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Saro Lerwick in 1/72 , not Contrail but scratch work...


JWM

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16 hours ago, Beard said:

My wife's birthday present is sorted.

We're all certain she will be thrilled, I mean, who wouldn't be?

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Great find well done.

 

👍

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I did exhaust pipes from a plastic frames, the props are resin copies of that from Valom's Harrow. Engines are from MPM's Welly mk X.

51013904087_bc6692d8a0_o.jpg

 

@Heather Kay - if you still need props for Contrail kit and you think those looks OK please PM your address. I did extra copies for you. I am not sure how it will be with canopy, I am still not successful with it. Maybe I will do using me secret weapon - the multielement, glued almost window by window one...

Regards

J-W

 

 

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Hi,

I finally gave up with vacu forming of whole main canopy. I had next two attempts and in both cases I was unable to heat clear sheet evenly what ended in appearance of a hole in it... So I  turned to mine way - glueing the canopy from single windows:

51027376502_94a8b96164_o.jpg

It turns not bad so far, I think. The upper part will come from a partially failed vacu (or stamp) forming. I hope I will be able to fit it ok. 

The props will have some more massive hubs. I do not glue engines on their positions unless I will not finished with canopy.

 

To be continued

Regards

J-W

 

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Since I am coming to the painting time one doubt came. In the WW2 section I asked for help and opinions about th epainting scheme and there is a suggestion of one of BM fellow that Lerwick could wear (at lest in early service time) the shadow shading. 

Now I have to decide, whether I will follow this suggestion or not...

Regards

J-W

 

 

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Great canopy!

 

I use a paint stripping hot air gun for softening the plastic, it gives a nice even spread of heat. If you are burning holes in the plastic then perhaps you need to be further from the heat source and let it take longer to soften?

 

Regards,

Adrian

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2 hours ago, AdrianMF said:

I use a paint stripping hot air gun for softening the plastic, it gives a nice even spread of heat. If you are burning holes in the plastic then perhaps you need to be further from the heat source and let it take longer to soften?

 

Regards,

Adrian

In fact I think I should do this in more controlled conditions, like with this hot air gun hold at given distance (something like lab stand to hold this gun), maybe a tube which will keep hot air going directly... For sure I will try more one, because i am is very close already. On YT i've noticed that heating and pumping are not done simultaneously (what I did) - but first plastic is heat up and when it  felt down on stamp under own weight the vacuum was turned on. Is it also your way? 

Regards

J-W

 

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I glued the top of canpy cut out from my failed attempts to do a whole canopy as one piece vacu formed. 

Then I had to sand join a bit

51033432297_d6aa76cd61_o.jpg

 

Then to polish it with 2000 grade paper

51032602413_4d96cee235_o.jpg

 

Then to polish with a cotton cloth and finally paint with diluted  gloss varnish

51033330591_9a6b01bbc1_o.jpg

51032602688_8ecf02c6ef_o.jpg

Some more sanding/putting around canopy was necessary and I masked it to paint frames

 

When I finished I glued also engines, To props I added hubs, they are not finished yet.

I started painting fuselage is shadow sahading mode

 

51032602798_fb0a359018_o.jpg

51032602893_961d686b4a_o.jpg

 

What is left to construct are turrets and beach wheels, aerials and DF loop and details of prop hubs (pitch control gear)....And of course further painting, portholes etc...

 

To be continued

Regards

Jerzy-Wojtek

 

 

 

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24 minutes ago, Marklo said:

That’s looking really good, especially considering the amount of kit bashing you’ve done.

Thank you! Regarding kit bashing, indieed, there was some:

1 Fuselage glued from Airfix  Sunderland cut into teens pieces and plastic sheet

2. The same external floats 

3. Fin and rudder based on DC-2 Special Hobby (etxneded)

4. Stabilizers from Frog P47 wings

5. Engines from MPM Wellington (modified),

6. Nacelles from Airfix Halifax, Frog Wellington., putty

7 Props - resin copies of  Valom's HP Harrow

8. Oil coolers - Airfix Halifax

9. Wings - plastic sheet plus two ZTS Il-2, plus spare tail from Farman 223.3 + putty

10. Canopy - 8 pieces home made...

....

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On 3/14/2021 at 3:00 PM, Brandy said:

Excellent work on the canopy, and a very novel approach too.

Looking very nice indeed!

 

On 3/14/2021 at 10:06 AM, perdu said:

Fabulous work making the canopy from pieces, proper modelmaking.

 

 

On 3/14/2021 at 12:13 PM, woody37 said:

Just caught up with your build, wow! Really looking like a Lerwick now. How you've tackled that canopy is superb.

