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Tiger II (Revell 1/72) Tracks Problem


echen

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"Dunkelgelb" base coat now applied. (Otherwise known as Humbrol 94)

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Camouflage-wise I'm thinking about Richard Freiherr Von Rosens' "300" from Panzer Abteilung 503 as the subject; or something close.

With that in mind I have a couple of questions for the experts.

The monochrome photos of his KT show the three colour pattern. The lightest tone, I think, must be the dunkelgelb. The mid and dark tones are not so easy to interpret. My initial thought is dark tone = green and medium tone = red-brown. Does anyone know for sure?

 

Also some of the KTs in photos I've seen of Pz. Abt. 503 have a rectangular plate/board on the side of the turret toward the rear with a semi-circle cut out at one end. It looks like these items might just be hung on the turrets rather than fixed. Anyone know what these were for?

 

Thanks in anticipation

 

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Experimented by removing colour from a pic of my green/red-brown/dunkelgelb Panther. In the monochrome image the green shows up as the mid-tone so I'll go with that in interpreting Pz.Abt. 503 historic pics for the camouflage.

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Unless anyone has a definitive answer from somewhere else.

Edited by echen
Pic added
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  • 1 month later...

Beginnings of some mud to conceal the gaps in the track links.

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More to be done but a little progress at least.

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  • 1 month later...

Had some Rotbraun on the go for my Tiger 1 so I thought I'd start the cam on the Tiger II.

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Next will be the green, once the brown is hardened off properly.

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It was freehand by hairy stick, VERY roughly copied from Richard Freiherr Von Rosens' KT before he shipped to Hungary, or one side of it at least and the other side of a few comrades' vehicles in the background of the same picture.

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Tri-colour cam now developing.

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It's happened again! Pic posted before I spotted the error! Green stripe on front stops at edge of glacis instead of continuing down like the rotbraun.

Puts finger to head and says red backwards. (Derrrrrrr!)

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Cam looks a bit stark but some washes will tone it down and make it a bit less "hi-contrast". - hopefully.

Edited by echen
Clarification
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  • 1 month later...
On 5/19/2021 at 8:36 AM, Pig of the Week said:

Maybe they ran out of green at that point !

 

Decided it didn't look right after all...........................

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So I added the last bit of green camo down the front armour.

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On my last tank build (a T34) I would end up with a gap. I started with the sprocket wheel, going with the bottom pieces followed with the idler wheel and found that the top run would not connect at the rear. This time my solution was to saw the axle for the idler wheel and push the wheel forward  so it would connect to the top length. On my earlier builds of the same kit I always ended up ½ tracklink short and adde a piece of plasic under a road wheel. I think that moving the idler wheel is the way I will adjust track faults in the future.   

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Good  remedy. I had not thought about moving running gear to fit the tracks. Lateral thinking has never been my strong point.👍

 

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On 7/7/2021 at 11:15 PM, echen said:

I had not thought about moving running gear to fit the tracks.

 

 

It took me almost thirty years before I thought about it. 😀

Edited by Orso
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On 3/1/2021 at 7:07 PM, echen said:

Tiger hatch lifting handles.

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Handles to turret and forward deck hatches added using fuse wire.

Also to the engine deck and escape hatch.

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They always start off with 90 degree angles and straight handles but fitting them nearly always seems to introduce a bend somewhere.....

However I think they're a marginal improvement on the plastic blobs they replace, even if they are a little over-scale.

The lifting loops are stretched sprue pulled through holes drilled at the required location then cemented in place at the desired height. 🧑‍🔧

For grab handles and a perfect fit

     Remove most of the original moulded handle leaving enough trace to determine the drilling for anchoring the new wire grab handle. BDrill the holes and remove  the rest of the moulded handle to flush. thread the wire through the Drillings.Pull down and the right angles will form between the hole and the plastic. Push back out to the desired height and glue in place. 

   Hope this helps. 

 

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  • 7 months later...

A little more progress. My first attempt at chipping.

I think it'll need some tidying but it's a start.

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Next the pioneer tools, tow cables etc.; then a pin wash and then some overall washes and, maybe, a little more work on the tracks.

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26 minutes ago, Knevi said:

They'll be a big help when I get to make a start on mine 

Thanks for your comments. This has certainly been a steep learning curve for me. Glad it's proving helpful.

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@Orso I've got 9 on my desk that have been hanging around at different stages of building for ages. There are a load more on the workbench in my workshop where it's too cold to operate. I really need to get some done!

Edited by echen
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18 hours ago, Knevi said:

I might have to opt for a vignette with a thrown track (or 2)

The Tiger II tracks are a bit tricky but not impossible if you follow the process on here rather than the kit instructions. Revell Tiger I Ausf H and E tracks are a nightmare! The kit destructions are a waste of paper with regard to fitting the tracks! :wall:

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4 minutes ago, echen said:

The Tiger II tracks are a bit tricky but not impossible if you follow the process on here rather than the kit instructions. Revell Tiger I Ausf H and E tracks are a nightmare! The kit destructions are a waste of paper with regard to fitting the tracks! :wall:

I'll certainly be following all the tips you've pulled together here. There seem to be a range of options for idler position, track tightness and sag too, going by the photographic evidence I've seen.

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