1:32 Ju EF-126

[shortCummins]

33 minutes ago, SafetyDad said:

That's great work there John - neat, tidy and thoughtful. I'm enjoying watching you bring this lovely little model along, and am appreciating your tips and ideas.

SD

 

many thanks SafetyDad

I'm enjoying the build immensely, I hope Das Werk make a reasonable return on this kit and that they're encouraged to make more aircraft kits, with the unfortunate demise of Wingnut Wings we need another manufacturer brave enough to produce some "unusual" topics.

This kit gives you the ability to build one of three different aircraft types plus a variety of "settings", factory cradle or take off/taxi trolley, landing skid extended or closed, you could easily make half a dozen or more different builds, really good stuff and should be encouraged.

 

best rgds

John(shortCummins)

[shortCummins]

 

The seat cushion was painted XF-49 khaki.

 

After a coat of aqua flat some oils were used to add a "used lived-in" look to the cushion.

Abteilung ABT002 sepia before blending…

ABT240 cream brown used as a ‘highlight’

 

I knocked the cushion off its toothpick so here it is press fitted to the seat.

 

Once the sprue-goo on the back of the headrest had fully cured it was then re-sprayed with XF-24.

[

 

The headrest ‘proper’ was painted XF-64 red brown…

 

…and the ‘lip’ of the headrest was highlighted with a graphite pencil

 

The headrest and cushion were fixed to the seat…

 

…as was the “stall warning”? decal, not sure why any placard would be fixed to the seat but the instructions call for it, so…

 

Then the sepia oil wash was added to the rivets.

 

This is what it looks like balanced in the cockpit…

 

 

Next I’ll be assembling the HGW seat belts and adding all of the bits’n’bobs to the cockpit before closing the fuselage halves.

 

until next time

as always, any suggestions, criticisms or comments will be gratefully received.

rgds

John(shortCummins)

[shortCummins]

 

Once I’d assembled the HGW ‘fabric’ seat harness, quite fiddly, they were super-glued to the seat.

 

Previously I’d added aqua gloss onto the dials to simulate glass however it didn’t really work, the recesses are too deep, so I added some crystal clear.

 

In order to fix the instrument panel to the top of the fuselage I removed the little pieces of masking tape to allow the glue to work properly.

 

Foot pedals, levers and control stick were added…

 

…and then the fuselage halves were joined.

 

I’ll add the seat and gun sight later in the build, after most of the paint, as I want to have the canopy open and so I’ll need to paint both the inside and out of the framing.

 

 

Next I’ll be assembling the wings.

 

until next time

as always, any suggestions, criticisms or comments will be gratefully received.

rgds

John(shortCummins)

[shortCummins]

 

I’d put together the factory cradle to act as a stand/support for the fuselage, I may paint this at a later stage.

 

The rear fuselage halves were joined together, at this point you can decide between single or duel Argos engines.

 

I’ve opted for duel engines.

 

Just a small point, the instructions for the duel engine version step 9 (engine pylons) have parts A12 & A13 transposed, not a big deal but something to be aware of.

 

The rear fuselage half was then attached to the front fuselage.

 

 

 

Next the I’ll assemble the wings.

 

until next time

as always, any suggestions, criticisms or comments will be gratefully received.

rgds

John(shortCummins)

[shortCummins]

 

I managed to break the pitot tube on the leading edge, I’d have probably replaced it anyway?, still I’d have preferred to have this as a separate part as its a little too delicate and would surely be broken or bent by most modellers during the build and/or paint process?

 

Apart from that the fit is excellent, this area has a stepped feature and I “slid” it in and the two halves just appeared to ‘click’.

 

A word or two of praise is due to the way that Das Werk has engineered the sprue gates and their attachment to the moulded parts.

Their attached to the ‘rear’ of the part…

…allowing easy clean-up

…that doesn’t mark the ‘front’ of the piece

…this allows both halves to fit almost seamlessly together.

 

Here I’ve dry-fitted the wings, rear and horizontal stabilisers.

 

 

 

Next I’ll be putting together the Argus engines.

 

until next time

as always, any suggestions, criticisms or comments will be gratefully received.

rgds

John(shortCummins)

[HOUSTON]

John,

IMPRESSIVE  work  so far.

 

EXEMPLARY  work indeed.

Keep it Coming.

      

[SafetyDad]

Very very nice indeed.

 

Your little tutorial on painting the seat is great - that turned out really well!

 

 

SD

[shortCummins]

5 hours ago, SafetyDad said:

Very very nice indeed.

 

Your little tutorial on painting the seat is great - that turned out really well!

 

 

SD

thanks SD

the main reason for writing these build logs is as much a reminder for me how I did "stuff" as to help others with ideas and how to fix things when they don't go quite as hoped. Thank you for kind comments, there much appreciated.

