hendie Posted March 29, 2021 Author Share Posted March 29, 2021 5 hours ago, giemme said: Impressive! Almost ready for paint, right? Ciao Almost Giorgio, almost. 5 hours ago, Heather Kay said: This is very impressive work indeed. One question, though, for an inquiring mind. Is there a reason for not printing the engine in one piece, or at least cylinders with the detail pipework in situ? Personal preference Heather. It would be possible to build the entire engine in one model, but adding supports would be a nightmare. It's kinda difficult to explain unless you've seen it done but you need to make sure there are no "islands" as the model is being printed and you need to get supports to all the overhanging features. If I remember I'll try and post a shot showing what I mean later. and as BIll noted below, it also makes it a lot easier to paint. For example, I considered combining the engine cylinder with the Y branch, but figured it would be a lot easier to paint them separately 5 hours ago, perdu said: Give the modelmaker something to do apart from just painting? Isn't this stuff fabulous huh? That was the primary driver Bill. where's the fun in just printing an entire finished model? 4 hours ago, Heather Kay said: I suppose there is that. Something, something, the journey, something. It is amazing stuff, ‘tis true. I don’t have the nous for it any more, but if I was 20 years younger I’d be all over it. got to keep things interesting Heather 11 minutes ago, Brandy said: That print looks pretty good to put it mildly. How do you get multiple pieces on a shared base? Ian Easy Ian. once you have added supports to the model, just click out of adding supports mode, click on the piece and drag it to wherever you want. I find it easier for handling later if I group a bunch of small items together - less chance of losing them during the wash and later handling 1 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Heather Kay Posted March 29, 2021 Share Posted March 29, 2021 3 minutes ago, hendie said: adding supports would be a nightmare No, that makes a lot of sense. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheBaron Posted March 29, 2021 Share Posted March 29, 2021 What a wonderful set of updates to come back to Alan. Dazzling in those rolling levels of detail. Tilt of the bowler at such debonair CAD meistering; I can appreciate just how accomplished the level of skill that your modesty conceals. 👏 Loved the light sabre bore sight method of ensuring that the bang bang didn't become a damn and blast occasion - had to do something similar on the Vixen to ensure that the engines lined up with the intakes and exhausts... 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AdrianMF Posted March 29, 2021 Share Posted March 29, 2021 Looks fab! I feel like one of the apes in 2001!... Regards, Adrian 1 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
perdu Posted March 30, 2021 Share Posted March 30, 2021 13 hours ago, AdrianMF said: I feel like one of the apes in 2001!... Ditto. 1 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hendie Posted April 5, 2021 Author Share Posted April 5, 2021 On 3/29/2021 at 9:01 AM, Heather Kay said: No, that makes a lot of sense. phew... I got away with it. On 3/29/2021 at 6:20 PM, TheBaron said: What a wonderful set of updates to come back to Alan. Dazzling in those rolling levels of detail. Tilt of the bowler at such debonair CAD meistering; I can appreciate just how accomplished the level of skill that your modesty conceals. 👏 Loved the light sabre bore sight method of ensuring that the bang bang didn't become a damn and blast occasion - had to do something similar on the Vixen to ensure that the engines lined up with the intakes and exhausts... always handy, those light sabre things On 3/29/2021 at 7:24 PM, AdrianMF said: Looks fab! I feel like one of the apes in 2001!... Regards, Adrian one step ahead of me on the evolutionary ladder then Adrian, I'm just a CAD monkey On 3/30/2021 at 8:29 AM, perdu said: Ditto. sheesh. I'm getting lower down the food chain with every post. Salutations mes amis. Life has been a right booger these last few days, weeks, months. I've been looking after a sickly feline these last few weeks. Poor little blighter had to undergo a tadger-ectomy due to recurring blockages in his urinary tract. He's well on the mend though but taking a good bit of looking after. Then the daughters car died this last Friday, followed by our furnace (air con to you UK folks) packing in on Saturday morning. Luckily iy hasn't been too cold these last few days, and at least it got us through winter before deciding to go mammaries up. Life eh? But what's been happening in Wapiti-land is the question on everyone's lips (if you've all been exceedingly bored over the last few weeks). Well, a LOT of refining the model, and another few test prints, followed by more refining, and another test print running as I type. I had hoped to assemble the Jupiter VI but when I started this weekend it became apparent that there was a small issue. In CAD everything lined up perfectly, but translating that to resin in the printed form, inevitably there were a few dimensions that needed tweaked. Nothing major, just a bit of a pain as it meant I couldn't