Andy J Posted March 9, 2021 Share Posted March 9, 2021 Your doing a grand job on this Darryl looking better all the time 👍 👏. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jasper dog Posted March 10, 2021 Author Share Posted March 10, 2021 19 hours ago, PlaStix said: Hi Darryl. Great to see the progress you have made and it is looking superb. Great to see the paint going on too. I hope the tracks go together okay. Kind regards, Stix 19 hours ago, Andy J said: Your doing a grand job on this Darryl looking better all the time 👍 👏. Thanks chaps, be good to reach the painting stage, just need to get the hatches painted and tacked in place first. The tracks are going together ok, how "workable" they will remain is another matter but as long as I can form them around the drive and idles wheels it'll be ok... Cheers, appreciate the comments! 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Robert Stuart Posted March 10, 2021 Share Posted March 10, 2021 Making good progress thee Darryl. Enjoy your tracks - if you can get into a rhythm, they should be quite calming. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Retired Bob Posted March 10, 2021 Share Posted March 10, 2021 5 hours ago, Jasper dog said: The tracks are going together ok, how "workable" they will remain is another matter but as long as I can form them around the drive and idles wheels it'll be ok... They look better than the Miniart ones that I made, should be workable to get the right effect. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jasper dog Posted March 10, 2021 Author Share Posted March 10, 2021 5 hours ago, Robert Stuart said: Enjoy your tracks - if you can get into a rhythm, they should be quite calming. 5 hours ago, Retired Bob said: should be workable to get the right effect. Always good to have a chuckle! In all fairness get into the rhythm, a few lengths each morning and ..... 91 links, one side done. Rather stiff and not all flexing as they should but once painted sure they can be made to conform! 8 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dads203 Posted March 10, 2021 Share Posted March 10, 2021 They do look good and robust mate, some really nice detail on the links 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Retired Bob Posted March 10, 2021 Share Posted March 10, 2021 21 minutes ago, Jasper dog said: Always good to have a chuckle! You know what they say, if you didn't laugh, you'd cry. I made the Miniart tracks last year for the Tamiya StuG IIIB, I'm surprised none have appeared on this GB. I found the tracks needed gluing to the return rollers or they do their own thing. Here it is unpainted, but I have some decals now, grey or grey. At one stage it was going to be put on this: But who has the time or space to make this, I keep saying I'll make it....one day. 6 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jasper dog Posted March 10, 2021 Author Share Posted March 10, 2021 1 hour ago, Dads203 said: They do look good and robust mate, some really nice detail on the links Thanks Dan, not sure about robust, already bust a couple of pins/joints. They have the typical short pins that need a spot of glue just below the head... So many ways this can go to pot....from the action of snipping the sprue pulling the pin back out to the extra thin melting the pin or pin hole! However detail is very nice, imo, and the hollow guide horn is nicely done. Lower hull painted panzer grey along with the wheels and the inside of the hatches. Undecided yet as to when I'll fit the wheels and tracks, before or after the major paintwork.. For that matter still haven't settled upon theatre and therefore colour...they'll all get an initial coat of panzer grey regardless but then?? The two rings in the picture are masks from the etch fret used for painting/masking the wheels and tyres, both road wheels and return idlers. 1 hour ago, Retired Bob said: You know what they say, if you didn't laugh, you'd cry. I made the Miniart tracks last year for the Tamiya StuG IIIB, I'm surprised none have appeared on this GB. I found the tracks needed gluing to the return rollers or they do their own thing. Here it is unpainted, but I have some decals now, grey or grey. At one stage it was going to be put on this: But who has the time or space to make this, I keep saying I'll make it....one day. Tbh Bob those miniart tracks do look a real pain, think I've landed lucky! Know what you mean about the FAMO, I've the Tamiya Dragon Wagon I keep saying the same thing about...one day... Perhaps if I get the necessary AM together... Cheers 6 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Retired Bob Posted March 10, 2021 Share Posted March 10, 2021 21 minutes ago, Jasper dog said: Tbh Bob those miniart tracks do look a real pain, think I've landed lucky! To be honest Darryl the Miniart tracks biggest problem was being soft plastic, I bought 2 sets off ebay, only £11+ each, one set for the StuG, the other for an early Panzer IV. Both being Tamiya, they had late tracks with solid guide horns. Just so wrong, if you know. 29 minutes ago, Jasper dog said: Know what you mean about the FAMO, I've the Tamiya Dragon Wagon I keep saying the same thing about...one day... My Dragon Wagon is mostly finished, just needs decals, weathering and a load on the back. I had built a Tamiya early Sherman, then found out how wrong that is...Tamiya, again with the glaring errors. