whaynes Posted March 5, 2021 Share Posted March 5, 2021 What would you recommend for the silver dope finishes on early WW II trainers such as the PT-13/17 Stearmans? Thanks, Walt Haynes Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
72modeler Posted March 5, 2021 Share Posted March 5, 2021 I'm one of those enamel-using dinosaurs, ( Me and @tonyot are brothers from another mother when it comes to enamels!) so my go-to mix for silver doped finishes is either Pactra flat aluminum ('way before your time, I bet!) or Modelmaster flat aluminum with a few drops of light grey added, which not only makes it look right, but also spray better through my airbrush. Flouquil old silver, brite silver, or platinum mist, which I also have, mixed with a few drops of light grey also look about right, but like the Testors Modelmaster enamels, they are long gone. I've heard good reports regarding the Tamiya acrylic flat aluminum, which I think is AS12, but has to be decanted into a bottle, as IIRC it is only available in a rattle can. I'm sure those who are much better versed in the new acrylics, such as the AK, Hataka, or Vallejo brands might be better equipped to help you. If you end up using one of the flatter acrylic aluminum paints, you might need to overcoat with a clear satin or semi-gloss to get the sheen that is visible on aluminum doped aircraft when they are new. When you look at photos, you will see what I mean. Hope this helps a little until the experts come along! Mike 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rossm Posted March 5, 2021 Share Posted March 5, 2021 I use Tamiya Flat Aluminium from a bottle - XF-16 - with either their varnish or Kleer to get a gloss for decals and then your choice of flat or satin to seal in the decals. 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dnl42 Posted March 5, 2021 Share Posted March 5, 2021 I use Alclad Dull Aluminum for fabric surfaces on NMF aircraft. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Black Knight Posted March 5, 2021 Share Posted March 5, 2021 Another enamel user, but also acrylic I put on a base coat of Humbrol 56 Aluminium enamel, then a coat of Humbrol 56 & 11 mix that has a very small amount of light grey in it. This gets matt varnished 5 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Seawinder Posted March 5, 2021 Share Posted March 5, 2021 Seems to me, if one is going to end up clear-coating anyway, doesn't make sense to start with a flat metallic, which is just going to make it harder to apply decals. I'd go with one of the Alclad medium gloss finishes -- probably Duraluminum or High Speed Aluminum, apply the decals directly, and then use some mix of gloss and flat clear to achieve the desired sheen. 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
whaynes Posted March 5, 2021 Author Share Posted March 5, 2021 Thanks, all to the replies. Guess I've got several options. And, 72 modeler, I'm 72, so , yes, I remember. Best, Walt 1 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Richard Humm Posted March 6, 2021 Share Posted March 6, 2021 20 hours ago, 72modeler said: I've heard good reports regarding the Tamiya acrylic flat aluminum, which I think is AS12, but has to be decanted into a bottle, as IIRC it is only available in a rattle can. There's no need to decant it any more, as it's available in a jar as LP-38. It's a lacquer, though, as are all the Tamiya spray paints. 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Magpie22 Posted March 7, 2021 Share Posted March 7, 2021 On 3/6/2021 at 2:16 AM, 72modeler said: I'm one of those enamel-using dinosaurs, ( Me and @tonyot are brothers from another mother when it comes to enamels!) so my go-to mix for silver doped finishes is either Pactra flat aluminum ('way before your time, I bet!) or Modelmaster flat aluminum with a few drops of light grey added, which not only makes it look right, but also spray better through my airbrush. Flouquil old silver, brite silver, or platinum mist, which I also have, mixed with a few drops of light grey also look about right, but like the Testors Modelmaster enamels, they are long gone. I've heard good reports regarding the Tamiya acrylic flat aluminum, which I think is AS12, but has to be decanted into a bottle, as IIRC it is only available in a rattle can. I'm sure those who are much better versed in the new acrylics, such as the AK, Hataka, or Vallejo brands might be better equipped to help you. If you end up using one of the flatter acrylic aluminum paints, you might need to overcoat with a clear satin or semi-gloss to get the sheen that is visible on aluminum doped aircraft when they are new. When you look at photos, you will see what I mean. Hope this helps a little until the experts come along! Mike Can I join the enamel dinosaurs band of brothers? I too an enamel addict - have been ever since I started modelling - and that's a loooong time ago. Peter M 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
