Mark's Workbench: A Supermarine Spitfire Journey in 1/72 Scale: Airfix Spitfire Mk.Vc

[2996 Victor]

3 minutes ago, opus999 said:

All my recent gray/green and brown/green spitfires and my brown/green P-40N are Hataka if you want a feel for how the paint looks... the usual caveats about monitors, etc. apply.  I thin the Hataka paint the same as I do Mr. Color, which is 2:1 thinner to paint.  Hataka is thinner than Mr. Color so you might be able to get away with 1:1.  I love the plastic dropper bottles and the mixing ball inside.  You can tell the paint is mixed by watching the bottom of the bottle and you can see the pigment caked on the bottom slowly disappearing.  

 

Alright... I'll get off the topic now.  

 

No worries - I'm always happy to learn the wisdom of my more experienced brethren  but seriously, as someone who's only been back in the hobby less than a year (model railways are a slightly different ballgame - wagons are basically just boxes, after all!), discovering which are the best kits, paints, materials and above all techniques is all part of the learning curve! So a big thank you!

 

Kind regards,

 

Mark

[airjiml2]

Looking good.

 

Have you received the Kitsworld Malta sheet?  Mine appears to be a prototype for their decal seatbelts, as I can feel the decals on the paper.  Not really usable for codes and roundels, and I was quite disappointed as the sheet has some useful stuff on it.  Is yours the same?

 

Thank you,

 

Jim

[2996 Victor]

19 minutes ago, airjiml2 said:

Looking good.

 

Have you received the Kitsworld Malta sheet?  Mine appears to be a prototype for their decal seatbelts, as I can feel the decals on the paper.  Not really usable for codes and roundels, and I was quite disappointed as the sheet has some useful stuff on it.  Is yours the same?

 

Thank you,

 

Jim

Hi Jim,

 

Many thanks for your kind words.

 

I have received the KitsWorld Malta sheet, and I've given it a basic perusal but not looked any closer. Leave it with me and I'll have a good look at the sheet tomorrow.

 

Kind regards,

 

Mark

[2996 Victor]

20 hours ago, airjiml2 said:

Looking good.

 

Have you received the Kitsworld Malta sheet?  Mine appears to be a prototype for their decal seatbelts, as I can feel the decals on the paper.  Not really usable for codes and roundels, and I was quite disappointed as the sheet has some useful stuff on it.  Is yours the same?

 

Thank you,

 

Jim

 

Hi Jim,

 

Sorry I haven't replied sooner. I've just had a good look at the KitsWorld Malta sheet, and the decals are actually quite thick.

 

I'm not sure if it's the actual markings or the carrier film that are the issue, and I think it may be worthwhile trying them out just to see how they look in position.

 

Anyway, hope that helps!

 

Kind regards,

 

Mark

[2996 Victor]

No modelling today, all I've done is to wash the Spitfire, along with the Tomahawk and the Zero, with a spot of washing-up liquid on an old toothbrush in the hope of dislodging dust and detritus from the details.

 

They're drying now, in the hope that I can spray some primer tomorrow.

 

Cheers for now,

 

Mark

[2996 Victor]

Hello everyone!

 

Well, the progress report on this build is pretty much in line with the Tomahawk and the Zero. I'd say the Spitfire has hit the middle ground, in that it didn't suffer the primer spatter that beset the Tomahawk, but the joint filling didn't scrub up as well as the Zero. This latter is quite perplexing, as I thought I'd got it pretty much up straight. Anyway, here it is is after washing and before priming:

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After I'd shot some Stynylrez primer on, the groan factor set in a bit with the lower wing/fuselage joint, the seam down the Vokes air filter, and perhaps most vexatious, the joint along the top of the engine cowling:

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All the joints will need re-working, and as with the Tomahawk, I'm wondering what might be the best medium. I'm really not that happy with how the PPP behaves: the lower wing on the Zero is proof of that. I've got some Mr Surfacer 1000 I could try, and @CedB has recently extolled the virtues of Mr Dissolved Putty. Suggestions, please!

