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SS Nomadic, Titanic's Little Sister - 1/200 - 3D (Assembly)

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Subject exclusively concerning the assembly of this 71-metre ferry.


The subject of the design of the model is here:




I can start the assembly even if the upper deck that we could call the walkway bridge is not designed yet, which would not be long in coming.


The goal of the project is to moor the Nomadic to the Titanic, as it did in Cherbourg before it left for Ireland, in order to transship passengers. 






Part of the assembly of the accessories must be done before the gluing of the half shells, afterwards it will be impossible to come back to it.

The Nomadic will be held to the Titanic by two piano ropes inserted in each ship. Everything will be dismountable. The Nomadic or the Titanic can be exposed alone as needed. The piano ropes will have another function, that of driving the 12 v continuous from ship to ship for lighting the Nomadic, the more on one rope the less on the other. No unsightly wires therefore.


Once the piano strings are removed, the holes will be two of the many cooling water or sewage outlets on both ships.


So I cut two brass tubes to insert them into the hull, they will serve as guide bearings for the piano strings. 


I soldered well for the front tube a very thin transformer copper wire, this wire is very thin and very good conductor at least for the milliamps consumed by the two leds that will be used to simulate a main deck lighting. No need for more in my opinion, it must be low in intensity, hot leds (yellow) of course.


For the stern as I have a central bulkhead at this level I had to solder the wire after gluing it inside, then I soldered by putting the iron in the hull, a bit sporty...


The tubes:



A little coating remains to be applied to integrate the tube to the hull, we will see that fire after painting.




Both wires, the + at the front, the less at the back.




SE also poses the problem of glass in the end ports of the main deck. So I thought of Rhodoïd packing material to design them. It's port is not very accessible, it's impossible to glue directly a plate. The idea came to me to make a frame in Rhodoïd, which thanks to its flexibility will come to stick two of these faces on the ports giving the illusion of a glass.   


It will first have to paint at least the surrounds of the ports in white, because it would otherwise be impossible to paint with aerosol without putting some on the glass once the half-shells are glued. Once painted, I could mask the openings with either tape to paint the rest, in two steps.


For the ports more in the center, it's the same, but there I have access to glue the transparent...






The parts are starting to pile up, I printed sometimes 4 copies, to have spare parts in case of breakage and for several copies.


The last parts like the mast and its scales were well printed, the bar a little less because it is very thin, the compass is really beautiful.


The gratings are also well done, we can see the micro-holes that should not be filled with paint... 












Navigation light lantern











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Thanks for the link @Iceman 29

The job you are proceeding with is very well done! I watched your design phase and considered the size larger in my mind, but now I see what you have made, this will make it even the more impressive! Bonne chance!

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Tks all! 


Test print of the "Centiped" upper deck today, Vertical print because horizontally it deforms a little too much when drying.

I still have some typical tearing defects due to a lack of support on the side uprights, but this will be rectified at the next printing.


The deck is very well taken out, you can see the battens, the staircase batayolles, the handrails, everything is perfect as much as it can be. On the other hand, you have to handle this bridge with concentration so as not to break anything, there is not a lot of grip. Once painted and glued it will be better!  😓


Nothing is glued yet of course! 


To be continued...   










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I am convinced. I need to find drawings so I can build one in 1/600 scale.

This build is very impressing. Looking forward to see it finished.

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I printed another batch of parts today.


I'm thinking of reprinting the handrails vertically, they will be of better quality, although they're already not bad. You can see the difference with the printed ones, vertically.


Before being UV printed, the pieces are very flexible, especially the handrails. I usually take advantage of this to degrease them, then, for the handrails, I lay them flat on a support to put them back in line, then I UV print them to harden them definitively. 









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Re-printed the whole railing in vertical, no photo is better. 




Those on the right are printed vertically.



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What causes the little “hairs” on the horizontally printed rails? 

So much about 3D printing seems counterintuitive, to me at least, I would have thought for a thin, delicate part like the hand rails, printing them flat(?) would work better.

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It delaminates when it comes off the FEP film. You would have to put on additional supports to avoid this phenomenon. But this is not recommended on 0.3 mm railing tubes, at least perpendicularly. 

So it is better to position them vertically, the print is much longer, but the good result is there...


Printing flat would be worse. It would require many more supports, and the remains of these supports would be difficult to remove once removed from the tubes. 

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Today printing of ventilation ducts.




The stairs go in place perfectly, printed apart always for ease of paint application.




A nice stock of ventilation ducts! 




Assembly and painting of the fireplace, Sand Yellow Valejo 69.033, normally the shade corresponding to the paint of the White Star fireplace, then flat black Tamiya, and matte varnish X-86 Tamiya. Whistle painted with Enamel Revell No. 94.










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The upper deck is almost finished, I have to add a few more details, a ventilation duct, the lifeboat hoists, the order transmitters, the chimney shrouds.


I painted the deck trying to imitate teak, which is normally grey beige when it is outside. I did some forward tests on a test deck. There are three different colors to make it look good.


The teak when it's just laid is this color:


Then it turns after some time and bad weather to the characteristic color of this wood:






It was necessary to make the color of the smooth that is closest to the Humbrol N°63, but the latter is not red enough, so I added some Revel N°84 to arrive at the color Peru, which corresponds fairly well to the color we are looking for.





Here it is too red because of the lighting for the photo. To realize this, you have to look at the lower windsocks which are near the funnel.

















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I took the example of an old teak deck that had been mishandled like on a cargo ship, adding a little bit of brown by touch. Not easy to represent.






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looks superb. Having already got myself to the final stages of building Trumpeters 1/200 Titanic, I can safely confirm you are presently building a far easier and less stress of a model...

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About stress, i'm not sure.. 😓


I have changed my shoulder rifle about ports and portholes. I bought a bottle of crystal resin to make them. It's much better.


So I'm going to paint a first coat of the outside white before gluing them, then put them in place, gluing the windows, placing the leds of the lighting and gluing the half hulls, then paint the white finish again by masking the windows with Mascol. Not simple.












Installation of the guy wires of the chimney, and the hoists of the boats. Painted the awnings in another color that I like more.




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Little progress today.


White paint.

Installation of port "glazing".

Installation of internal lighting, two leds in series with a resistance of 2.2 kohms, test, it's good.

Gluing of the two half hulls.

Sanding and applying the plaster at the joint.

Painting of the stringers in "Peru" orange.











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