 

best rgds

John(shortCummins)

[shortCummins]

 

Before fixing the halves of the Argos engines together I gave the ‘inside’ a coat of UMP/Stynylrez black primer and then a coat of vallejo metal color 77.723 exhaust manifold.

I’m not sure how far down these you’ll be able to see but I’m a little disappointed that they’ll be “empty”. In truth I’ve absolutely no idea what the “insides” of these should look like and I’ll trust Das Werk to have done their homework and that you wouldn’t be able to see anything.

 

Once the metal colour had dried the two halves were joined…

 

…and then the air intake grill/louvers attached to the front, the rear of these parts was painted black.

 

Looking down “the pipe” absolutely nothing can be seen.

 

Here’s the engines dry fitted.

 

 

Next I’ll be starting on the paint.

 

until next time

as always, any suggestions, criticisms or comments will be gratefully received.

rgds

John(shortCummins)

[Pete in Lincs]

John, it really is rocking on. Is there no stopping you?

Pulse jets were IIRC, mostly empty and I've heard them referred to as stovepipes.

 

Cheers. Pete

[shortCummins]

5 hours ago, Pete in Lincs said:

John, it really is rocking on. Is there no stopping you?

Pulse jets were IIRC, mostly empty and I've heard them referred to as stovepipes.

 

Cheers. Pete

thanks Pete

 

have I mentioned that I really really, like this kit, it's not quite a shake'n'bake but for anyone who's made more than 3 kits there's nothing overly taxing. My only "complaint", and its only because I'm trying to find fault, is that the instructions, although beautifully presented, can be a little vague with lines pointing in the general direction rather than precise positions, but then most of us are "grown ups" and don't need such explicit detail?

if you've got £40 burning a hole in your pocket and you want a big scale "different" subject then this would be the kit to get

 

rgds

John(shortCummins)

[Marklo]

13 hours ago, Pete in Lincs said:

Pulse jets were IIRC, mostly empty and I've heard them referred to as stovepipes

I think Pete’s right on that one afaik there would be a flap valve to allow the fuel in and an igniter to well, ignite it. The whole thing works on the Venturi effect pulling in fuel and simultaneously vaporising it, and then burning it to produce an airflow.  Hence the need to catapult launch V1s.

Edited February 11, 2021 by Marklo

[shortCummins]

13 hours ago, Pete in Lincs said:

John, it really is rocking on. Is there no stopping you?

Pulse jets were IIRC, mostly empty and I've heard them referred to as stovepipes.

 

Cheers. Pete

 

37 minutes ago, Marklo said:

I think Pete’s right on that one afaik there would be a flap valve to allow the fuel in and an igniter to well, ignite it. The whole thing works on the Venturi effect pulling in fuel and simultaneously vaporising it, and then burning it to produce an airflow.  Hence the need to catapult launch V1s.

thanks Chaps

 

I found this illustration...

 

that shows that basically it is just a "stovepipe" and largely empty apart from intake louvers so there's really nothing to be seen.

 

rgds

John(shortCummins)

[Pete in Lincs]

A Stuttering Athodyd? Sounds like some sort of exotic bird. Cue The Attenborough!

You learn something new everyday. Thanks for that. Pete

[Marklo]

That’s about it. It wasn’t called a pulse jet for nothing, I can’t imagine it would have been pleasant to fly. I’m imagining the worst kangarooing driver only in three dimensions.

Edited February 11, 2021 by Marklo

[shortCummins]

4 hours ago, Marklo said:

That’s about it. It wasn’t called a pulse jet for nothing, I can’t imagine it would have been pleasant to fly. I’m imagining the worst kangarooing driver only in three dimensions.

when I was first learning to drive my Dad would always warn me to be careful as he'd filled the car up with "Kangaroo petrol", must have been the same sort of thing? 🤣

 

rgds

John(shortCummins)

[shortCummins]

 

The aircraft is going to be basically two colours, aluminium and wood.

 

I’ve decided to apply the “wood” colour first and as its going to be a “very light” brown I’ve decided to give the wood areas a coat of UMP/Stynylrez white primer, the “metal” areas will have a UMP/Stynylrez black primer coat.

I didn’t bother masking the “metal” areas, access panels etc., at this time as the black will cover the lighter paint.

 

The wings are mainly made from plywood however some of the control surfaces are material. I have chosen to use two different “light browns” for each material, the wood will be covered by decals.

So for the base colour of the “wood” I’m using MRP-259 pale wood, this is the first time I’ve used MRP paints having watched a number of D o o g’s and Will Patterson’s YouTube videos I thought I’d give them a go as they really rate them.

I “mottled” the wood colour as I’m hoping that it’ll add to the impression of different wood panels along with the decals.

 

I purposefully let the pale wood overspray the edges of the control surface material to act as some pre-shading.

For the material colour I used MRP-256 doped linen, the “wood” area was masked.

 

 

 

Next the primer for the NMF areas.

