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Most of the underside weathering is done now. I'll probably add a little more once it's attached to the skirt to tie everything together. This is mainly acrylic glazes and a bit of airbrush shading, and the engine area has been buffed up with graphite powder to give it some metallic sheen. That last step was somewhat pointless since there are cover panels that obscure most of the engine detail once they're attached. They still need to be added, along with the scanner dish and the engine nozzle.

 

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The cover panels have been weathered in the same way as the rest of the underside, and the decal for the row of red squares has been added to the rear panel. That's the only included decal I've needed to use which is fortunate as Finemolds decals don't age well. They take a lot of soaking in hot water before they'll come away from the backing paper, and are very fragile with a tendency to crack and break up of you're not careful.

 

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The wings have had some basic weathering applied, along with the yellow paint chips that are a prominent feature of the studio model. These are included on the decal sheet but, due to the previously mentioned poor quality of the decals and the rather blobby printing, it's better to hand paint them.

 

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     Most of these components can start to be assembled now, ready to be mounted on the skirt, which is the bit I'll be dealing with next.

 

     Andy:cat:

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Nice. Yeah I've seen a lot of modellers choose to paint the decals (especially weathering chipping decals). So the right way to go I think. More natural looking too.

Edited by Portaler
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Thanks everyone,

 

So, with the underside pretty much finished, I've started work on the skirt. This is a single moulding, so not much prep work, but before I started painting I needed to sort out the mounting points that will be used to display the model. The customer I'm building it for is intending to have the ship wall mounted as part of a display along with other SW ships. It will be attached to the backboard that will form the display base by a couple of 4mm bolts that will protrude from the backboard and screw into the base of the ship. As such, I need to add a couple of threaded inserts to the model to take the bolts. For this I'm using two rivnuts that will be mounted into holes drilled through the floor panel on the skirt where the engine nozzles attach.

 

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After drilling a couple of 7mm holes, the rivnuts simply slot into place. Once the skirt is painted, these will be permanently secured with epoxy adhesive where they extend into the hull interior.

 

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With that sorted out I got the first coat of paint on the skirt. This was mixed from Gunze 128 Grey Green mixed about 50/50 with white. This will form the basic chipping colour layer that will be revealed beneath the following pink and red coats.

 

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This is the same colour that will be used for the base coat on the upper hull, so that's the next assembly to be prepped for paint. As @TristanR had mentioned earlier, the hull of the Jango version of S1 has slight different surface detail on the starboard side than the Boba version. In fact there are a few minor differences spread across the hull, many of these stemming from the fact that the original studio model was unavailable at the time the digital model was created for Attack of the Clones, although a couple were down to specific story requirements. For the most part I'm building this straight from the box, as the differences don't amount to much, and in some cases could arguably still be present when Boba owned S1. I'll run through the principle differences below.

 

The Boba studio model S1 (BS1) has flush panels at the top of the wing cowlings, whereas the Jango digital model S1 (JS1) has these panels inset as if they retracted inwards. I don't know why they made that change for JS1, as it didn't serve any purpose in the film that I can remember, but I think this is one example where you could reasonably claim that the feature could still be present on BS1, i.e. they could still be retracted on BS1, but you didn't see it on screen. It also adds a bit of extra surface detail to the model, which is no bad thing.

 

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Another difference is the large cowl at the front/top of the cockpit. On BS1 the cowl is smooth with just a couple of raised panels, while on JS1 the cowl features rows of inset stripes. This change was probably nothing more than the digital artist wanting to add a little more detail and texture to an otherwise blank area, which it does. For that reason, as with the wing cowl panels above, I'll be leaving this as is.

 

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The fuselage spine also has a minor change between the two models, that being a small panel just aft of the cockpit. On BS1 the panel is smooth, while on JS1 there are a row of holes along the panel, supposedly representing scanners of some type. Again, this seems like a 'lets add some extra detail' kind of change and, as with the wing cowls, you could argue that the holes are covered by a retractable panel and would still be there on BS1 so, again, I'll be keeping this detail.

 

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Finally we have the fuselarge side detail panels. On the port side of BS1 there's an angular panel that's provided as a separate part in the kit.

 

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That same panel is present on JS1 with the main difference being an opening on the top edge of the panel where a laser cannon is fitted. The kit replicates that opening on the panel, so I've simply plated it over with styrene which, while not matching BS1 exactly, will be barely noticeable under the chipping and weathering.

 

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Over on the starboard side, BS1 features a different panel arrangement, with three smaller detail panels rather than the single larger one on the port side.

 

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On the starboard side of JS1, the digital model simply features a mirrored version of the port panel, and that's what is included in this kit. As such I've decided to stick with the included parts, but I've also added an aproximation of the separate lower panel from BS1. I've had to adjust the dimensions and placement slightly to allow for the larger main panel, but this way there is at least some difference from one side to the other.

