Dads203 Posted March 13, 2021 Share Posted March 13, 2021 Class work Matt, the quality of the work is first rate mate and I’m looking forward to seeing the finished build fella 1 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cerberus Posted March 13, 2021 Author Share Posted March 13, 2021 6 hours ago, Bullbasket said: If I say this quietly, maybe Darryl won't notice, but Panda Plastics make a set. They sent me a set by mistake once, and then told me to keep them or pass them on to someone who needed them. Maybe one day I'll follow your example and build a Grizzly. They do indeed yes, but do they include the drive sprockets? Did you get 2 sprockets when they sent you that set?, CDP track runs on sprockets that are radically different to the more usual Sherman sprockets. Matt Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cerberus Posted March 14, 2021 Author Share Posted March 14, 2021 @edjbartos and @Dads203 Thank you folks, kind words Matt Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cerberus Posted March 14, 2021 Author Share Posted March 14, 2021 (edited) Fade to Grey Now the upper hull needs the same kind of work as the turret has just had in terms of applique armour, except that this time there are a few more choices, with the M4A1 Grizzly the cast upper hull can be set up in three different configurations, It can have either welded on applique armour plates, cast in applique armour or no extra armour at all on the upper hull, such as the Bovington Grizzly for example, Tasca provide a set of welded on applique armour plates in the kit, which can be used if you want, cast in applique armour will require a little more work though, unless of course you just buy a resin hull top that already has the cast in armour, which would speed things up. Welded Applique Armour Plates The pictures above, a nice example of the welded on applique armour plates on the sides of a cast hull, showing how the plates have been cut so that they fit the shape/curves of the cast hull better, with the top edge of the front plate cut into three small sections (picture left) And this front plate can vary quite a lot to be honest, they are not all done like this, but the above pictures are a good example of how most of them seemed to have been done. Pictures above, So if you wanted to do welded on applique armour plates then you can either use the Tasca plates as they are, cut up the Tasca plates to resemble the reference pictures above, or simply make some new ones from plastic card as shown here, just make sure to put some flame cut edges on them, do some fairly rough welds and it would be job done. Cast in Applique Armour The best example of cast in applique armour that I can find is this very nice Panzer Art resin hull top, these two pictures give a good idea of what you need to aim for I think with regards to the lumps that need to be added to the Tasca hull, or a good idea of what you can actually buy if you want cast applique armour on your hull. (Panzer Art resin hull (M4A1 small hatch, cast in applique) For Discussion Only) But anyway, I chose to do cast in applique armour on my hull, and regretted that choice almost instantly to be honest, I had it pegged down as an easy job, I was very wrong (not for the first time it has to said) It turns out that my skill set doesn't include doing nonsense like this, and I hate working with sculpting putty because it always seems to make such a blinking mess... Pictures above, I decided to do things the hard way and glued on various lumps of white plastic card, going way over in terms of thickness so that I could bring it back down, and then started to re-shape and blend in with ca/powder, and I have to say that if I was doing this again then I would just use Milliput, or any other sculpting putty, as I think it would be far easier and quicker in the long run, plus it would be easier to correct mistakes as you go along with a sculpting putty, more on this later... Pictures above, and I ended up with this, It's not a bad first try I suppose, but I did get one of the lumps wrong, somehow while eye balling it from reference pictures and pictures of a resin hull I managed to cut one of the applique armour lumps back way too far, which resulted in the gap between the lumps being too wide, so I'm currently in the process of sorting that out, I have got to glue in some more plastic and then do some more shaping and blending work. Picture above, fade to grey, the whole of the upper hull has been painted with various grades of Mr Surfacer, for reasons that are very hard to explain (even to myself) Grizzly Guardian, gate guard, she's been outside a very long time, in all weathers, painted with all kinds of junk paint, layer over layer, plus I'm working to a grey and white theme... Matt Edited March 14, 2021 by Cerberus 14 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vytautas Posted March 14, 2021 Share Posted March 14, 2021 You don't cease to amaze me! Tremendous work, Matt, I am really enjoying following your thread! Vytautas 1 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bullbasket Posted March 14, 2021 Share Posted March 14, 2021 18 hours ago, Cerberus said: but do they include the drive sprockets? I thought that I'd check before putting foot in mouth, but yes, PP have included the proper drive sprockets. Neat work with the applique armour. This is certainly a modelling masterclass. John. