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1/72 HMNZS Waikato


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  • 2 weeks later...

Been doing a bit more work on the foremast - still a bit to go but getting there 

First I started with the 1006 nav radar platform - originally this was wedge shaped as can be seen in this picture
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but sometime during early/mid 80s (at least before 88) it was simplified to a flat platform, I was kindly supplied some good detail photos of HMNZS Wellington that had the same style 1006 platform.
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so I used that as a basis for my modelling
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Did a bit more work on rest of foremast, still have the lower yardarm walk rails to fit and some sensors, the vents on rear of foremast and the detail on the mast top including the HF/DF birdcage. 

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Loving this.  with every update it is looking more and more like the real thing.

 

On 15/08/2021 at 09:10, Niall said:

You can get decal film that can be printed on with an inkjet printer to make custom decals. I've used this company -

https://www.craftycomputerpaper.co.uk/9-best-water-slide-decal-sheets-reviewed/

If you can access a colour laser printer, I strongly recommend their laser decal sheet.  Not only do laser printers usually have a much better resolution, it saves having to faff about with sealing the decals before putting them into water.

 

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  • 2 weeks later...

Greetings Alun,

Have only just found your site but am very grateful for the content and quality.  I served in Waikato briefly in 1970 and CY in 1972-3 but memory is not a reliable source anymore.  You have filled in some source gaps for me while I build from scratch, a 1:96 model of Waikato for the early to mid 80's.  This has meant some changes to my drawings and some almost completed work. It has also highlighted some points I would like to assist you with as I would be sorry to see such excellent effort spent on your fine model spoilt by one or two mistakes. I mean no offence with the following observation.

If I read your photos correctly, the model bridge front screen is vertical, and there are awkward twists in the forward face of the wings.  In fact the screen is sloped aft about three degrees and the top third is imperceptably faceted to meet with the three centreline window angles. I have had a devil of a job getting mine right so apologise for raising this.

Best wishes, Rod 

 

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3 hours ago, Rod Davies said:

I have had a devil of a job getting mine right so apologise for raising this.

This is why I need to do wips. The level of knowledge on this site is most impressive and helpful (even if it may lead to further surgery).

 

And looking amazing Alun, the detail present in this build is quite staggering.

 

David

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  • 1 month later...
  • 1 month later...

Been a long time between drinks but finally found a bit of motivation (and more importantly time) to get set up again and do a bit more work. Just working on some of the O1 deck details, the main mast, emergency coning position (fender stowage), potato locker, sea cat deck and director etc. 

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This shows a port side shot of the area from late 90s - Seacat had been removed by this time but gives some guidance.

Also found a couple of close ups of HMNZS Canterbury - also late 90s with Phalanx - not sure about the cement mixer - maybe a budget DIY Chaff launcher ? 

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They are not identical but did give some idea of detail. Also had a few other photos and the plans from the RNZN Museum.

At present it is in three pieces, SC Director housing and deck, main O1/O2 deck and main mast. 

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Fixed some resin watertight doors in correct sport and did some overhang detail and pipework and ladder.
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Couple of portholes still to be drilled out and fitted (where guide holes are) 
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Gives idea of placement against main mast and O1/O2 deck. Edges of mast will be blended / rounded with putty as will the join to the director.

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I had to add some plastic card to the main mast - the one I had was slightly small based on plans. will putty edges and sand to rounded edge profile. Went with bottom engine room vent hatches closed but will fit the flap for the top ones later in process. 
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Quiet a bit more to add but happy with progress. Couple more little bits to do then will probably connect the three pieces and do some putty work before final details.

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  • 1 year later...

Like a phoenix rising from the ashes I have decided its about time I resurrected this build. Everything has been in my man cave for the last 20 months or so but spent 30 minutes this afternoon checking everything and am pretty pleased that apart from a light coat of dusk and one as yet unaccounted for part (so one I had made from scratch so replaceable) everything has stood up well. Watch this space, hope to make some progress over the next week. 

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Already had a busy day planned but was determined to get a little done to reinforce my conviction. Spent an hour or so tidying up workspace and setting it up again. As mentioned yesterday I had found all parts with the exception of one, the checker plate piece for the cable deck, so I had to make up a new template, then cut a new one from checker plate plastic card and paint black (after photo) . Note nothing fixed in place so some pieces have moved. 

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I go on a two week cruise in four weeks time so have set the goal of getting the forecastle / cable deck completed by then. I have most of the components built and picked up some 1mm wood veneer today to cut into strips to make the wooden beadings that ran around the top of the round downs, just inside the guard rail stanchions. 

 I did a quick test fit of a number of components just to see if any potential issues, including the anchor. 