72modeler Posted March 7, 2021 Share Posted March 7, 2021 On 3/5/2021 at 4:17 PM, whaynes said: And, 72 modeler, I'm 72, so , yes, I remember. So am I! I knew I liked you for a good reason! You know what they say, "Old age and treachery beats youth and enthusiasm every time!" Mike, aka God's Older Brother, as Missus 72modeler calls me all the time! 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Magpie22 Posted March 8, 2021 Share Posted March 8, 2021 9 hours ago, 72modeler said: So am I! I knew I liked you for a good reason! You know what they say, "Old age and treachery beats youth and enthusiasm every time!" Mike, aka God's Older Brother, as Missus 72modeler calls me all the time! Huh!! You are mere youngsters! Peter M Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Massimo Tessitori Posted March 8, 2021 Share Posted March 8, 2021 I've used the acrilic aluminum of Revell, and I'm enthusiast for the finesse of its grains. Tamiya and Gunze are easy to use, but create well visible metallic grains. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete F Posted March 8, 2021 Share Posted March 8, 2021 Vallejo Metal Color do a set https://acrylicosvallejo.com/en/product/hobby/sets/metal-color-sets-en/aluminium-dope-77603/ with instructions. I haven't used this particular combination but I have used Metal Color Aluminium and Jet Exhaust on a recent EE Lightning and it came out very well. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
keith in the uk Posted March 10, 2021 Share Posted March 10, 2021 Humbrol Metal coat , polished Aluminium , works every time . Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jonners Posted March 10, 2021 Share Posted March 10, 2021 (edited) On 3/10/2021 at 1:26 PM, keith in the uk said: Humbrol Metal coat , polished Aluminium , works every time Wot Keith said. I always use Humbrol Polished Aluminium from an aerosol can, applied over a grey primer base. It takes two or three coats to get a smooth finish. I then apply a couple of coats of Future/Klear before decalling, then I cover the lot with well-thinned Humbrol Matt Cote using an airbrush: Jon Edited March 12, 2021 by Jonners 4 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
825 Posted March 10, 2021 Share Posted March 10, 2021 Like @Massimo Tessitori I'm a fan of Revell Acquacolor Aluminium. I brush paint so it's important to use thin coats which have been thinned with Flow Improver. I use a fairly large brush, in comparison to the small 1:72 planes I make, and the brush lightly charged, close even to dry, as for dry brushing and then lay down thin coats always brushing the same way. Although acrylic, the Flow Improver will also retard drying enough to let the paint be brushed out nice and smooth. Here's a CMK resin Nimrod that's nearing completion. 6 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheyJammedKenny! Posted March 10, 2021 Share Posted March 10, 2021 These are all great ideas! I had no idea that Vallejo has aluminum dope! I would have suggested using white aluminum to break up the monotony of the airframe. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Putty Animal Posted April 9, 2021 Share Posted April 9, 2021 For lacquers Mr Metal Color 218 Aluminium mixed with just a few drops of gloss white gives a nice representation of doped silver fabric. The pigments are very fine and don't appear too grainy. Even in the smaller scales. 7 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
72modeler Posted April 9, 2021 Share Posted April 9, 2021 @Putty Animal, If that's the CMR resin Sparrowhawk in 1/72, you either have incredible eyesight and monkey hands or a spider and a three-inch whip! Awesome little model, and I do mean little! Good on yer! Mike 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
malpaso Posted April 9, 2021 Share Posted April 9, 2021 I've used Tamiya XF-16 Flat Aluminium - a dash of white or pale grey makes it look slightly used and seems to eliminate any metallic particle appearance! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Putty Animal Posted April 9, 2021 Share Posted April 9, 2021 6 hours ago, 72modeler said: @Putty Animal, If that's the CMR resin Sparrowhawk in 1/72, you either have incredible eyesight and monkey hands or a spider and a three-inch whip! Awesome little model, and I do mean little! Good on yer! Mike Hi Mike, it’s worse than that I’m afraid. It’s made from scratch in 1/144 scale. 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
72modeler Posted April 9, 2021 Share Posted April 9, 2021 8 minutes ago, Putty Animal said: It’s made from scratch in 1/144 scale. You, sir, are certifiably insane and a steely-eyed model builder! Mike 1 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Putty Animal Posted April 9, 2021 Share Posted April 9, 2021 Hehe thanks. It’s certainly a cutie. I forgot to mention earlier for anyone adding white to their silver; be careful not to add too much. The silver actually appears darker with the more white that you add. It’s a good idea to mix some and paint a test piece first before committing to the finished model. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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