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cerberus Posted March 14, 2021 Author Share Posted March 14, 2021 (edited) 23 hours ago, vytautas said: I am really enjoying following your thread! Thanks Vytautas, It's good to hear that your enjoying the build log, I'll try and keep it enjoyable by not rambling on too much 20 hours ago, Bullbasket said: I thought that I'd check before putting foot in mouth, but yes, PP have included the proper drive sprockets With ref to foot/mouth from that other thread - I wasn't sure either to be honest, I had to go check an unboxing vid, lol And with ref to tracks, it's good that they include the sprockets, I think they cost about £25 (ish) which puts them about the same as Friuls, so they are another option for CDP track, which is good, and thx for the kind comments. Matt Edited March 15, 2021 by Cerberus 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Robert_Y Posted March 15, 2021 Share Posted March 15, 2021 Really fine work! 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
edjbartos Posted March 15, 2021 Share Posted March 15, 2021 More excellent work from you Matt, this will look amazing when finished I'm certain of that... Ed 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
M3talpig Posted March 15, 2021 Share Posted March 15, 2021 Just an absolutely stunning level of professionalism being displayed with this build...not just the modeling but the sheer scope of the research ....... i really am blown away with just how good this looks.......it really is as John @Bullbaskethas already said a masterclass in how too.................beautiful just beautiful. 1 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cerberus Posted March 15, 2021 Author Share Posted March 15, 2021 @Robert_Y and @edjbartos and @M3talpig Thank you very much for all the kind words, means a lot, makes it worthwhile to keep battling on with this build And keep going with your fantastic Tiger 1 build M3talpig, the Tiger 1 superthread is a cool thread to just hang out and look at some very nice builds On 13/03/2021 at 08:17, Bullbasket said: Maybe one day I'll follow your example and build a Grizzly. How about a Canadian AA Skink John? that would use up those tracks and sprocket of yours, It would be something different maybe, and I think there might be a resin turret available now (not sure) or is it Shapeways who do the turret now? I can never remember... It would certainly make a good build log that's for sure, there's some crazy turret nonsense going on there... Matt 5 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bullbasket Posted March 16, 2021 Share Posted March 16, 2021 7 hours ago, Cerberus said: How about a Canadian AA Skink John? that would use up those tracks and sprocket of yours, It would be something different maybe, and I think there might be a resin turret available now (not sure) or is it Shapeways who do the turret now? I can never remember... Now there's an idea. I think that you're right about a resin conversion. I'm sure that I've seen one advertised somewhere. Someone will post it if they know. John. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pig of the Week Posted March 16, 2021 Share Posted March 16, 2021 (edited) Just discovered this and read thru it, I was initially interested to see your use of mc rivets and bolts. ...as a result my previous zero working knowledge of the old "tommy cooker" has now been expanded exponentially !... Brilliant stuff sir... a proper miniature engineering job ! Edited March 16, 2021 by Pig of the Week 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cerberus Posted March 16, 2021 Author Share Posted March 16, 2021 3 hours ago, Pig of the Week said: Just discovered this and read thru it, I was initially interested to see your use of mc rivets and bolts. Those little grey resin bolts have a lot to answer for to be honest, they look good when placed in white plastic, and then things just spiral... The rivets should be very good for your Loco project, they side step the problem of the rivet head (or bolt head) sitting in a pool of glue, which can sometimes be a problem because the glue can swamp the rivet/bolt head, these Masterclub rivets/bolts are mounted on a stem, so you can just drill a hole and push them through, snip flush, then glue from the back with ca, and if you can't glue from the back then just use a tight interference fit, they tend not to fall out again, having/owning at least 2 very good pin vices can really help, plus a large supply of teeny tiny drill bits The downside, you have to be very precise with your marking out and hole drilling, the human eye can spot very small differences in what should be equal spacing, even more so when a line of bolts or rivets are placed close to a defined edge or line, and if your eye don't spot it, a camera will that's for sure, but having said that, you can revert back to the old way and simply cut the heads of the stem and then glue on with a slow setting glue that will allow adjustments, if you haven't used them before then it's best to just practice with a few on some old scrap card, get the hang of the drill sizes that are needed, that kinda thing. And be prepared to break teeny tiny drill bits... Matt 4 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
