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1/72- P-47M Thunderbolt by Hobby 2000 (Revell plastic) - released


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As usual with H2K reboxings, we get Cartograf-printed decals and masking foil made by PMask.

Kit #72045 P-47M Thunderbolt '61st FS' - inc. decals for 2 marking options:
- P-47M-1-RE, s/n 44-21108, Capt. Witold A. Łanowski, 61st FS / 56th FG, Boxted, UK, 1945
- P-47M-1-RE, s/n 44-21127, Maj. Bolesław 'Mike' Gładych, 61st FS / 56th FG, Boxted, UK, 1945
72045boxr4jup.jpg

 

 

Kit #72046 P-47M Thunderbolt '62nd FS' - inc. decals for 2 marking options with female nose art:
- P-47M-1-RE, s/n 44-21199, 'Josephine My Flying Machine', Lt. Leo F. Butiste, 62nd FS / 56th FG, Boxted, UK, 1945
- P-47M-1-RE, s/n 44-21176, 'Jersey Bounce', Lt. Col. Lucian A. Dade Jr., CO of 56th FG, Boxted, UK, 1945

72046boxqpjtm.jpg

 

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6 hours ago, caughtinthemiddle said:

masking foil made by PMask

I'm a big fan of Hobby2000 and have built a number of their ex Hasegawa and Fujimi tr-issues - at the price I think they're worthwhile just for the new decals. But I do have an issue with the masks supplied. The 2 times I gave them a try they stuck too well, were tricky to remove and left residue behind which was a pain to clear up. Perhaps I left them on too long (1 week+). Its not a big deal for me as usually I don't use masks anyway, but since they were supplied I thought I'd try them ... but never again

 

Cheers

 

Colin

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6 hours ago, ckw said:

I'm a big fan of Hobby2000 and have built a number of their ex Hasegawa and Fujimi tr-issues - at the price I think they're worthwhile just for the new decals. But I do have an issue with the masks supplied. The 2 times I gave them a try they stuck too well, were tricky to remove and left residue behind which was a pain to clear up. Perhaps I left them on too long (1 week+). Its not a big deal for me as usually I don't use masks anyway, but since they were supplied I thought I'd try them ... but never again

 

Cheers

 

Colin

Try applying them over a good coat of Future. It always works for me. Admission: I haven’t tried it with Hobby 2000 masks but it has worked with other masks that posed similar problems to those you experienced with Hobby 2000.

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21 minutes ago, Trenton guy said:

Try applying them over a good coat of Future

Should have said - it was over Future. Not had any problem with any other masking material (various tapes), but these masks just didn't work for me

 

Cheers

Colin

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6 hours ago, ckw said:

I'm a big fan of Hobby2000 and have built a number of their ex Hasegawa and Fujimi tr-issues - at the price I think they're worthwhile just for the new decals. But I do have an issue with the masks supplied. The 2 times I gave them a try they stuck too well, were tricky to remove and left residue behind which was a pain to clear up. Perhaps I left them on too long (1 week+). Its not a big deal for me as usually I don't use masks anyway, but since they were supplied I thought I'd try them ... but never again

 

Cheers

 

Colin

 

Leaving masks on for a week could get you into some issues with any manufacturer's product, but yes, I prefer the "Eduard" style kabuki masks to the vinyl masks supplied in the Hobby2000 kit.  

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Yes, I'm fairly sure the length of time is the problem, which I don't have with Tamy tape or similar. Unfortunately my work flow seldom leads to quick removal as tape goes on at a fairly early stage of the build then stays until the bitter end! Less than a week would be nothing short of miraculous

 

Cheers

 

Colin

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Yes, the Revell 1/72 P-47 is quite good, just a little shortlegged (literally).

 

A Tamiya rebox (does that ever happen?) would be nice, but they only do a P-47D.

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I have to agree about the P-Masks. They are rubbish based on my inadvertent controlled trial against Eduard masks. It's not the length of time that is the problem, it is the batch of glue. I have been informed these cowboys brew up a new batch of home made glue for each batch of masks.

 

 

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I have also had negative experiences with these pmasks. Could it really be the type of glue they use varies? It's best to cut a small piece of the unused vinyl and stick it onto a spare canopy. And then see if it leaves any residue, after one hour, 24h, a week an so forth. I did this when I built Eduard's 1/72 F6F-5 weekend edition. This time it didn't leave any glue marks. 

 

Some use them as a template to cut masks from tamiya tape. I haven't tried this yet. 

 

It's a pity that they're rubbish, as the price is really tempting. Eduard masks are so overpriced that is ridiculous, often the mask for a newly released 1/72 kit will cost almost as much as the kit itself. Same applies to their PE parts. Check out the price for their PE fret for the Airfix Beaufort, 13,50€.

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3 minutes ago, TheKinksFan said:

It's a pity that they're rubbish, as the price is really tempting.

