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Special Hobby 1/72 Bf 109 E-4, or "How I spent My Covid Vacation"


109 fan

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I could write a book on the build to this point. Hopefully I can bring it in at 10,000 words or less. When Special Hobby announced their upcoming 109 E series a few months ago there was great rejoicing. At least in some quarters. The Tamiya kit has been king of the hill for years (in some people's minds), with worthy contenders from ICM and Airfix. The excitement grew with photos posted on Hyperscale and Facebook of the sprues. This stuff looked like 1/32 scale or at least 1/48. There were rib tapes on the flying surfaces. And stitches on the rib tapes! It has an interior that made Tamiya blush. It has an engine...and a good one to say nothing of separate flaps and slats. The wheels are so good that I will not make Roy Sutherland work overtime filling my orders for three entire Geschwaderen(s) (or whatever the plural is). It even has a starter crank!! So I thought, maybe I'll get me a couple of them. I ordered a few from my local pusher who has a direct line to someone in the Czech Republic. As a backup, I ordered a few more from Hannants. The blessed day finally arrived and I ripped open the box like a 6 year old on Christmas morning.

I'm in looooooove!! Just look at the sophistication of those moldings! It's riveted!! I can give my Rosie the Riveters a rest. Everything looked as good as the photos online. Better even! So let's dive right in. To be sure, my enthusiasm at this point was 11 on a scale of 1 to 10. So I put away this representation of the Luftwaffe aircraft graveyard at Neubiburg and started cutting plastic. 

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I trimmed off the cowling side panels and dry fitted them. Hmm a bit tight here. No problem; just a swipe with the sanding stick solved that. But why are they separate anyway? Oh, they had to be. Rivets can't be molded sideways. Next up, the interior. This kit has a four part representation of the firewall and ammo boxes. On top of this is a shelf that holds the ammo feeds and MGs. Here was my first self-induced mistake. I mistakenly thought everything should line up flat at the bottom. Nope. Note the circled areas. The firewall should meet the cockpit floor with the ammo assembly sitting on a small shelf.

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In the first pic you can see the firewall even with the ammo boxes. Also note the upper shelf floating above the boxes. This created all sorts of issues with geometry. The too-high shelf pushes out the fuselage making joining the halves a challenge. For some reason this multiplied the fit issues later on. I ended up sanding the open side (the interior had already been cemented to the left fuselage side) considerably. 

As you can see, the interior is very complete. I only added some white decal strips to the circuit breaker box. Although the rudder pedals look somewhat heavy, you will only see the front of them and they are beautifully perforated as is the oxygen regulator.


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The fit of most parts is so precise that a coat of paint seemingly throws things out of kilter. So anyway, I decided to start a second kit and correct the mistakes I made along the way with the first. This precise fit makes it necessary to carefully plan how you will apply glue when joining parts, particularly with the ailerons, flaps, upper cowl in front of the windscreen, and forward cowl - particularly the supercharger intake. The front (grill) of the intake is first attached to the forward cowl. There is a tab at its back of it that fits into a slot in the rear part, which has already been glued to the fuselage. It doesn't fit. (trouble in paradise?). Cut off the tab. You may also have to very carefully sand down the rear of the grill and adjust its angle to make a good fit. I did. 

Then you might wonder, why include an engine? I'll guarantee that some of my builds will have a closed cowling; most of them in fact. To have to build and fit this assembly on every model has already become tedious. As an aside, if you are closing the cowl, cut off the cowl guns and attach the from the inside to the troughs. Sticking them on their mounts and fishing them them through the cowl openings is unnecessary work. Anyway, the time came to attach the wings. This is the one really stupid engineering issue on the kit. The forward lower wing part includes a section of the oil cooler scoop. But it doesn't fall on any natural panel line. This reminds me of the AMG 109 B-D kit, where the lower wing has a crescent-like joint requiring a lot of filling gymnastics. Anyway, once assembled the joint has to be addressed in very tight quarters, with the wing and exhaust stacks getting in the way. I used some superglue and heavy grit narrow sanding sticks. This is far too much work for an acceptable result. It seems that this is SH's way of providing a "roof" for the air channel through the oil cooler. Tamiya made the lower cowl and roof two separate parts that fit perfectly. Fifty points to Tamiya! One filling/sanding/priming  session was enough for the first kit. The second required two. The wing attachment was interesting. The first kit slipped in like velvet. The second with the fuselage guts issue, did not. I sanded, bevelled and finally shoehorned it into place. I have a nagging sense that the dihedral on this kit is a bit shallow, but given the beautiful fit of the wing roots and attendant riveted strips and bumps, trying to adjust that by sanding either the wing root or fuselage sides would be impractical. 

