Sanding clear plastic advice

[speedy]

Hi folks, I’m building a 1/32 Puma at the mo and the canopy area is a very poor fit. The clear plastic is of the hard brittle type.

Any advice would be welcome, I’m looking at removing 1 or 2mm in thickness. I have a micro mesh kit, but I’m conscious of making a right hash of it and destroying all my work to date.

Edited February 21, 2021 by speedy

[dnl42]

I'm not quite sure I understand what you're trying to do.

 

12 minutes ago, speedy said:

I’m looking at removing 1 or 2mm in thickness.

Are you asking about making the plastic thinner or removing material from the edge? I've never tried to thin a clear part that much as I've only thinned clear plastic to remove scratches. I start with a 1500 pad and then work, pad by pad, until finishing with a 12000 pad. A polish with Mr Hobby compound finishes it off. I've just started using Deluxe Materials Looks Like Glass as a clear coat after painting framing with Mr Color. I've found Mr Color atop Looks Like Glass is not a Good Thing...

 

When I need to remove material from the edge of clear plastic, I prefer Swiss-cut needle files, particularly an equaling file. Depending on the amount, I'll start with 0-, 2-, or 4-cut and then finish with 6-cut. Be very careful and support the part to avoid crazing.  I mostly use needle files for shaping as I can carefully control where material is removed. A 6-cut file leaves plastic smooth and shiny.

 

HTH

-- 

dnl

[Tail-Dragon]

I sand the clear plastic on almost every build, it's nothing to be warry of.  I will get the basic contour with down to a 400 grit, then work up (wet sanding) through 600, 800, 1000, 2000, and higher. Polish with a rag wheel on a Dremel - no higher than a medium speed and keep moving around to avoid melting in (ask me how I know!).  Final step is a coat of Future (or Pledge) painted on with a fine brush (I cut with 10% water to enhance the flow and leveling) . Sometimes it's the only way to transparencies to fit. Just be careful not to try and force a fit, or you'll end up with stress fractures.

 

 

 

 

 

 

[Sabrejet]

@speedy: I'd practice on a spare bit first, but if you have a Micromesh kit, you're on the best track. They do say to alternate 90 degrees between each grade, but sometimes it's difficult and it doesn't seem to make much difference. As a final shine, I usually apply a coat of Mr Color Topcoat. 

 

It will look a mess until you get to about 4000 grade, but you'll notice that each grade will be quieter than the last.

[speedy]

Sorry dnl42 a poorly written question when I was being rushed, but you’ve answered the question, as has the others. Intake of breadth and I’ll give it a go.