 

until next time

as always, any suggestions, criticisms or comments will be gratefully received.

rgds

John(shortCummins)

[Dr Jimbo]

I’m loving this build. I’m amazed how quickly you are getting through it. It would take me 3 months to get this far. I’ve also been watching will Patterson on YouTube and he obviously has a thing for MRP. How did you get on with it?

 

James.

[bigbadbadge]

Great progress John, the seat belts are great.

Chris 

 

[shortCummins]

1 hour ago, Dr Jimbo said:

I’m loving this build. I’m amazed how quickly you are getting through it. It would take me 3 months to get this far. I’ve also been watching will Patterson on YouTube and he obviously has a thing for MRP. How did you get on with it?

 

James.

thanks James

these were the first two colours from MRP I've used and I really like them.

the good thing about them is you can use them without thinning them, very smooth finish.

when my current Tamiya or Mr Hobby paints run out, or I need new colours I'll be getting MRP whenever possible 

 

1 hour ago, bigbadbadge said:

Great progress John, the seat belts are great.

Chris 

 

thanks Chris

the seat belts are very fiddly, they took me over 2 hours, the instructions were just photos of the completed harness with numbers next to the "fabric" pieces and PE? Having said that I really like the look of them.

 

rgds

John(shortCummins)

[shortCummins]

 

Before I could apply the UMP/Stynylrez black primer the “wood” needed to be masked, doesn’t masking take a long time?

On masking the cockpit area I noticed that the back of the seat support will be visible so this is a good time to paint it?

 

The main glue point for fixing the Argos engines was masked so that future glue up should be easy.

 

Wings and horizontal stabilisers needed access panels to be painted.

 

The vertical stabilisers has various panels and fixing points will also be aluminium.

I’m assuming that the “main body” of these would have been plywood and the rudders metal, even if they weren’t I think they will look quite striking wood and metal.

 

After that the rest of the airframe, wings and “stovepipes” were given their undercoat of UMP/Stynylrez black primer.

 

This showed that some of the seams needed some work so I broke out the sprue-goo, these were almost certainly down to me, I didn't "clamp" the halves together whilst the glue dried I just held them between my fingers and I don't think I held them long enough!?

These front/side seams probably needn't have any work as they could be reasonably be separate panels?

 

 

 

After fixing the seams I’ll be starting on the NMF.

 

until next time

as always, any suggestions, criticisms or comments will be gratefully received.

rgds

John(shortCummins)

[Marklo]

Looking good so far. I

54 minutes ago, shortCummins said:

doesn’t masking take a long time?

I tend to find that the masking takes longer than the painting.

[shortCummins]

 

While I was waiting for the sprue-goo to fully cure, I leave it at least 24 hours and often longer, I started on the wings and things I first used AK Xtreme metal AK486 jet exhaust for some pre-shading.

 

To try and add some variation and interest I use different Xtreme metals for the access ports, ailerons and other bits, AK479 aluminium, AK480 dark aluminium and AK488 matte aluminium.

 

 

 

Next will be the fuselage NMF.

 

until next time

as always, any suggestions, criticisms or comments will be gratefully received.

rgds

John(shortCummins)

[shortCummins]

 

After the sprue-goo cured it was scraped and sanded flush and then another coat of black primer applied.

To get the “best” out of the (any?) metal effect paints its best to use a gloss coat for a base, for the control surfaces and access panels I wanted a “duller” effect however for the for the fuselage I want an overall “brighter” finish so I’ve used Mr Color GX2 as a base.

 

This was the first time I’ve used GX2 and I had some issues spraying it!? My first attempt was using a .2 needle, it was impossible to use the paint straight from the pot without turning the pressure up to over 3 bar, that’s over 40psi. I tried thinning with Mr levelling thinner and still could hardly get anything out of the airbrush.

So I changed the needle to a .4, lowered the air pressure back to 1.5bar, approx 20psi, thinned the paint with levelling thinner and it sprayed OK.

 

Once again I used a “different” colour as a pre-shade, in this instance I used AK484 burnt metal.

 

Light coats of Xtreme metal AK479 aluminium were used for the overall colour/effect.

 

 

 

Next I’ll be adding some variation to the airframe.

 

until next time

as always, any suggestions, criticisms or comments will be gratefully received.

rgds

John(shortCummins)

[shortCummins]

 

After a couple of coats, not sure the pre-shading was worth it, I let the aluminium coat dry overnight and then used various Xtreme metals to pick out individual panels to try and create more visual interest.

 

The gun panels and fuel caps? were painted with AK476 steel.

 

Various panels were picked out with AK480 dark aluminium.

 

AK482 duraluminiem.

 

AK478 white aluminium was applied as random patches, to give the impression of oxidisation.

 

To further the oxidisation effect AK488 matte aluminium was sprayed along the panel joints.

 

 

 

Next will be the Argos engines.

 

until next time

as always, any suggestions, criticisms or comments will be gratefully received.

rgds

John(shortCummins)