Chrysler 300C by Fnick - AMT 1:24

[Fnick]

Evening all

 

Finally got round to dusting off the DSLR and taking some pics. For those of you who are interested here is a link to the WIP.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

And the last one with the rest of the garage. Got a while to go before Jay Leno gets jealous! 😋

 

 

Thanks for looking.

 

Nick

 

[keefr22]

That's lovely - really like the colour!

 

Keith

[Toftdale]

As Keith said the colour really suits her, lovely build👌. Andy

[johnlambert]

I know the build gave you some problems, but the end result is amazing.

[galaxyg]

Looks good. From the thread title I'd expected the modern version - didn't realise another of the same name had gone a long time before.

[Fnick]

Thank you all for the kind comments.

9 hours ago, galaxyg said:

didn't realise another of the same name had gone a long time before.

Have to admit didn't know either existed until I was browsing the car section of an online model shop! 🙂 Originally wanted to build revell's Cadillac Eldorado but couldn't find any that were not silly money and really wanted to build a 50s chromed up American car and found the Chrysler.

 

Nick

[Marco F.]

Super looking 300C and as said before the colour suits it perfectly 

Marco F 

[swralph]

Looks great Nick.😀

[Spiny]

Excellent work on this, it's ended up looking very nice despite the battles you had with it. And it's also photographed well too.

 

Time for the next one!

 

[CrazyCrank]

A very impressive result, well highlighted by your excellent skills in photography

[Anteater]

Top job, I enjoyed following your WIP.

[Fnick]

Thank you very much all! ☺️. I'll let the camera take the credit for the photography! I did try to follow the method Spiny had described in his Jaguar RFI post but couldn't replicate his setup (don't know much about cameras...)

 

On 11/02/2021 at 21:31, Spiny said:

Time for the next one!

@Spiny here you go: the next one 😁

[Sabrejet]

Now that looks bloody lovely!

[Spiny]

13 hours ago, Fnick said:

Thank you very much all! ☺️. I'll let the camera take the credit for the photography! I did try to follow the method Spiny had described in his Jaguar RFI post but couldn't replicate his setup (don't know much about cameras...)

 

@Spiny here you go: the next one 😁

It doesn't look as though you did a bad job of it - whatever you did works. To be fair, my camera is a decent bridge camera although getting on a bit now (Canon SX40) which helps. And I have a full height tripod as well as a mini one which is only about 3" high so I can set up on the floor if I need to which helps with getting the right distance away.

 

Not sure what settings you have on yours, but as a rough idiots guide (so sorry if any of this seems too simplistic):

 

Macro - you'll probably want to enable this setting (may look like a flower) as it's for close-up work

Aperture/f-stop - a narrower aperture will let less light in and give you a greater depth of field (i.e. the area in focus will be further from front to back) but will need a longer exposure time. A higher f-stop will give you a narrower aperture allowing more of your model to be in focus; a lower f-number will mean less is in focus which is useful if you want to highlight one specific thing.

ISO number - a lower number will mean you need a longer exposure time or more light, but will give a less grainy shot. As you're not taking a photo of a moving object, try to set this as low as possible.

Exposure time - just what it says. If you follow my advice above you will find that you end up with quite a long exposure time unless you can get lots of light on the subject which increases the chance of camera shake, hence me recommending a tripod. And if you use a tripod try to set a delay so you can let go of the camera before the shutter opens - I forgot to set the timer on one shot with a 10-second exposure and had to retake as the shake from me pressing the button was noticeable! As a rough guide, you should be ok to take a handheld shot with times less than 1/50th second if you try to hold steady, and if you can brace your arm and hold your breath you can get sharp shots up to 1/10th second on a reasonably reliable basis. Any longer than that I'd recommend a tripod, although on rare occasions I have got away with exposures as long as a second.

 

But, as with modelling, it's all down to practice and I'd say you've made a cracking start here.

[Pete in Lincs]

Oh, those 'letter' cars. power and beauty. A lovely model, display it with pride.

[Fnick]

Thanks Spiny for the info. I have a nikkon D3100 which in auto mode is fantastic. I do have a macro mos but again it is automatic. There is a manual mode eher I can set ISO and f number but I ended up with shots where the white background looked blue! I probably should download the manual to make sure I am using the settings properly...

 

Nick

Edited February 14, 2021 by Fnick

[Spiny]

Sounds as though the white balance is out (it will be somewhere in the settings somewhere) and is probably set for tungsten lighting and trying to counteract a non-existant redshift - if you took the phtoos during daylight it will turn things particularly blue. If you can find the white balance menu, either set it to automatic (the Canon version at least is very good so I presume Nikon will be similar) or manually select whatever type of lighting you have. If LED, try flourescent setting, but play around until you find what works.