Pacific Coast Models Hawker Hurricane Mk. I fabric wing

[spitfire]

Just had a look, and I have used Revell anthracite for Japanese cowls and anti glare panels, plus Xtracolor Panzer Grey for AMT12 and Colourcoats AMT 6  I can see I will have to do some test pieces.

 

Cheers

 

Dennis

[Biggles87]

My next suggestion was going to be Revell anthracite! 

[mick]

great work

[spitfire]

1 hour ago, Biggles87 said:

My next suggestion was going to be Revell anthracite! 

Great minds think alike, and there is a hint of blue in it as per RAF Night.

1 hour ago, mick said:

great work

Thank you Mick, all comments appreciated

 

Cheers

 

Dennis

[spitfire]

It's been quite a while, but I haven't given up yet, the house has been decorated throughout and the patio relaid, the Honda (1976 CB750) has new tyres and has been serviced and other such projects so I can now concentrate on this one.

Masking

Airbrushed Xtracolor RAF Night (X12).

And then Revell 9 Anthracite over the Night, this worked better than I thought and takes away the starkness of the black, can't wait to see it with the matt varnish on.

Masking again for the top colours

And all ready to go.

Couldn't resist this book, it has some great information and photos.

 

Cheers

 

Dennis

 

[RichieW]

Good to see this back underway, always a pleasure to see the great unsung hero getting treated so well.

 

Richie

[spitfire]

15 hours ago, RichieW said:

Good to see this back underway, always a pleasure to see the great unsung hero getting treated so well.

 

Richie

Thank you Richie, next up is the upper colours where I hope to try and imitate the faded fabric look of the wings.

 

Cheers

 

Dennis

[spitfire]

Some more progress and some backward steps.

Airbrushed the Dark earth using my normal "handle" type affair, using Xtracolor X2.

The aim is to duplicate the fading of the fabric areas of the wings shown here.

And on "my" Hurricane.

Then on with the camouflage paint masks.

Then the plan was to fit the paint masks, tape off the fabric areas and airbrush a lightened Dark Green, but I soon realised that this would make it rather difficult to fade the dark earth accurately, so a new plan is called for, I think I will start by removing the masks and doing an all over fading of the dark earth for a start.

 

Cheers

 

Dennis

[spitfire]

So armed with my airbrush and a 50:50 mix of Dark Earth and white I set about fading the fabric wings, noting that the leading edge was metal, however I am not 100% convinced by the look, I don't know wether to just go over it with neat dark earth, go over it again with the lightened mix to obliterate the "stripes".

Or leave it as is, mask off the dark earth and airbrush the Dark green and fade that the same way.

 

Any ideas out there, maybe @Troy Smith the Hurricane man

 

 

Cheers

 

Dennis

[Troy Smith]

Just now, spitfire said:

noting that the leading edge was metal,

But fabric covered.

1 minute ago, spitfire said:

Oor leave it as is, mask off the dark earth and airbrush the Dark green and fade that the same way.

I was going to suggest trying a post paint fade perhaps with some very heavily thinned pale grey.   mostly thinners just to fade it subtly.  

 

You could even try this at the end, and use slighly tinted varnish, and use a dead matt in the fabric with a hint of pale grey, , and plain eggshell on the metal?  

 

This looks good though

 

HTH

 

[spitfire]

Thank you for that Troy, this has been slowing me down for a while trying to sort out the right way to go forward.

I did read on a diagram that "although the leading edges were metal skinned the fabric covering tended to obscure the rivets" but thought that was refering to where the fabric met the leading edge metal skin, it did not occur to me that they would fabric cover the whole metal leading edge of the wing. But you live and learn.

I think that I will fade the wing leading edge to match and than carry on with the camouflage masks and get the green airbrushed and faded, the light grey misting sounds good as well, I have done the same in the past on AFV's to blend the finish in.

 

Cheers

 

Dennis

[Biggles87]

It may be just the photos but the contrast looks a little stark to me. I usually go for the post shading/fading too, especially on fabric covered control surfaces.

John

[spitfire]

3 hours ago, Biggles87 said:

It may be just the photos but the contrast looks a little stark to me. I usually go for the post shading/fading too, especially on fabric covered control surfaces.

John

Hi John, this is my big worry that it will be too stark, but the photos of my subject and other Hurricanes do show a huge difference between the fabric and metal surfaces, replicating that may make it look all wrong but I'll give it a go, if not plan B is a straight Dark Green and Dark Earth finish with little if any fading.

 

Cheers

 

Dennis

[Troy Smith]

19 hours ago, spitfire said:

I did read on a diagram that "although the leading edges were metal skinned the fabric covering tended to obscure the rivets" but thought that was refering to where the fabric met the leading edge metal skin, it did not occur to me that they would fabric cover the whole metal leading edge of the wing.

"Royal Air Force Training Command, 1939-1940. Trainee airframe fitters are taught repair procedures on Hawker Hurricane instructional airframe, 1359M, in a hangar at No. 2 School of Technical Training, Cosford, Shropshire. The Hurricane (formerly L1995) flew with No. 111 Squadron RAF before crashing during a forced landing in January 1939."

 

Note the leading metal with no fabric 

 

Prime Portal of L1592, 

from

http://primeportal.net/hangar/mark_hayward/hurricane_mk1_l1592/

 you need to enlarge,  as it's not obvious, but you can see the fabric covering,  and, if you look at the landing light,  middle screw, running diagonally left and back,  through the right spent shell slot,  is the join between the fabric sheets, which were 4 feet wide linen.  These are shown on the Bentley drawings.   

