Airfix Typhoon 1B Dogfight Double

[VT Red Sox Fan]

Thanks @opus999–appreciate your compliments—the green part will be posted soon—best, Erwin

[VT Red Sox Fan]

Up next is the RAF Dark Green and it is the part where I believe the aircraft starts to become more unique.  From my 1st build here, I learned a host of tricks from folks using masking tape, paper, and ironically silly putty.  During my F-105 build, I used pre-cut masks with touchups afterwards to match photos.  Most of the regulars on this thread were there for my F-105--I still remember @RidgeRunner providing me my 1st gentle critique of it might be a good idea to use an airbrush vice spray cans and thin your paint 🙌  Followed by uncountable great ideas from @The Spadgent, @giemme & @billn53 and many others.  Well, now my paint has hit the Peloton & thinned out (I had to make that fit--I am interested to see what Johnny does with it 😎🤣) & I could not imagine tackling this job without my dual action airbrush.  I have learned to integrate pre-cut masks with silly putty or tape to minimize post main paint touch ups--this relatively late production Typhoon (MP126) coupled with AML's pre-cut masks would allow me to use most of what I had learned.

 

Once I carefully applied the masks, I judged that Airfix's instructions and the pre-cut masks were far to wavy based on the pictures.   I included a photo I leaned on from the old Colors and Marking series--this was of course in addition to the photos of MP-126. I also noted that the green/grey line by Stapleton's nose art seemed to be a little lower on the fuselage in period photos compared to the instructions.  I also noted that @Chris Thomas's books which have color profiles of MP126 also have a lower grey/green line than Airfix's instructions.  Of course this realization, triggered a major slow down as I combed the web and every resource I could find on the "wavyness" of late Typhoon camo.  I came to the conclusion that cammo applied to Typhoon's gradually became less wavy--I may be off, or someone might have info to validate/explain why.   This assessment led to mods on the aircraft made by silly putty.  I felt all the research bore fruit as I only had one major touch up--the grey/green line just forward of the 1st aid kit was too far forward in my first attempt--I solved this with silly putty and paper masks.  

 

As far my technique goes, I thinned the RAF Dark Green paint to about 40% paint.  Before I sprayed this on, I pre-shaded the un-masked areas with black & then sprayed the top coat--this did not result in a lot of variation.  I feel the result is accurate, given that photos do not show MP-126 with a lot of color variation in the paint.  That said, thinking ahead I might consider a pre-shade of light grey or white where a dark color is located--thinking well weathered Vietnam era USAF aircraft etc.  I think this would mirror the marbling technique I have seen @opus999 & @Jackson Duvalier use successfully build subtler variation on their OD/NG builds.   

 

After this, I removed the masks and gloss coated to prepare for pin washes and decals.  Thank you all for your thoughts!  Best, Erwin   

    

 

 

 

[mark.au]

Somehow missed this one till now.  Looks very nice Erwin, I especially like the paint job on the pilot.

[The Spadgent]

Looking good Erwin. It never crossed my mind that I was building the same kit as this when I started the one for CC. Sorry I didn’t mean to crowd BM with more typhoons. At least I’m going bombs and sharks. 💣🦈. The colour variation you have with the pre shade looks great! It’s nice to follow someone else and pick up some tips.  
 

Johnny. 

[giemme]

Proper camo painting job there, Erwin!  

 

Ciao

[opus999]

That paint job is looking nice! 

[VT Red Sox Fan]

Thank you all—high praise coming from this crowd—Johnny, really like how your 💣🦈 attack Typhoon is coming along—thank you all for help in this project so far—best, Erwin

[VT Red Sox Fan]

Post shading and decals. 

 

Not quite moving at Johnny's clip over at the @The Spadgent, but still making steady progress on the Typhoon journey.  Given the pictures of the downed aircraft, I did not invest a lot of time beating up the aircraft as MP126 seems to have been well maintained.  Additionally, the pre shading really did the trick in subtly modulating colors over the aircraft.  I am really impressed with decals provided by Airfix for this Typhoon--no doubt @Chris Thomas is a major factor here.  Mr Thomas also has a great photo of Stapeleton's nose art from MP126's crash site following Dutchman Flg Off ‘Frickie’ Wiersum's shoot down on 5 Dec 1944 in his book, Typhoon Wings of the 2 TAF--I used these photos along with the photos below to align the nose art/markings with the camo pattern (I cheated a little and brushed some super Tamiya Green to make the placement match the pictures).   

