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Best modelling tools for maritime?


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Oh yes!

Incra-rule seconded. Very good bit of kit. You can also get a set-square infra rule and a mid-point-finding infra rule that has zero at the centre and symmetrical distances measured out on either side. 

These are all high quality and very useful tools.

A good quality set of electronic calipers are also indispensable.

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5 hours ago, longshanks said:

I have that set.

Very useful! 

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  • 2 weeks later...
On 3/12/2021 at 4:20 PM, Bandsaw Steve said:

A Dremmell tool (or equivalent by other similar manufacturer such as Proxxon) with a variety of attachments is always useful.

I've found the router bits quite useful. Moreso by twirling them by hand than in the drill. The smallest ball-end router is particularly useful.

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Maybe, Kev,

I was wondering what Steve was referring to.

That's what I'd call a 'T-square' in your link.

To me, a 'set-square' is a triangular gubbins with a 30 or 45 degree side.

The mid-point finder sounds interesting. Something like a protractor?

Tom

Thinking on. A protractor with little holes around the rim (like the Infra Rule) would be very useful.

Edited by Modelholic
further thoughts
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https://www.incra.com/measuring_marking-marking_rules.html

 

Hello,

 

Sorry to take a while to get back to you.  I believe that the link above will take you to 'Incra Precision Tools' home page and you should be able to find everything they make here.

 

Yes - @Modelholic is correct. I was referring to a 'T square' and  incorrectly called it a 'Set Square'. I don't know if incra do an actual set square as modelholic has described above but I'm guessing they do.

 

https://incra.com/measuring_marking-specialty_rules.html

 

On this page you can find both their protractors and centering rules.

 

The centering rules are just a 'normal' ruler with a zero point in the middle and measurements extending away from the centre.  So if for example you wanted to find the exact half way point on a length of wood you move the ruler until the value at each end is identical and then mark the zero point.  The zero point will be the exact half way point.

 

I would suggest having a poke around on this website because there's quite a bit of potentially useful stuff here. I've only bought a handful of bits and pieces my local woodworking shop had in stock but it's all very good quality and it gets plenty of use.

 

Best Regards,

Steve  

 

 

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On 3/7/2021 at 12:48 AM, dnl42 said:

Beside a knife handle and plentiful blade supply, I use the following tools in most of my builds. I didn't list sources, as all of mine are in the US--not so useful.

  • 0-, 2-, 4-, and 6-cut Swiss pattern needle files. I really like Vallorbe Grobet files. Not cheap, but they're oh so nice. Equaling files are my most commonly used file, followed by crossing files. I like the ~7cm cut length  (14 cm overall length). I primarily use needle files for any sort of abrasive work. The 0-cut file will aggressively remove material while the 6-cut will produce a perfectly smooth surface. After that, I use flexible sanding sticks and sometimes a sheet laid down on a glass sheet.

 

 

HTH

-- 

dnl


Hi, apologies gor jumping on this thread, but may I ask where you buy your needle files from.  I have been looking for some very fine ones for working with white metal wargaming figures - ones that can get into tight places and leave a smooth surface rather than scratches.

 

Many thanks,

 

Nigel

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16 minutes ago, nheather said:


Hi, apologies gor jumping on this thread, but may I ask where you buy your needle files from.  I have been looking for some very fine ones for working with white metal wargaming figures - ones that can get into tight places and leave a smooth surface rather than scratches.

My source is MSC Industrial Supply in the US. The Vallorbe dealer page may help with a local supplier.

 

I highly recommend the Vallorbe files, they're head and shoulders above "hobby" files.

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9 hours ago, dnl42 said:

My source is MSC Industrial Supply in the US. The Vallorbe dealer page may help with a local supplier.

 

I highly recommend the Vallorbe files, they're head and shoulders above "hobby" files.


Whoops, didn’t spot you were in the US.

 

I have looked on and off for the past year or two and struggled to find anyone in the UK with a decent range selling to the public.  The dealers page that you linked just gives four distributing agents in the UK, not retailers so I would be surprised if they would deal with enquiries from joe-public.

 

Actually one of them does have a site but that turns out to be for climbing gear who do stock Vallorbe products, but only ones designed for working with chainsaws.

 

It’s better just to google for ‘vallorbe uk’ and that does turn up retailers but they tend to just offer Cut 0 and Cut 2 which I imagine are too harsh for what I need.

 

I could do with some advice - my primary need is to work on the white metal of wargaming miniatures.  This metal is pretty soft, you can trim flash and mould lines with a scalpel but the figures have tricky areas to get too so files are great.  The trouble is that the metal is so soft that my common or garden needle files (traditional and diamond) leave visible scratches in the metal.

 

Is there a cut that would avoid that.  What cuts would you recommend for working with softer metals.

 

Cheers,

 

Nigel

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I picked up a rat-tail file years ago (40+!) from my LMS which has been invaluable for those sort of tasks.  It's about 3 inches long and tapers from 0.5 mm at its tip to just under 1 mm at it's widest point.  Sadly I've never seen one since!

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On 10/03/2021 at 18:35, Chewbacca said:

Thanks.  It's not so much cutting bits from the fret that send them into orbit but when I have the CA on the model and I pick up the tiny piece to put in place.  Or in some cases not even the quite so tiny piece!


A simple sausage rolled from blutack works for this. And can hold the part in place whilst the glue sets.

 

 

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6 hours ago, Chewbacca said:

I picked up a rat-tail file years ago (40+!) from my LMS which has been invaluable for those sort of tasks.  It's about 3 inches long and tapers from 0.5 mm at its tip to just under 1 mm at it's widest point.  Sadly I've never seen one since!

Here's a discussion on files; you want to look for round taper Swiss-pattern needle files. Available in 0, 2, 4, and 6-cut. 0-cut aggressively remover material; 6-cut provides a fine polish.

 

My round taper needle files' maximum diameters are 2.3mm for the 5cm cut length or 3mm for the 7cm cut length; they taper down to 0.65mm at the tip

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On 05/04/2021 at 20:09, Nick Belbin said:


A simple sausage rolled from blutack works for this. And can hold the part in place whilst the glue sets.

 

 

Last couple of times I tried this I ended up getting blu-tac on the glue which of course then separated when I tried to pull it away leving behind a small blue blob that took an age to remove.  Just blame my incompetence I guess.!

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5 hours ago, Chewbacca said:

Last couple of times I tried this I ended up getting blu-tac on the glue which of course then separated when I tried to pull it away leving behind a small blue blob that took an age to remove.  Just blame my incompetence I guess.!

 

A watchmaker would use Bergeon Rodico (instead of blu-tac).

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Modelling tools....Best sources in UK that I can  think of

Proops 

Shesto 

Squires 

Little Tools

Eileens Emporium

Hobbys 

Hobbies 

Euromodels 

Cornwall Model Boats

 

All these carry big tool inventories.

In the USA Micro Mark appears to be the largest model tool supplier that I know of.

 

Footnote.  Avoid PCB drill bits. They are made of tungsten carbide and very brittle. The smaller diameters break very easily. Carbon steel drills are more robust for model making.

Edited by Noel Smith
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