 

So, (reverts to native Somerset) yer's wer oi be to:

http://

http://

 

Thanks for dropping by  

 

Cheers,

 

Mark

[Beard]

I've lost count of the number of times I've filled and sanded the top cowling on a Spitfire, only to have to fill and sand it again (and again).

If it's any help, PPP is no good for that kind of seam (IMO). Humbrol filler is what I use.

[2996 Victor]

6 minutes ago, Beard said:

I've lost count of the number of times I've filled and sanded the top cowling on a Spitfire, only to have to fill and sand it again (and again).

If it's any help, PPP is no good for that kind of seam (IMO). Humbrol filler is what I use.

 

Hi Simon,

 

Many thanks - it's a relief to know it's not just me! 

 

Good to know about PPP - I've thought it a bit crumbly but I've been persevering with it.

 

I remember the Humbrol filler from years ago being quite stiff and difficult to work which is probably why I've steered away from it, but the formula has probably changed! I think perhaps I ought to try it out again.

 

Cheers,

 

Mark

[Beard]

52 minutes ago, 2996 Victor said:

I remember the Humbrol filler from years ago being quite stiff and difficult to work which is probably why I've steered away from it, but the formula has probably changed! I think perhaps I ought to try it out again.

It does seem to go off quickly. I use a bit of Liquid Poly to keep it soft.

The main reason I use it is because it's easily available (there aren't any model shops in the town I live in).

[CedB]

Missed the start of this one but caught up now - nice internals Mark  

 

I've commented on fine fillers in your other thread but forgot about Humbrol! It's actually my 'go to' filler for most things now since I found it can be thinned with Liquid Poly. I like the way its starts to go off quickly so excess can be 'scraped off' to reduce sanding - always a bonus. I'm applying it with one of those 'Mr Glue Applicator' things, worth a tenner for the little CA tray!

[2996 Victor]

12 minutes ago, CedB said:

Missed the start of this one but caught up now - nice internals Mark

 

Thanks, Ced, it does spruce up quite nicely, although I've alluded to a few little things I'd add by way of sketching in the cockpit detail a bit more on the next (and subsequent!) ones! My Plan is to use the photos on the Spitfire Site to make some cockpit sketches to remind what bits to add where.

 

14 minutes ago, CedB said:

I've commented on fine fillers in your other thread but forgot about Humbrol! It's actually my 'go to' filler for most things now since I found it can be thinned with Liquid Poly. I like the way its starts to go off quickly so excess can be 'scraped off' to reduce sanding - always a bonus. I'm applying it with one of those 'Mr Glue Applicator' things, worth a tenner for the little CA tray!

 

Thanks again, Ced, that's worth knowing, especially the ability to thin it with Liquid Poly. Apologies Simon @Beard - you mentioned thinning Humbrol filler in your post as well, I'm afraid I was half asleep by then.....

 

All good techniques that have been eagerly taken on board  

 

Cheers,

 

Mark

[opus999]

Almost all of my filling is CA.  I'm sure that will elicit groans, gasps and other reactions, but that's all I've used since coming back to the hobby.  Never could get Mr. Surfacer 500 to work... never liked how porous putty is... I will occasionally use epoxy putty.  None of this helps you I'm sure...  

[2996 Victor]

6 hours ago, opus999 said:

Almost all of my filling is CA.  I'm sure that will elicit groans, gasps and other reactions, but that's all I've used since coming back to the hobby.  Never could get Mr. Surfacer 500 to work... never liked how porous putty is... I will occasionally use epoxy putty.  None of this helps you I'm sure...  