 

I am also a big Cartograf fan--their decals nestle down real nice with the Microscale system (I zoomed in on one of the glossed roundels, it looks almost like paint to my eye anyway after washes and weathering--will post tighter shots at the end of the build).  I also think that while Airfix's instructions provided a camo scheme which appear be to "wavy" for the time period, their decal placement was spot on (again likely to Mr Thomas's assistance with their Typhoon project)--in order to best leverage their work, I turned the instruction guide into a Power Point that I could manipulate to match the size of the 1/72 aircraft--I always seem to need more guidance for placement of roundels for whatever reason.  I also caught an error that I should have picked up during the construction phase--Airfix molded the tip lights into the wings vice providing clear parts.  I cut the lights out at this stage of the build and will circle back later in the build to use Micro Scale Crystal Clear--according to period photos in Frank's book along with the Typhoon walk around, these lights are overall clear with the colored lights inside the housing.  I am not complaining though, Airfix provided a kit that practically falls together at very reasonable price point ( & no, I am not on their pay role, check out the never ending story in my Airfix Fw-190 build 🙂 )  

 

Once painting was complete, I used Mission Models Clear Gloss thinned 15/20 thinner to 80/85 gloss with their proprietary thinner for the 1st time (I used Mission Model's website as a guide and they over communicate warnings about over thinning given the consistency of their mixes).  I applied 3 coats of MM Gloss as I am used to the consistency of Testor's Gloss/Dullcoat lacquers and Mission Model's product is very thin and I wanted to make sure that I did not damage the paint job underneath.  I then used Tamiya Black Panel Accent for the elevators, flaps, rudder, engine, 1st aid panel and weapons panels.  I then used Tamiya Brown Panel Accent for all the other panels.  Once complete, I then used a freshly sharpened #2 pencils around for the on the weapons and engine bay panels.

 

Next up was the decals--they went  on with absolutely no problems and unlike my Priller Fw-190A-8 build they matched all references perfectly.  Once the decals were complete, I applied a 2nd Mission Models Clear Gloss coat to seal in the decals and apply washes/pencil to touch up areas.  In the future, I will likely decal and then weather.  For this particular build though, I was looking to really learn/explore the pre-shading techniques I have seen @giemme, @The Spadgent, @billn53 & @opus999 (to name a few) apply to their aircraft.  Once satisfied with the markings, I used Mission Models Flat to seal everything up.  The only think I wish I had considered, although I do not know if would have attempted it (more a skill thing than anything else) was following Johnny's example by lightening up some of the green.  Ah well, I feel that I will be giving this trick a whirl on my Midway Wildcat/Kate build that will take me into the summer.

 

While decaling, I took this opportunity to finish up the propellor assembly--I think Airfix did an impressive job--I used Tamiya Red & Yellow for this assembly

 

Next up will be more weapons building, landing gear, exhausts and other odds and ends--best to all, Erwin

Historical Photos/Guides 

  

Propellor--the yellow point is a little large, but it looks fine not blown up in a photo

 

No major drama with the decals or weathering, so here she is wearing her decals all glossed up--I remember commenting to @opus999 how different the aircraft look all glossed--I had a bit of a sulk looking at the washes under gloss, but it cleared up with flat.  Note the wing tip navigation lights cut out--I will sort this out later.

Here is the close up of the top roundel nestled nicely into the gloss and covered with gloss awaiting weathering 

Flat coat--whew, she looks much better with the gloss toned down

 

 

 

Edited April 6, 2021 by VT Red Sox Fan

[giemme]

Erwin, this is shaping up to be probably your best to date - great job  

 

Ciao 

[opus999]

The paint job looks terrific.  The decals settled in nicely.  The gloss coat always gives me a bit of a thrill because I feel like my careful weathering has gone away, but it always comes back.

 

Lookin' good!  Close to the finish line, too.

[opus999]

I forgot to mention that I noticed you got the yellow dot in the center of the spinner!  It took me a few tries before I was happy with mine, but my wife taught me a neat trick for making paint dots in the process, so it was practice well spent!

[Valkyrie]

Really love a typhoon, this is looking to be shaping up to be really nice. Great thread 

[VT Red Sox Fan]

On 4/6/2021 at 2:58 PM, giemme said:

Erwin, this is shaping up to be probably your best to date - great job  

 

Ciao 

G, thank you—really appreciate your support through the years—it is cool to look at the journey—best, Erwin

Edited April 7, 2021 by VT Red Sox Fan

[The Spadgent]

Looks proper solid. The paintwork and weathering are beautiful. I’m glad those yellow leading edge decals work. 😍

 

👏👏👏👏Bravo. 
 

Johnny

[VT Red Sox Fan]

On 4/6/2021 at 9:28 PM, opus999 said:

I forgot to mention that I noticed you got the yellow dot in the center of the spinner!  It took me a few tries before I was happy with mine, but my wife taught me a neat trick for making paint dots in the process, so it was practice well spent!

Opuss, as always thank you for your thoughts and compliments--FWIW, my technique may be more hazardous than yours, (I used silly putty jammed into the nose cone to mount a tooth pick and then dipped into a Tamiya yellow lid)--would you be willing to share your technique?  Best, Erwin  

Edited April 9, 2021 by VT Red Sox Fan

[VT Red Sox Fan]

On 4/6/2021 at 10:02 PM, Valkyrie said:

Really love a typhoon, this is looking to be shaping up to be really nice. Great thread 

Valkarie, thank you for great compliment--much appreciated--apologize for the belated response--it has been busy lately--best, Erwin

[VT Red Sox Fan]

On 4/7/2021 at 7:34 PM, The Spadgent said:

Looks proper solid. The paintwork and weathering are beautiful. I’m glad those yellow leading edge decals work. 😍

 

👏👏👏👏Bravo. 
 