get the engine assembled, which I was looking forward to. Instead, I contented myself with keeping Giorgio happy and throwing some paint on various bits and pieces. After last episodes failed rear floor and few tweaks were made and the structure reprinted. Then the rear floor was given a coat of almost shiny black, and some vaguely wood colored paint, and a slap of leather on the gunners seat From another angle After that dried, some oils were used to try and convince me it looked like wood. Oils are still wet in this shot. Once they've dried I'll give the whole piece some pastel weathering and a flat coat to seal it. The big question is - will it fit? Can you feel the tension building? Well, whaddya know? It slots perfectly into the rear fuselage. ... though you're never going to see a whole lot in there. Jupiter cylinders were given a coat of semi gloss black. I tried picking out certain features in other colors, such as the manifold connections etc. but my detail painting at this level just isn't up to it, and I think they look a lot better just plain black. Once the exhausts are connected, that'll add some variation to the monotony. I'm really pleased with how the detail turned out on those though. Here's where it all gets a bit hairy. Hours of my life have been spent trying to obtain a photo of the interior of a Wapiti, and this is the best I could find. iirc this may even be a Wallace. However, Wallace or not, I reckon the differences between the Wapiti and the Wallace would have been minimal. What is key here (to me anyway) is that the instrument panel is aluminium, and the rest of the interior is very light - so I am assuming that the side panels may be missing in this shot. That aside, I'm going with an unpainted aluminium interior as I can't find anything to tell me otherwise. So, aluminium on the rear bulkhead with the seat adjuster bracket picked out in black Seat pan and cushion added, with a little piece of brass rod for the adjuster arm. I'll drop some PVA on the end of that arm to form a nice little ball later The cockpit port side panel painted up as per spec. There's a bit of warping going on here, but it's still flexible enough to flatten out in place. I may paint the next one while it's still not fully cured then glue it in place before curing Again, this slots very nicely into place. Another bonus was to find that the bulkhead still fits when all the other gubbinses are added - even though I can't get a decent shot of it all in place the three oxygen bottles were glued to the carrier frame (had to adjust the shot before you could actually see anything wot with it being black on black and all that same bit from t'other side. I may get crazy and try to add some piping on that later. A couple of lower wing center sections. The one at top is after I made some tweaks based on some mea culpa's earlier. It's essentially the same as the lower one, but there are two supports leading to the control stick mounting bracket. Those are actually printing supports but I liked them so left them on, and painted them up. I did consider a wood colored floor but since the floor area is way below the pilot and he'd never be able to stand on it anyway, I reckoned it would be left natural aluminium (again) add in some rudder pedals with some terrible dry brushing... then throw in the oxygen bottle assembly and it all starts to get a bit busy down there. but it still fits! Aluminium paint for the instrument panel, then completely forgot to take some shots of it when painted up - which is maybe just as well , as with no heating downstairs, it was a tad cold and after a while my hands started to shake even more than usual This is the best you're going to get I'm afraid. I know it's CAD and all that, precision down to the nth degree etc. but I'm very impressed with the fit of the panel into the fuselage. If you twist and bend enough you can just catch a glimpse of it in-situ, but whether that will still be possible with wings on... who knows? Last test fit just to make sure that everything that is intended to go does go in... okay @giemme, was that enough color for you this time? One of the jobs I had been dreading was trying to create the airscrew. There's no data on it that I know of and all I have is the drawing, and a few photo's from various angles. Much to my astonishment, actually creating the airscrew was relatively straightforward. The basic shape that was. It took a little more time to refine it until I ended up with this. It matches up to the drawing pretty much spot on though there are only two views. From a plan front view, it matches the drawing exactly. However, when looking at photos of the real airscrew it didn't appear correct. The big issue is where the blades converge on the hub. In one view on the drawing, the blades neck in slightly (as shown here), but I don't see that in photos. Hence attempt number two. The original (as per drawing) airscrew is the uppermost in the shot below. My revised version is the lower one. I prefer the second version and believe it is much closer to the 1:1 as far as I can tell. (the waviness in the model above is just my curve display settings - I set them low so my laptop doesn't grind to a halt trying to show nice rounded curves. I'm running another test print now and I've got both blades printing so I can make a decision when I have both blades in my hand and see which one feels/looks better. The Jupiter is also printing off so all things going well, I'll get to assemble that as well. now, where's that HVAC guy ? 