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23 hours ago, Marco1965 said:

Hey I have been following your Panther!  Amazing project!  It has been difficult to find proper references of operational Panther´s interior, in fact I´ve got none, only from production or I guess manuals (and of course I don´t like restorations as reference).  About the ammo, I didn´t know they would not mix ammo types, sound´s reasonable though.  This time, it will stay there, already glued, artistic license, 🙂

 

Marco

Restorations aren't that bad really, as far as you know how seriously these guys take their thing. For my build I've followed pretty much the Littlefield Panther. It's Ausf.A, but as far as they do their research, I tend to trust these guys

And of course as you have noticed, I guess, I've taken my liberties there as well.

As of the artistic license... I know, I've used this argument as well in many of my projects. Just thought it would be proper to bring this up and leave you to decide.

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Nicholas Moran (The Chieftain) has done an inside the hatch on a Panther (not sure if it's relevant to you, but hey you never know) 

 

other than that. Superb work mate, I'm taking notes

 

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  • 2 weeks later...

So the time came to work on the track, which is an area where I have to learn a lot.  The tracks in Takom´s Panther are provided in rigid plastic, molded in long segments as well as individual links.  Track guidance teeth are molded apart, cleverly attached to a section of sprue that allows you to glue them in groups, detaching the guidance sprue afterwards without too many issues,

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And this is the final result after gluing the teeth in place and detaching the sprue guidance, clever.  Same system applies for the individual links.

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Next steps would be to glue segments and individual links using the soft plastic template provided in the kit, have to be careful aligning the links but it works fine.  I ended up completing 4 separate segments by side, still being able to detach them from the driver and idle wheels for painting.  They will be glued to the tank in later stages of course.

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And finally I started painting the tracks.  This is something I don´t have experience in at all, so I watched lots of tutorials, recommendations, forums, etc etc. So I started doing the thing that everybody recommends: paint tracks black, or nato black or very dark gray (I used Black)

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Second step, varies according to video... I preferred to apply a layer of Burnt Umber, distributed randomly, not completely covering the black color below and giving a patchy appearance.

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I started my "test" with artist pastels, AKA Pigments and AKA "Splash Mud" (Acrylic) using the lower segment of the track (the one that will face the ground, safe if I mess up).  I went on link by link appying first some Splash mud, and while still wet, rubbing a mix of pale yellow and light gray artist pastels, rubbing until they blended with the acrylic on to the track.  The initial aspect was like dusty tracks (light in the picture doesn´t help, sorry),

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Difference starting to show.

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I continued with the same process until finishing all the segment with the same "Splash Mud+Artist pastels" treatment.  And rubbed some graphite to check if my method had a future or not.  And well, I think it does.

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After completing the segment, with spots on different color pigments, some more graphite, I think it looks ok.  Will add still some small splashes of mud, maybe some very limirted touches of dark rust for contrast, to see how they look, and if I like the result, I´ll continue with the remaining segments until completed.

WE1vE8Il.jpg

 

Marco 

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  • 3 weeks later...

Leaving tracks apart... I started working on the beautiful Maybach H230, a kit on itself, around 70 parts, and a joy to assemble.  I assembled as much as I could before starting the painting process.  I appreciate that all the parts are provided in one single sprue, and the part numbers are listed in order, great!

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A pity that such details as the carburators intakes will not be visible, definitely ideal for a maintenance scene.

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I applies as base color "Base Engine", a very dark gray from MiG, and started working contrasts with different panel accents, artist pastels and pigments.  Some parts were painted in different shades of gray and "Anthrazit", for contrast.  The covers of the exhausts and the exhausts were painted with a mix of black, rust and gray/black/yellow/rust pigments.  Couple lines were added to the distributors (I think they are distributors, the metallic parts on the upper right part of the engine, below).  The engine plaque decal is a nice touch.

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The opposite side of the engine, with the thin red pipes already installed.  Was sort of afraid of installing those, but they fall in place without issues.  Lots of details below the valve covers will not be visible once the Maybach is installed inside the engine compartment.  Takom molded smartly the parts, in a way where the seams and unions are located mostly in invisible places once assembled.

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And the air filter cover, which is the most visible part of the engine, was painted "Cremeweiss" and weathered with some panel accent and a wash.  Still some scratches effects laying ahead.

tY00b4xl.jpg

 

Marco

 

 

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Great work and attention to detail Marco!  I love the engine. Will be following with interest:popcorn:

 

For plastic tracks, you generally follow the process that I use, which is a base coat for NATO black or similar, a very light spray of rust colour (I use a mix Tamiya acrylics of 50% NATO Brown, 40% NATO Black and 10% Flat Red), then highlight the metal treads by fine brushing in Mr Color Iron with some buffing using cotton buds.

 

Sort of similar to this video:

 

https://youtu.be/Ry2GoMdkVQY?t=96

 

 

 

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Great job with the engine, Marco. It looks really nice.

Takom has done a great job engineering the engine like they have done, It simply falls together.

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The engine really looks good. The engine visible in the tank is one of the most beautiful places in the model for me

 

Vytautas

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Well I took lots of pictures, as only like 25% of the engine is visible once installed.  This kit would be ideal to issue a maintenance diorama, with all the insides out!  But, I really enjoyed assembling this thing.  Anyway, this is the finished engine before installing:

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Installing it into the engine compartment was not really difficult, maybe the biggest issue is making the traction shaft fit into the front part of the engine, I had to issue a hook with fine wire to be able to pull the shaft up until it snapped in place.  The resto fits pretty good, I left the whole think drying with some pressure applied to make sure nothing ended up lose.   Some retouches of course still necessary, and there are still lots of parts to add to the engine compartment.

hoVh1Xtl.jpg

 

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Marco

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Seeing your excellent build of the Panther Maybach V12 of 600-700HP installed it makes me wonder why, when German aircraft of the same era  were using V12 engines of double that Horsepower, German armour continued using the much lesser output powerplants. Even the Konigstiger retained the same engine and power output and was recognised as underpowered.

