Jump to content

Honda Prelude by Fnick - Aoshima 1:24


Fnick

Recommended Posts

Morning all

 

Suspension and steering parts all done.may weather it a bit with some accent panel line black. Not sure yet.

 

spacer.png

 

I like the wheel finish as is so all I did was use a black wash to accentuate the Honda "H" and add the tyre valve (idea copied with no shame whatsoever from one of @johnlambert build logs! 😄)

 

spacer.png

 

Yes the tyre still needs a bit of sanding down...

 

Obviously couldn't resist

 

spacer.png

 

That lead me to spot that there is a rather large gap between the wheel arch and the body

 

spacer.png

 

Which in my eyes doesn't look great so I'll have to use some plastic card to fill the gaps.

 

I found some photos of my prelude.

 

spacer.png

 

This was taken before I had the whole front (doors included) resprayed. It looked a lot better for it. Of course I didn't take any photos once the paint job had been done because that would have been a really good idea...🙄🙃.

 

I also had the exhaust replaced with a stainless steel one when I got the car because the original one failed the MOT and getting a custom one was cheaper than getting a Honda replacement!

 

spacer.png

 

I'm going to try and scratch build the muffler and exhaust tip. The rear of the exhaust was an oval shape and I couldn't find something suitable in 1:24 scale on the web.

 

Thanks for looking. Nick

  • Like 5
Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...

Evening all

 

Some more progress. Exhaust muffler and tip is coming along nicely. Stainless steel with the tip in chrome. Quite chuffed for my first attempt at scratch modelling a part. Apologies for slightly blurry photo but phone just would not focus...

 

spacer.png

 

Also started on the interior tub.

 

spacer.png

 

And lots of black interior parts! Base coat of satin black. Some areas will have Matt or gloss black applied to really make the interior pop!😄

 

spacer.png

 

Murphy decide to pay a visit... Cracks have appeared pretty much over all the bodywork ☹️. No idea why. Hoping a second round of polishing will help.

 

 spacer.png

 

Oh well c'est la vie as we say in France... I didnt say that by the way.... Google French swearwords if you want to get an idea! 😁

 

Thanks for looking

 

Nick

  • Like 1
  • Sad 3
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Cheers Andy.

 

I think it's just the clear coat that has cracked. Maybe it doesn't agree with the Mr hobby paint I used as I didn't have that issue on the Chrysler where I used Tamiya paint and clear. But who knows. I'll leave the body well alone for now and carry on with the interior just to make sure the cracking process is over before I attempt (somehow) to repair it.

 

Nick

Link to comment
Share on other sites

That's such a shame about the paint. Not something I've experienced myself so I can't give any direct advice. But if what I've read is anything to go by I'm afraid you may have to brace yourself for stripping the paint and starting again. Having said that, I'm really hoping that someone with more experience of paint than me will come along with a miracle cure as it was looking very good prior to the paint shrinking like that.

  • Thanks 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Yes I was thinking the same but (apart from the pain of doing restarting body from scratch) I don't really fancy running into the same problem twice...

 

I might try the sanding/polishing route first and see where I end up. If the problem is still there then...mmmh....

 

Or maybe another option would be to add a couple more coats of clear.

 

Need to sleep on it. Unless anyone else has any ideas!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I fear Spiny is right looking at the photo as it appears the cracks may go right through the clear. It may still be worth trying to sand the clear right back to paint before commiting to stripping it as if you're careful (and lucky) you might be able to get it smooth enough to respray the clear if you don't damage the base paint when sanding.

 

The only time (touch wood!) I've had this happen was on the roof of a Tamiya Mini Cooper - main body was painted in Tamiya spray can surf blue and the white roof  airbrushed with Tamiya acrylic from a jar. Both were then clearcoated with Tamiya clear from a spray can. Couple of years later I noticed the roof had cracked like crazy paving whilst the blue was still perfect. I did manage to sand the clear off the roof and respray it , but think I was pretty lucky! Still have no idea why it happened...

 

Good luck :)

 

Keith

  • Thanks 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Cheers Keith for your thoughts. Another possibility is for me to use the clear I used on my Mustang which I think was called clear Kote (or something similar) wasnt quite as good as the TS13 but it was used over the hobby aqueous without any problems. If I go down the route of sanding and adding some clear I may try this on the boot as that can easily be isolated from the other sections.

