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15cm Sturm-Infanteriegeschütz 33 auf Pz III


THEscaleSHOW

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Hello all

 

The build continues and at the moment I am struggling with the soldering of the PE fenders 😩
In order not to lose my nerves I have started building the vignette.
The scene is supposed to represent a piece of industrial railway track, so I will embed the tracks in cobblestones.
For all those who are interested in Panzerart figures, here are a few pictures.
The casting is great, but the heads are a bit too small for my taste.
I will therefore use Hornet, which I think are the best anyway.
Later the soldering battle continues. 💪

 

Have fun!
MD

 

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See you!

 

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Great work with the build you obviously have a real talent for this, no doubt it'll look tremendous when completed!

I like the look and poise of the Panzer Art figures but as you say the heads do appear a little small, looking forward to seeing what you do with the base too.

 

Still using CA on the etch bits, surprising how much comes with the RFM kit, could probably do with trying solder...

 

Atb

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On 10/02/2021 at 09:44, THEscaleSHOW said:

Hey Darryl

 

Cool that you are also planning a vignette 👍
I think a model comes out even better that way, because it appeals to the viewer's imagination.
After this box my life has changed 😁

MD

 

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Ooh, the Matchbox kits with little bases! I'd forgotten all about those, now I want them all. Did the wespe include a little skull? Amazing how the memory can recall these things.

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20 hours ago, Jasper dog said:

Great work with the build you obviously have a real talent for this, no doubt it'll look tremendous when completed!

I like the look and poise of the Panzer Art figures but as you say the heads do appear a little small, looking forward to seeing what you do with the base too.

 

Still using CA on the etch bits, surprising how much comes with the RFM kit, could probably do with trying solder...

 

Atb

Hey Darryl

 

In the end everything went well - I had used the wrong solder.


Thanks-and If you want to solder larger parts, here are some of my experiences:

- all parts must be free of grease
- sand all parts
- apply flux on both sides of the soldering area
- fix larger parts in advance with CA glue.
- always clean the soldering tip


Maybe it is helpful - in any case good luck 👍

MD

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Hello and thanks all for the comments 🙂


I finished my soldering work on the fenders yesterday.
Everything went very well - I just used the wrong solder at the beginning 😴
The fit of the ABER parts is good-but unfortunately the instructions are not.
You can't compare it with Voyager sets, but the price is right.
Today I will replace the holding rods with brass wire and solder the lugs.

 

For Robert and for those who also are interested, here are a few pictures at the end of how I build walls and pavements out of styrofoam 🧱

 

Have fun!
MD

 

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bending the frame

 

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CA glue helps to fix the position

 

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first dry fit

 

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no solder leaked at the sides😅

 

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holes for the rear hinges were missing

 

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I leave out the fender at the rear left so that you can see the Winterketten better. That makes it a bit more dramatic 😱

 

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also holes for the front hinges

 

 

The next pictures show my way of creating walls and paving stones.
It's a very simple method that can look really real.
To make sure that everything is in scale (unless you want to build a knight's castle 😁 ), I have a small overview of the different stone dimensions and the types of laying (from Germany) for all those who are interested.
Since my scene is set in Stalingrad, I used the Russisches Normalformat.

 

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I have panels in different thicknesses in stock.
You can order them in the shop for architectural supplies, this is often much cheaper than in the model shop 🤑

 

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simply cut in the desired pattern and then trace it with the toothpick

 

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then add texture with a ball of aluminium foil

 

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If you press in individual stones, it looks even more irregular and realistic.
Now just prime and paint the stones with solvent-free paint. With thinned putty like plaster, you can recreate the mortar very well - simply apply it with a sponge and wipe it off again after some drying time.
You don't have to be a tiler to do this 😏

 

See you!

 

 

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Hello all

 

First of all, thanks to all who write 🙂
The GB is a lot of fun and it is very interesting to see how many different models of the same type of tank are created.
Thanks for that Stix 👍

 

Ok, the days I could not build so much, because I had to work a lot.
Nevertheless, here are a few new pictures today.
I have almost finished the fenders and sometimes the research for such unimportant parts is not so easy.

