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Slave 1 - 1/72


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Thanks chaps

 

So, I managed to get the rest of the skirt painted last night as planned. It was a bit of a marathon job, as it really needs to be done in one extended sitting, since I don't like to leave the masking fluid on the model for too long or it can become hard to remove. The grey bands at the front and rear were masked off, then the first layer of Gunze Neo applied. This was mainly done with a sponge and a tooth pick, although some of the larger patches were done with the brush attached to the lid of the bottle.

 

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Once the masking was dry, I sprayed the pink intermediate paint layer. On my previous S1 build I used Vallejo warm grey for this colour, as it's a pretty close match to the shade used on the studio model, but I prefer to work with lacquers were possible these days, so I mixed up a colour that was close the the Vallejo one from Mr Color russet, medium sea grey, and a touch of the grey green that I'd used for the main base colour.

 

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After the pink had dried, the second layer of masking fluid was applied. This layer is for the pink chips, and it's the trickiest part of painting the skirt, as you need the chips to overlap the (now obscured) previous masking fluid layer without being too extensive. Obviously, I'm trying in general to match the placement of the chips to the studio model, but it's pointless getting too bogged down in replicating every single chip, as the random nature of applying the fluid by sponge makes that impossible.

 

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Then it was time for the main rust red layer. This time I used the same Vallejo Cavalry Brown I'd used on my old S1, but later went over it with various mixes made from combinations of Tamiya Hull Red, Medium Sea Grey, Sky Grey and Flesh to add a more patchy, faded look to the red.

 

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    Once all the masking is rubbed off, I'll add some pin washes to the panel lines, refine some of the chipping by brush, then start on the weathering.

 

    Andy:cat:

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Cool !! Looking good Andy.  Can't wait to see the chips on the hull with rubbed off masking agent. Always the fun bit ! 🙂 

Edited by Portaler
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I think the thing I notice the most is that you're weathering all this stuff so it's dirty, but even the dirt looks incredibly clean and precise. You can see everything's just where it's supposed to be. I really like it,

 

Will

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Thanks everyone.

 

So, the moment of truth when the masking fluid is rubber off. However carefully you apply it, you never really know what you're going to get when you use this method, so I'm always a little nervous when removing the masking. As far as it goes, I think it turned out reasonably well, and fairly close to my old build. There were a couple of clunky areas where the masking left a rather unnatural looking edge, and I slightly underdid the amount chips on the pink layer. Both of those can easily be rectified with some additional brush painted chipping though.

 

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I've now also gone on and applied some of the weathering in the form of an enamel panel line wash, and some dirt and grime built up around the raised panels with oils and acrylics. I've added some aditional pink chipping where needed, but I still need to refine the chips on the base grey/green areas. The whole thing's also had a matt clear coat.

 

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     Andy:cat:

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On 02/04/2021 at 20:33, TristanR said:

sweet baby grogu! That's a nice salve one hoof right there.

Do you think it came out better than your previous model?

 

Thanks Tristan,

 

Yeah, I'd say this one is generally better than my old one. There's not a huge amount in it, the chipping is pretty much the same, allowing for the semi-random nature of the technique. I did pay more attention to getting the pink areas more accurate on this one, my old one doesn't have quite enough pink chips in certain areas. Also, the red is a little better on the new one, and a closer match to the box car red on the studio model. I used the same paint on both, but I think some of the filters and weathering I added to the old one gave it a slightly purplish tint. It's only slight, but I think you can see it on the photos below.

 

Some of the weathering's a little more defined on the new one too. Things like the angled panel to the left of the rear grey stripe which is darker than the surrounding panels. That's a feature on the studio model which I replicated here, while I missed it on my old one. I also missed the black panel on the rear grey stripe on the old one too.

 

2014 Slave 1 skirt on left  -  2021 Slave 1 skirt on right

 

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              And just for fun, here's the old 2014 body on the new 2021 skirt

 

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       Andy:cat:

 

 

 

 

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Cool. Nice comparison. I think you mentioned earlier that the black came out a bit glossy. Will you be matting that down with some greyish "space dust" on the ramp where people walk and the tusks ? :-)

 

Looking great !!!

