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1:72 Sword Hawker Siddeley Harrier T.4


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2 hours ago, Navy Bird said:

Stash here - any recommendations?

Well that little Airfix Gnat is quite cool. Also I see you have an A-6 and an A-7. Just saying.............

 

Terry

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2 hours ago, Beard said:

May I be so bold as to suggest a Buffalo?

 

Not a bad choice, as long as it's Finnish or Dutch. What do you think? I kinda like the Dutch version.

 

1 hour ago, Teuchter said:

The Arado 240 looks cool, I remember it from the William Green books!

 

I have one of those? Huh - didn't recall that. I wonder where it is. Is the kit any good? Looks like it might need some PE for all those aerials up front.

 

24 minutes ago, Terry1954 said:

Well that little Airfix Gnat is quite cool. Also I see you have an A-6 and an A-7. Just saying.............

 

You're right about the Gnat being little! Looks like a have some aftermarket for it as well. Not crazy about that scheme though. Maybe I'll look around for some different markings. It's so small it could be a weekend build.

 

The Intruder and Corsair II are another couple I forgot all about. Both Fujimi, and both very nice kits. And Light Gull Gray on the A-7, none of that ugly low-viz gray stuff.

 

*****

 

On the other hand, I do have the "anything but styrene" Group Build starting in 10 days. I should probably pay attention to that first. My plan there is the <gulp> Anigrand XF8U-3 Crusader III. I always liked the looks of that one, but the Anigrand kit leaves a LOT to be desired. It's well known that it's too short, but it goes beyond that. I've made a lot of measurements, and it's just underscale all over. I'll post those measurements when I start the build. Plus, good old Anigrand didn't bother to cast in the anhedral on the wings and forgot to put the main gear doors and ventral fins in my box. They also pay no attention to their support email box - I've sent several emails offering to buy the missing parts. They ignore me. I will never buy from them again.

 

Cheers,

Bill

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43 minutes ago, Beard said:

Then that's the one I'd like to see you do.

 

Hmm...Special Hobby - remember "the mother of all gaps?"

 

100_5394

 

At least I have experience!

 

Cheers,

Bill

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Don't go bananas starting on other models and forget about the Harrier. I am sure there are subassemblies on the T.4 that you can do while the paint dries.

 

Nils

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I remember the cracking job you did on TSR2.... so i'd love to see you give the AVRO CF-105 the Navy Bird treatment.

 

But please, for the love of God- No More Model Master (not for the exterior anyway)!!

 

-d-

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6 hours ago, Navy Bird said:

 

Hmm...Special Hobby - remember "the mother of all gaps?"

 

100_5394

 

At least I have experience!

 

Cheers,

Bill

What is this kit, so I can make sure to never, ever get crazy ideas about building it?  That must have been awful to discover.

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43 minutes ago, Beggsy said:

What is this kit, so I can make sure to never, ever get crazy ideas about building it?  That must have been awful to discover.

It’s the Special Hobby Brewster Buffalo, a real arm wrestle to build.

 

AW

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20 hours ago, ruudster said:

You will not catch me trying to persuade you to not build a Dutch model...  KNIL Buffalo!

 

I can assure you that the very next Brewster Buffalo that I build will be the KNIL version. Or maybe the Finnish...    :)

 

19 hours ago, Vingtor said:

Don't go bananas starting on other models and forget about the Harrier. I am sure there are subassemblies on the T.4 that you can do while the paint dries.

 

The paint is indeed curing, as the smell is very much reduced today. I suspect another day and it will be OK to mask.

 

16 hours ago, Robin-42 said:

Build the Arrow, that final Hobbycraft version is worth ridiculous money now. You need to destroy it’s value by building it.😁

 

15 hours ago, David H said:

I remember the cracking job you did on TSR2.... so i'd love to see you give the AVRO CF-105 the Navy Bird treatment.

But please, for the love of God- No More Model Master (not for the exterior anyway)!!

