Ferdinand and Elefant.

[THEscaleSHOW]

23 hours ago, Stef N. said:

Cheers guys. This is an ideal kit if you need a break from the more complex ones. Straight out of the box it looks great but there's still room if you want to add some super detailing. Hopefully the Dragon one goes together as easy. 

 

Quick question. What is a good glue for tamiya  link and length tracks? Extra thin didn't work that well on the last lot I did. Cheers for any help. 

 

Hello Stef

 

First of all - very cool camouflage!

What AB needle size do you use?

 

About the glue problem: I tested the Tamiya extra thin with the original tracks and it works.

Maybe your glue is too old and doesn't have enough solvent?

For the test I used a little more than normal so I can be sure that the plastic melts properly.

 

I have glued where the 2 guiding teeth are close together.

 

 

With patience to success 😉

MD

[Stef N.]

Thanks MD. I'll give it another try as I think that I was overly cautious with the glue last time. I'll make sure it reaches every connecting point as well.

 

My airbrush is a 0.3 needle Iwata. It's not fine enough for very thin lines but good for this sort of camo scheme. And thinning the paint a lot cuts down on a lot of the over spray/ speckling that can occur.

 

 

[edjbartos]

Looks really good Stef, nice paint work..

 

Ed

[Stef N.]

Thanks Ed and thanks MD for the tip. One of those weeks where work slowed right down on this project. I think we all have those times where it can be a struggle to get motivated. Anyway had to use up some holiday so got the tracks done using more glue as was suggested and they have held up well. Tamiya have a scale drawing for the track shapes which is a tremendous help and their easy release wheels make attachment a breeze. Did an oil filter using umbers and a pinwash tomorrow and while that dries I will start making up the Dragon kit.

 

 

Quite a minimal set of sprues for a Dragon which isn't a bad thing. Individual tracks which is a bit of a chore. But for a twenty year old kit the details are very good, a little fuzzier than the Tamiya but not that far away. Should go together very easily.

[Retired Bob]

14 minutes ago, Stef N. said:

Quite a minimal set of sprues for a Dragon which isn't a bad thing. Individual tracks which is a bit of a chore. But for a twenty year old kit the details are very good, a little fuzzier than the Tamiya but not that far away. Should go together very easily.

Hi Stef, firstly track glue, I found Mr Color thin glue worked well with individual track links, I got the black stuff, it shows where the glue runs with capillary action, smells awful though.  I thought I should give you a heads up, years ago I built the original Dragon Elephant kit, that had the links on sprues as well, when I glued them together I found it difficult to keep them in a strait line, I gave up in the end and got some Hobby Boss ones.  Yours is looking good, I even got my new one out of the stash (this one has magic tracks) and had a look, that Atak zimm is just crying out to be used. 

[Stef N.]

Thanks Bob, I'll keep an eye out for that glue and keep an eye out for my tracks going skewith. It doesn't look like the Dragon wheels are removable so I may have to paint the bottom half seperately and get the tracks in place before attaching the main structure. We shall see.

[Jasper dog]

1 hour ago, Stef N. said:

Thanks Bob, I'll keep an eye out for that glue and keep an eye out for my tracks going skewith. It doesn't look like the Dragon wheels are removable so I may have to paint the bottom half seperately and get the tracks in place before attaching the main structure. We shall see.

Just don't do what I did first time I came across this type of track (Dragon Jagdtiger)..

Painted and initial weathering done whilst all indi links are still on the sprues.....

How I laughed as I was trying to get the links to fit together.

[Stef N.]

Definitely going to follow Tamiya's drawings and build up in larger lengths and sections and then paint. It should make life easier, so long as the two kit's measurements aren't way off.

[Stef N.]

I am also looking at this kit, the father of them all, to add to the collection. It is butt ugly but it shows the progression of the vehicle. Don't know much about Amusing Hobby but the reviews seem positive.