 

Just love watching your builds and how they come together :)

 

Thank you ! I appreciate very much all comments, so nice ,,,. To be frank, I am doing such way canopies in many scratch work (conversion or build) - I have found it very useful . It started many years ago, maybe it is already 25 or so.  I think for the first time is did it in Frog (or  rather Novo) Beaufort, when I faund that main canopy needs to be a bit taller, and it has a flaw with one window and I decided to cut all flat windows (front and sides) and replace them by separate one. Here it is:

https://www.britmodeller.com/forums/index.php?/topic/234979689-bristol-beaufort-mk-i-malta-1942-frognovo-reshaped-172/&tab=comments#comment-1948799

Then I started to use it in conversions as well as in a complete scratch works, just to name some - Ju86R, Ju 24H, Caproni 309 and 310, Kaproni-Bulgarski KB11  Fazan, Balackurn Shark, Me 210&410, Savoia 79 JRS, PZL P43, Percival Petrel and Gul, Miles Martinet and Falcon, DH 90 Dragonfly, Bloch 220, Potez 651 (each one of them was on RFI - please search if you like to see results :) ) 

 

Going back to Lerwick. On WW2 section I asked about colors of beach gear. I've got suggestion that alu (thanks  @adey m) - so I am going this way:

51041215861_474fcf941c_o.jpg

9790205_450_450_81393_0_fill_0_3861be3fb

 

Meanwhile I did some important painting works

51040483348_80d5161871_o.jpg

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From bottom it requires next layer

51041215771_37e762a72a_o.jpg

 

Regards

J-W

 

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Wow, at last, a proper Lerwick in 1/72 scale, that looks so Lerwicky so far, amazing attention to detail and character.

 

I want one.

 

regards, adey

Edited by adey m
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I think the cylindrical objects in the beaching gear were floats of some kind. We often forget the aircraft was floating in water when the wheels were fitted. The lumps that appear on the Sunderland and Stranraer gear are the same idea, I think, giving the beaching crew a fighting chance to get the heavy wheelsets into place while up to their chests in cold water!

 

I have seen at least one colour photo where the floats had been painted red and green to show which fitted port and starboard. I don’t know how common that was, but it makes sense.

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On 16/03/2021 at 07:18, Heather Kay said:

I have seen at least one colour photo where the floats had been painted red and green to show which fitted port and starboard. I

 

The US Navy did that on their Marlin .

 

resized_53c30644-99e7-457e-ad12-ab778bba

 

regards, adey

Edited by adey m
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1 hour ago, adey m said:

I would not trust RAF ground blokes to know which was which

Nice gratuitous insult for those guys who you may remember were flyingBOAT handlers Adey, especially when the wingtip lights on any RAF machine were also colour coded. Red Port Left - Green Starboard Right.

 

:)

 

My dad who was Sunderland crew must be spinning in his grave, those handling crews worked day and night to have the boats ready for more fighting and he was always proud of the guys at Pembroke Dock.

 

👍

 

(I do reckon the USN approach was mostly Bullsh though, they were handling these things daily. Colour coding the floats does look like a 'make it tidy, make it gleam' exercise to me.)

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1 hour ago, perdu said:

Nice gratuitous insult for those guys who you may remember were flyingBOAT handlers Adey, especially when the wingtip lights on any RAF machine were also colour coded. Red Port Left - Green Starboard Right.

 

:)

 

My dad who was Sunderland crew must be spinning in his grave, those handling crews worked day and night to have the boats ready for more fighting and he was always proud of the guys at Pembroke Dock.

 

👍

 

(I do reckon the USN approach was mostly Bullsh though, they were handling these things daily. Colour coding the floats does look like a 'make it tidy, make it gleam' exercise to me.)

Sorry perdu, it was a bit of a tongue in cheek comment by myself. Those flying boat handlers did do a hard job in all weathers and conditions.

 

regards, adey

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On 3/16/2021 at 8:18 AM, Heather Kay said:

I have seen at least one colour photo where the floats had been painted red and green to show which fitted port and starboard. I don’t know how common that was, but it makes sense.

Thanks! Idid this way in case of mine Empire

50005020338_3147511c0b_b.jpg

 and Sunderland

49883333287_be7d5e165b_b.jpg

 

Regards :)

J-W

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5 hours ago, adey m said:

Sorry perdu, it was a bit of a tongue in cheek comment by myself. Those flying boat handlers did do a hard job in all weathers and conditions.

 

regards, adey

Adey dont fret mate, there really is a laughy smiley there too

 

I knew you were not a daft brute (like me purrups)

 

;)

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