1/16 German figures

[The Great Escape]

Here’s a few 1/16 from Dragon and Tamiya that I’ve been working on during lockdown. I’m happy with how these came out and appreciated the helpful feedback last time I posted (I thinned my paints even more). 
 

Please continue to offer criticism as I’m still fairly new at figures. I think the first figure here is probably the best I’ve ever painted.

 

 

[Avereda]

They seem pretty faultless to me

[swralph]

All nicely finished.😀

[Crayons]

Nicely done paint work. My only criticism, mould lines. They stand out like the dogs danglies the larger the figure. More prep time will pay off in the long run.

 

A job well done, nonetheless.

[Big Dave S]

You're getting there.

I agree about Crayons' point re the flash lines. Time spent getting rid of those is well spent.

At least figures have fewer bits than planes/tanks/boats etc, so cleaning the parts up is quicker!

My one suggestion is to be bold with your shading, but add more stages: after the basic colour goes on, add at least 3 shades of 'shade' (basic shading, dark shading, deep shading), blending each into its neighbour. 

It will give the clothes more depth.

But having said all that, you seem to be getting skin right. Something I find challenging.

Nice work. I hope the figure painting hooks are getting sunk in firmly.

Enjoy the journey

Edited March 9, 2021 by Big Dave S

[John_W]

Nicely done. Nit picking, but lower half of MP40 was made of bakelite not metal so wouldn't wear silver.

[The Great Escape]

On 09/03/2021 at 04:51, Crayons said:

Nicely done paint work. My only criticism, mould lines. They stand out like the dogs danglies the larger the figure. More prep time will pay off in the long run.

 

A job well done, nonetheless.

Totally accept that! It does stand out on the MP40 trigger arm. Will try not to rush the prep in future - I’m always jumping ahead and painting too soon.
 

It’s helpful to have someone else point that out. 

 

Do you use just a fine grade sand paper? I’ve been using an old nail file, which clearly isn’t the best!

[The Great Escape]

On 09/03/2021 at 20:24, Big Dave S said:

My one suggestion is to be bold with your shading, but add more stages: after the basic colour goes on, add at least 3 shades of 'shade' (basic shading, dark shading, deep shading), blending each into its neighbour. 

It will give the clothes more depth.

 

Thanks and very true! You’ve spotted that I spend literally hours on a face but a disproportionate amount of time on the torso. I agree that I need to invest more in layering my shades.

[The Great Escape]

Thanks everyone for your helpful replies. I joined this group as I want to improve and the advice I’ve been given is helpful.

I watch lots of YouTube videos for techniques but there’s nothing like getting actual feedback on your own work; it is so valuable.

 

Preparation and patience is what I’m taking away from the feedback.

 

Thanks again for all of the comments.

 

 

[Crayons]

7 hours ago, The Great Escape said:

Totally accept that! It does stand out on the MP40 trigger arm. Will try not to rush the prep in future - I’m always jumping ahead and painting too soon.
 

It’s helpful to have someone else point that out. 

 

Do you use just a fine grade sand paper? I’ve been using an old nail file, which clearly isn’t the best!

I use a combination of needle files (Ebay) in various profiles, although I find myself using the oval shaped one the most. And various grades of wet and dry sandpaper (hardware store) 400, 800 and 1200 grit.

 

As I work mostly on resin figures, any form of sanding is best done wet as the dust from resin can cause long term respiratory issues.

 

Hope this helps.