Even without the masks, there kits are still great value - just compare the price to what some of the original fujigawa kits are going for. And in the case of the old Japanese kits, the new Cartograph decals are a massive improvement.

 

Personally, I find masks overrated anyway - I don't think accurately placing tiny bits of vinyl or pre-cut tape is significantly faster than any of the do it yourself Tamy tape methods ... and it sure is a lot more expensive (there are, as always, exceptions).

 

Cheers

 

Colin

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2 hours ago, TheKinksFan said:

Some use them as a template to cut masks from tamiya tape.

OK, ok! I admit it! That's what I do, out of habit. I just prefer paper tape over vinyl for canopy mask...

:sorry:


 

 

 

 

:P

 

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1 hour ago, ckw said:

"Even without the masks, there kits are still great value - just compare the price to what some of the original fujigawa kits are going for. And in the case of the old Japanese kits, the new Cartograph decals are a massive improvement."

I agree, these Hobby 2000 kits are great value, I have several of their re-boxings. It is strange how expensive most Hasegawa kits are. But you can  find them at a more affordable price on Polish online stores. 

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On 2/2/2021 at 3:24 PM, ivand said:

Yes, the Revell 1/72 P-47 is quite good, just a little shortlegged (literally).

Yes, they are pretty good, but the bellies on their P-47D-30 and P-47M are too fat- they look very fish-like, but I have read there is enough plastic that the contour can be sanded down to a more accurate contour- if you compare a fuselage half to  a Tamiya or Hasegawa bubbletop Jug, you can see the difference. That being said, it's a very good kit and has the  correct C-series R-2800 and correct prop.

Mike

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Hobby 2000 seem to major on re-issuing Hasegawa kits (plus some Fujimi) but at a fraction of the original Hasegawa price, or what they now cost second hand, so I've back-ordered their Beaufighter Mk. 1F/C and Arado 234B-2 from the big 'H'.

 

Some of the Hasegawa kits being re-issued aren't perhaps the best current examples of a particular type, for example their Mk1 Hurricanes (nice decals mind) but some are well worth seeing again such as the Macchi C.202, Brewster Buffalo and D.520.

 

Regards

Colin.

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On 03/02/2021 at 15:52, TheKinksFan said:

It's Eduard masks are so overpriced that is ridiculous, often the mask for a newly released 1/72 kit will cost almost as much as the kit itself. Same applies to their PE parts. Check out the price for their PE fret for the Airfix Beaufort, 13,50€.

Tell me about it!! I have 3 Airfix Lancaster kits. I could almost get another  kit for the cost of masks for them.

It's a lot of money to pay for some tiny bits of sticky paper. Very poor value for money.

I'll stick to the old fashioned method! 😉😊

 

John

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I'll be doing the Airfix Zero soon and have bought the Eduard mask as trying to hand paint the canopy would be a nightmare, but what is the old fashioned method/alternative please?

 

As far as masks go I agree Eduard are expensive compared with the competition but they are the only ones I've ever found that actually work and stick properly being made from tape. All the other vinyl based types never give a crisp demarcation and I've ended up spending quite some time having to clean the canopy and then repaint sections by hand - which sort of defeats the object behind the mask in the first place.

 

Regards

Colin.

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5 hours ago, fishplanebeer said:

what is the old fashioned method/alternative please?

There are a number of approaches (there was a time when no one sold masks!)

 

1 - hand paint, then use a toothpick to scrape away any overspill

2 - Use thin strips of Tamiya tape to mask along the edges of the frame then fill the middle with masking fluid or more tape

3 - mask the canopy with tape then cut away the tape over the frames

4 - paint clear decal sheet the required color, cut into thin strips and apply to frame work

 

... I'm sure there are more, and variations (these are just the ones I've used).

 

I don't think there's a single best way - a lot will depend on how well and crisply the frames work is defined on the canopy, whether its lots of small panes or a large area. Some people hate doing this (hence the popularity of masks) but I quite enjoy it - with some good music playing I find it quite relaxing

 

Cheers

 

Colin

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I've wanted to do Łanowski's P-47M for a while so this reissue is very welcome. Keep 'em coming Hobby 2000 (and PLEASE do a Fujimi A-4E/F and Super F reissue at some point).

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On 05/02/2021 at 5:28 PM, fishplanebeer said:

I'll be doing the Airfix Zero soon and have bought the Eduard mask as trying to hand paint the canopy would be a nightmare, but what is the old fashioned method/alternative please?

 

Regards

Colin.

 

For my recent 1/72 Airfix Spit Vc I went back to hand painting and was pleasantly surprised at the result, despite the advancing years and retreating eyesight. 

 

I shall try it again on other fighter types, but I'm not sure I'd tackle a Do 17 or Lancaster in that way!

 

I find Peewit masks pretty good and they're not quite as expensive as Eduard.

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