16 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheBaron Posted April 5, 2021 Share Posted April 5, 2021 1 hour ago, hendie said: This is the best you're going to get I'm afraid. I know it's CAD and all that, precision down to the nth degree etc. but I'm very impressed with the fit of the panel into the fuselage. Given the possible problems that differential shrinkage could have caused it's always a relief isn't it? I share your pleasure in the sheer finesse of that assembly Alan. 👏 54 minutes ago, hendie said: Absolute beauties. The side profiles an art unto themselves - Benvenuto Cellini eat yer heart out. Or @giemme Take your pick. (Though Cellini wouldn't be on at you about the old colore as much though. 😁) Major steps here in quality and quantity here- can't wait to see what you'll do with an M2... ⏱️ 2 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
giemme Posted April 6, 2021 Share Posted April 6, 2021 12 hours ago, hendie said: okay @giemme, was that enough color for you this time? Ooo, plenty actually! (You should admit that it was a nice diversion to all that 3D nerve-wrecking stuff, wasn't it? ) Utterly brilliant interiors painting job! 11 hours ago, TheBaron said: Absolute beauties. The side profiles an art unto themselves - Benvenuto Cellini eat yer heart out. Or @giemme Take your pick. (Though Cellini wouldn't be on at you about the old colore as much though. 😁) I say! Just trying to motivate Alan here... Ciao 4 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Red Rat Posted April 6, 2021 Share Posted April 6, 2021 Thanks for the insight into this brave new world of modelling, Hendie. While I find it fascinating, I keep telling myself that I don't have the time to take up what is effectively a complete new hobby so I'll have to live vicariously through your efforts. Must. Resist! Must. Resist! I wonder if anybody from Airfix is waiting for your 3D model to be finished and tested before showing up with a barrow-load of cash for the use of it? Dave (still resisting!) 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hendie Posted April 7, 2021 Author Share Posted April 7, 2021 On 4/5/2021 at 4:03 PM, TheBaron said: Given the possible problems that differential shrinkage could have caused it's always a relief isn't it? I share your pleasure in the sheer finesse of that assembly Alan. 👏 Absolute beauties. The side profiles an art unto themselves - Benvenuto Cellini eat yer heart out. Major steps here in quality and quantity here- can't wait to see what you'll do with an M2... ⏱️ Thanks Tony. The differential shrinkage is rearing its ugly head but thankfully without too much impact. The biggest issue I'm facing is around the engine cylinders, the inlets/exhausts and the collector ring. Given that there are 20 separate components and around 40 individual connection points I am surprised its going so well. On 4/6/2021 at 3:20 AM, giemme said: Ooo, plenty actually! (You should admit that it was a nice diversion to all that 3D nerve-wrecking stuff, wasn't it? ) Utterly brilliant interiors painting job! I say! Just trying to motivate Alan here... Ciao The digital manipulation can be frustrating, but the nerve wracking is assembling the final output Giorgio On 4/6/2021 at 7:14 PM, Red Rat said: Thanks for the insight into this brave new world of modelling, Hendie. While I find it fascinating, I keep telling myself that I don't have the time to take up what is effectively a complete new hobby so I'll have to live vicariously through your efforts. Must. Resist! Must. Resist! I wonder if anybody from Airfix is waiting for your 3D model to be finished and tested before showing up with a barrow-load of cash for the use of it? Dave (still resisting!) Thanks Dave. Resistance is futile as we all know. Airfix? ha! Now AMG I would consider. I've been telling myself for the last few weeks that I really must get back on with the Vampire. Sadly, I'm not listening. The Vampire intakes are such a mess and there's so much involved in trying to get the darned things looking correct, I've just plain been avoiding the whole shenanigans. My distraction is the Wapiti. I fell I'm almost across the finish line, at least from a digital modeling perspective. There's a few minor bits and pieces to tweak/finalize, but all the heavy lifting is done. Following the weekends little painting session I thought it may be a good diversion to do some of the actual assembly and see how it all goes together. The three main components here are the front fuselage, rear fuselage, and lower wing center section. As I'm just testing things out here I just used drops of cyano to hang things together. Good news from a printing perspective is that I managed to get the holes all the way down the undercarriage legs. Even though I thickened the legs up a tad, the material is still so thin that you can see the brass rod through the resin. I did have one little area at the bottom of one leg that didn't print properly - that may have been down to the FEP film as it's getting a bit battered with all the printing that's been going on recently. But the point of this was to see how it all goes together. Look! She's standing on her own two legs. Despite my earlier forebodings about the skinny malinky legs not being able to support the finished article, having now added the undercarriage (and brass rod), it feels a lot more secure and much stronger than I had envisaged. In the shot below, there's the two 0.85mm diameter brass rods going the full length of the undercarriage leg and about 10mm of length going into the fuselage. There's a horizontal 0.85mm axle between the hubs that will get covered in a resin spar, and there's a small 0.5mm brass rod going through the upper forward end of the undercarriage legs - that particular rod will eventually provide support for the exhaust brackets That was quite a satisfying little diversion. I'm definitely feeling a whole lot better about the ability of the aircraft to support it's own weight now without deforming the undercarriage legs. I'm going to leave this one assembled and will probably stick some more weight on it just to see how it behaves over time. In my last post I bemoaned (or think I did) the fact that I couldn't get the Jupiter assembled for whatever reason. Well, all the bits were ready now and it was time to see how that was going to go together. Was it going to put up a fight? It started off without too much hassle. The cylinders fell into place - a bit too easily if I'm honest. As Tony pointed out above, with this 3D printing malarkey, not only do we have differential shrinkage to consider, but also printing orientation, and overall sizes. For example, thick parts shrink differently from thin parts, long vs short etc. However the one problem I always find ehrrr... problematic, is printing orientation. Due to the printing process (vertically in slices), obtaining a truly flat surface can be a bit of an issue due to residual resin lying on flat surfaces and partially curing from light bleed and just generally getting in the way of things. For that reason, if I need a flat surface I always try to orient the part with the flat surface pointing downwards. Inevitable there are instances where that is not possible, such was the case with the engine cylinders. I wanted the flatness at the bottom of the cylinder for mounting purposes, but I also wanted the fine detail at the top of the cylinder as that is the part that stares you in the face when it's all assembled. In this case, the fine detail won and I had to put up with a less than optimal mounting surface on the cylinders. Overall it wasn't too bad, but I had three or four supports connecting to the mounting surface which had to be trimmed back with a sharp blade. It was perfect by any means but it was a workable solution. I got this far before remembering to take a photo. The intakes at the rear of the cylinders put up somewhat more of a fight. I had to take a few file swipes at each one in order for it to go into it's home location. I found the best method for assembly was to dry fit/file parts, and once I was happy that both the cylinder and the intake would slot home, I put a drop on each of the intake mounting points, and glued the intake and cylinder together. Before the cyano fully cured, I then fitted the sub assembly into the engine casing. Yes, it would be a whole lot easier just to print the whole darned thing, but where's the fun in that? Tedious work, and fiddly, but not overly challenging. The challenging part was adding the pushrods. I had some 0.2mm stainless wire lying around and it was put to good use here. I had to drill most of the holes in the cylinder heads before I could insert the wire. (some holes printed successfully, some not) Eyes front! Now came the biggest challenge and I was a bit apprehensive about this part. Consider that we have 20 separate components (ignoring the push rods), and over 3 dozen connection points... then take into account that flat surface that I mentioned earlier. The flatness of the cylinder mounting ledge affects the overall height of the collector ring mounting points from the engine casing center. Does that make sense? Now do that 9 times. Now for the collector ring. All the connection points are on a fixed diameter. If one cylinder is too high, or two low, then the collector ring is not going to fit. Guess what? I don't know how, but it fitted. Okay, not absolutely perfect, but close enough that I am not going to make any dimensional changes to any of the parts. I had to press a bit harder than I'd have liked in a couple of areas, but everything went home as intended. I even remembered to place the exhaust outlets at the bottom of the engine casing (it's keyed to fit into the fuselage, so if you glue the collector ring out of the correct rotation, the exhausts ain't gonna fit later. I wish I could paint exhausts more convincingly. I'll try some pastel weathering on that later to see if I can make it look any better. Might need to take a few lessons from @giemme here. Gratuitous show just because I was feeling rather smug at this point Even smugger now... But we're not finished just yet, oh no we're not. I was also having palpitations about