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53 minutes ago, echen said:

Seeing your excellent build of the Panther Maybach V12 of 600-700HP installed it makes me wonder why, when German aircraft of the same era  were using V12 engines of double that Horsepower, German armour continued using the much lesser output powerplants. Even the Konigstiger retained the same engine and power output and was recognised as underpowered.

 

That's because power isn't the only thing that's important about engines.

Tanks are heavy and need much torque beside power to move them around. Aircraft engines on the other hand need less torque because the power output is constant and the most important thing is the power output to create the most thrust.

 

 

 

Edited by vaoinas
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4 hours ago, echen said:

Seeing your excellent build of the Panther Maybach V12 of 600-700HP installed it makes me wonder why, when German aircraft of the same era  were using V12 engines of double that Horsepower, German armour continued using the much lesser output powerplants. Even the Konigstiger retained the same engine and power output and was recognised as underpowered.

I have been wondering about this for a while, you know I am a fan of Formula 1 car racing, and looking at those tiny engines delivering more HP than the huge Maybach, amazes me.  Of course, they run like above 15,000 RPM, and I guess that would not be practical in a tank, but I am no engineer and don't really understand the HP/torque etc variables.

 

Marco

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I'm puzzled. I realise I don't know much about bhp, HP, torque and engine performance but I've owned 2 versions of the same car, almost identical but for the fact that one was 90bhp and the other was 115bhp.

The 115bhp uses marginally more fuel but it pulls significantly better than the 90bhp car ever did. Surely a higher power engine is not stressed so much and is more likely to be reliable, negating the need to blow the vehicle up because it has broken down, there are no nearby workshops and it can't be moved anywhere because the necessary 3 (vary rare) Sd Kfz9 Famos are dragging a Tiger out of a hole a hundred miles away. etc....

Edited by echen
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  • 2 weeks later...

I installed the fire extinguishers, added some additional lines according to references.

FVtgGepl.jpg

 

I finished adding the pipes to the engine compartment, some patience was needed as the parts need time to stay in place, one by one, to achieve a good fitting.

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Painted the ammo bags according to references, and glued them in place along each sidewall.

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To assemble the lateral "wings" I deviated from the instructions regarding the ammunition racks and projectiles.  Instructions indicate assembling both before gluing to the "wings".   I think that is difficult regarding alignment, painting, etc.  I first glued in place the racks and painted-weathered the "wings".  Painted, decaled, sealed the ammunition, and then proceeded to insert each of them into the rack and glue if necessary (most fit quit tight in place). 

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Some pressure and a lot of care was necessary, but I think the result is better.  By the way, after reading half a dozen versions of what the color of the 75mm PE rounds case should be (steel, bronze, green, lacquered steel, bronzed steel, etc)  I ended up painting them in sort of "steel" (in fact a mix of metalizers steel/burnt metal/bronze), for contrast vs the HE shells.  

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I hate ejection pin marks... easily fixed, though.

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Gluing the lateral "wings" was not really easy.  Specially the left one gave me issues, it wouldn´t fit properly, some pressure was necessary, and then I assembled both sides in 2 steps, first the back part on the sides of the engine compartment, and then the part alongside the cockpit.  With the melting effect of Tamiya´s liquid cement, both sides ended up fitting nicely.  Tolerances are pretty narrow in the engine compartment area.

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And this is how it currently looks.  It is noticeable how heavy the model is becoming as progressively more plastic is added.  

ZXytDz7l.jpg

Marco

 

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Congratulations on a very impressive build. Looking forward to seeing the rest.

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Saying goodbye to all the nice parts inside the engine compartment... not much will be seen after putting everything in place (Next time I´ll use a Strabokran to lift the engine and make it visible!).  But well, I fit all the engine ventilation equipment, some more hoses, and although the parts fit well, I noticed some distortion of the engine compartment lateral walls, they are quite thin.  It seems like between supports and hoses, they exert pressure on the walls.  Luckily, once the upper part of the vehicle is installed, this distortion will not be noticeable.

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Nicely packed, all the essential parts have been glued in place.

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All good, the parts fit in nicely, and then... the rear wall proved to be a different story.  That part really gave me some issues.  It would not fit, the lower part that should match the vehicle´s side walls, did not fit in place, neither the side tabs.  And it is not really easy to put it in place, not for dry fitting I mean, it requires some pressure to open the sidewalls of the tank hull and fit it in, I was afraid of breaking something while trying.  After several tries, trimming here and there, I managed to make it fit, and then I required couple rubber bands to keep it in place where it belongs.  I guess drying overnight will solve any issues.

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Once dry, I´ll proceed with the final weathering of the engine compartment, mainly dust and fluids stains, but not too much as only the central part with the engine will be visible at the end.  Closer to finishing the interior!

 

Marco

 

 

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Don’t be offended, but you’re a real sadist. There should be legal liability for concealing such interiors.

Are you sure you haven’t broken any law? :rofl:

 

Vytautas

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1 hour ago, vytautas said:

Don’t be offended, but you’re a real sadist. There should be legal liability for concealing such interiors.

Are you sure you haven’t broken any law? :rofl:

 

Vytautas

That is what most of my fellow scale modelers tell me... 😎 Next time, with the Strabokran!

 

Marco

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