Here's how things looked at this point.

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The upper cowl in just set in place for the photo. You should sand the front edge of it to get a bit more radius where it meets the lower fuselage. Untreated it is a bit wide. More of the good fit/evil fit thing.

This is enough for part one. Take a break for refreshments and I'll be right back.

Edited by 109 fan
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The next big fit issue is the canopy. It is too wide; all three pieces. This could have been a deal breaker. I was alerted by a Facebook friend about this so was a bit prepared, but it was worse than I expected. After looking closely at photos on E-4's I noticed there was a strip of sheet metal at the lower joint of the windscreen that overlapped the fuselage slightly. So maybe it could be sanded inward and the strip represented by a sliver of painted decal new the end. I used an aluminum sanding bar from UMM Models. This is basically a section of aluminum, bevelled to a wedge at the ends. Sandpaper is attached using double sided tape. The benefit is that it is unyielding and enables very flat sanding. Actually it worked and the windscreen was now acceptable. The rear canopy was more problematic. The solution was to cut it in two at the top along a panel. The width of the UMM (again) razor saw and some very gentle sanding were enough. The opening section should have been sanded as well. Maybe next time...


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Since this build was always intended as a test to see how the kit went together, I wanted to do as little extra as possible. This included my first attempt at Kits World 3D printed seat belts. They look good on the sheet and applied easily enough.


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But they lack the depth and definition of Eduard's pre-painted photo-etched items. 


One final caution. The kit's plastic is soft. VERY soft. Makes for easy cleanup, but the strength is not there. The assembly sequence will have you attaching the tailwheel before glueing the fuselage halves together. What could possibly go wrong? The first one broke off nearly immediately. On the second kit, it just wasn't there at one point. I found it days later on the floor while looking for some other wayward piece. Since the tailwheel strut is attached using four pins going into four holes, there will have to be some creative solution to this. I tried cutting off two of the pins on one side and fishing the strut into the fuselage. Didn't work. Maybe cutting off all of the pins, and installing some Albion Alloys tubing into fuselage will work. The strut would then be slid into the tube at the end of the build. That will have to wait for assembly #3, which is in the works, BTW.

Anyway, painting has begun. The white wingtips are on and masked and the RLM 65 blue has also been applied to the undersurfaces. I've never been happy with Gunze Sangyo's rendition of RLM 02 Gray. Looking through an older Model Art publication of the 109, I came across some custom Gunze mixes. They recommend adding 4 parts of RAF Dark Sea Gray to 6 parts of RLM 02. This makes a darker shade, which to my wife, who is not color blind, matches the Eagle Editions' Warnecke & Bohm, GMBH & Co. chart perfectly. Usually I cut my colors by 1/3 with white for scale effect. For this color, given its still pale nature, I did not.

Here's where things stand at the moment.


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Thanks for playing along to this point.

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The major camo painting is complete. I may paint the area under the slats; haven't decided yet. Some photos seem to indicate the darker color, in this case RLM 71. The further I progress with this kit the more I like it.  It's kind of a challenge, wrestling through the difficult areas. But it gives you a sense of accomplishment when you do. 

 

50865140966_64417fcb97_3k.jpg7B1215B3-BCEB-489C-85E7-2A874DA6743C_1_201_a by Barry Numerick, on Flickr

 

 

50864429508_49d2749741_k.jpg20DB1CFF-AF03-4154-9EDD-C6B383611316_1_201_a by Barry Numerick, on Flickr

 

 

50865140996_e647f54019_3k.jpg1C1A5228-CA01-4C3A-B76A-1FEA5B8B91D0_1_201_a by Barry Numerick, on Flickr

 

 

 

 

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Decalling is done on the Special Hobby 1/72 Bf 109 E-4. I have to say that these are not only the best kit decals I have even seen, they rival the best aftermarket decals on the market. They are exceptionally thin and react very well to Micro Set and Sol. The white on the national markings is extremely opaque. This may be the result of several layers of white ink being applied. The black sections settled down with just Micro Sol. On the white I dampened a Q-tip with Micro Sol and heavily rolled it over the decal. It then settled into panel lines beautifully. The decal sheet is very complete, with all stencils provided. The Tanzelwurm and number are not SH, but aftermarket. The RLM 71 area under the flaps is a painted decal strip. I found this to be easier than masking and spraying. On later 109s this area was painted as an extension of the upper surface camo. It appears that on earlier 109 E's, this area was darker. I will check for any residual silvering tomorrow and hit those sections with Sol, then it's on to a sealing gloss coat and weathering.