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jasper dog Posted March 11, 2021 Author Share Posted March 11, 2021 9 hours ago, Retired Bob said: To be honest Darryl the Miniart tracks biggest problem was being soft plastic, I bought 2 sets off ebay, only £11+ each, one set for the StuG, the other for an early Panzer IV. Both being Tamiya, they had late tracks with solid guide horns. Just so wrong, if you know. Tbh Bob, I haven't figured out yet what should or shouldn't have solid horns... is it age related, early had hollow horns and if so at what point did they change to solid? The plastic for the RFM ones is different to the rest of the kit and a little on the soft side too, I'm assuming that's why it has a tendency to melt if not careful with the extra thin. 9 hours ago, Retired Bob said: My Dragon Wagon is mostly finished, just needs decals, weathering and a load on the back. I had built a Tamiya early Sherman, then found out how wrong that is...Tamiya, again with the glaring errors. The only Tamiya Sherman I've built is the Easy 8 which I believe is ok. As it is I've enough Dragon, Asuka/tasca/eduard versions waiting to be built so I've no shortage of candidates to go on the back. And of course its having space to display it once built. Tempted to chuck the car out of the garage and convert the space into a dedicated space with cabinets, book shelves, benches, plumbed in spray booth etc..As the garage is integral and has the boiler its dry and has a degree of background warmth...🤔 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Robert Stuart Posted March 11, 2021 Share Posted March 11, 2021 1 hour ago, Jasper dog said: The plastic for the RFM ones is different to the rest of the kit and a little on the soft side too, I'm assuming that's why it has a tendency to melt if not careful with the extra thin. Are you using liquid glue for these tracks? That is a No-No in my book. It is likely to be sucked into the joint and lock the track run. I use tube cement for this type of track - it is less likely to be sucked along the track pin. A small spot of tube cement is squeezed out onto a lid (e.g. a metal jam jar lid), then applied with a sharpened cocktail stick. Put the pins in part way Put a small blob near the outer end of the pins Push the pins in further Working along the pin-sprue, starting at the outer pins (most forward/backward), and working toward the centre snip the pins free. This gives a slight rocking effect to the sprue, potentially working pins out, so keep an eye on that ... ... but, (IMO) there is less stress on the remaining pins. Finally, push the pins home And a 'small spot squeezed out'? The pool of glue dries off, and needs replacing fairly frequently. The cocktail stick can be replaced or re-sharpened at need. 3 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Retired Bob Posted March 11, 2021 Share Posted March 11, 2021 2 hours ago, Jasper dog said: The only Tamiya Sherman I've built is the Easy 8 which I believe is ok. Tamiya's Early production Sherman was made in1995, It is still available at a reasonable price but has many glaring errors, using old suspension parts from their earlier M4 A3 kit, the front plate is a mis-match of different variants. It would take a lot of work to correct, easier to use a Dragon M4 kit which I have several, I can never understand why Taska/Asuka never made the M4 welded hull? 2 hours ago, Jasper dog said: Tempted to chuck the car out of the garage and convert the space into a dedicated space with cabinets, book shelves, benches, plumbed in spray booth etc..As the garage is integral and has the boiler its dry and has a degree of background warmth...🤔 Same with me, though I do my spraying in there, but it's still weather dependent. 52 minutes ago, Robert Stuart said: Are you using liquid glue for these tracks? That is a No-No in my book. It is likely to be sucked into the joint and lock the track run. I agree with Robert, I make a stronger, thicker bottle glue. I add tube glue to Humbrol liquid poly to make it less runny for jobs like this where you don't want capillary action and slower drying time. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