Just the picture you need doesn't exist or doesn't show the original condition.
Especially sheet metal and small holders are simple and poorly reproduced.
Unfortunately, I noticed this too late with the hinges for the rear right track cover, for example, and the parts were not correct in the PE set either.

But no matter, this will not harm the model and me 😁

 

Have fun everyone!
MD

 

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for a clean tank the bucket is a must-have 💩 🤮

I also soldered the box

 

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0.8mm hole for the support pin

 

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i use the steel pin for the holder because it is more stable than plastic. The holder with the 4 lugs is made of 1mm brass tube and can simply be slid over it

 

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Since I'm leaving out a part from the rear fender, the holder stands alone

The steel pin prevents anything from breaking off and the holes for the screws are logically drilled out

 

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i have added MC screws to the holder for the spare track links-welding seams will follow

 

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the hinge is unfortunately not correct, as the picture below shows

I like to bend some parts beforehand because otherwise something could break off on the model

 

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See you!

 

 

 

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Hello all

 

Have a nice Sunday and thank you for the friendly comments 🙂 🤝

 

Today it's about more details on the IG, the vignette and the construction of the magic metal tracks.
For all those who work with burnisher and are interested I have posted my medium.
As the comparison shows, you can save a lot of money with the same result.
You can find it in the Tiffany hobby shop.
It is important that it is for tin, brass and copper, because burnisher is also available for steel and this does not work for model tracks.
It should be clear that the parts have to be clean and free of grease, and any residues of super glue have to be removed beforehand, but you can also use the rebonder for this.
I don't know the result with resin bolts like the ones from MC, so it's better to test beforehand 🧐

 

Have fun!
MD

 

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some boltheads w. punch and die set

 

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Holes for the hooks added, after that i use a PE saw to remove them from the sprue

 

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Wiring for the antenna

 

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I used a plastic wire instead of metal and closed the ends of the hinges with a hot blade of a hobby knife

This way you don't need superglue and everything is still movableI

 

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here you can see glue remains

 

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Hocus-pocus-simsalabim 🧙‍♂️ 🐸 🦎 🍄

 

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clean 😎

 

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enough track links for both sides 👍

 

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plug together and carefully bend over the clips

 

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do not press too hard, then everything remains movable

 

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also fits well on the Dragon drive sprocket 😅

 

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one side is done in 10min 👍

 

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a comparison can save money 🤑

 

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as you can see, the same effect

The longer you leave it on, the darker the tracks become (the light spots are remnants of CA glue)

 

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the rail is embedded in the paving stones and the wooden frame also fits

 

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the track is on the wrong side, but I only checked the layout 🧐 🤓

 

See you!

 

 

 

 

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Look good MD!

How do the tracks hold up just being held together with the tabs rather than wire?

I seem to recall when, I think it was, Easy Links came out they could fall apart with handling.

 

Would you say these are better or worse than Fruils?

 

It's a real treat watching this come together,  thanks!

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2 hours ago, Jasper dog said:

Look good MD!

How do the tracks hold up just being held together with the tabs rather than wire?

I seem to recall when, I think it was, Easy Links came out they could fall apart with handling.

 

Would you say these are better or worse than Fruils?

 

It's a real treat watching this come together,  thanks!

Hey Darryl

 

The MMT are great and easy to build, you save a lot of time compared to MC or Friul.
The only disadvantage in my opinion is the assembly of the finished track on the tank.
With Friul you just plug in the last wire and everything is connected.
I have not glued the idler weel and mounted the track completely closed.
The winding is so a little more work, but it goes with a little patience without problems.
The small tabs look very fragile, but can also close 1-2 times and open again without breaking.
I had done it to try out the right length.
The MMT I would definitely buy again, because the timesaving is enormous. And who wants to assemble tracks for hours 😴
Oh yes, the annoying drill out as with Friul you can also save 😅

 

MD

 

 

 

 

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