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T-34-85 Egyptian, Miniart 37071 Interior Kit.


edjbartos

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7 hours ago, Trevor L said:

I've been watching this with great interest.

Some fabulous work so far, which is inspiring for a relative amateur like me.

I know I can't achieve this level yet, or maybe ever, but it makes me want to keep trying new things and improving.

 

Many thanks Trevor for your kind words, I really appreciate it. “it makes me want to keep trying new things and improving.” always keep doing that and don’t be afraid to ask, there are loads of really talented and knowledgable modellers here who would be glad to help.

 

all the best

 

Ed

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7 hours ago, Cerberus said:

 

 I think we all have moments like this, when something comes close to a flying lesson ;)

 

 You have created a fantastic looking interior Ed, :thumbsup:

 

 Matt

 

Thanks Matt, I’m pleased with the result so far, I have looked at the instructions for the turret interior, i thought that the base was complicated! the turret is crazy...:wall:But I’m looking forward to it..

 

all the best my friend

 

Ed

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6 hours ago, Bullbasket said:

That looks so good Ed. I hope that the majority will still be seem in the finished article.

 

John.

Thanks John I appreciate that, yes I have a plan or two to show as much as possible, hopefully it will look ok

 

cheers

 

Ed

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Hi guys, a little while since the last update, not had much time to progress this build, plus the fact that tonight I have been unable to embed photo's from Microsoft onedrive, so have had to use Flickr for now, not sure why, I can embed older photo's but not these...

 

So back to the build, I have now added the top of the body to the base.....

 


 

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Hopefully the idea of this build is to show as much as possible of the interior,  the fit of parts is lovely so, to that end I intend not to glue the front plate or the top of the engine cover, so it should look like this....

 

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For the rear plate of the tank, Miniart give you an option to have the plate open or closed, but I want both so I have drilled through the hinge and added 0.4mm copper wire so that I can have this open or closed at will...

 

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Now this brings a further problem in that the construction of the exhausts mean that I cannot have the plate movable so I will need to do a little mod to fix that.

 

The front plate may also be an issue with the mud guards but that should be ok...

 

that's all for now, thanks for looking in..

 

Ed

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2 hours ago, edjbartos said:

Hopefully the idea of this build is to show as much as possible of the interior,  the fit of parts is lovely so, to that end I intend not to glue the front plate or the top of the engine cover, so it should look like this....

 

 A very good plan Ed, should look very good with all that interior on show :thumbsup: Plus you can have the top plate of the turret lift off as well maybe?

 

 Matt

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10 hours ago, Pig of the Week said:

It would've been a terrible shame not to have all that lovely interior visible...love the little hinges on the cover btw  ! 👍

 

Thanks for looking in and commenting, totally agree with you there, a lot of work has already been done so it would be a shame...

 

thanks

 

Ed

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8 hours ago, Cerberus said:

 A very good plan Ed, should look very good with all that interior on show :thumbsup: Plus you can have the top plate of the turret lift off as well maybe?

 

 Matt

 

Thanks Matt, yes, as with the last two models I will have the top plate removable to show off the interior as well

 

thanks for your comments

 

Ed

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stunning.... will start a T-54 interior in a while (fitting in with a group build elsewhere), hope I get somewhere near to your builds

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  • 2 weeks later...

 

A new update just to keep things moving, I seem to have spent quite a lot of time constructing but with little to show for it. Anyway I have now started to add items to the body, first of all adding the suspension arms, no real problem there just a mini assembly for each one. 

 

I also decided to replace the plastic grab handles with copper wire. The tie down brackets were PE  and flat, so I also replaced these with copper wire...

 

 

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Then I started to add the front mud guards. This was my first problem, I glued these to the front plate so that I could take the whole plate off in order to view the inside of the tank. But when completed this altered the fit and I could not get the cover back on properly. So I spent quite some time easing areas around the guards and the body until it all fitted ok....   
 

 

 

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The rear mud guards were ok...   

 

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I then started to finish off the assembly of the engine cover, lots of little parts, quite poor instructions here as Miniart did not show clearly how some of the parts were to be positioned, The items in question were some plates that needed to be positioned at an angle, these were by the engine hatch at the top.  After a while I realised that I had glued them in the wrong position so had to unglue and reposition.. The metal grille at the back was quite delicate but fine to assemble....
 

 

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The next issue I knew I was going to have was for the exhausts. The shape of the exhaust is pretty much a dog leg shape, so leaving them whole would have prevented me from opening the rear plate so that I could view the transmission etc. So I decided to cut these at the same angle as the rear plate when in the closed position, so when the rear plate is closed the cut part of the exhaust is up against the plate. I can now attach the other half of the exhaust onto the outside of the plate so that the rear plate is free to open and close at will. There is an exhaust cover which fits over the exhausts which I will attach with the exhaust after painting the body...
 