 

I bought the ejection seats and upgraded intakes from Iroquois (MasterCasters) and have their "detailing set" on backorder. I've been waiting for that even though I have no idea what's included. Probably just the ejection seats and upgraded intakes...     :)

 

Roger that, no more Model Master.

 

14 hours ago, Beggsy said:

What is this kit, so I can make sure to never, ever get crazy ideas about building it?  That must have been awful to discover.

 

As @Andwil noted, it's the Special Hobby kit. At first I thought the cowling was too large in diameter, but when I dry fit the cockpit I realised that the internals fit fine, and the cowling would be OK, as long as there was that gap. It was pretty easy to fix with some sheet styrene spacers:

 

100_5396

 

*****

 

Here, you can help me watch paint dry:

 

IMG_5734

 

Cheers,

Bill

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13 hours ago, TheyJammedKenny! said:

"if only everything were made like SuperScale!!!" 

 

SuperScale - now there's a blast from the past. I still have some of their assorted stripes that I use for ordnance. Getting pretty old now though (the decals and the modeller!)    :)

 

6 hours ago, Robert said:

Tamiya white ?

 

Model Master RLM21. It's a very pure, semi-gloss white. <opinion on> But like all Testors paint, it stinks. <opinion off>.

 

*****

 

After all that, it's dry! Now to figure out how to mask the red and blue - especially the demarcation inside the intakes. Oh joy.

 

Cheers,

Bill

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11 minutes ago, Navy Bird said:

 

 

 

After all that, it's dry! Now to figure out how to mask the red and blue - especially the demarcation inside the intakes. Oh joy.

 

Cheers,

Bill

Very narrow strips of Tamiya tape and backfilled with makeup applicator sponge to keep out overspray??

 

Just an idea....

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2 hours ago, David H said:

Very narrow strips of Tamiya tape and backfilled with makeup applicator sponge to keep out overspray??

 

That is the plan. Unfortunately, my fingers are significant larger than the intake opening. Remind me again why I always build in 1:72 scale?     :drunk:

 

Cheers,

Bill

 

PS. Wifey will never miss the makeup sponge. Heck, she never misses all the $20 bills I keep taking out of her wallet.

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Step 2: BS381C/105 Oxford Blue (using MRP brand)

 

IMG_5736

 

IMG_5737

 

Good thing I like masking. Geez.    :doh:

 

Now that I think about it, I probably should have done the red first. Oh well, if at first you don't succeed - so much for skydiving.

 

Cheers,

Bill

 

 

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I'm fascinated to see how this comes along - I've recently bought a pair of the Sword T.2/T.4s in 1/72 and was hoping to do one in this VAAC scheme. Can't get the decals anywhere so am hoping for a re-issue by the time I get round to building! Yours is looking very tidy. I'm coming to the end of the Sword T.10 version and can only dream of stuff like 'good fit'! Despie my efforts, it looks like they build into great-looking models with a good 'sit'.

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Step 3a: Signal Red BS381C/537 (MRP brand) on the tail:

 

IMG_5738

 

The demarcation line is better than it looks. There seems to be a reinforcement plate near the tailplane pivot and the line has to go over those lumps and bumps. I didn't do the other red areas yet as I wanted to break it into three jobs. Next will be the wingtips - saving those intake buggers till last!

 

Question: I know the gear legs are Light Admiralty Grey, and most of my photos show the wheel hubs and gear bays the same colour. Although, some photos show white wheel hubs. I'll plan on using the grey unless someone can talk me out of it.

 

Cheers,

Bill

 

PS. Devilishly fiddly masking. I can't wait to do the intakes...      :wall:

PPS. Just noticed that the interior of the auxiliary intakes are white. This will make for some interesting painting in the areas where the blue and red pass over. I also noticed that most photos show that the middle auxiliary door on the port side still has a remnant of a roundel (this being the normal spot for camo schemes). Replacement door I suppose? However, I have two photos that show that door painted blue - no roundel. Hurrah! I don't have to cut up a decal and stick it on the silly little door...

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