 

[Retired Bob]

3 hours ago, Stef N. said:

Definitely going to follow Tamiya's drawings and build up in larger lengths and sections and then paint. It should make life easier, so long as the two kit's measurements aren't way off.

Good luck, I have tried similar methods, assembling individual links to make the bottom run from sprocket to idler, top run, again from sprocket to idler, letting the glue dry, remove them, paint and weather them.  Then when you go to assemble them using some individual links on the sprocket, they do not fit!  (must be one of those laws of physics) 

[Stef N.]

28 minutes ago, Retired Bob said:

Good luck, I have tried similar methods, assembling individual links to make the bottom run from sprocket to idler, top run, again from sprocket to idler, letting the glue dry, remove them, paint and weather them.  Then when you go to assemble them using some individual links on the sprocket, they do not fit!  (must be one of those laws of physics) 

You are bringing back bad memories of a Panther G I failed at. 😳

[Retired Bob]

13 minutes ago, Stef N. said:

You are bringing back bad memories of a Panther G I failed at. 😳

A method I had seen before but I eventually tried was to assemble most of the running  gear and tracks all glued up, then slide them off the axles and paint as separate items, here with black Mr Surfacer 1500.  It worked better than I expected but the best thing is not having the stress of attaching the tracks at the end of the build, I've just got tools and tow cables now to worry about. 

 

[Stef N.]

On 23/01/2021 at 12:40, Retired Bob said:

Good luck, I have tried similar methods, assembling individual links to make the bottom run from sprocket to idler, top run, again from sprocket to idler, letting the glue dry, remove them, paint and weather them.  Then when you go to assemble them using some individual links on the sprocket, they do not fit!  (must be one of those laws of physics) 

You weren't far off sadly. The link and length tracks need to be fitted to the wheels as you go. After a while of struggle, bits breaking off and quite a few swear words the tracks went into the bin. 🤬 For the indi tracks I will follow your last bit of advice.

Anyway a shopping trip to Historex and see what they have.

[Stef N.]

Quick update. You learn things every build with this hobby. The large proportion are good things but on occasion a small hiccup will occur. To clear up some nearly empty bottles from the shelf I used Tamiya laquer gloss to seal everything in. Wonderful stuff which leaves a strong resilient finish. Then the usual decalling, weathering, washing, pin washing etc and then I used my usual Vallejo satin to seal this lot in. Unfortunately although it looks ok, it hasn't adhered to the other coat very strongly and using some wet products makes it come off a bit easy. Not a massive problem and I can work around it but something not to do again.

 

 

 

Got a few goodies. Mostly for the Ferdinand now but the tracks are for this one. I haven't tried Masterclub ones before so I will see how they go. The MJ clamp set looks good and I've heard some good things about them and I struggle with PE sets so I will give these a go too.

 

 

Good luck all. Apologies for photos. Still struggling with the new camera. Although I have got a great tutorial which should help.

Edited January 29, 2021 by Stef N.

[Andy J]

1 minute ago, Stef N. said:

Quick update. You learn things every build with this hobby. The large proportion are good things but on occasion a small hiccup will occur. To clear up some nearly empty bottles from the shelf I used Tamiya laquer gloss to seal everything in. Wonderful stuff which leaves a strong resilient finish. Then the usual decalling, weathering, washing, pin washing etc and then I used my usual Vallejo satin to seal this lot in. Unfortunately although it looks ok, it hasn't adhered to the other coat very strongly and using some wet products makes it come off a bit easy. Not a massive problem and I can work around it but something not to do again.

 

 

 

Got a few goodies. Mostly for the Ferdinand now but the tracks are for this one. I haven't tried Masterclub ones before so I will see how they go. The MJ clamp set looks good and I've heard some good things about them and I struggle with PE sets so I will give these a go too.

 

 

Good luck all.

Oh dear I've just seen your delivery and I have withdrawal symptoms.....I really do need some paint for my figure painting adventure so time to start searching the Internet methinks 🙂👍

[Stef N.]