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On 05/04/2021 at 08:32, Portaler said:

I think you mentioned earlier that the black came out a bit glossy. Will you be matting that down with some greyish "space dust" on the ramp where people walk and the tusks ? :-)

 

Yes, the black panels will get some further toning down. Once everything's painted I'll go over the whole model with some general weathering to tie everything together.

 

So, I've finally made a start on the upper hull, the first stage of which was to spray some white along the spine and down the sides of the cockpit. I then sponged on some masking along the spine for the handful of white chips that appear on that section.

 

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The cockpit sides have white pinstripes running along the edge of the canopy. The stripes are supplied as decals with the Boba boxing of S1, which I used on my old build. The Jango boxing I'm working with here also has the decals, but in yellow, so instead I've just run strips of Tam tape over the white paint to mask the stripes.

 

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With the masking taken care of, I added the main base coat of Gunze grey green, then followed that with some shading/highlighting by adding various combinations of white, deck tan, grey, and interior green into the base colour. 

(apologies for the random switch to a black background, but the finish didn't show up well against white)

 

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Most of the panel work was done freehand, although in a few areas I masked off certain panels to give them more definition. A lot of this will wind up getting covered by the darker green chips, but there should be enough variation to stop the base layer from looking too flat and monotone.

 

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Lots of masking has to happen now before the main chipping layer is sprayed.

 

Andy:cat:

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Your Builds are a masterclass in Airbrush and weathering work. You show stunning results and I almost always bookmark your threads for later reference. This one is no difference. Thank you for the detailed pictures and explanation!

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Thanks all,

 

On 12/04/2021 at 07:00, Andrzej Hołowacz said:

You can show up to strengthen the two halves of the hull have posted earlier?

 

It's nothing fancy, just a thick layer of epoxy adhesive along the underside of the seam. It does a good job of adding some strength and structure to the joint though.

 

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Speaking of epoxy, the rivnuts that will be used to mount the model have been glued into place with the same adhesive.

 

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On 12/04/2021 at 07:16, Portaler said:

Such a pity to cover this up with other colours

 

It is a bit, but some of it is still visible now the main chipping layer is on.

 

That process started with the masking, which took the best part of a day to build up. I'd got various photos of the studio model open on a laptop in front of me while adding the masking fluid and, while I can't match everything chip for chip, I think I've replicated the basic areas of chipping fairly closely.

 

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That was followed by the main chipping colour, which was a mix of Gunze RLM 02 and Tamiya XF-71 Cockpit Green. As with the base layer of grey green, I then added various combinations of white, grey and different green tones to the main mix to add some variation to the chipping layer.

 

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With the masking removed it was looking fairly resectable, although I'll probably go around with a fine brush and add in some smaller chips and remove the odd blobby edge here and there. The overall tone here is a shade or two darker, in both the main and chipping layers, than my old one, and as such probably a little closer to the studio model. However, I may go over the chipping layer with a thin misting of the base colour to knock back the contrast just a little.

 

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       Andy:cat:

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Thanks chaps

 

So, as mentioned above, I've added a few brush painted chips here and there where the masking fluid had left an edge that looked too rounded and artificial. That was done with both the pale base colour and the darker chipping colour, albeit mixed from Vallejo rather than the Tamiya and Gunze paints I used for the main painting. The shades I mixed weren't an exact match, but close enough that you don't really see any difference amongst the visual noise of the chipping. I've also added the black areas that are present on the studio model. I don't know what these were originally meant to represent (paint chips?, scorch marks?), but it you look closely at the studio model you can see that they're simply brush-painted marks. For this build I copied the shape and position of the marks as accurately as possible, but I then gave them a light over-spray with the same colour in the airbrush just to slightly soften the effect. Whilst I'd got the paint in the airbrush I also added the distintive row of blaster marks on the starboard side of the fuselage, but I'll darken and refine those marks more later. For now, the airbrush spots are more placeholders to mark out the position of the blast marks.

 

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So, this is how it's looking right now, sitting on the skirt. The next stage will be to mask off the upper hull panels and the wing cowls ready for the dark green.

 

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           Andy:cat:

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