Johnny

Johnny--thank you for the compliments--yes, the yellow decals went on nicely, although I will admit I used copious amounts of decal setting solution given the sharp complex curves on the leading edge--it made me sweat for a day or two--that said, I really liked how they came out--very impressed with Airfix's decals as of late--sometimes the kits are worth it for the decals--your BTW your Typhoon looks awesome--best, Erwin 

[giemme]

2 minutes ago, VT Red Sox Fan said:

yes, the yellow decals went on nicely, although I will admit I used copious amounts of decal setting solution given the sharp complex curves on the leading edge--it made me sweat for a day or two--that said, I really liked how they came out

I really don't understand why you guys go through such trials and tribulations, it would have been so much easier to mask and spray those yellow bands....       

 

Just kidding, I hate decals and envy anybody who can deal properly with them...  

 

Ciao

[VT Red Sox Fan]

This update will focus on the exhausts and landing gear.  Everything I have read on late model Typhoons like MP126 indicates there was a small seam/wld line on the exhaust tubes.  In a few of the blogs I posted earlier & in Frank's book, the recommendation is to leave well enough alone go with the kit exhausts.  I created the metal effect with a base coat of Tamiya AS-12, Bare Metal Silver, and then misted following Alclad 2 colors to attempt recreating the impact of high heat on the metal--Burnt Iron ALC 121, Jet Exhaust ALC 113, Pale Burnt Metal ALC 104, Hot Metal Sepia ALC 416.  I then attached the exhausts with Tamiya cement--they fit brilliantly in the fuselage.  While, I am happy with the exhausts, I am looking forward to trying out AK's metal line-- @billn53 has done some brilliant work with these paints

Next up is the landing gear, based on guidance/interpretations from Frank's book, I decided to put the landing gear doors on before the brake lines. The gear doors went on without any issues and then it was on the brake line. Again I used Frank's book and Eduard's photo etch instructions as a guide for my fishing line brake lines that were attached with CA glue.  I touch these up with Tamiya silver--the photos I had did not indicate an exposed brake line that was black.

 

Then I discovered a detour.  While looking at the aircraft, I noticed a dot of CA had fallen off a toothpick on to the lower cowl intake ugh🙄  While admiring Johnny's Typhoon @The Spadgent, I just couldn't let it go.  Besides, I have learned a lot here on how to fix a blemish, so I guess it is now it is time test my skills--the blemish actually occurred in a "good" place for an accident--single color/flat area.  Time to pull out the sanding sticks, paint and masking materials.  At least, I kept my cool--it is a British aircraft all 😎 and did not send her for a final flight or make her fodder for @giemme's Stuka.  Next up will be my detour to fix the paint job.     Best to all, Erwin

 

Exhausts

 

Landing gear refernces/assembly with clear brake line--ie fishing line

Brake lines painted with final wash

Wheels with Tamiya wash

Main landing gear complete & a great shot of the blemish that will delay completion

 

[VT Red Sox Fan]

2 hours ago, giemme said:

I really don't understand why you guys go through such trials and tribulations, it would have been so much easier to mask and spray those yellow bands....       

 

Just kidding, I hate decals and envy anybody who can deal properly with them...  

 

Ciao

No sweat G, 🤣 your builds are amazing--really appreciate all you have taught me🙌--I think 1/72 is about the largest scale you could away with using decals--that said, I acknowledge that most would have gone the paint route--best, Erwin

[VT Red Sox Fan]

After reviewing Johnny's spectacular build @The Spadgent, I decided to post my progress (actually more accurately stated as catch up from a set back), as I too want to try an RFI for this build--it will be my first.  Given @giemme's initial photo tips on my Fw-190A-8, it will be cool to post after I fix the wart I placed on the chin to demonstrate my skills (trying to keep it positive)🤣

Really appreciate folks like Johny, G, @opus999 & @billn53 who have posted how they have fixed issues like the chin wart in the past--you guys and many others saved this build.  First I sanded the CA glue off and smoothed out the area down to the "Fine" sanding stick.  I then masked very carefully using a gallon bag to protect the majority of the aircraft and sealed the opening for the fuselage with Tamiya tape.  The good news is that there are no decals here so do I did not need to worry about lifting decals (I had previously sealed everything up with lacquer, but you never know).  I then recreated the layers of paint with Tamiya primer, the underside color, varnish and washes.  

 

Up next will be weapons!  

 

Best to all,

 

Erwin 

 

 

Edited April 18, 2021 by VT Red Sox Fan

[giemme]

Smart fix, Erwin

 

Ciao 

[billn53]

Yes, a skillful save 😊

[dogsbody]

Looking good!

 

One small question, if I may: Why clear line for the brake lines? Would not the original be metal tubing with maybe some rubber section where it needs to bend around the oleo?

 

 

 

 

Chris

[VT Red Sox Fan]

Thanks @giemme & @billn53--FWIW, after completing the save and posting, I was reminded of an Animal House parallel--"4 months of building down the drain"🤣--seriously, thank you both for growing me in this art--I hope my builds are becoming more informative--Best, Erwin