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I also quickly whipped up a couple of cradle pieces to hold it steady and stable whilst I work on it. Not much work but in comparison to the last year its a lot and has at least started momentum and enthusiasm again. 

 

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An hour or so after work today , started to fix the components to the forecastle/cable deck. Bollards and Roller fairleads, capstans and naval pipes are resin. Fairleads and capstan brakes are metal parts and the cable racks, hawse pipe surrounds and cable deck checker plate are scratch built from plastic card.

 

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Next steps will be to scratch build the deck eyes for fitting the blake slip and riding slips and fitting the cable which I painted tonight. Then I will be building the bases for the rail stanchions and the anchor platforms and jack staff frame. 

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Another hour or so after work. Continued to work on the forecastle. Added the mounting points for the forward guardrail stanchions.  From what I can see these appear to be square mounts forward of the first set of fairleads and then cylindrical aft of those fairleads with a small square flat plate on top. The stanchions them selves have been drilled but not fixed in place yet, so any leans will be fixed but have found by experience it helps to have freedom of movement when trying the thread the guardrails through the minute eyes on the stanchions. 

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I also made and fitted the round access hatch just aft of the centreline bollards. From memory this went down into the paint shop below and when weighing anchor we opened it to aid communication down to the cable locker to ensure the cable was flaking properly. For some reason it was dark green, about the only thing that colour on the ship. I also scratch made some deck mounting eyes from plastic card.  You can see them on the inner of the cable and just of the outer edge of check plating before naval pipe (hooded pipe the cable comes out of from cable locker) . These in turn had the Blake slips attached. Riding slips on the aft two  pair and a bottle screw on the front ones to hold the anchor shaft hard home. I will tackle making these in next stage. The main cable has been painted and fitted. I will also cut, stain and fit the wooden beading from the roller fairleads forward before moving on to the slope and the breakwaters.

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Next step will be to build the two fold out anchor viewing platforms (these are basically a metal grill that folded down and gave a small platform to stand on to view the anchor and see over the round down/overhang. I can't remember specifically what we called these. They are positioned between the 2nd and 3rd stanchion from the bow. I will also fit the bull ring fairlead at the bow and the jack staff poles. There is also a couple of fire hydrants that were used for washing cable when weighing anchor and for cable deck washdowns. 

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Edited by Alun Gallie
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A bit more work today. I knew the Blake slips would be tricky but just wanted something to approximate them. I had some cable for 1/144 scale that was about (surprise !) half the size of the 1/72 anchor cable so I fashioned some slip hooks out of plastic card and made up some slips. For the bottle screw I just used a small piece of styrene rod of diameter about the same as cable. 

 

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Showing fitted on anchor cable

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I also added the stanchion bases for half of the port side of cable deck, and tried staining so veneer to make the beading. I fitted a jack staff support (the actual jack staff was wooden and attached to this frame when entering harbour and then was struck down and stored under the waist overheads at sea. It still need a ring at the top. 

 

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I also made and fitted the anchor watch platforms, they are just styrene c channel and thin styrene rod. 

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Had a go at fitting Blake slips but had reached that stage of fiddly work where I was gluing everything but the piece I wanted and getting crappy hardware store super glue all over my fingers so decided to call it a day and drop into model shop before the weekend and get some good model grade super glue and tackle that task fresh. There is a few minor paint touch ups I will need to do but will probably leave those until finish.

 

Still to do 

 

1) guard rail stanchion bases starboard

2) beading starboard

3) fit slips

4) fire hydrant port and starboard 

5) jack staff ring

6)  fit fishing line guard rail (probably at later stage) 

 

 

Edited by Alun Gallie
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A busy weekend and an early start today for world cup quarter final (my sympathy to any Irish members but it was a classic game) 

 

I mounted the anchors which I had painted yesterday.

 

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I also fitted the Blake slips discussed previously. In an effort to explain some of the jargon I use - these were fitted around the cable and acted as safeties to stop the main cable slipping. The purpose of the bottle screw was to hold the anchor hard home to stop rattle whilst the other two did similar for the cable. It was also how the anchor was slipped. In preparing to anchor two of the slips would be removed and the cable drum (bottom of the capstan) brake released (the little hand wheels) then on the slip command the final slip would be hit off with a sledge hammer and the anchor would drop.  

 

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I also fitted the beadings (mahogany wooden strip along deck edge that helped direct water to the scuppers (drainage points) ) and the base and guard rail stanchions on the port side. 

I also did a bit of prep on the forward breakwater (the chevron shaped 'barrier' on the deck slope that was designed to break water flow from waves and direct it down both sides of the turret) and some of the air vents for the next section.  

 

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