Figure painting is something I really need to learn too but it is something on the back burner for now.👍

[Andy J]

7 minutes ago, Stef N. said:

Figure painting is something I really need to learn too but it is something on the back burner for now.👍

Me too but it's an excuse for another paint stand 🙂👍

[Stef N.]

Now that is what I could do with. I've had my eyes on those EBMA ones for ages.

[Andy J]

7 minutes ago, Stef N. said:

Now that is what I could do with. I've had my eyes on those EBMA ones for ages.

I use the vallejo one's Stef fit together nicely and not too expensive 🙂👍

 

[Stef N.]

I use mostly Tamiya,so need the larger ones,but with any ever increasing stash of those smaller bottles they will come in handy.👍

[Jasper dog]

Hi Stef, nice little selection of goodies. I'll be interested in both the Masterclub tracks, as Fruils are going to be harder to come by and the MJ clamps.

 

Some of the Mig clamps arrived a few days ago, talk about a large box for a tiny package! 

 

Atb

Darryl 

[Stef N.]

The MJ is similar. A large matchbox sized box contained one thin run of resin clamps. But having just counted them there are over 200 individual pieces so they should last me for years.

The Masterclub so far seem a good option if you struggle to get Fruils. Nicely detailed with a small clean up needed, but with resin pins instead of wire, so the carpet monster can get fed quite easily.

I made one of my regular schoolboy errors though. I made up a run of 50 but they felt a bit weird. Too smooth. And then I realised I had left out the alternate ones with the guide horn so have to start again. It would pay for me to concentrate sometimes. Ho hum. 😀

 

 

[Jasper dog]

45 minutes ago, Stef N. said:

The MJ is similar. A large matchbox sized box contained one thin run of resin clamps. But having just counted them there are over 200 individual pieces so they should last me for years.

The Masterclub so far seem a good option if you struggle to get Fruils. Nicely detailed with a small clean up needed, but with resin pins instead of wire, so the carpet monster can get fed quite easily.

I made one of my regular schoolboy errors though. I made up a run of 50 but they felt a bit weird. Too smooth. And then I realised I had left out the alternate ones with the guide horn so have to start again. It would pay for me to concentrate sometimes. Ho hum. 😀

 

 

 

Cheers Stef, masterclub could be a potential then, I've quite a few sets of Fruils in stock but they won't cover everything.

Funny about the alternate tracks, my dad likes making these 1/16 scale kits and he did exactly the same on a Tiger (p).

 

Think the Mig clamps are a bit pricey for what you get, good quality mind!

 

Atb

Darryl 

[Stef N.]

37 minutes ago, Jasper dog said:

Cheers Stef, masterclub could be a potential then, I've quite a few sets of Fruils in stock but they won't cover everything.

Funny about the alternate tracks, my dad likes making these 1/16 scale kits and he did exactly the same on a Tiger (p).

 

Think the Mig clamps are a bit pricey for what you get, good quality mind!

 

Atb

Darryl 

They look nice and you don't have to bend tiny bits of brass which would be worth spending that bit extra in my book.👍

[Ernst]

21 hours ago, Stef N. said:

Then the usual decalling, weathering, washing, pin washing etc and then I used my usual Vallejo satin to seal this lot in. Unfortunately although it looks ok, it hasn't adhered to the other coat very strongly and using some wet products makes it come off a bit easy.

 

Similar problems here, humbrol odorless thinner (the mild stuff) peels the vallejo varnish straight off when using oils and washes. Even enamel varnishes are more resilient to it. In my experience tamiya is the best varnish. When stirred and shaken well the satin and matte ones don't leave a white residue.

 

Great progress you've made, it's looking beter and beter👍. I've tried Bob's track approach on a zsu and it worked very well, it's a great method as long as there are no polycaps involved.

Cheers,

Ernst