 

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In some ways I guess you could say this build will represent a hybrid between JS1 and BS1 which theoretically would have existed at some point. It's also worth pointing out that quite a few details on Slave 1 have now changed again with the current digital model created for the Mandalorian, and may well change once more when we see the ship in BoBF. If only we could somehow convince Revell to rebox this kit with the parts for both versions, and get Fimemolds to add an extra sprue for any additional details used on the current incarnation.

 

Andy:cat:

 

 

 

 

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Mate, You really are a font of all knowledge on this beastie. And I for one am enjoying reading the details. I probably won't remember reading them though!

Still it's all here on BM. I'd just like another example of the Airfix/MPC kit (Even scrap) to use on another Sci Fi project. Okay, yes, Kreiger. 

I'll have to keep haunting the bay! :laugh:

 

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I'm curious as to how you get the chipping fluid out of all the nooks and crannies when weathering deep pieces like the back plate? I've tried latex gloves and the fact that it sticks to itself, but they both work better on flatter surfaces.

 

Will

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Thanks chaps,

 

22 hours ago, Pete in Lincs said:

I'd just like another example of the Airfix/MPC kit (Even scrap) to use on another Sci Fi project. Okay, yes, Kreiger. 

 

Well, Round 2 have announced a Star Wars licence, and a re-release of some older kits, although they've not said which ones. I suspect it'll be the AMT prequel stuff from the '90's, but they may dig out the old MPC molds if they still exist.

 

22 hours ago, Will Vale said:

I'm curious as to how you get the chipping fluid out of all the nooks and crannies when weathering deep pieces like the back plate? I've tried latex gloves and the fact that it sticks to itself, but they both work better on flatter surfaces.

 

Generally fingers for the more exposed areas, and these manky, worn-down bristle brushes for the rest. They do a pretty good job of removing the remnants of latex, although there's probably a few crumbs left in the corners.

 

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Andy:cat:

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1 hour ago, Andy Moore said:

Thanks chaps,

 

Well, Round 2 have announced a Star Wars licence, and a re-release of some older kits, although they've not said which ones. I suspect it'll be the AMT prequel stuff from the '90's, but they may dig out the old MPC molds if they still exist.

 

Andy:cat:

 

Great news indeed Andy about Round 2!  I hope they release some of the kits that go for stupid pricing on Ebay.

 

Also Revell announced a "New Tool" Razorcrest in 1/72 scale for later this year!!  So excited for that one!!!!

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Great work so far on your S1., don't forget that Jango’s original Slave one was crashed during the clone wars when Boba was still young and hanging out with Hondo Ohnaka and others. In episode 2:22 of The Clone Wars series “lethal track-down”. Ahsoka Tano cut the Starboard stabilator off. S1 crashed and I believe Hondo eventually rebuilt S1 to the version we see Boba using in the “ESB”. At some point after that Boba reclaimed S1 from Hondo. 

Edited by Corsairfoxfouruncle
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10 hours ago, Corsairfoxfouruncle said:

Great work so far on your S1., don't forget that Jango’s original Slave one was crashed during the clone wars when Boba was still young and hanging out with Hondo Ohnaka and others. In episode 2:22 of The Clone Wars series “lethal track-down”. Ahsoka Tano cut the Starboard stabilator off. S1 crashed and I believe either Hondo eventually rebuilt S1 to the version we see Boba using in the “ESB”. At some point after that Boba reclaimed S1 from Hondo. 

That's interesting. Maybe Andy will add some damage/repair work on the Starboard stabiliser. That would be kind of a cool detail.

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19 hours ago, Corsairfoxfouruncle said:

Great work so far on your S1., don't forget that Jango’s original Slave one was crashed during the clone wars when Boba was still young and hanging out with Hondo Ohnaka and others. In episode 2:22 of The Clone Wars series “lethal track-down”. Ahsoka Tano cut the Starboard stabilator off. S1 crashed and I believe Hondo eventually rebuilt S1 to the version we see Boba using in the “ESB”. At some point after that Boba reclaimed S1 from Hondo. 

 

Yes, as you say Dennis, Ahsoka lops off the starboard wing. Dave Filoni was very careful to frame the crash off-screen though so we never see the extent of the damage. The ship turns up again later in the series wearing a slightly less worn version of the the Boba colours and Hondo's emblem painted on the spine.

 

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So, as I mentioned earlier, the lightened Gunze grey green I used for the skirt base coat will also form the main base layer on the upper hull. That, and the slightly darker mint green, form the bulk of the finsh on the hull, but there are actually five main colours in total; four chipping colours, and the dark green for the replacement spine panels.