that airscrew and how it was going to turn out given the lack of information and my limited CAD skills. Off to a good start here - I printed both versions to see which looked better and they both printed without issue. Now warping... that's always a potential issue and sometimes it's difficult to prevent so I took no chances here. Once the parts were IPA rinsed, I clamped the parts to a small aluminum channel I had lying around. I left this for at least two days to allow the resin to fully dry out (not bothering about cure at this point). I find that there is a definite difference in 'feel' of the parts a day or two after they've come out of the IPA rinse, so wanted to make sure I had eliminated as much residual moisture as I could. After I could feel the difference in tactility I took the parts (still clamped) and laid them on a window cill where they got some daylight. Not direct sunlight - I didn't want them subject to heat while curing, but enough daylight to get the post cure to kick off and I left them there for an afternoon. Clamps removed - and everything is still flat. By preventing one issue (warping) I now provide myself with another challenge - removing the airscrew from the now cured base block without damaging the part. It would have been very easy to remove the supports prior to curing when the part is still flexible, but then I would not have had any decent way of clamping the airscrew to keep it flat whilst curing. So, very, very carefully, I cut through all the supports with a razor saw as best I could. Some of them still broke free at the connection with the airscrew but it looks like I got away with it this time. I have a 1mm brass rod glued into the back face of the airscrew. I designed in a 2mm diameter hole in the engine casing in which I placed some 2mm (obviously!) brass tube. The Airscrew can now be slid nicely into the engine casing. I should have taken more photos but got carried away in the heat of the moment. The brass rod/brass tube mounting method means that you can fit a small boss at the back end of the 1mm rod, to keep it locked into the engine casing, but the airscrew is still free to rotate. You'll be pleased to hear that we are finally coming to the end at last. The exhaust is just dry fitted at the mo' but you can see how that brass rod I mentioned earlier is going to come in useful as a mounting point for the exhaust bracket It will be a delicate operation to make and actually fix that bracket to the rod and exhaust but that's how it is on the 1:1 and it'll be a nice detail touch. There. Done. I'm all Wapiti'd out now. 21 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
perdu Posted April 8, 2021 Share Posted April 8, 2021 'B'word brilliant Alan, I have a well ghasted flabber that is going to have to pop back to bed for a recuperate. Did I say brilliant? The engine looks capable of busting into life at any moment, all this stuff is amazing. W O W . . . 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheBaron Posted April 8, 2021 Share Posted April 8, 2021 That engine assembly is pure state of the art as far as resin printing Alan - just sheer class. As you say, apart from the Scylla and Charybdis of shrinkage and warping, it's a constant juggling act between orienting and supporting for a successful print whilst causing least damage to detail. There's even an entire town in Russia that worships the God of Successful Orientation: I completely agree with: 12 hours ago, hendie said: there is a definite difference in 'feel' of the parts a day or two after they've come out of the IPA rinse - in so far as there's a definite difference in how a part is when fresh out of the wash/cure cycle in the Mercury and how it subsequently feels a few days later, when it feels dryer and harder (if that makes sense?). It always seems to me as if the shape is 'tightening up'. Great idea on clamping the prop during curing, duly filed for reference. 4 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brandy Posted April 8, 2021 Share Posted April 8, 2021 Stunning results once more Alan. That engine really is the mutt's bits! Good plan to clamp the prop too, they definitely look wrong when warped! Ian 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
giemme Posted April 9, 2021 Share Posted April 9, 2021 Alright, I eventually had some time to catch up with this - WOW! It's all shaping up beautifully, but the engine and the propeller are two real gems - the engine assembly being a model in itself! On 08/04/2021 at 01:51, hendie said: Might need to take a few lessons from @giemme here. I'd be happy to help - you can pay me in resin printed parts upon request, of which you should also provide the 3D job Kidding aside, I prefer to have a much shinier metallic base for the exhausts; I use Model Master Metallizers, the buffing version, for that. And a small sponge dipped into Lifecolor acrylics for the worn out/burned out effects, plus some drybrush on selected edges with a very light grey. And a black tempera wash. It's actually quite fun playing with all these methods at various stages and, besides the curing time for the metallic coat, you can alternate them in rapid succession. Ciao 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CedB Posted April 10, 2021 Share Posted April 10, 2021 Stunning internals hendie and oh, that engine and prop! Amazing stuff 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