 

Au contraire! I've tried using CA as a gap filler and found it worked fairly well, although I did find it difficult to sand well. I've been recommended to try CA mixed with talcum powder as well, which I'd like to try - I'll "borrow" some of my better half's talc when she's not looking. At least the models will smell nice  

[opus999]

14 hours ago, 2996 Victor said:

 

Au contraire! I've tried using CA as a gap filler and found it worked fairly well, although I did find it difficult to sand well. I've been recommended to try CA mixed with talcum powder as well, which I'd like to try - I'll "borrow" some of my better half's talc when she's not looking. At least the models will smell nice  

Hmm.  Interesting.  Hadn't heard the talcum powder thing before.  I don't know if I use a different CA or what, but I've never had a problem sanding it.  when I use my 12000 grit sand paper it polishes to a glassy finish... which doesn't always keep paint on (ask me how I know!  )

[2996 Victor]

8 hours ago, opus999 said:

Hmm.  Interesting.  Hadn't heard the talcum powder thing before.  I don't know if I use a different CA or what, but I've never had a problem sanding it.  when I use my 12000 grit sand paper it polishes to a glassy finish... which doesn't always keep paint on (ask me how I know!  )

 

It could well be that the CA I was using was too viscous, although it was allegedly "gap-filling", and more to point, too old! I certainly noticed a difference with a new bottle of what was supposed to be the same grade.

 

Moral: keep your glue fresh!

[opus999]

8 hours ago, 2996 Victor said:

Moral: keep your glue fresh!

yes indeed!

 

So, what is the talc supposed to do? Does it make the glue easier to see, or does it provide some property?

[2996 Victor]

59 minutes ago, opus999 said:

yes indeed!

 

So, what is the talc supposed to do? Does it make the glue easier to see, or does it provide some property?

 

Honestly, I don't actually know! I suspect it's effect is to bulk up the CA, make it mouldable and more easily sand-able, but I'm sure others more qualified than me will be able to give the real reasons!

[Michael louey]

HI Mark,

 

I've had to fill the seam in the upper cowling about half a dozen times on the Eduard Spitfires. I always use Superglue (in my case it's a high quality brand available here called Bob Smith and it's the medium gap filling variant). I usually sand back soon after it has been applied - i.e. later in the day or the next day so the super glue isn't as "hard".

 

I've got a number of Spitfires in the "Ready for Inspection" area where you can see the results. Good luck with your build, I'm planning on starting one of these once I get the current builds off the bench.

 

Cheers

 

Michael

[Max Headroom]

Just caught up on this. I’m glad I’m not the only one that doesn’t get along with PPP. My go-to filler is Humbrol or Revell’s Plasto when available. I also have Milliput, but that’s more for structural work rather than gap filling.

 

Looking forward to your next instalment.

 

Trevor

[2996 Victor]

6 hours ago, Michael louey said:

HI Mark,

 

I've had to fill the seam in the upper cowling about half a dozen times on the Eduard Spitfires. I always use Superglue (in my case it's a high quality brand available here called Bob Smith and it's the medium gap filling variant). I usually sand back soon after it has been applied - i.e. later in the day or the next day so the super glue isn't as "hard".

 

I've got a number of Spitfires in the "Ready for Inspection" area where you can see the results. Good luck with your build, I'm planning on starting one of these once I get the current builds off the bench.

 

Cheers

 

Michael

 

Hi Michael,

 

Many thanks for describing the technique you use - it certainly sounds worth a try, and I'll have a look for your RFIs as well. Interesting that the quality of the product could make such a difference - the CA I have is branded Javis, which is a fairly good make as far as I know, but I think the bottle I had tried filling with was really past its best. I also left it for probably the best part of a week before trying to sand it.....

 

I can highly recommend this kit, it's been a joy to build so far, and as I said previously, I'm pretty sure any shortcomings are down to my ineptitude!

 

Kind regards,

 

Mark

[2996 Victor]

41 minutes ago, Max Headroom said:

Just caught up on this. I’m glad I’m not the only one that doesn’t get along with PPP. My go-to filler is Humbrol or Revell’s Plasto when available. I also have Milliput, but that’s more for structural work rather than gap filling.