THEscaleSHOW Posted March 11, 2021 Share Posted March 11, 2021 18 hours ago, Jasper dog said: Always good to have a chuckle! In all fairness get into the rhythm, a few lengths each morning and ..... 91 links, one side done. Rather stiff and not all flexing as they should but once painted sure they can be made to conform! I like good plastic tracks like this 👍 You can glue them well and nothing wobbles later 😅 MD 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jasper dog Posted March 11, 2021 Author Share Posted March 11, 2021 10 hours ago, Robert Stuart said: Are you using liquid glue for these tracks? That is a No-No in my book. It is likely to be sucked into the joint and lock the track run. I use tube cement for this type of track - it is less likely to be sucked along the track pin. A small spot of tube cement is squeezed out onto a lid (e.g. a metal jam jar lid), then applied with a sharpened cocktail stick. Put the pins in part way Put a small blob near the outer end of the pins Push the pins in further Working along the pin-sprue, starting at the outer pins (most forward/backward), and working toward the centre snip the pins free. This gives a slight rocking effect to the sprue, potentially working pins out, so keep an eye on that ... ... but, (IMO) there is less stress on the remaining pins. Finally, push the pins home And a 'small spot squeezed out'? The pool of glue dries off, and needs replacing fairly frequently. The cocktail stick can be replaced or re-sharpened at need. Thanks, tube glue....now there's an idea! Last time I used that stuff I had to ask the postie to clean up after his horse! Don't have any tube cement but Mr Cement deluxe is fairly thick compared to extra thin...🤔 The problem with the pins when it comes to trimming them off is the gap between the pin head and the sprue, it's so tight trying to get the nippers in is pulling the pin back out if the glue hasn't dried sufficiently. (Likewise the slight pressure of a knife blade is enough to pull the pin back). Saying all that think some tube glue or the Revell contacta is possibly going on the shopping list! Thanks for all that though Robert, really appreciate you taking the time to explain your procedure/method, definitely something to have a crack at. Cheers 👍 Darryl 1 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jasper dog Posted March 11, 2021 Author Share Posted March 11, 2021 10 hours ago, Retired Bob said: Tamiya's Early production Sherman was made in1995, It is still available at a reasonable price but has many glaring errors, using old suspension parts from their earlier M4 A3 kit, the front plate is a mis-match of different variants. It would take a lot of work to correct, easier to use a Dragon M4 kit which I have several, I can never understand why Taska/Asuka never made the M4 welded hull? Same with me, though I do my spraying in there, but it's still weather dependent. I agree with Robert, I make a stronger, thicker bottle glue. I add tube glue to Humbrol liquid poly to make it less runny for jobs like this where you don't want capillary action and slower drying time. Sure Tasca does a welded hull M4 (A3 and A4), along with a cast and a hybrid. Good suggestion re' the glue too! 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Retired Bob Posted March 11, 2021 Share Posted March 11, 2021 (edited) 46 minutes ago, Jasper dog said: Sure Tasca does a welded hull M4 (A3 and A4), along with a cast and a hybrid. Taska/Asuka make an M4.A1 (cast hull/British Mk.II ), M4.A2 (British Mk.III), M4.A3 (76mm & Jumbo) & M4.A4 (British Mk.V & Firefly Vc) They also then made the M4 Hybrid (Firefly 1c/hybrid) But not the early M4 75mm welded which was the most numerous tank in allied service on D-Day. If they made an early M4 early welded hull they can make 2 new kits with the turrets and running gear they already make. M4 75mm early M4 early Firefly 1c (confusingly both the M4 early and the M4 hybrid with the 17 pounder were called Firefly 1c) Dragon did both of these kits, which I have, but they are not available (along with a lot of Dragon kits) Perhaps I should get a job at Asuka or Tamiya and get them organised ......bugger, I don't speak Japanese, perhaps if I shouted...loudly they would get the point. Edited March 11, 2021 by Retired Bob add notation 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jasper dog Posted March 11, 2021 Author Share Posted March 11, 2021 1 hour ago, Retired Bob said: Taska/Asuka make an M4.A1 (cast hull/British Mk.II ), M4.A2 (British Mk.III), M4.A3 (76mm & Jumbo) & M4.A4 (British Mk.V & Firefly Vc) They also then made the M4 Hybrid (Firefly 1c/hybrid) But not the early M4 75mm welded which was the most numerous tank in allied service on D-Day. If they made an early M4 early welded hull they can make 2 new kits with the turrets and running gear they already make. M4 75mm early M4 early Firefly 1c (confusingly both the M4 early and the M4 hybrid with the 17 pounder were called Firefly 1c) Dragon did both of these kits, which I have, but they are not available (along with a lot of Dragon kits) Perhaps I should get a job at Asuka or Tamiya and get them organised ......bugger, I don't speak Japanese, perhaps if I shouted...loudly they would get the point. So many choices but some folk are never satisfied! You have the same approach to foreigners and the language "barrier" as I do! Needed to adopt the tactic the first time I met the In-laws......they're from Glasgow.