perdu Posted April 10, 2021 Share Posted April 10, 2021 1 hour ago, CedB said: Stunning internals hendie and oh, that engine and prop! Amazing stuff NOW we know Ced is going cad-cam. Alan this is amazing, a bit like @TheBaronmaking his Avons with three stage compressors just so we can see the blades at different positions each time we look inside a Sea Vixen intake duct Kidding Tony, I am already gobsmacked with the Foxy girls You guys have changed this game fundamentally And I do mean fundamentally... 1 6 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AdrianMF Posted April 10, 2021 Share Posted April 10, 2021 On 08/04/2021 at 00:51, hendie said: I had to take a few file swipes at each one in order for it to go into it's home location. That’s terrible! I’ve never had to do that with a regular kit... Great stuff. I agree with Bill (without the bold emphasis). Regards, Adrian 4 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete in Lincs Posted April 10, 2021 Share Posted April 10, 2021 Epic update! Huge progress and all of it impressive as wossname. It'll be ready for a zoom around the basement any time now. Have you looked into printing parts to repair the furnace yet? 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ex-FAAWAFU Posted April 10, 2021 Share Posted April 10, 2021 Brilliant; what a (series of) result(s). 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hendie Posted May 15, 2021 Author Share Posted May 15, 2021 On 4/8/2021 at 3:30 AM, perdu said: 'B'word brilliant Alan, I have a well ghasted flabber that is going to have to pop back to bed for a recuperate. Did I say brilliant? The engine looks capable of busting into life at any moment, all this stuff is amazing. W O W . . . many thanks Bill though this owes a lot more to technology than my skills On 4/8/2021 at 8:50 AM, TheBaron said: That engine assembly is pure state of the art as far as resin printing Alan - just sheer class. As you say, apart from the Scylla and Charybdis of shrinkage and warping, it's a constant juggling act between orienting and supporting for a successful print whilst causing least damage to detail. There's even an entire town in Russia that worships the God of Successful Orientation:I completely agree with: - in so far as there's a definite difference in how a part is when fresh out of the wash/cure cycle in the Mercury and how it subsequently feels a few days later, when it feels dryer and harder (if that makes sense?). It always seems to me as if the shape is 'tightening up'. Great idea on clamping the prop during curing, duly filed for reference. Thanks Tony. The clamping appears to have worked for most parts. The biggest issue I am facing at the moment is that I can't get a decent print of the upper wing center section. No matter how I orient it for printing, it comes out with some degree of warp. I'm going to have to try and engage a few brain cells to sort this one out On 4/8/2021 at 10:08 AM, Brandy said: Stunning results once more Alan. That engine really is the mutt's bits! Good plan to clamp the prop too, they definitely look wrong when warped! Ian it would certainly make it more interesting for the driver though On 4/9/2021 at 3:59 AM, giemme said: Alright, I eventually had some time to catch up with this - WOW! It's all shaping up beautifully, but the engine and the propeller are two real gems - the engine assembly being a model in itself! I'd be happy to help - you can pay me in resin printed parts upon request, of which you should also provide the 3D job Kidding aside, I prefer to have a much shinier metallic base for the exhausts; I use Model Master Metallizers, the buffing version, for that. And a small sponge dipped into Lifecolor acrylics for the worn out/burned out effects, plus some drybrush on selected edges with a very light grey. And a black tempera wash. It's actually quite fun playing with all these methods at various stages and, besides the curing time for the metallic coat, you can alternate them in rapid succession. Ciao I've got another engine out of the vat so I shall follow your lead on this Giorgio - thanks On 4/10/2021 at 12:29 AM, CedB said: Stunning internals hendie and oh, that engine and prop! Amazing stuff thanks Ced - when's your printer arriving? On 4/10/2021 at 2:22 AM, perdu said: NOW we know Ced is going cad-cam. Alan this is amazing, a bit like @TheBaronmaking his Avons with three stage compressors just so we can see the blades at different positions each time we look inside a Sea Vixen intake duct Kidding Tony, I am already gobsmacked with the Foxy girls You guys have changed this game fundamentally And I do mean fundamentally... technology can be wonderful at times. ('cept when IT get their hands on it of course) On 4/10/2021 at 2:42 AM, AdrianMF said: That’s terrible! I’ve never had to do that with a regular kit... Great stuff. I agree with Bill (without the bold emphasis). Regards, Adrian thanks Adrian On 4/10/2021 at 3:28 AM, Pete in Lincs said: Epic update! Huge progress and all of it impressive as wossname. It'll be ready for a zoom around the basement