 

Nick

Edited by Fnick
  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

I've had this before when applying clear coat over a painted surface which wasn't fully cured. Nowadays I try (and sometimes forget!) to let each coat fully dry, and apply thin coats if I'm doing a plastic model. My cure for the latter is to stick to resin :)

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thanks for your thoughts saberjet. I'm pretty certain I waited at least 24h before clear coating but maybe that wasnt enough. What is weird is that the cracks took a few weeks to appear... Still not sure how to solve this particular connundrum

 

Nick

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I accept I'm being a bit overcautious, but I generally try and leave 2 weeks between coats, with 1 week as my minimum. One thing which is defintely worth doing is to put your nose to the model (not on it obviously, you don't want a nose-print in the paint :) )- if you can still smell the paint it's definitely too soon to be spraying. The fact that the cracks took a few weeks to appear implies to me that it's more likely to be a case of the first coat not being fully cured rather than any reaction between the layers (no guarantees though!) And if that is the case, and the cracks are only in the clearcoat, you may get away with sanding back the clear and spraying again. Just be aware that metallic paints don't take kindly to sanding.

  • Thanks 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thanks again Spiny for thoughts and advice. Much appreciated. Maybe I didnt leave long enough between painting and clear. I have sanded back the boot lid and the cracks are pretty much gone. I did do an intermediate step of polishing again and they were still there but just very hard to see. I'm hoping that a few clear coats will fill in the gaps. I after polishing I did get back the shiny look so I am hoping I can sand enough of the clear without touching the paint.

 

Nick

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Evening all

 

As you can see after sanding the whole car still far too many cracks left which wasn't the case on the boot lid. In some places I had already burnt through to the paint and this just made it worse...

 

spacer.png

 

I think if I carried on with more sanding and then applying more clear it would look like a bodge.. and I dont want to have a Honda Bodge...

 

So I've decided to strip back the body and start from scratch...☹️. Best option I think if I want a good looking model.

 

Into to tub of oven cleaner it goes...

 

Nick

Edited by Fnick
  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

That's a shame - but something I know all to well, I've used far more brake fluid stripping my model car paint muck ups than I ever did changing the brakes on my real cars....!! Never tried oven cleaner to strip paint, maybe I'll give it a go next time!

 

I'm sure youl'll beat it into submission soon!

 

Keith

  • Thanks 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thanks Keith

 

I'm happy with my decision. I've found every time something is bugging me enough to think about a drastic step like this it's always the best option.

 

And anyway I've got no choice but to do it again now! 🙂

 

Nick

  • Like 2
Link to comment
Share on other sites

10 hours ago, keefr22 said:

Never tried oven cleaner to strip paint

It does work. Well apart from when you run out of oven cleaner...😡🤦‍♂️. Sometimes you just have to laugh...

Edited by Fnick
  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

I've tried Oven cleaner on chrome parts to good effect. Never tried it on painted ones but it looks like a less messy solution than brake fluid, which I've used quite a few times.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hi all

 

Finally managed to get all the paint off. Ironically enough the boot lid which I had sanded and re-cleared was the most difficult spot to remove paint from!

 

I used the opportunity to fill in some scratches I had missed the first time around.

 

So here is where I am at as they say 

 

spacer.png

 

I took the opportunity to glue the scratch build exhaust muffler and tip.

 

spacer.png

 

spacer.png

 

Here's how it looks at the back

 

spacer.png

 

And a comparison with the photo I used to estimate the dimensions

 

spacer.png

 

Next step is to reprime the body. Hopefully a single coat will do.

 

Thanks for looking

 

Nick

Edited by Fnick
  • Like 5
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Evening all

 

Thank you for the comments, likes and support.

 

Interior tub is now done. 50 shades of black! 😋 Well ok just three. Mostly satin but the seats got some Matt black and the speaker grills, steering wheel and some buttons some gloss.

 

This is a right hand drive versions but for some reason the dash decal is for a left hand drive! 

 

spacer.png

 

spacer.png

 

spacer.png

 

Body repaint has started. Hairy stick has done 1 coat. Last time 9 were needed...

 

Thanks for looking.

 

Nick

  • Like 3
Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...

Morning all

 

Body repainted. Going to leave it a week before applying any clear this time...

 

spacer.png

 

Was going to start work on the front number plate but as you can see something is amiss...

 

spacer.png

 

Pretty sure I checked the number plate is 1:24 scale but I hadn't checked the letters and they are clearly not...

 

Any recommendations for 1:24 number plate decals?

 

Thanks for looking, Nick

  • Like 2
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
×
×
  • Create New...