50879825531_38db2708bf_k.jpgB4C85C16-B5C9-4013-B9F6-C419F9C1F982_1_201_a by Barry Numerick, on Flickr


50879116753_131d3c3687_3k.jpgE35FCE20-B398-4669-B886-CAB7C847C223_1_201_a by Barry Numerick, on Flickr


50879825461_68de1a78f6_3k.jpgF1AD5DFC-127C-4CD0-8954-19B06F21D79D_1_201_a by Barry Numerick, on Flickr

 

Edited by 109 fan
dupe photo
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I've added the first round of oil washes and shading. This is the most transformative stage of the build in my opinion. This exposure burns in the white areas of the model. They do have a faint wash but it is not obvious here. This kit is really growing on me.


50886611502_81a79d8eae_3k.jpg60036776-2461-45C7-882C-525030B92539_1_201_a by Barry Numerick, on Flickr



50886504496_9493934597_3k.jpgA7C4402A-B87B-4DE2-9529-6D3EA1CF687F_1_201_a by Barry Numerick, on Flickr



50886611457_77659cdcc4_3k.jpg6DEC237C-C026-47EB-ADF5-6A1E5985B6E0_1_201_a by Barry Numerick, on Flickr



50886611427_6d51d51dfe_3k.jpgC70D8857-6C82-4AB1-B210-87C80D0C3DCB_1_201_a by Barry Numerick, on Flickr

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On 19/01/2021 at 03:23, 109 fan said:

### The wheels are so good that I will not make Roy Sutherland work overtime filling my orders for three entire Geschwaderen(s) (or whatever the plural is). ###
 

 

The plural of Geschwader is in this case naturally quite simple, it is: "Geschwader". You only get in "trouble" with the other grammatical cases.

 

("Oooh, that's a bingo! Is that the way you say it?")

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Thank you, gentlemen!

 

More progress on the 1/72 Special Hobby Bf 109 E-4. I have a new favorite flat coat: Gunze Sangyo GX-113 Super Clear III UV Cut Flat. A mouthful, to be sure. There is also a GX-114 which does not concern itself with the effect of UV rays, but this one was in stock when I placed my order. As good as GX-100 gloss is, this one is its equal on the flat side. It is a lacquer so I assume it will be durable, but I just applied it last night and haven't handled it very much. Thinning it about 3/1 with Mr. Color Leveling Thinner seems about right. It appears rather glossy in these photos, but that is largely the effect of high intensity LEDs placed just outside of the frame. I used the Special Hobby masks with this kit. I'm never 100% sold on these things, but they were at hand and wanted to give them a try. Almost every one of them had to be cut with a scalpel in one corner or another. But they did the job. Next up will be the landing gear. From photos I have seen online of completed builds, they appear to be too long. I've cut about .040" from the top of each. We'll see if that is enough.


50894168963_e5b959c27f_k.jpgBE21D9C0-C672-465B-8F76-094150C4E2E2_1_201_a by Barry Numerick, on Flickr

50895000167_e0134c72fd_3k.jpg8DEFD386-9A7B-4F9A-A6FF-16308971C3FE_1_201_a by Barry Numerick, on Flickr

50894168738_b64a868b49_3k.jpg9EAD65F2-AE8F-4078-9A41-1BDEBCF1A8EE_1_201_a by Barry Numerick, on Flickr

50894882311_5e1477e7c7_3k.jpg050D8952-EFE8-441E-95EE-4A5F09326226_1_201_a by Barry Numerick, on Flickr

Some of the remaining bits:

50894882101_6164ca43ce_3k.jpgE0142B86-8792-4569-92FB-597B538F7F45_1_201_a by Barry Numerick, on Flickr
 

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Just a tease tonight. More progress on the Special Hobby 1/72 Bf 109 E-4. She's on her gear now and the parts count is ticking down toward 1 (finished model). I had thought that the ridiculous main landing gear axles would create no end of problems. It is just a nub, not an axle and looked like there was no way this would support the wheel. I also tried something different. Usually I lightly attach the wheel to the axle using white glue or if I'm feeling feisty, 5 minute epoxy. These will allow quite a bit of adjusting time. For this one, I used Tamiya Extra Thin cement, applying it twice to the hole in the wheel. It was allowed to nearly dry before attaching it to the nub. It actually worked! The wheels are exquisite, showing the same level of detail as most of the rest of the kit. Since this was always intended to be a quick OOB build, I left some of the cruder aspects alone. The brake lines are like sewer pipes. I sanded them down in place which helped, but on the next one I'll remove and replace them with fine wire. I also shortened the landing gear by about .040". Each leg measured .6625" on my digital caliper when done.To me the shorted gear looks much better.