😉 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Retired Bob Posted March 11, 2021 Share Posted March 11, 2021 21 minutes ago, Jasper dog said: So many choices but some folk are never satisfied! Darryl, you know how it is, If they made EVERY Sherman bar one, that would be the one you wanted. 27 minutes ago, Jasper dog said: You have the same approach to foreigners and the language "barrier" as I do! It's always worked for me. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jasper dog Posted March 13, 2021 Author Share Posted March 13, 2021 Hull, turret and ancillaries primed! And pre shaded... Not really a lot to be gained by extensive, pre shading or base coat modulation as the panzer grey will be covered by something...🤔 However a quick once over with three shades of AK panzer grey going from dark to light: The last pic looks a little lighter than it actually is due to being right under a lamp, my excuse and I'm sticking to it! Just as well I'm having the turret hatches open as they dont want to fit closed without a bit shaved from the edge. Now, do I go Russian front with a winter whitewash or North Africa with an over spray of RAL 8020?? Heres another peculiarity, the RFM paint guide is done courtesy of Mig AMMO, however, irritating, they give no info on each vehicle (4 options, if interested)...or even theatre.😠 And they don't appear to even give the box top version as an offering...(might have just missed a note somewhere about it but I can't see it anywhere!). Now I'm sure we could find the relevant info out for ourselves but... Anyhow, atb Darryl 12 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Robert Stuart Posted March 13, 2021 Share Posted March 13, 2021 Good progress Darryl I know it is only temporary, but that turret pillar looks really odd. (Note to self - I really must get some sponge for spraying open hatches & cockpits) 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
f matthews Posted March 13, 2021 Share Posted March 13, 2021 Looking really good. I have this kit on my radar, but just so much cool stuff out there at the moment! 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PlaStix Posted March 13, 2021 Share Posted March 13, 2021 Hi Darryl. Wow!! That's looking very sharp! Nicely done with the pre-shading. This is going to look awesome! Kind regards, Stix 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
f matthews Posted March 13, 2021 Share Posted March 13, 2021 Looking really good. I have this kit on my radar, but just so much cool stuff out there at the moment! 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hewy Posted March 13, 2021 Share Posted March 13, 2021 I like it darryl, well painted, as you said plenty of scope for weathering👍 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jasper dog Posted March 14, 2021 Author Share Posted March 14, 2021 17 hours ago, Robert Stuart said: Good progress Darryl I know it is only temporary, but that turret pillar looks really odd. (Note to self - I really must get some sponge for spraying open hatches & cockpits) Thanks Robert, the foam/ bits of torn up sponge packing are really handy, so much easier than damp tissue or bits of card cut to shape. Perhaps the "pillar" is something Gerry should have considered, hull down and the turret pops up to take the shot... 16 hours ago, f matthews said: Looking really good. I have this kit on my radar, but just so much cool stuff out there at the moment! Thanks, really appreciated.👍 You aren't wrong, it's a great time at the moment for armour modelling, almost too much choice....😁 16 hours ago, PlaStix said: Hi Darryl. Wow!! That's looking very sharp! Nicely done with the pre-shading. This is going to look awesome! Kind regards, Stix Thanks Stix, too kind but appreciate the encouragement! 👍 13 hours ago, Hewy said: I like it darryl, well painted, as you said plenty of scope for weathering👍 Thanks Hewy, really appreciated. 👍 Really going to have to decide where I'm going with it! Looking for some good and appealing reference pics...I'm not a rivet counter by any means but I'd sooner make something at least vaguely accurate if possible. Thanks again chaps, appreciate the feedback! Atb 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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