any time now. Have you looked into printing parts to repair the furnace yet? it probably won't be long before metal printers are cheap enough for home use. Kind of makes you want to be young again so you're around when all this technology is freely available and affordable On 4/10/2021 at 6:21 AM, Ex-FAAWAFU said: Brilliant; what a (series of) result(s). Thanks Crisp. I'm looking forward to seeing you make a start on that rotor head! As mentioned earlier, I am having an issue obtaining a decent print of the upper wing center section. Everything else is successful, but that center section doesn't want to play nice at all. Here's a shot of the center section mated up to the outer wing section - I hit the wing edge with a black sharpie so it can be seen easier. The offending wing section dips down too far at the front, and humps up in the middle. A bit of a pain, but I'll get it sorted out one way or the other. There's no way this could be sanded out or blended in. I think it's a print orientation issue, but I want to go back and check all my 3D models again just to make sure there's nothing wacky going on there either. The lower wing does not exhibit the same warp issue as can be seen here (on an old test piece) I have pretty much finished with all the test prints, and over the last few weeks I have been running off parts "officially" for assembly. For the most part the only difference there is that I have printed using a smaller layer height to improve or enhance some of the detail. The most delicate job was removing the rear fuselage from the block - even with a razor saw it's easy to stray from the straight and narrow, and the quality of the cut here has a direct impact on the quality of the fuselage join. If I haven't mention it before, I chose to mount the rear fuselage on this block as the actual join surface would have facing towards the build plate during printing, and due to the physics of the process, it's nigh on impossible to get a perfectly flat surface on that particular plane. Any other plane is no problem, hence the block to get around the issue. The operation was a success! I doubt I'll ever get a better seam than that. I just hope I don't muck it up when it does come to attaching the two fuselage halves. Most of this you will have seen before so if I repeat myself... tough! Oxygen bottles and valve Followed by rudder pedals and a couple of oxygen lines which will be physically impossible for anyone to ever see. Oh, I have also gone for a dull aluminum finish inside the fuselage this time. I figured shiny aluminum would be okay on the outer skin, but inside is never going to get polished up or cleaned and we all know how dirty those aircrew characters are cockpit panels. Dull aluminum, gloss black, and wood. I'll apply oils to enhance the wood finish once the paint has cured Inside of the rear fuselage got a coat of thinned red oxide applied very roughly. I may add a very thinned cream/off white later to try and capture that doped look. Pilots armchair. I had applied shiny aluminum and assembled this before I decided to change to the dull aluminum. I'll have a go at fixing that later. The seat adjuster was a small length of brass rod and some PVA glue balled on the end, then painted yellow One of the late in the day changes I made to the rear fuselage was to add a cut out and window for the camera. I figured a camera wouldn't be of much use if they couldn't see through the floor I'm off on my travels again next week so this will be the last update for a week or more. Hopefully my next update on this won't take as long. I enjoyed getting back into this weekend after all the hassles with that Vampire - but I am also getting siren called by the Whirlwind so who knows what's going to happen 16 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CedB Posted May 15, 2021 Share Posted May 15, 2021 More amazing work hendie and I'm sure you'll get that annoying wing join sorted 32 minutes ago, hendie said: …dips down too far at the front, and humps up in the middle. 32 minutes ago, hendie said: …just to make sure there's nothing wacky going on there either. Ah, that sort of weekend is it? Fnaar! 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete in Lincs Posted May 16, 2021 Share Posted May 16, 2021 I'd forgotten about the poor old Wappity. Nice resurrection. You're a Prince Prints among men. And, @CedB beat me to it with a Fnaar! Travel Safely, Alan. Pete 4 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brandy Posted May 16, 2021 Share Posted May 16, 2021 That warping must be annoying, but the rest is spot on. It's looking great with a bit of paint on! Ian 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
giemme Posted May 17, 2021 Share Posted May 17, 2021 Wow, that was quite a catch up! Impressive! And very effective paint job on the interiors Ciao 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fritag Posted May 17, 2021 Share Posted May 17, 2021 The nerve of the man in simultaneously presenting us with cutting edge digital/3D printing here; and pushing the edge of the envelope traditional modelling on the Whirlwind over there. Honestly! 2 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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