 

Looking forward to your next instalment.

 

Trevor

 

Hi Trevor,

 

Yes - I'm not sure about PPP. On the face of it, it seems like a good, versatile filler that's easy to apply and work. But I think the problem is that, once dry, the edges don't feather out in sanding but tend to crumble a little bit.

 

I'm waiting for the Humbrol filler to arrive. I used to have some Milliput, but found that hard to use for fine work.

 

The Mr Surfacer 1000 arrived, and over the course of the last week I've applied three coats to the offending seams on my three current incumbents of my bench, and spent yesterday afternoon sanding.

 

Hopefully, I'll put another coat of primer on today.....

 

Kind regards,

 

Mark

[Graham Boak]

I found Mr Surfacer 1000 too thin for filling, but it does do a good job at smoothing any minor scratches.  Mr Surfacer 500 is slightly thicker, but again too thin for my taste, although it is more suitable now it is somewhat older and less runny.  The best I've found is Mr Dissolved Putty, which has the advantage of being easily removed for the areas where I've been a little over-indulgent.  it did a very good job on, for eample, my Airfix Vampire.  A lot of the time I do use Revell Plasto, but like the Humbrol equivalent this is much less easy to remove from unwanted areas, and I end up thinking I should have used MDP or Mr. S500.  Milliput for major reshaping is still unbeatable on the model front, although I'm prepared to accept that some of the auto fillers are every bit as good I don't see them around, and i suspect they come in larger quantities than I'm ever likely to need.

[alt-92]

Humbrol filler also thins with their own enamel thinner - it's basically the only reason I still have that bottle.

A wetted brush with thinner will smooth out freshly applied filler, and with careful use allow for some shaping as well. 
After that, if necessary I'll use Surfacer500 as microfiller, with a touch of SLT to smooth the excess.

[2996 Victor]

2 hours ago, Graham Boak said:

I found Mr Surfacer 1000 too thin for filling, but it does do a good job at smoothing any minor scratches.  Mr Surfacer 500 is slightly thicker, but again too thin for my taste, although it is more suitable now it is somewhat older and less runny.  The best I've found is Mr Dissolved Putty, which has the advantage of being easily removed for the areas where I've been a little over-indulgent.  it did a very good job on, for eample, my Airfix Vampire.  A lot of the time I do use Revell Plasto, but like the Humbrol equivalent this is much less easy to remove from unwanted areas, and I end up thinking I should have used MDP or Mr. S500.  Milliput for major reshaping is still unbeatable on the model front, although I'm prepared to accept that some of the auto fillers are every bit as good I don't see them around, and i suspect they come in larger quantities than I'm ever likely to need.

 

Hi Graham,

 

I think you're probably right about the Mr Surfacer 1000, but not ever having used Mr Surfacer before I went middle-for-diddle on the grade! I think I'll probably get some 500 shortly (although I've vastly over-spent my modelling budget for this week!), but I did invest in some Mr Dissolved Putty which is now residing in my den, ready for use. I'm looking forward to trying it out, but I'm not sure whether to try it on the Spitfire as it seems like a bit of a backward step, although there's still some remedial work to be done which I'll touch upon below.

 

I've still got some Squadron Green, which is quite good as a general-purpose filler, but I'm not entirely sure its any better than PPP!

 

Kind regards,

Mark

[2996 Victor]

2 hours ago, alt-92 said:

Humbrol filler also thins with their own enamel thinner - it's basically the only reason I still have that bottle.

A wetted brush with thinner will smooth out freshly applied filler, and with careful use allow for some shaping as well. 
After that, if necessary I'll use Surfacer500 as microfiller, with a touch of SLT to smooth the excess.

 

Hi @alt-92,

 

that's interesting about being able to smooth and shape Humbrol filler with a enamel thinner-wetted brush - I think I've still got some Humbrol enamel thinner somewhere so I'll give that a try when my Humbrol filler finally turns up!

 

Kind regards,

 

Mark