50916077743_8474f84681_3k.jpg9A7E1BA6-A7FA-47AC-81D5-6E23CF63D367_1_201_a by Barry Numerick, on Flickr


50916892432_fd14ffa89a_3k.jpgAF8CFC97-E2F6-4486-BAFE-D3A778B0A011_1_201_a by Barry Numerick, on Flickr


50916892462_947c1731a2_3k.jpgE953F39B-7CAF-42A9-941F-04203A438BF6_1_201_a by Barry Numerick, on Flickr


50916892492_2c10da8233_3k.jpg7BE5B734-23C3-473B-86AF-16D28DFD662A_1_201_a by Barry Numerick, on Flickr


50916077798_fec638baf0_3k.jpgDAE545F9-E932-48BB-83E5-91853C4BE161_1_201_a by Barry Numerick, on Flickr

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Thank you, Jan. Once you push through some of the kit's challenges it becomes a tiny wonder. I mean, rivets! Oil canning on the upper wing surface! Beautifully detailed cockpit and wheels! I have two more on the bench right now. One is just a collection of the "also ran" pieces as I built two of them side by side. The other I will take seriously and add a bit of detailing. Honestly, this kit does't need much.

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Thank you, Lewis. Yes, I have built 109s in Swiss, Hungarian, U.S., British, Japanese, French, Croatian, Spanish, Czeckoslovakian and even Iraqi what-if markings. Haven't done a Swiss E though. That is on the list, either one with a shark mouth or Swiss-built version, with different prop & spinner, plus bomb racks. Most of the others have been posted on these pages over the years. One thing about 109s, you never run out of schemes.

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DONE!!! It is such a rush to finish a model. I am really impressed with this kit. It is so close to perfect that the few little flaws that exist are just that much more annoying. A little more attention to these areas would have made this the best 1/72 kit that I have ever seen. I've outlined the plusses: separate slats and flaps, rivets, very nice cockpit and engine, oil canning on the skins on the wing, impeccable scribing and the best kit decals on the market; and the minuses: too wide canopy, too long main landing gear and a flimsy tail wheel strut that must be attached too early in the build. After you have built one, you'll know what to look for and make adjustments on the next one. I have two more of these in progress at the moment.  Also, you have to be very careful with the construction. A little too much glue here (ailerons) or too little there (flaps) can create headaches later on. Here's a side comment. It seems you cannot find this kit anywhere!! Special Hobby's website says there are out of them, Hannants doesn't have them. Nor do The Aviation Megastore, Sprue Brothers, Plaza Japan, HLJ and Amazon. I can't even find them on eBay. I have to laugh at the people who say "A new 109? Who needs that?" Clearly this is a license to print money. The model manufacturers are not in the business to cater to our esoteric whims; they are in it to make money. So bottom line... Special Hobby, crank these things out like hotcakes! Take my money!! Please!!! I'll now step off my soapbox; thank you. 

 

50927769277_8e8fa1cab3_k.jpg562F86D8-1CB8-433C-94F1-7356A7D55989_1_201_a by Barry Numerick, on Flickr

 

 

50927640796_3056fb075a_3k.jpg132E05B2-C86D-4363-BA97-C6EE87F8FE05_1_201_a by Barry Numerick, on Flickr

 

 

50927769262_73f235ef75_3k.jpg4DF50B6F-080D-44D0-B2BE-656509B9EF83_1_201_a by Barry Numerick, on Flickr

 

 

50927769247_70fe743187_3k.jpg301656D7-F785-4C03-BDB8-43AB0C721494_1_201_a by Barry Numerick, on Flickr

 

 

50926958093_6e942151d9_3k.jpg529A7525-DC59-46A3-8E6D-386403C1A013_1_201_a by Barry Numerick, on Flickr

 

 

50927640711_1b535d84c6_3k.jpg9031E450-61A5-4D24-8160-278FA0890966_1_201_a by Barry Numerick, on Flickr

 

 

50926957988_3cdc12f912_3k.jpgC84DCC37-3796-47C4-AEB2-63FC3688F1B3_1_201_a by Barry Numerick, on Flickr

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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That's looking grand.  Thanks for all the tips regarding the build - I have one of these in the pipeline (God only knows where as I have so many other models on the list, but it's there) and will find your thread very helpful in overcoming the kit's peccadilloes, I'm sure.

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..Superb Barry!

 

 Haven’t been able to find one anywhere - thought you’d bought them all up !

 

( FI, Geschwader doesn’t have a plural  in the nominative form, only in dative case endings)

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  • 2 years later...

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