jpgEz line and CA

50263849902_59791257eb_c.jpg.5mm monofilament through holes. Both 1/48


resized_cf02f8ec-5f60-4de5-8877-679e4130My Airfix Swordfish still a work in progress .25mm monofilament.

Actually the Swordfish rigging was galvanised steel slats about 30mm(1.25 inches) * about 14mm (0.6 inches).  I asked the Fleet air Arm museum for the information when building my Swordfish.

 

Laurie

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7 minutes ago, LaurieS said:

Actually the Swordfish rigging was galvanised steel slats about 30mm(1.25 inches) * about 14mm (0.6 inches).  I asked the Fleet air Arm museum for the information when building my Swordfish.

That would mean my monofilament isn’t as overscake as I thought. That’s good.

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34 minutes ago, LaurieS said:

Actually the Swordfish rigging was galvanised steel slats about 30mm(1.25 inches) * about 14mm (0.6 inches).  I asked the Fleet air Arm museum for the information when building my Swordfish.

 

Laurie

Thanks Laurie, 

 

I have a way to go yet but again duly noted and has gone in my little book

 

Si

31 minutes ago, Hook said:

Nice progress!

 

Thank you 👍

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30 minutes ago, dogsbody said:

Simon, is it possible for you to post larger photos? These are quite small and hard for an ol' guy to see properly.

 

 

 

Chris

Hi Chris

 

I certainly will.  I did actually think that myself when I attached them as Im an ol guy as well.

 

Next lot will hopefully be 👌

 

Si

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22 minutes ago, bigbadbadge said:

Great work Simon,  starting to get there now, the prop will look good when you get some oil paint on it, I'm sure.

Chris

Thanks Chris

 

The reference Im using is from the Ammo Mig Encyclopedia of Aircraft Modelling Techniques (Vol 3), a superb set of books which recommends acrylics.

 

So going to start with acrylics as I want to get used to using the medium, plus I would like to use it to get my head around my nemesis😱......figure painting🙄

 

I do have on hand though the very useful IPA bath just in case I need to start again🤣 and may well end up using oils

 

Si

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4 minutes ago, Simon Dyer said:

Thanks Chris

 

The reference Im using is from the Ammo Mig Encyclopedia of Aircraft Modelling Techniques (Vol 3), a superb set of books which recommends acrylics.

 

So going to start with acrylics as I want to get used to using the medium, plus I would like to use it to get my head around my nemesis😱......figure painting🙄

 

I do have on hand though the very useful IPA bath just in case I need to start again🤣 and may well end up using oils

 

Si

Hi Simon 

Sorry fella,  I saw it with the bade coat on and automatically thought of oils for the wood effect, crikey using acrylics for it. I don't get on with them myself but will be interesting to see that. 

Chris

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