 

you need to enlarge,  as it's not obvious, but you can see the fabric covering,  and, if you look at the landing light,  middle screw, running diagonally left and back,  through the right spent shell slot,  is the join between the fabric sheets, which were 4 feet wide linen.  These are shown on the Bentley drawings, just visible on this sample image

 

colour image

 

Just visible behind the gun ports, is the pinking of the fabric, which is serrated edge to stop fraying 

"Pinking shears have notched blades and are used to cut a zigzag edge on a piece of cloth to prevent it from fraying. The term comes from a sense of the verb to pink that originally meant to cut holes and slits in fabric or leather for decorative purposes, in order to show the layer underneath."

see pic here

http://www.hawker-restorations-ltd.co.uk/_images/_completed/g-hury/69.JPG

 

see here for more discussion

https://www.britmodeller.com/forums/index.php?/topic/234958668-classic-airframes-hurricane-mk-1-fabric-wing/

 

HTH

 

[spitfire]

Thank you for that Troy, that information will straight into my Hurricane file, I did find that first photo once you mentioned it and it does make some kind of sense.

 

Cheers

 

Dennis

[spitfire]

Finally got back to this, paint masks re applied and the Dark Green (Xtracolor X1) applied, this was tricky as with my cataract fixed I now need to wear glasses for close up work and my vision is not as good as before the operation and my glasses steam up as I am wearing a mask. But I persevered and it went on well.

So I put it up on the shelf between two books to dry while I cleaned my airbrush.

I was then disturbed by a crash behind me and looked over my shoulder to see my Hurricane sitting on the floor, luckily the damage was minimal and the paint job intact, the temporary handle that I was using must have collapsed causing the model to fall, I was lucky considering the minor damage inflicted.

This is where it fell from.

So some CA and a bit of a touch up job will be required then I can get on with fading the Dark Green on the wing fabric areas.

 

Cheers

 

Dennis

[mark.au]

3 hours ago, spitfire said:

I was then disturbed by a crash behind me and looked over my shoulder to see my Hurricane sitting on the floor,

Hate it when that happens!  Glad the damage is slight, looking good otherwise.

[spitfire]

On 11/25/2021 at 10:44 PM, mark.au said:

Hate it when that happens!  Glad the damage is slight, looking good otherwise.

Yes I was very lucky, and for a change I was motivated to get right on it, re attached, filled and masked.

And repainted.

Faded the Dark Green and removed the masks over the Dark Earth, looks good to me But

Looks like the masks have pulled off the faded paint on this side, so off we go again, masked up and ready to go with the Dark Earth again.

Will fade it tomorrow.

 

Cheers

 

Dennis

[spitfire]

And finally finished the paint work I think from the real photos that the effect was much more drastic than I have portrayed it but I am happy with the result.

I will leave it a couple of days and then move on to the markings, as usual I have planned to use masks for this operation but may use decals as it will be quicker and I want to sign this one off as finished..

 

Cheers

 

Dennis

[Biggles87]

Good save on the tailplane.

 

John

[spitfire]

3 hours ago, Biggles87 said:

Good save on the tailplane.

 

John

Thank you John, I was definately very lucky there, it could have been a lot worse, I was expecting to see split seams when I took the masking off the undersides.

 

Cheers

 

Dennis

[spitfire]

I am happy with the paint now so the next step is the markings, I did consider using the kit decals but in the end decided to go my usual route and paint them, I have the Montex Mask set for my subject so I set about it.

The fist step was to finalise the postions where the masks would go, so I cut out some roundel shapes in Tamiya tape with my P cutter and positioned them as per the kit marking diagram, I then used the kit decals to make sure that the codes would fit the fuselage with the roundel in place.

Then I used some Tamiya tape to mark out the placement of the masks.

Then detacked the masks by sticking them on my hand, notice the Tamiya tape used to keep the mask in shape, the masks were marked with an X to help with later alignment..

The "dummy" roundels were removed and the masks put in place to check that I had the alignment right.

Masks in place

And as I have been known to slip with the airbrush more masking in place.

The red centre mask section was then removed and the red airbrushed using Sovereign Colourcoats ACRN22 RAF/FAARed (Matt)

Next up will be replacing the red mask, removing the blue section and airbrush the blue, Christmas preparations allowing that is.

 

Cheers

 

Dennis

[Biggles87]

Progressing well with the markings.

By the time get to this stage ( anything from 3-6 months ) I just want to get it finished and don't have the patience for all the masking.

 

John

[spitfire]

39 minutes ago, Biggles87 said:

Progressing well with the markings.

By the time get to this stage ( anything from 3-6 months ) I just want to get it finished and don't have the patience for all the masking.

 

John

Thank you John I was nearly at the decal stage just to get it done, I actually put three roundels on but was not impressed hence the masks. Luckily my PCM Spitfire IX is keeping me accupied though no doubt that will start to frustrate me when I get to attach the wings to the fuselage, it seems to be the part of these kits that goes wrong. But it keeps me off the streets.

 

Cheers

 

Dennis

[spitfire]

Red centre masks replace and blue removed ready to airbrush the Colourcoats ACRN31.

The blue was airbrushed and the masks removed to reveal this

Which I am very pleased with

 

Then the tricky bit, placing the masks in position to paint the code letters on the fuselage, they are very large which does not help matters.

I've covered over the roundel so that there is no change of it getting damaged by tape or mask, the tape on the left is a guide for the mask.

And masks in place, with the letters picked out, at this stage it is difficult to see if the codes are in the correct position, but it looked good to me.

Aibrushed with Medium Sea Grey and this was the result.

I'll leave well alone for a couple of days and then go for the serials and then the stencils.

 

Cheers

 

Dennis