M3talpig Posted March 16, 2021 Share Posted March 16, 2021 23 minutes ago, Cerberus said: And be prepared to break teeny tiny drill bits... I have had this happen so often that it gets to be a bit depressing after a while....i must have 7 sets of drill bits most have one or two broken in the set .......i now use PCB tungsten drill bits there perfect for those really tiny holes recently bought two sets and so far my big clumsy sausage hands haven't broken any even the 0.1 which is barely as thick as a hair has stood up well to my plates of meat and shaky nerves....there not expensive either ...as said got two sets 0.1-1.0 and 1.0 - 2.0...... all in .1 increments and very very sharp so no pressure needed to drill that hole. 4 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pig of the Week Posted March 16, 2021 Share Posted March 16, 2021 Gentlemen...thanks for the intel, as Matt wisely says "things spiral !"...typically I've actually encountered all of the issues you both mention ( in the last 24 hrs) ! I've got more drill bits on order as we speak ..! 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pig of the Week Posted March 16, 2021 Share Posted March 16, 2021 (edited) 19 minutes ago, M3talpig said: I have had this happen so often that it gets to be a bit depressing after a while....i must have 7 sets of drill bits most have one or two broken in the set .......i now use PCB tungsten drill bits there perfect for those really tiny holes recently bought two sets and so far my big clumsy sausage hands haven't broken any even the 0.1 which is barely as thick as a hair has stood up well to my plates of meat and shaky nerves....there not expensive either ...as said got two sets 0.1-1.0 and 1.0 - 2.0...... all in .1 increments and very very sharp so no pressure needed to drill that hole. Do you by any chance have a link, ebay or whatever, to the tungsten drill bits you use ? ( with due apologies to Matt for crashing into your great build thread ! ) Edited March 16, 2021 by Pig of the Week 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
M3talpig Posted March 16, 2021 Share Posted March 16, 2021 2 hours ago, Pig of the Week said: Do you by any chance have a link, ebay or whatever, to the tungsten drill bits you use ? Hi fellow piggy sure thing....there is plenty of sellers doing them........... https://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=p2380057.m570.l1313&_nkw=pcb+tungsten+drill+bits&_sacat=0 1 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pig of the Week Posted March 16, 2021 Share Posted March 16, 2021 Top man..us pigs gotta stick together..:) What is good is that you can seemingly get a batch of 08 size alone rather than have to buy a load you don't need just for the size you do ! Thanks again 👍 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cerberus Posted March 16, 2021 Author Share Posted March 16, 2021 3 hours ago, Pig of the Week said: with due apologies to Matt for crashing into your great build thread No probs, feel free folks, I don't mind random chit chat in the build log, It's all helpful stuff and makes a welcome change from my Grizzly ramblings to be honest These things are worth consideration as well if you're a bit prone to breaking drill bits, stubby shanked drill bits, these are Tamiya ones, and like a lot of things in model making these days, they live on the expensive side of life, but they are very strong, and very sharp, sharpness is important because as @M3talpig pointed out, the sharper they are the less pressure/force is needed, they will cut from just pretty much holding them, so then there is less chance of breaking them, Matt 9 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pig of the Week Posted March 16, 2021 Share Posted March 16, 2021 Cheers Matt, you're a star...I've got a few variations of the drills on order so should hopefully be sorted for bolt and rivet hole punching for a while ! And now looking forward to the next rivetting instalment of your build here..! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alpha Juliet Posted March 17, 2021 Share Posted March 17, 2021 Lovely build Sir! Following with interest 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cerberus Posted March 19, 2021 Author Share Posted March 19, 2021 On 17/03/2021 at 09:42, Alpha Juliet said: Lovely build Sir! Following with interest Thank you kindly good Sir! Welcome aboard I'm still working on the tracks... Though at least now they have been fitted to the model, at least three times so far, changes, adjustments, a change of plans,...but technically speaking this is new work, just to show that I am still working on this, plodding along collecting pictures for some new posts And when I say plodding... I mean lots of this... And lots of this... Matt 10 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vaoinas Posted March 19, 2021 Share Posted March 19, 2021 That's an epic journey. Following with a great interest. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cerberus Posted March 20, 2021 Author Share Posted March 20, 2021 On 19/03/2021 at 14:04, vaoinas said: That's an epic journey. Well, talking of journeys, the Bovington Grizzly has gone to Vienna now, these old tanks get to travel the world more than we do Some nice close up shots showing just how bad the paint can get when these things are left outside in all weathers, it's not an easy life being a gate guard Matt 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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