 

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The lightest shade is a very pale grey/off-white that only shows up as chips in small areas on the upper hull. There are also two pin stripes in the same colour that run along the edges of the canopy, so the first job for the hull will be to lay down a coat of off-white along the spine and cockpit sides ready for the stripes and chips to be masked off, then that will be followed by an overall coat of the pale grey green.

 

Andy:cat:

 

 

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Hi Andy.. Wasn't trying to say anything negative about your build. I was just thinking out loud as to the possible reason(s) for the visual differences between the Jango and Boba versions of S1. 

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1 hour ago, Corsairfoxfouruncle said:

Hi Andy.. Wasn't trying to say anything negative about your build. I was just thinking out loud as to the possible reason(s) for the visual differences between the Jango and Boba versions of S1. 

 

Hi Dennis, no offence taken mate. I'd actually completely forgotten about Slave 1's appearence in Clone Wars. It's given me a good excuse to go back and re-watch those episodes again.

 

Andy:cat:

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Andy, where do you find your sponges? I know that’s a silly question but that picture of the sponge above has great texture. I have trouble finding a sponge that isn’t too dense. Sea sponges are just the opposite. Thanks for your amazing work.

 

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15 hours ago, evansdad said:

Andy, where do you find your sponges? I know that’s a silly question but that picture of the sponge above has great texture. I have trouble finding a sponge that isn’t too dense. Sea sponges are just the opposite. Thanks for your amazing work.

 

I know what you mean about getting the right texture on the sponge. A lot of people recommend makeup sponges, but I find them to be too dense. I normally use upholstery foam, which you can get in quite large blocks from ebay. You probably want the medium or soft type, as the firm stuff is generally too dense again.

If you want an even cheaper solution, the sponge on the back of pound shop scouring pads works well.

 

Andy:cat:

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I've not made a start on the main paint job on the hull and skirt yet as, with all the multiple paint layers and chipping involved, I need to have have a few full days clear to dedicate to it. Hopefully, I should get started on that next week but, in the mean time, I've got the wings and underside finished off and ready to be installed on the skirt once it's painted.

 

The wings have had a little more weathering, mainly with oils and acrylics, but there's also some dry pigments brushed on here and there. They were then slotted onto the support struts ready to be attached to the mounting plates on the base.

 

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I've more or less followed the same weathering patterns I used on my original S1 build, and they match up fairly closely except for a little more panel variation and contrast on the new ones. In both cases, they're more heavily weathered than the original studio model, which had actually got quite light weathering apart from the basic paint chipping. That was built for filming though, and not close-up scrutiny, and I feel a display model needs a little more definition and contrast. hence the stronger weathering.

 

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The wing support plates were attached to the base, then the wings and struts were glued in place on the plates. The design of the assembly allows the wings to be rotated between the landing and flight postions.

 

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     The base has been finished off with the scanner dish and the wide engine nozzle. The only bits left to add are the two round nozzles which will be attached at the end after the base is glued to the skirt.

 

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              Andy:cat:

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This is a masterclass on weathering, and building these Star Wars kits. Always admired your builds, but this one is particularly good. I had also never heard of rivnuts before - very useful.

 

regards

 

anthony

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Andy

 

That is simply stunning. My mind is so blown that I'm still trying to find it.

 

It has both intimidated me into looking away from my own kit but then inspired me to dig it back out again and start working up my own build. It is like Schrodinger's hobby experience. 🤪

 

Any chance you can start running classes for us - not on how you achieve the effects that you have, but how you make it look so 'easy'? 😉

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Love it Andy. The heavier weathering looks great. One of the best things about the "lived in" Star Wars universe I reckon !

 

And I'm sure she's seen more than a bit of action !

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  • 2 weeks later...

Finally found some time to get a little more done on S1. I'm starting the main upper body painting with the skirt, and the first step with that are the dark grey stripes at the front and back. I masked off the edges of the stripes with Tam tape, then blocked off the surrounding area with paper. The masking fluid was sponged on and that was followed by a base grey coat mixed from Tam rubber black and ocean grey. I added a little more rubber black into the mix and sprayed some shading, then added some sky grey and sprayed some mottled highlights.

 

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With the tape removed and the masking fluid rubbed away I was left with the basic chipping pattern. As always with masking fluid, some of the chipping comes out looking a little blobby, so the effect with be enhanced later on with some smaller brush painted chips.

 

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Both the front and rear stripes have some panels that are picked out in black. I masked those areas and gave them a coat of straight rubber black. For some reason the usually very matt Tam paint dried with a slightly glossy finish. Don't know why, but it doesn't really matter, as the whole thing will get a matt coat after the weathering's done.

 

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     With the stripes done, I'll be starting on the main red paint job on the skirt next. I'll hopefully get that done tonight.

 

     Andy:cat:

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