 

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I have been doing a little shopping, firstly I have bought some tow cables from Eureka XL, I like these, they were nice on my T-55A...
 

 

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Then I decided to buy some metal tracks for a change, I have never done any before so wanted to try them out. I bought the "wafer" type from Masterclub, I have done a little research and they seem to have quite favourable reviews..
 

 

 

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They look really nice with good detail, and have a nice weight to them. They come with two sets of resin pins, one set looks as though it's just a straight pin, the other has the shape of a pan head. I noticed on the box that It states "No glue required", but I'm going to drop a little CA just at the end as I finally fit the pin. I'm not taking any chances...

 

 

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That's all for now, still lots of items to add to the exterior, will be back when I've done some more...

 

all the best

 

Ed

 

 

 

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Handles, photo-etch and tracks, all of my favourite things.:D

Great progress Ed, It's got to be worth the extra effort to be able to show off your excellent interior work.

Wayne

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6 hours ago, edjbartos said:

The tie down brackets were PE  and flat, so I also replaced these with copper wire...

 They do look so much better when done with copper wire yes, and those Master Club tracks look very nice, I think "No glue required" is super secret code for "You will need glue at some point" ;)

 

 Very nice progress.

 

 Matt

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I'm torn by your last update.

 

Don't worry, the modeling skill on display, is fantastic as always.

 

No, it's the full length axles on the swing arms. I'm torn because while I'm happy that Miniart designed these better on their T-34 series than on the T-44 I'm mired in; I'm unhappy that I passed up the 20% discount on Miniart T-34 that was being offered yesterday on Sprue brothers, because I thought I didn't want to deal with their wheels again! :D

 

 

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12 hours ago, diablo rsv said:

Handles, photo-etch and tracks, all of my favourite things.:D

Great progress Ed, It's got to be worth the extra effort to be able to show off your excellent interior work.

Wayne

 

 

Thanks Wayne, I totally agree, the tracks look interesting, looking forward to doing those, if they come out ok then that's it for me, I will buy on all future builds, not that I do that many per year...

 

all the best

 

Ed

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3 hours ago, Peter Browne said:

Miniart have also released a non-interior version:

 

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https://www.scalemates.com/kits/miniart-37098-t-34-85--1311252

 

 

Thanks Peter, yes I have seen that one and it may be one for a future build, at the moment I still have a few interior builds to start which will take some time to complete I think...🙂

 

thanks

 

Ed

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3 hours ago, SoftScience said:

I'm torn by your last update.

 

Don't worry, the modeling skill on display, is fantastic as always.

 

No, it's the full length axles on the swing arms. I'm torn because while I'm happy that Miniart designed these better on their T-34 series than on the T-44 I'm mired in; I'm unhappy that I passed up the 20% discount on Miniart T-34 that was being offered yesterday on Sprue brothers, because I thought I didn't want to deal with their wheels again! :D

 

 

 

 

Thanks for that, I know what you mean, I had those on the T-55A and Panzer III and they are horrible. I have recently purchased the T-54 Dozer Blade with full interior, it has the same awful swing arms. What I will try to do is to drill a hole in the arm and add a pin then drill a hole in the corresponding wheel, hopefully for a better fit.

 

thanks for commenting

 

Ed

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7 hours ago, Cerberus said:

 They do look so much better when done with copper wire yes, and those Master Club tracks look very nice, I think "No glue required" is super secret code for "You will need glue at some point" ;)

 

 Very nice progress.

 

 Matt

Cheers Matt, yes exactly that was my thought at the time, with the weight of the links you just know that some will come apart just as you get to fit them onto the model and they crumble in you hands... 🤣

 

Ed

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As has already been said, neat work with the wire. It makes such a difference. Let us know how you get on with those tracks. I've only ever use Fruilmodel in the past, so I'll be interested to know how you get on with these ones.

 

John.

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On 14/04/2021 at 07:54, Bullbasket said:

As has already been said, neat work with the wire. It makes such a difference. Let us know how you get on with those tracks. I've only ever use Fruilmodel in the past, so I'll be interested to know how you get on with these ones.

 

John.

 

 

Thank you John, yes, no problem I'll let you know about the tracks, from what I have read you need to make sure that the holes are clean by running a 0.5mm drill through them as any little obstruction will bend the soft resin pins. 

 

Ed

Edited by edjbartos
5mm to 0.5mm
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